Audiovox cruise help

[designer]

Ok, hooked it up per the instructions. But it doesn't work. When it's on and I turn the engine off and then on it's still on. Hmmmm?  Also, doing the test with the ten pin with the Manuel, what do the mean by checking the yellow and green wire open then closed? The open is good but I'm not sure what circuit should be closed to test. Anyone in Ohio that has experience. I have no vacuum can, when I hit the button to set it acts like it wants to set, but doesn't. Should I hook the third vacuum line up to the servo?

I've read the searches but no real help.

[John Schmidt]

Do you possibly have any LED's in the brake/taillight? Won't work without a relay in the purple wire circuit if you do.

[alph]

if i remember correctly, there are three power wires from the whole thing.  one from the head unit, and two from the servo, one says to wire one to a constant "+".  well, i didn't do that.  i wired all three to a switched +12vdc.  it is very important that the brake wire be through a light "bulb" and that there are no LED's in your break circuit.  (although i have LED's wired with mine they are seperated by a set of diodes with a seperate power source, it's a long story.....).  there might be a vacuum leak in your set up.  i used some CA glue to seal my vacuum tubes onto the check valves.  make sure your check valves are in the right direction, maybe you're not getting vacuum 'cause you have a bad check valve, or is hooked up wrong??

good luck.  once all the kinks get worked out, you'll like it!!

al.

[designer]

No LED, but I didn't use a check valve for my vacuum.. I'll put one of those on today.  I'll also add the third open vacuum line from the carb today that might get me some more vacuum.  After that I'll have to look at the wiring sequence with all going to a switched circuit.  I ddin't really understand why you need a constant power source if your only using while on. 

[Jess Tolbirt]

you MUST have check valves!!!! also it will work better with a vacuum can...easy to build...

[designer]

will try first with  just check valve then if that is not good go with can.

[MP]

will try first with  just check valve then if that is not good go with can.

Yep, you MUST have check valves, or it all leaks back every pulse.  A number of us have 2 vac lines, check valve on each BEFORE the "tee", and it works fine.  No need for a can.  Try it, and if you think you need a can, put it on.  Let us know either way. 

MP

[alph]

you don't need a vacuum canister.  i took my vacuum off of cylinders 1 and 2.  get two check valves, make sure the "black" of the check valves point towards the carbs and there is a "T" between the two white check valves.  that's where you tie in the servo vacuum tube.  I CAN'T BELIEVE I DIDN'T TAKE PICTURES!!! 

the vacuum check valves are easiest to get at a good automotive store.  i went to NAPA and paid $5 each.  not all auto stores will have 'em.  autozone didn't, neither did carquest (which amazes me 'cause they usually have everything i need!) DON'T RELY ON THE CASHIER TO KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR!!!  if you go in and ask the cashier if they have check valves, he's going to say "no" 'cause he doesn't want to work to help find 'em for you!! i found mine on a turn style thing that had fuses, hoses, and plastic clippies.  just ask they kid "where's your vacuum tube stuff" or ask if they have a check valve, you might get lucky!!

good luck, let us know what's the out come.   

[designer]

Well, got check valves in.  When I push the set button it rev's up and disengages.  Any ideals?  I have vacuum from two carbs with valves.

[MP]

Well, got check valves in.  When I push the set button it rev's up and disengages.  Any ideals?  I have vacuum from two carbs with valves.

Is that just sitting in the garage?  If so, take it out on the road and try it.  It cannot control rpm's accurately with no load.

MP

[designer]

Ok, that was a wet ride. Acts like it wNts to engage but loses speed after a short hold. Ill try a third carb vacuum as soon as I find the time.  Then comes the vacuum can.  Any ideals?

[alph]

Does your cycle run "good"?  Does it sputter, run rough?  Could you possibly have a leak in you carb causing you to leak vacuum?  There’s a small O-ring that goes on your carb, between the engine intake, is it an original?  Could that be leaking? Is the rubber boot tight?  check all those things and get back to us!!

don't get angry, i know how frustrating this can be.  IT WILL WORK!!  i promise, even if i have to drive over there and do it myself!! 

(damn, why didn't i take pictures!!!)

[TearlessTom]

The unit does have multiple positive wires like stated above. I believe it suggest one to be constant hot, and one to ignition. If you connect them to constant hot it will stay on when bike is off but the up side is it maintains your last set point.

As far as reving up and disengageing. It is seeing the reving as disengaging the clutch or rather engaging the clutch, the sudden change in rpm will disengage it. You must be riding the bike for it to work properly it must be under load.

The loosing speed is also like said above most likey from lack of vaccumn. I have mine with 5 lines to a small vaccumn tank  about 6 inches long 1 inch in diameter pvc in located in the air box.


Then to a second tank located under the seat in the battery compartment where I have the servo stored. No decels for me.

[alph]

as i sat on the couch i was wondering if you might have a flickering break light?  meaning, is it possible that your brake switch might be getting tripped and you don't even know it??  have someone drive behind you and check out if your brake light comes on when you're not stopping. 

i have a friend that has to physically push his front brake lever forwards to release his brake light. 

as for the vacuum, are you positive that the vacuum line does not get kinked anywhere in it's routing? 

[Jess Tolbirt]

as stated the vacuum lines are critical,, if it revs a little when setting then it is trying to set,,then when the engine revs up it is diseguaging itself because it reved up to quick,,, you must be riding the bike and then do the set and it should hold until you hit the brakes or pull in the clutch...
check valves bust be in the right direction and dip switch setting might have to be changed...

[MP]

There are also 3 settings for sensitivity on the control board.  Try setting the dip switch to a more sensitive one.  Several have gone to a more sensitive setting than it originally called for.

Personally, I do not think it is a vacuum problem, unless a hose is kinked or leaking.

I may have been the friend alph was mentioning.  My front brake lever would sometimes hit the switch when I hit a bump or something, and it would turn the control off. I also have more problem with the sidecar on.  The car forces more air in between the two.  If there is a strong wind from the car side, the wind will actually push the lever back some, and pop the cruise off.  I have the Goldwing wide levers, and the wind hits them more than OEM levers

MP

[designer]

Thanks for all the comments.  I'm going to replace the o-rings on the carbs as it doesn't run as smooth as it should.  I'm also going to take just about all the slack out of the linkage to the throttle as I have read somewhere.  Will install a third vacuum line to the servo. 

I don't think its the brake, as it will do the same thing sitting in the garage as on the road.  But I will throw a volt meter to it to see if its spikes.

Once I have the vacuum lines tight, I'll move to electrical issues and check all the connections.  I really think its Vacuum related in some way.  It wants to engage, but the increase in RPM's is about 500 when its pushed (static) and really tries to pick up speed when on the road.  Off to the dealer for O-rings today or tomorrow.

I'm only going to take this airbox out one more time.... lol

If I get frustrated I'll desmog the bike and hook all the excess vacuum to the servo....lol 

[fudgie]

If I get frustrated I'll desmog the bike and hook all the excess vacuum to the servo....lol 

Oh, the bike is not desmogged?  I wonder if thats the trouble. Never heard of the audiovox on a non desmoged bike.  ???

[MP]

If I get frustrated I'll desmog the bike and hook all the excess vacuum to the servo....lol 

Oh, the bike is not desmogged?  I wonder if thats the trouble. Never heard of the audiovox on a non desmoged bike.  ???

Same here.  I do not know, but it is possible that there is a problem?

MP

[Kingbee]

I've done 3 installs on bikes that weren't desmogged, with no problems.  Used 1 vacuum line with check valve, and vac reserve cannister.

[alph]

mine's not de-smogged, works perfect.  

here's a picture of my linkage on the throttle.  i drilled and tapped it (4mm thread) and used the hardware that was provided with the kit.  i used a chunk of flat iron to make my mounting bracket (yes i know i'll rust, but i was too impatient to make one out of stainless steel.)

[designer]

Rechecked vacuum lines, had a slow leak when I applied vacuum.  Replaced the T in the line and it holds 15 on the vacuum Gage.  But no change, revs up when engaged and doesn't hold. Going to try a cannister tomorrow.  Anyone have an ideal about the blue wire to the coil, I'm on yellow/red.  I'm still interested in why it revs up and disengages.

[TearlessTom]

Anyone have an ideal about the blue wire to the coil, I'm on yellow/red.  I'm still interested in why it revs up and disengages.

Any of the striped wires to any of the 3 coils is correct to pick up the pulse.

As for the fev up and disengages are you talking about while sitting in your garage or on the road driving.

If in your garage the system see it as if you are pulling in the clutch and disengages the unit. It will not do this if on the road.

If on the road your linkage my need to be adjusted.

[designer]

It revs up both, garage and road. 

[olddog1946]

I installed a cruise on my 63 Nova a few years back and had problems due to low car weight and a high performance V8....once I adjusted the "sensitivity" it was fine....so you may have it a bit too sensitive..

[TearlessTom]

I was thinking the same thing, It is normal in the garage but not on the road,  I would recheck the linkage and the sensitivity.

[alph]

at this point in the game, i'd have to agree with the two previous posts.  adjust your sensitivity, but don't cry about it..... 

[olddog1946]

After sleeping on it for a couple of hours, I think you should make sure that your servo is indeed working properly....get your hands on a mighty vac and hook it up directly to the vacuum port on the servo, draw a vacuum and ensure that it holds  at wot or wherever without leaking back down...once you've determined that the servo works properly you can move on to a leak somewhere else or the sensitivity adjustment..

[Jess Tolbirt]

make sure the wire that goes to the brake light is not hooked up to something else...
disconnect the stop light wire and take it out on the road and try it again,,,but remember the only way to disengage it is by the control,,
make sure you have a good ground,,,
it sounds to me like its electrical and something is not hooked up right,,,

on mine i do not have both hots switched one of them is constant,,,,shouldnt matter tho...

[MP]

make sure the wire that goes to the brake light is not hooked up to something else...
disconnect the stop light wire and take it out on the road and try it again,,,but remember the only way to disengage it is by the control,,
make sure you have a good ground,,,
it sounds to me like its electrical and something is not hooked up right,,,

on mine i do not have both hots switched one of them is constant,,,,shouldnt matter tho...

If you disconnect the wire to the brake light, it will NOT engage.  Ask me how I know!  It must be hooked up.

MP

[TearlessTom]

make sure the wire that goes to the brake light is not hooked up to something else...
disconnect the stop light wire and take it out on the road and try it again,,,but remember the only way to disengage it is by the control,,
make sure you have a good ground,,,
it sounds to me like its electrical and something is not hooked up right,,,

on mine i do not have both hots switched one of them is constant,,,,shouldnt matter tho...

It also will not engage if your brake light is burned out.

If you disconnect the wire to the brake light, it will NOT engage.  Ask me how I know!  It must be hooked up.

MP

[designer]

I have a mighty vac and brought the servo up to 15 and it held.  I'm leaning towards sensitivity also.  Either its trying to compensate for a preceived low vacuum signal or it applies too much vacuum to hold as it works up the cable to hold the throttle..  I'll take the upper off and tighten the cable up and  add another vacuum line.  I'll start running through the different sensitivity settings and do a mini DOE. 

I'm know I'm close to having this....

[designer]

DOE is done.  Switch 4 on is nothing. Switch 5 on is rev and nothing. No switch on is rev up and nothing. So low sensitivity is bad.  This was all done on the road.  Going to pull the upper apart and start checking wires and vacuum lines again.

[designer]

Wrenched on the lady for two days. Added a vacuum can and checked all the vacuum lines and electrical. If it doesn't work this time I'll add relay to brake line and then buy a break away unit. Test ride tomorrow will tell.  Crossing my fingers.

[alph]

This might not be anything, but, how much slack do you have on your throttle bar?  The bar that ties between the carburetors sets.  Could there possibly be too much slack and your servo is bottoming out?  Just for kicks and giggles, shorten up your slack once and see what happens. 

[MP]

This might not be anything, but, how much slack do you have on your throttle bar?  The bar that ties between the carburetors sets.  Could there possibly be too much slack and your servo is bottoming out?  Just for kicks and giggles, shorten up your slack once and see what happens. 

+1

MP

[designer]

I have cruise. Don't know if it was shorting the cable, added vacuum line or vacuum can. But I have cruise!  Thanks for all who helped.