Just bought a 2001 Valk Interstate...carb issues, looking for suggestions

[dustytrader]

I just bought a 2001 I/S with 9,000 miles from an older man that hasn't ridden it 200 miles in the past 2 years.  It wouldn't start when I frist went to look at it....after draining the gas from each carb and cleaning the plugs it started and runs.....but not very well in my opinion.  It has a full tank of gas that is probably 6 month old...maybe that is part of the issue.  I have read numerous posts about the carbs on here and hoping that I don't have to take it to the shop for a carb job.  I plan on emptying the old gas from the tank and running a bottle of Techron through it....does anyone think that may do the trick.  Looking for suggestions!  I have owned a Valk before...had a 97 for 4 years until I sold it last year so am familiar with working on most of it except the carbs.  Not sure I want to tackle the carb issue...had one mechanic quote me $600-700 for  all new Honda carb kits and labor....Honda shop quoted me $550 for labor and cleaning and syncing carbs. 

[GOOSE]

dustytrader......the thehron route would probably be the first, and best first try.  there is a good chance that it will take care of your problem, but....if it doesn't, then you will most likely will have to pull the carbs.  chances are good that the slow jets have gotten crapped-up.  stock slow jet are a # 35. if you have to pull the carbs, then replace the # 35's with # 38's.....these will do a much better job for you.  i'm sure that there will be a lot more good input from the rest of the people on this board, so just look, and listen,

[John U.]

If it will start and run I'd say you have a good chance the Techron will work. Of course it will run with the choke on even if the slow jets are badly clogged.
Getting the old gas drained from the tank and carb bowls is a good start. Don't completly refill the tank. Two or three gallons and the bottle of Techron won't be too strong. Go for a ride to get it warmed up good then let it sit for a while. Then ride some more. You don't need to ride fast, it's the slow jets that are clogged.
Replacing the slow jets is not the worst job. If you go with 38s you will need to readjust the pilot screws to 1 3/4 out from lightly seated. Give the techron some time to work first, you might get lucky.
Good luck

[ILcruiser]

+1 on John U and Goose's suggestions.

I had a similar situation, bought my Standard last fall with 7,900 miles on the clock, and it had barely been run in the previous couple of years.  After trying the Techron and Seafoam remedies, I pulled the carbs and replaced the slow jets with 38s, pilots 1 3/4 out.  Problem solved 

[gordonv]

Choke was mentioned, but not expanded on. Did you have the choke on properly?

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,25677.40.html

[dustytrader]

Thanks for the advise so far.  I am hoping the Techron will fix the problem.  It idles without the choke on, but misses here and there.  Upon acceleration it is actually pretty smooth until I even out the speed and I can feel it miss some.  I have looked at the slow jets on some of the posts and saved the URL's for future reference.  Is it really pretty easy to change out the slow jets??  I wish people would put pictures on here when they do a re-jet job to help understand what all is really involved.  I will keep ya'll informed of what happens.  It might be a few weeks before I get the time to mess with the bike much.  Also,  I am in the Denver, CO area and if anyone around here has a set up for syncing the carbs I would like to get with you one of these days and learn to do it myself.

Thanks!

If it will start and run I'd say you have a good chance the Techron will work. Of course it will run with the choke on even if the slow jets are badly clogged.
Getting the old gas drained from the tank and carb bowls is a good start. Don't completly refill the tank. Two or three gallons and the bottle of Techron won't be too strong. Go for a ride to get it warmed up good then let it sit for a while. Then ride some more. You don't need to ride fast, it's the slow jets that are clogged.
Replacing the slow jets is not the worst job. If you go with 38s you will need to readjust the pilot screws to 1 3/4 out from lightly seated. Give the techron some time to work first, you might get lucky.
Good luck

[ILcruiser]

Since your issues seem to be mostly at low revs, it's most likely the slow jets.

When I replaced mine, I followed the instructions in the shop manual, but there's also a nice write-up by Lamont here:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/jetting.htm

I ended up pulling the carb bank, but like his idea of tying up a side at a time with bungee cords.  All you really need to be able to do is to access and remove the bowls; the jets are right there, and it's a simple matter to just unscrew the old and screw in the new ones.  Even after Techron and Seafoam, I had two jets that were partially clogged with crud.  That was apparently all it took to make her idle slightly rough and miss occasionally at low revs, just as you describe.

[GOOSE]

dustytrader......see there....i told you this board would come up with a solution.....PROBLEM SOLVED.

[John U.]

If the Techron won't do the job the slow jets really should be replaced. Trying to get them unclogged with piano wire will most likely result in ruining the jet anyway.
I've used the tie up the carb bank one side at a time method. It works but it's hard on the back and cramped to work on. Having the bike on a lift helps.
The float bowls are held on by screws which appear to be phillips but are actually JIS(Japanese Industrial Standard). They are soft and strip easily. Once you get them out they should be replace with stainless hex head screws.
This outfit has the JIS screwdrivers. They used to have jus the 1/4"drive bits but I can't seem to find them. You might get at them with a stubby, I used a right angel ratchet driver.
http://www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=138
If you use a philllips be careful to find one that fits as close as possible. Sometimes grinding down the tip helps. If the heads get stripped out they can be a PIA to get out.

[ILcruiser]

Yeah, forgot about those bowl screws.  Mine came out fine with a phillips ratchet, but I replaced them anyway with some from Redeye.  Not a bad time to replace intake o-rings either.

http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/414983/carb-intake-seal-kits

[dustytrader]

With all that....I feel I can do all of this myself instead of paying someone.  I had to take the gas tank off my 97 to change the air filter so that wasn't too bad of a job. 

Just for clarification if I tear into it....I need Slow jets 38, Intake O'Ring kit, new float bowl screws, JIS screwdriver, pilot tool?  Anything else I will need....I don't like starting a project unless I have what I need

[Pete]

Patience and attention to detail. It is not difficult, but it is tedious and time consuming.

Clean, clean, clean, jets, passages, surfaces.

Really good carb cleaner.

Yes the jets can be cleaned successfully? And the 35's have always worked just fine for me on a 97 Std and 99 IS when clean and adjusted properly.

But your bike your money, your option. Have fun.

[ILcruiser]

One other thing you might want to do.  While you have the carbs out, you might want to consider pulling the pilot screws and cutting slots in the heads, either with a Dremel or a fine-bladed hacksaw.  Then you can use a small stubby screwdriver to adjust them when the carbs in place.  IMHO, that's easier than using any of the d-tools.  If you do take the pilot screws all the way out, be sure to account for the spring, o-ring and washer that will come out with each one.

[Ricky-D]

Here's a suggestion!

If the first bottle of Techron doesn't seem to do the job, try another product, and another, etc.

It would not be a good suggestion to change to larger jets at the altitude you reside at!

Exhaust all other avenues before considering making any changes or adjustments.

You have to assume that the bike ran good previously, and even though there are those that suggest; making changes should be the first course of action; the prudent thing to do, is try all and every possible corrective action prior to making any physical changes.

***

[Lonerbtw]

Did he not say that acceleration was pretty smooth? Would that not rule out slow jets and lean more tward a vacume leak? That is what I would check before pulling them dam carbs.
  Lonerbtw

[dustytrader]

I just drained all the fuel (and put it in my Jeep) and put some about 4 gallon 91 octane along with a bottle of Techron.  Took it for a spin and it seems to run pretty good for a bit then like crap for a bit.  It idles rough and misses a little when reving to about 3000....but once on the road it seems to run pretty smooth on acceleration until I even out my speed.  I'm gonna see how things go and go from there.  One problem is the old guy I bought it from had some "mechanic" come to his house and get it started.  I don't know if he had a clue what he was doing....when I picked it up Saturday morning the owner sadi the mechanic did all the final adjustments and put it back together.  What would he have adjusted and how can I check to see if he did it right??  He didn't take the tank off or carbs out..just the front plastic to get to the carbs.  What is the set screw at the bottom of the carb...is that just the drain plug.

[ILcruiser]

The recessed screw at the bottom of each carb, facing downward and directly behind the intake is the pilot (air/fuel) screw.  You can identify it easily, because it is d-shaped, but it's tough to see without using a dental mirror.  The carb drain screw is the slotted one that's at the bottom of the carb, facing you, with a black tube attached to its housing. 

   

[dustytrader]

Good deal.  I noticed mine has vacuum hoses hooked to each one except the front and rear one on the right side...those appear to be plugged or missing the hose.  Does that sound right?

Thanks for all your help.  I read a post too that stated if I get a de-smog kit it makes putting the air box on a hell of alot easier...is that a fact?

The recessed screw at the bottom of each carb, facing downward and directly behind the intake is the pilot (air/fuel) screw.  You can identify it easily, because it is d-shaped, but it's tough to see without using a dental mirror.  The carb drain screw is the slotted one that's at the bottom of the carb, facing you, with a black tube attached to its housing. 

   

[ILcruiser]

You'll have vacuum plugs on nos. 1 and 5 (front and rear, right side), but also on 2 (front left side).

LOL, the airbox is a bitch, with or without pair valve.  It's the fact that the air intake tubes have to be crammed between the frame rails to get the sucker in or out.  Picture trying to get your octopus into a shoebox 

[dustytrader]

As long as it is do-able I guess I will attempt it...not real sure about it though....lol

You'll have vacuum plugs on nos. 1 and 5 (front and rear, right side), but also on 2 (front left side).

LOL, the airbox is a bitch, with or without pair valve.  It's the fact that the air intake tubes have to be crammed between the frame rails to get the sucker in or out.  Picture trying to get your octopus into a shoebox 

[Hoser]

Last resort, it worked for me.  Find a slow moving back road and run about 25 mph in fifth gear, with the choke on fully for 5 minutes,reset the choke to open, clear it out, do it several times, with the techron mix, after the 3rd time I did it the slow jets cleared up.  just sayin....  Hoser 

[dustytrader]

Cool!  I will try anything...lol  Where is Auburn , KS?  I am from Kansas originally...raised in Coldwater last lived in Great Bend

Last resort, it worked for me.  Find a slow moving back road and run about 25 mph in fifth gear, with the choke on fully for 5 minutes,reset the choke to open, clear it out, do it several times, with the techron mix, after the 3rd time I did it the slow jets cleared up.  just sayin....  Hoser 

[Hoser]

Just outside Toepicker, er, I mean Topeka.     hoser

its hot in topeka	powered by Aeva

[dustytrader]

Took the bike for a ride today and got it good and warmed up...still sputtered at take offs and when the speed evened out, and had a rough idle.  Took it on a slow road and turned choke on full on drove about 20 mph in 5th gear for a while and did this about three times!  Holy crap...I think it worked!  The bike is running pretty good, still has a slight idle variation...but I'm thinking that might be solved when I get all the pilot screws adjusted tomorrow.  QUESTION???  I took some parts off my I/S to get to the carbs and used my new pilot screw tool I bought and set the back pilots (the only ones I could get to while the bike was still a bit hot).  The right side was set at about 2 turns out.  The left side appeared to be set at about 1/4 turn out is all!!  I wondered if maybe it was jambed and wouldn't go in anymore, but it would freely turn backwards.  Could this be the case...or could this really have been set that lean?  I set it to 2 screws out (since I live in Denver figured 2 turns would be plenty) I'm going to set all of them in the morning after the bike cools down and see if the rest are as jacked up.  I drained the bowls once again and all of the hose clamps on the carbs to intake were really loose (so loose I could spin the clamp) and then I took her for a spin.  She actually runs pretty smooth now...the idle and take off sputter is gone.  Could those hose clamps have caused any issue being that loose?  I was planning on tearing into it tomoorw and replacing the slow jets....but kinda thinking against it now?  I bought all the parts...but don't want to mess with it if all is well.  Any suggestions or comments??  THANKS

[John U.]

The clamp scres being loose is common and yes it will affect how the bike runs.
It seems unlikely that the left or right side pilot screws would be that tight. They're probably gummed up.
If you get ambitious you can remove the intake runners to get at the pilot scres and remove them to spry some carb cleaner in there and clean the needles. If you do thst, be careful not to loose any of those really small parts.
It's a good idea to replace the pilot O-rings, Redeye Tech has them.

Other than that I would consider myself blessed by the carburator god and enjoy life.

One more thing, if you remove the intake runners have thse replacement O-rings available to replace the old ones.
Redeye Tech again.

[Pete]

QUESTION???  I took some parts off my I/S to get to the carbs and used my new pilot screw tool I bought and set the back pilots (the only ones I could get to while the bike was still a bit hot).  The right side was set at about 2 turns out.  The left side appeared to be set at about 1/4 turn out is

Could be I ran into an IS that had 5 set at 1/2 turn and 1 at almost 2 turns. Also had a very dirty air cleaner. I suspected someone was trying to compensate for the dirty air cleaner and the wrong heat range plugs. The bike had come from Loveland CO. and it is possible that someone did the high altitude adjustment a second time without knowing or checking that it had been done before.

You never know on a used bike, Good luck.

[sugerbear]

Cool!  I will try anything...lol  Where is Auburn , KS?  I am from Kansas originally...raised in Coldwater last lived in Great Bend

Last resort, it worked for me.  Find a slow moving back road and run about 25 mph in fifth gear, with the choke on fully for 5 minutes,reset the choke to open, clear it out, do it several times, with the techron mix, after the 3rd time I did it the slow jets cleared up.  just sayin....  Hoser  

i lived in coldwater when i was very young 2nd /3rd grade. mom had a restaurent in bucklin
and 4th grade in dodge city.  along about 50 years ago(jeeze i'm gettin old)

[dustytrader]

Took the bike apart today and worked on it all fricken day....took the gas tank off and removed the air cleaner (it was kinda nasty)...cleaned it up for now since no Honda shops are open on a Monday... removed the intake runners and adjusted all pilots, replaced O Rings and put back together, installed a 3 plug accessory plug in under the handlerbar clamp (Walmart $10 and it fits the contour), installed a set of driving lights and switch, installed two strips of Red LED's to the underside of the gas tank (Autozone $19.99, they have 3M tape on the backside) installed Kuryaken highway pegs, installed rear speakers that I got from a member on here.  Still running pretty good....has a choke up here and there but soooo much better than it was.  I'm gonna ride it for a while before tearing into the slow jets.  I have tons of photos from today but can't figure out how to upload them.

[dustytrader]

Here are the phots:

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/001.JPG

http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/004.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/012.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/013.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/014.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/015.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/016.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/017.JPG
 
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_29648/018.JPG
 

[John U.]

Those LEDs are very cool 

[fordmano]

I really like the 3 port 12volt power plugs, that is a great idea.

Hope you don't mind I am gonna be a stealing that there idea.

[theredark]

Nice looking modifications!  What kind of driving lights did you put on?  Brad

[Skinhead]

Here are the phots:




 

 

 

 

 





 

fixed your pic links

[dustytrader]

The 3 way plug in is from WalMart ($10) and so are the driving lights ($18.99).  They look great and work very well...and if one breaks or something happens I'm not out much and can easily replace.  I had the same plug on my last Valkyrie as well...works great for cell phone, GPS, and MP3 player.  Just oredered a WOLO 519 air horn, also has one of those on my last one and it is fricking loud!!

[OverdueBill]

+1 on stealing your 3 plug idea.  And the light switch on the handlebars for another of my bikes.  I don't see that you added an accessory fuse block.  If not, might be a good idea.  Fairly easy to do.  So I hear, mine is still in the parts box to be installed.

[dustytrader]

+1 on stealing your 3 plug idea.  And the light switch on the handlebars for another of my bikes.  I don't see that you added an accessory fuse block.  If not, might be a good idea.  Fairly easy to do.  So I hear, mine is still in the parts box to be installed.

I just used In-Line fuses and kept them near the battery compartment