Got hydrolocked yesterday

[Bullgoose]

Pulled the plugs this morning and blew gas out of 2 cylinders. Put the plugs back and the bike cranks fine... but won't start. Pulled several plugs to check for spark. No spark to any plugs. Checked the coils and I've got power to the coils, but not the plugs.
How would hydrolock affect the spark? More importantly, what can I do about this? ???

PS. I've got a new petcock on order. I was having trouble with the current one.

[sandy]

If your battery is slightly weak, it won't fire. The coils require 9.6 VDC to fire. When the starter is engaged, voltage drops. Try charging the battery or jump it from a non running car. A car's alternator is too strong for the bike's electric system. That's why NON RUNNING.

[Bullgoose]

Thnx Sandy. The battery is fully charged. Did that yesterday before I realized it was hydrod, I thought my battery was low, so I threw it on the trickle charger.

[X Ring]

Your battery could be fully charged but still not able to handle the load.  The way to tell is put a voltmeter across the battery terminals then push the start button.  If it won't carry a load the voltage will nose dive.

Marty

[Chrisj CMA]

common ocurrance with the Valkyrie.....you swear its not the battery because it was on the charger, yet its the batter......jump to your car if you are in doubt but chances are.  Oh and check the 55A fuse behind the right side cover.....if thats blown you have no alternator function.  That fuse is a metal lead looking thing in a small rectangular box that says "fuse" on the lid and there should be a spare fuse in the slot on the side of the lid

[Ricky-D]

Thnx Sandy. The battery is fully charged. Did that yesterday before I realized it was hydrod, I thought my battery was low, so I threw it on the trickle charger.

You're not alone!

The majority of owners almost never consider the battery (suspect) since the battery will still spin the motor.

A trickle charger is a poor substitute for a battery charger but regardless a voltmeter needs to be employed to determine the amount of charge in a battery.

A fully charged battery should show at least 12.7 volts to be considered fully charged. This figure is (or should be) from a battery that has sat for some time (a couple of hours) by itself. Anything else is fiction.

***

[BOZ]

Bullgoose... replacing your petcock after escaping from "hydrolock disaster" is a good 1st step. However, you likely have an issue with one or more carbs too. Could be a faulty float valve that allowed the gas to fill a cylinder. Better check your carb floats too. Your carbs could be due for a good cleanout and possible rebuild. Good luck. 

[Bullgoose]

Alright.
The battery measures 12.75v at rest. Hitting the start button, it drops to 10.30v.

Yeah, I'm aware the carbs could be an issue. I routinely run seafoam, chemtool through them every coupla months and I've got a fuel filter in line. Anything's possible.

Shouldn't I be getting some spark to at least 1 plug?

BTW, the engine cranks like a bandit. There's just no spark.

[Chrisj CMA]

Alright.
The battery measures 12.75v at rest. Hitting the start button, it drops to 10.30v.

Yeah, I'm aware the carbs could be an issue. I routinely run seafoam, chemtool through them every coupla months and I've got a fuel filter in line. Anything's possible.

Shouldn't I be getting some spark to at least 1 plug?

BTW, the engine cranks like a bandit. There's just no spark.

nope, you shouldnt get fire at all with that low while cranking

[Bullgoose]

Damn, that battery is only 3 months old.

[Chrisj CMA]

Damn, that battery is only 3 months old.

I had a battery die really fast once......I learned it was because I bought it, put the acid in, put it right in the bike and let the alternator charge it......had I put it on a slow 1-2A full charge it probably would have lasted 5 years

[Bullgoose]

UPDATE!
Jumped the bike from my truck battery. I had to let it crank for about 90secs. and then it started to pop a little. 30 more secs and it fired right up. Let it run for awhile. Put everything back together and it starts fine now with the mc battery.
Probably have to wait till morning to see if that's still the case.
I'm still getting a 2.5 drop in voltage for a split sec. when I hit the starter switch.
So, until I get my new petcock, I'll be bumping the starter to check for hydro every time I turn it on.
For at least right now, I am relieved. Couldn't detect any sounds that would indicate any damage from the hydro.

I could just drain the tank and wait for the petcock before gassing it up again, but then I'd miss the best riding weather here in central tx for the next 5 months. Just can't bring myself to do that. Course, if I blow the engine, I'll be sitting around for a looong time.

Thnx for all your help.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

You probably had some gas fouled plugs and they finally burned off. We had my son's busa down for repainting and after a months sitting the thing would barely run. We had to change the plugs (4) at $18 each before the thing ran right again. THe service guy at the dealer ship said it was from fuel leaking into the cylinder thru the injector and getting on the plugs. Common problem with busa.

[Bullgoose]

$18 bucks a piece?! Are they gold-plated?

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I forget what makes them so special but they have some type of plating and electrodes on them.

[MarkT]

Spend a saturday afternoon and $30 and install a Dan-marc electric fuel shutoff.  That will stop the fuel leaking down.  See http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Fuel_Shutoff/fuel_shutoff.html

[Bullgoose]

Tried getting in touch with the company by email, but got no response. There were 2 models discussed on the board here. One has a filter. One doesn't. I wanted the filtered one.
I don't trust a company that doesn't respond to questions. Are there any other vendors that sell a comparable unit?

[Bullgoose]

Checked it this morning and cyl#2 was hydrod again so it looks like I won't be riding again soon. 

[Kaiser]

I don't trust a company that doesn't respond to questions. Are there any other vendors that sell a comparable unit?

The "they don't respond" comment is a common complaint.  I picked up my AFC-152 (Dan Marc with filter) from here:

http://www.usgemini.com/LP-Filter-Lockoffs.html

[Bullgoose]

Hey Kaiser, thnx for that link. It lists the inflow/outflow as 1/4" yet our gas lines are 5/16. Isn't there a possibility of restricting gas flow (something I have experience with... don't ask)?

[Kaiser]

Gas restriction has not been a problem for me at all.  And it hasn't been a problem for my Valk, either. 

Many are running this valve and so far, I haven't heard any reports (nor experienced it myself) of gas restriction.

[Bullgoose]

Well, I'm having trouble ordering one from Gemini cuz my billing and mailing addresses are different and their online ordering can't seem to handle that. Tried calling them to place the order but couldn't talk to a live human being. Only voice mail. This is exactly what happened 6 months ago when I got all psyched about this but couldn't find a way to get one of these valves. ???

[Kaiser]

Just google "AFC-152" and you'll get a bunch of hits.  It's up to you to feel which one's are legit and worth your $$$.

[Blackduck]

You have a minimum of 3 faults.
A, the float needle is not sealing.
B, the vacuum diaphragm is not sealing
C, the manual valve is not sealing.
 For A it is most likely a carb removal and clean out. Have you ridden the bike between the lock ups?
B, Either a damaged diaphragm or the bleed orifice is blocked the vacuum cannot bleed off holding the diaphragm open
C, the manual valve is being held off it's seat by the selector stem. Remove the screw from the stem, take off the fuel line and check for flow. If none replace the selector and tighten the screw and see if the fuel starts to flow. You may have to place some vacuum on the diaphragm to do this.
It is easy enough to remove the cover on the petcock and check why the diaphragm is not sealing.
If it appears OK check the bleed orifice, it is very fine so you may need a single strand of electric wire to poke through it.
Cheers Steve

[Bullgoose]

I rebuilt the petcock about 7 months ago and it worked fine... until recently. I've dismanteled it 20 times in the last 3 weeks. The guts are aok and testing it off the bike with/without vacuum checks out ok. When I pull the tank, there is no leak at all, but, it seems, when mounted on the bike, it must be leaking cuz I'm getting hydrolock. There is a prob with the petcock when it's on the bike, but for the life of me, I don't understand what it is.
So, I've got an oem petcock ordered (3 weeks delivery), but today I ordered a pingle which should be here tomorrow. I'm gonna install it and see what happens. If that stops the hydrolock, I'm gonna enjoy riding the next 3 weeks and see if I get used to turning it off every time. If not, I'll wait till the oem gets here and see what happens. If that doesn't solve the prob, I'm selling the Valky and buying a Victory!

[Blackduck]

OK, when you had it off the bike did the fuel stop flowing fairly quickly after releasing the vacuum?
If the petcock is not in just the right position when you fit the selector to it it will force the manual valve off its seat. There is very little leeway when fitting the petcock to get it in the right position.
Cheers Steve

[GOOSE]

BULLGOOSE....don't keep screwing with it until you get the new pingle fuel valve in hand...when you get the pingle install it, but do not try and start the bike, or ride it until you solve some of the other issues/problems that you have...fix the stuck/sticking float issue because that will cause you problems too......get the battery issue resolved....and when you get these things fixed, then take out the plugs...clean or replace them/ regap (0.032) and reinstall them.  DO NOT TRY TO START YOUR ENGINE UNTIL YOU GET THESE THINGS DONE, or you will have a hydralock issue.  i don't think you have done it yet from reading your posts, but if you don't get it straight before you restart it...you will.  just installing a pingle, and not fixing the other will come back to haunt you.  besides there is no comparason between a valkyrie, and a victory.  good luck.

[valkyriemc]

You probably had some gas fouled plugs and they finally burned off. We had my son's busa down for repainting and after a months sitting the thing would barely run. We had to change the plugs (4) at $18 each before the thing ran right again. THe service guy at the dealer ship said it was from fuel leaking into the cylinder thru the injector and getting on the plugs. Common problem with busa.

My gen II (2008) takes Iridum plugs NGK CREIA -9 (or IV) usually 8-10 bucks a plug.

[Bullgoose]

Taking the Valky in to the mechanic tomorrow to have him clean the carbs, install the new pingle (cuz he'll have instant acces to it), check the battery, and maybe install a trigger wheel I've had for yrs. I will have to change the oil cuz it's definitely been polluted with gas (bummer).
I'll give an update when I get it back.
Later

[GOOSE]

bullgoose.....before you take the bike in to the dealer....is there anyone around or near you in cedar creek that can maybe help you with the repair of your bike?  i'm sure there is.  i would give a couple of days to see before i took it in, because first with a little help you can fix everything you have on your list to do, and second you will save a small fortune by getting help and doing it yourself.  heck you can also have instant access to all the parts needed by having the overnighted via ups, and will still have saved a small fortune.  think about that.  good luck.

[Bullgoose]

I'm not taking to a dealer. A  local dude whose very good and very reasobable.

[Rocketman]

In case you didn't take 'er in as planned:
Bumping the starter button will not save you.  If it is in a condition to break things, I don't believe that any human could get off the button fast enough to prevent it.  If you suspect you have a problem, and in your case, you KNOW you have a problem, put 'er in 5th, and roll 'er.  If you can push it through six compressions, you don't have any locked cylinders.  If you can't, then you do. 
I shut my fuel off every time, unless I forget.  If I forget, I notice it when I start (I have the habit of checking before starting).  If I forgot, I follow the above procedure for checking prior to punching the starter button.  I view that as the only way of being sure.

Mark

[Bullgoose]

Hey Rocketman. The Valky is at the mechanics now and I should know sometime tomorrow the scoop. I purchased a pingle which he'll install and that will solve that problem. When I stopped by today, he had the carb bank off and was cleaning them. Won't know about any serious damage till it's all back together and he fires it up. Yes, he's going to load test my battery. If there's a prob with that, I dropped off a known good one for him to install.
I'll post back the results.

[Bullgoose]

Well, ALRIGHTY THEN! Got the Valky back today and everything is aok. The carbs are clean and synched, the pingle is on, new rotalla t, and new avon cobra on the front. No damage from the hydrolock and she purrs like a tiger.
The battery that was in it was less than a year old (westco). My older battery was 5yrs old and sat out all winter in the freezing weather. Put it on the trickle charger overnight and it tested like new at wallyworld, so he put that one back in. Go figure.
Thnx for all the help and suggestions. It was a "valuable learning experience."