timing

[v-man1]

hello,99 standard with interstate icm.Thinking of adding 4 degree trigger wheel with this.Would appreciate any opinions,thoughts on this combo.Also,planning to go darkside in the spring.Am thinking about the General altimax .Any feedback on this tire?Thanks

[Jess from VA]

I have two '99 interstates (with the interstate ignitions), one came with the 4 degree wheel.  I have not done any scientific study or exacting mileage comparison, but I can discern no real difference in how the bikes run.  If anything, the stock IS is faster.

However, the IS with the 4 degree wheel must have premium fuel (not mid grade) to stop knocking (unless I ride like grandma)....so I have a stock OE timing wheel to put back in when I change my timing belts. All the 4 degree wheel does for me is cost added price of gas.

Also beware, there are good and badly made timing wheels.

I think the Gen ALtimax HP is the #2 choice among Valk darksiders (behind the Goodyear ATT), and is a good choice.  I think it doesn't last as long as the GATT, mine is past 27,500 and perhaps 1/3 tread left.

[Ricky-D]

I can see the time I"ll be installing the stock timing wheel back.

With non-ethanol gas being harder to find and now the possible increase to 15% ethanol enrichment I expect that this reversion back to stock timing will be necessary.

I think it was CA that also pointed out that larger idle jets should probably be in the mix if you are forced to run on 15% enriched gasoline. I tend to agree with this also.

Last fill up with premium non-ethanol was $3.60 a gallon.

***

[Fatboyman05]

the IS with the 4 degree wheel must have premium fuel (not mid grade) to stop knocking (unless I ride like grandma)....[/quote]


My new to me IS supposedly has a 6 degree trigger wheel. I dont know what grade of gas was in it and when I filled up for the first time I put in mid grade based on what I knew at the time...
Can you describe the Knocking: is it all the time or only under a load?
if only when moving does it only start during hard acceleration?

Not trying to jack a thread, but this really does relate to the trigger wheel. I also have what is supposed to be a stock one in an envelope.... my only local source for non ethanol gas would be a local small marina...

[Hoser]

I can see the time I"ll be installing the stock timing wheel back.

With non-ethanol gas being harder to find and now the possible increase to 15% ethanol enrichment I expect that this reversion back to stock timing will be necessary.

I think it was CA that also pointed out that larger idle jets should probably be in the mix if you are forced to run on 15% enriched gasoline. I tend to agree with this also.

Last fill up with premium non-ethanol was $3.60 a gallon.

***

Actually, ethanol increases octane. E10 89 octane, non-ethanol regular 87 octane.   Hoser

[Jess from VA]

Can you describe the Knocking: is it all the time or only under a load?
if only when moving does it only start during hard acceleration?

Sounds like a valve floating, rattling knock.  Not at idle or cruise.  It occurs under acceleration;  the bigger the throttle twist the worse it is.  Just ordinary (middle-sized) acceleration away from a light will do it.  If I go very easy (like Grandma) (that's out!)  I can make it not knock.  Mid grade is a little better, but not good enough.   And I have had valves adjusted and carbs synced, and otherwise in good tune.

Remember, I can make no comment on a 6* wheel on a std, just the 4* on an IS.

I'm no mechanic, but I think adding a trigger wheel upgrade to an otherwise stock bike (with or without a K & N air filter), is a waste of time.  If you are going to add an aftermarket ignition, rejet, breath the exhaust, then maybe it is worth it. 

[Bobbo]

Can you describe the Knocking: is it all the time or only under a load?
if only when moving does it only start during hard acceleration?

Sounds like a valve floating, rattling knock.  Not at idle or cruise.  It occurs under acceleration;  the bigger the throttle twist the worse it is.  Just ordinary (middle-sized) acceleration away from a light will do it.  If I go very easy (like Grandma) (that's out!)  I can make it not knock.  Mid grade is a little better, but not good enough.   And I have had valves adjusted and carbs synced, and otherwise in good tune.

Remember, I can make no comment on a 6* wheel on a std, just the 4* on an IS.

I'm no mechanic, but I think adding a trigger wheel upgrade to an otherwise stock bike (with or without a K & N air filter), is a waste of time.  If you are going to add an aftermarket ignition, rejet, breath the exhaust, then maybe it is worth it. 

You are describing classic spark knock, from an overly advanced ignition timing.  Higher octane can reduce it, but the slight increase in low RPM power and efficiency usually isn't worth it.  In my Tourer, I run the I/S ICM and stock trigger wheel with 87 octane gas for the best overall performance.

[f6rider]

What is a good trigger wheel and a cheap one and how do you tell??

I put a 6 degree in my 95 GL1500 Wing, and my 99 Standard I used to have, I thought they were both snappyer.. Throttle response was better IMHO.

In my 2000 tourer I currently own I put in IS carb springs, and a Is ICM. I have a 6 degree wheel but think it maybe to much.

I would love to talk with someone about how difficult it is to rejet the carbs. And if it would help with my current set up. I have Mark Ts.

[RP#62]

What is a good trigger wheel and a cheap one and how do you tell??

I put a 6 degree in my 95 GL1500 Wing, and my 99 Standard I used to have, I thought they were both snappyer.. Throttle response was better IMHO.

In my 2000 tourer I currently own I put in IS carb springs, and a Is ICM. I have a 6 degree wheel but think it maybe to much.

I would love to talk with someone about how difficult it is to rejet the carbs. And if it would help with my current set up. I have Mark Ts.

A good trigger wheel has squared-off teeth the same length as the OEM.  A not as good trigger wheel has rounded teeth not as long as the original.  Both work good once the engine is started.  Some with the rounded teeth cause a larger air gap between the end of the teeth and the pulse generators and consequently may not start as easy as the original. One pulse generator determines RPM.  The other determines crank position.  The ICM has to see a valid signal on both before it will fire the plugs.  A bigger air gap means a lower voltage output from the pulse generators which then makes cranking speed more critical to get valid signals. 
-RP
-RP