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Author Topic: Starter gear failure / ENGINE PULL?????  (Read 8114 times)
hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« on: March 28, 2011, 08:01:27 AM »

 New member found cause of starter noise this weekend, not starter itself but "starter idler gear" inside bell housing has missing tooth. It looks like the engine has to come out to replace. Has anyone here had this issue or removed their engine assembly for any reason Embarrassed, and second question; Is it possible to just split the case and pull the bell housing / transmission case back about 3" to access the gear and not pull the entire engine out?
« Last Edit: March 28, 2011, 08:25:31 AM by hondahead » Logged
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14887


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2011, 08:04:44 AM »

I bet the bike was hydrolocked at one point recently.  Are you a new owner of the bike?  If so someone pulled a fast one.  Yes motor out case cracked and inspected, there may be case damage as well....search there are good pics of this repair on this site
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hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2011, 08:11:17 AM »

Ooh, that's not good news. Yeah, just bought it and got tricked. I'll research engine pull from here. Thanks for the fast info! Any members here brave enough to pull engine at home? I have lots of mechanical background but I wonder if I can split the powertrain from the bike on garage floor.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2011, 08:24:56 AM by hondahead » Logged
John Schmidt
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Posts: 15325


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2011, 08:29:09 AM »

Check closely....don't think it involves splitting the case, just pulling the rear cover off. Someone with personal experience will chime in here....hopefully.
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hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2011, 08:34:58 AM »

THANX!!!!   I sure hope you're right....
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16802


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2011, 08:53:49 AM »


Don't go through all that and not fix the thing that caused the hydrolock... probably your petcock.

Some change to a non-OEM  non-vacuum petcock that solves the problem if you remember to
turn it off every time you ride (search Pingel)...

Otherwise, you'll need to fix your OEM petcock (search "cover set") and read this
to learn how to do a simple test so you'll know it is really fixed...

Ostensibly this is a Valkyrie group, but mostly we just talk about petcocks, so it will be easy to find  Smiley

-Mike
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14887


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2011, 09:03:47 AM »

Check closely....don't think it involves splitting the case, just pulling the rear cover off. Someone with personal experience will chime in here....hopefully.

OK, sorry for harsh terminology.........I agree the rear cover (case as I was calling it) should be all thats needed.......
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2011, 10:03:48 AM »

If you look at just a couple of threads earlier you will find a lot more information on this specific topic.

Titled: Hydrolock repair costs by glassguy

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2011, 09:15:45 PM »

THANX, If anyone has time I need clarification, can you just pull the rear case cover off rather than pulling the engine? 

Again, what a great group and site you have here, invaluable information, glad to be part of it.

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lucky_1_chris
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Posts: 428


Arlington, TX


« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2011, 11:10:24 PM »

THANX, If anyone has time I need clarification, can you just pull the rear case cover off rather than pulling the engine? 

Again, what a great group and site you have here, invaluable information, glad to be part of it.



Looks like the motor has to be pulled...

Look closer at the pics in the other thread. That motor is no longer "in" the bike... It was moved just enough to get the rear case off, but "out" of the bike nonetheless. There are no downtubes on this bike. Notice the bottom frame rail in the pic? The engine is moved out to the right just a bit...unless the frame is bent... cooldude

Seems to me that it'd be easier to roll the engine away from the bike to have more room to work, but it looks like the mechanic figured its easier to do just enough to get the case off without the hassle of having to remove everything else involved in moving the engine to another location.

I may be wrong, but that's what I get from the pics. Good luck with your fix. The Honda service manuals are very detailed. With a little patience you'll have it going in no time.
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate

2016 Victory Cross Country Tour
ricoman
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Posts: 1888


Sarasota, FL


« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2011, 02:41:01 AM »

The local dealer did one of these two weeks ago on an IS.
No need to take out the engine, but not something you'll be done with before lunch. Lotsa work.
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take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2011, 03:26:28 PM »

Thanks Ricoman, I got a manual to borrow so it's time to try....  Looks like my weekend project is about to begin.
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Grumpy
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Posts: 3106


Tampa, Fl


« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2011, 12:58:26 PM »

I pulled the engine on mine a couple years ago, to repair the oil pump drive chain. Cover had come loose and was rubbing on it. Not really a bad job, I removed the carb bottom elbows and bungied the carbs up to save removing cables etc. Pulled radiator, disconnected wiring etc. Pulled it and repaired in one day, installed it back the next day.
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Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.
Tropic traveler
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Posts: 3117


Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2011, 05:48:45 PM »

I pulled the engine on mine a couple years ago, to repair the oil pump drive chain. Cover had come loose and was rubbing on it. Not really a bad job, I removed the carb bottom elbows and bungied the carbs up to save removing cables etc. Pulled radiator, disconnected wiring etc. Pulled it and repaired in one day, installed it back the next day.

If Grumpy says it, believe it!
The man does wear a "Superman" cape when it comes to Valk wrenching!  cooldude
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2011, 06:10:01 PM »

Grumpy, did you put the rear end up on jack stands while doing this to keep frame level and bike steady? The manual doesn't touch on this issue.
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Grumpy
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Posts: 3106


Tampa, Fl


« Reply #15 on: April 01, 2011, 08:06:38 PM »

Yep, lifted it and blocked up the front wheel, and set the rear on jack stands. Then used the motorcycle jack to raise and lower the engine. Also had straps from the ceiling to keep the front end from turning, just for safety. Not as bad as some would think.







The problem I had was the cover circled in the schematic, the bolts had come loose and the guard was rubbing on the oil pump chain drive.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2011, 08:23:20 PM by Grumpy » Logged



Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.
BIG--T
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Posts: 3002


1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate

The Twilight Zone


« Reply #16 on: April 01, 2011, 08:47:54 PM »

Yep, lifted it and blocked up the front wheel, and set the rear on jack stands. Then used the motorcycle jack to raise and lower the engine. Also had straps from the ceiling to keep the front end from turning, just for safety. Not as bad as some would think.







The problem I had was the cover circled in the schematic, the bolts had come loose and the guard was rubbing on the oil pump chain drive.

Grumpy, what was the mileage when it happened?
Thamks
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Grumpy
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Posts: 3106


Tampa, Fl


« Reply #17 on: April 01, 2011, 09:33:18 PM »

54,000 I think the bolts were not tightened properly when it was assembled. I put in new bolts and lock tight on them, been fine since. Must have been assembled on a Friday right before quitting time. I noticed it coming home from Inzane in Johnson city, sounded like a loose piece of tin in the motor. It  was tore down, to the point where the internal starter gears etc are. but did not require splitting the case.
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Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.
hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #18 on: April 04, 2011, 02:35:53 PM »

OKAY, Motor out and case half-way off, looks like I need a couple of special sockets. 4 hours into the job and not as bad as I thought.
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hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2011, 03:18:56 PM »

UPDATE!!! She's back on the road and running great.    Thanks to all for your comments and advice.  The most important advice I can give is to take A LOT of pictures and make a photo journal for reassembly help. Mine had been (unknowingly) de-smogged so the manual was useless for "re-plumbing" the emmissions system. Also. you really need the special tools to remove several nuts in rear case split part of the job. Pingel petcock in place and ready to enjoy, Thanks to all for the advice!!    
« Last Edit: April 27, 2011, 08:08:45 AM by hondahead » Logged
valkyriemc
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Posts: 392


2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2011, 03:55:02 PM »

Good for you, quite an initiation into the valkyrie world!
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Veteran USN '70-'76
hondahead
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Posts: 48

Austin, Texas


« Reply #21 on: April 26, 2011, 07:37:08 PM »

Yeah, you're not kidding, but now I know the bile inside-out, and really have a great machine. It runs like nothing else!!
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