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Author Topic: left bank suddenly running rough  (Read 1539 times)
kens bumblebee
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Posts: 3


« on: March 23, 2011, 05:51:12 AM »

the bike has started running rough on the left bank. Tested all electronic components and they appear fine. Does anyone have details on the diode between the clutch switch and the neutral switch? The only markings on it are 6M.A 3.0

Any other suggestions on what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2011, 07:44:03 AM »

Use a flat blade screwdriver to drain an ounce or two out of each carburetor on that left side.

Carburetion is the only good choice for an explanation of your problem!

Seeing that it's the left side only, makes being on the side stand figure into the equation.

Sitting like that with the left side lower would tend to have anything (contaminants) in the gasoline want to migrate to those carburetors on the left (lower) side.

Some Techron may be a help also for this problem.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2011, 11:57:43 AM »

I seriously doubt the problem is electrical.. My thought too is fuel.. Draining the left side carburetors and looking at what comes out while adding a good fuel cleaner like Sea-foam or Techron in heavy doses is a good idea..
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2011, 12:13:44 PM »

are you just starting to be on reserve?
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2011, 05:20:53 PM »

My guess is intake/vacuum/intake O rings or carb clamps. Check/replace those things and do the bowl drains too. These bikes are sensative to intake leaks.
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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Posts: 4338


Brazil, IN


« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2011, 06:35:36 PM »

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,26188.0.html
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kens bumblebee
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« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2011, 06:51:33 PM »

We started with looking at the carbies but all looked fine which is why we looked at electrics. We have replaced bank angle sensor and ICM and everything else seems to have correct continuity, resistance or volts, except peak volts on -ve side appear to be down by 24v. With everything else testing fine it is hard to fathom what might be causing it.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2011, 09:53:29 AM »

We started with looking at the carbies but all looked fine which is why we looked at electrics. We have replaced bank angle sensor and ICM and everything else seems to have correct continuity, resistance or volts, except peak volts on -ve side appear to be down by 24v. With everything else testing fine it is hard to fathom what might be causing it.

Could you clarify and expand on this please?

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
kens bumblebee
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« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2011, 12:57:58 AM »

 resistance or volts, except peak volts on -ve side appear to be down by 24v.
Could you clarify and expand on this please?

We are working our way systematically through the workshop manual and getting correct resistance on components such as diodes, switches are working fine and voltages are the same as quoted in the manual.

Upon further investigation the peak volts that are reading low are just an average of the voltage because our test equipment is not sensitive enough to read the collapsing coil volts that give the -ve 100 volts required. So while our initial readings might have suggested a problem, it is more a measurement glitch rather than an electrical problem.

I hope this clears things a little for you.  Smiley
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2011, 08:40:44 AM »

Thanks for the reply!

I had discounted the problem being associated with the wiring/electronics due to the existence of three coils serving independent pairs of cylinders.

Could be a simple thing such as needing a synchronizing!

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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