Spline Lube: Went Wrong ** SOLVED**

[BP]

Everything was going good, Splines were in good condition still looking over never hurts, hence re-lubed splines and was able to complete the job when this happened.

While packing up stripped right strut lower nut (Circled in Red).... . Harbor Freight $25 Torque wrench did the job, was trying to torque to 23NM.



I don't know how i can fix it, Can anyone help, What are my options?

Thanks in advance

[olddog1946]

Sounds like something I'd do..you've got at least three options..
1, use a longer bolt with a sleeve and a nut on the back side (if you have clearance), might even be able to counter sink the nut on the back side for additional clearance.
2. drill out the stripped threads and put in a helicol and clean the threads on the bolt to match the new helicol..
3. re-thread the for a larger bolt and install a new bolt with a sleeve to take up the slack between the bolt and the outer hole.

[Jeff K]

I'm assuming when you say you stripped the "nut" you mean you rounded off the head of the bolt?
If you stripped the threads install a helicoil, if you rounded the bolt, get a new one. I have a few laying around.
I guess I'm not a fanatic about torquing every single bolt. I just know when a bolt is tight. I only bother putting a torque wrench on torque critical bolts.

[Hoser]

I don't own a torque wrench, never broke a bolt off yet, nothing has ever fallen off.  I use an impact driver  to remove tough bolts.   hoser

[Patrick]

Yep to what Jeff and OldDog said[#2 and #3].. See what happens when go to using these new-fangled thingys like torque wrenches. ... The wrench may be OK, did you 'exercise' it before using it ??  That means hooking it up to another bolt at a low settings and working it to make sure it 'breaks' about where it should.. If you don't back-off a torque wrench or use it for a while, when you try to use it, they tend to get 'sticky' and won't 'break' when they should..

[Chrisj CMA]

I agree with what has been said about torque wrenches.  I have only ever stripped or broken a bolt when using a torque wrench.  Some nuts/bolts really need torqued and most really dont.  I have R/R'd many rear wheels for valk friends and I can tell you the most frustrating thing (and Honda Dealers are the culpret) is that right lower shock bolt and the rear caliper plate holding pin.  Both of these are essentially "pins"  What I mean is they dont hold more the tighter you make them.  They need to be a bit tighter than a spark plug is all, just tight enough that they dont come loose on their own (which isint that tight at all)  Please also put antiseize on both of these as they can both get stuck if you dont.  Even though the plate pin is steel into steel, when it sticks you need an elephant and three men to break it loose.  the shock bolt is steel into aluminum and should have antisieze for that reason

[Hook#3287]

I've had good luck with a "Backout" set to get stripped screws out, but I haven't tried it on white metal yet.

[hubcapsc]

I just want to mention this in case it is relevant... when you're tightening either of the lower
shock bolts, if you don't have the bike jacked up to the "neutral point" (no tension or compression on the shocks),
you're risking stripping the bolt...

-Mike

[9Ball]

Mike

that's a great tip.....good job...

[aslondon]

Did the same thing in the past.  If you are careful, you can drill a hole in the remaining piece and use an ezout to get it out.  Typically if you break that bolt, it will snap at the top of the threads.  The bolt is not very hard and should respond to drilling.  Remember if you drill it out use a centerpunch to put a ding in the bolt for the drillbit to grab on to so it doesn't wander in the aluminum!

Al
Vrcc 4321

[fudgie]

Anti-seize.    Every bolt/screw I remove gets anti-seize on the threads. Helps for roadside repairs and the next spring when I tear it apart.

[R J]

The lad never did respond as to whether he tore up the threads, or rounded off the nut.

Which is it son?

That would help us tell ya how it fix it.

[BP]

I was screwing it on, and belive it’s the threads. But once I get back to home I will double check confirm. It was late last night and i was angry on me so i left it there without breaking something else in anger or sadness. 

Looking at options mentioned mention by “olddog1946”I think its not end of world for this problem.

Let me get back to you all tonight.

[Chrisj CMA]

If the threads are broken off inside the threaded pard and you get the rest out, that threaded part should unscrew pretty ease once the shock is completely out of the way......you can also get at it from the back side....that way turning to the right would actually be loosening it

[BP]

This is what i got. I believe its smaller problem then i expected. Took some time to pull it out but all worth at the end.

I believe this is available easily, right?

[GOOSE]

bp.....bingo...problem solved.  you just need to order a new bolt from honda direct line (or your dealer) honda # 90159-MG9-000 (honda direct line price:  $10.65).  this time don't go crazy with the torque wrench.  by the way;  when you put lubricant (like anti-seize) on threds, and you use a torque wrench, you need to reduce the torque by 10%.  good luck.

[olddog1946]

Always good to be a lucky puppy...be sure and use anti-seize when you put in the new one..

[Sodbuster]

bp.....bingo...problem solved.  you just need to order a new bolt from honda direct line (or your dealer) honda # 90159-MG9-000 (honda direct line price:  $10.65).  this time don't go crazy with the torque wrench.  by the way;  when you put lubricant (like anti-seize) on threds, and you use a torque wrench, you need to reduce the torque by 10%.  good luck.

When a light oil coating is applied the suggested torque should be reduced by eight to ten percent from the dry torque setting. When using a paste type compound of graphite, copper, aluminum, etc the suggested torque should be reduced by thirty percent from the dry torque setting.

[art]

I did the same thing to my valk .I just drilled a hole thru  the screw all the way thru an used a allen head screw an the drilled out shoulder as a bushing an 50000 miles later i am still using it.The allen bolt is also stronger so just don't overtighten it or you could strip out the internal threads

[Rocketman]

This is what i got. I believe its smaller problem then i expected. Took some time to pull it out but all worth at the end.

OK, now I'm curious.  How did you get the snapped end out?  EZOut?  Backout?  The force?

[BP]

Thank you all; ordered nut from bikebandit.com had a coupon lying around.

I learned follow from all of you
1) Do not use toques wrench on small nuts, tight it slightly by hand
2) Use anti-seize on all nuts (especially when screwing to aluminum)
3) Never knew thing like "helicoil" existed, Great stuff

[BP]

This is what i got. I believe its smaller problem then i expected. Took some time to pull it out but all worth at the end.

OK, now I'm curious.  How did you get the snapped end out?  EZOut?  Backout?  The force?

I realized there was a small hole on the other side (wheel side), Inserted small screwdriver in that hole and was pushing screwdriver while with other hand un-screwing nut using wrench and it came without much trouble. Not sure why they have that hole in that area but it came handy.