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Author Topic: Carb info online?  (Read 3629 times)
Danny
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*****
Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« on: April 18, 2011, 07:53:51 PM »

Hello everyone. Just inherited my Valk and she has not run in about 3 years. Need some info on the carbs and fuel system. Any help would be nice. Thx.


Dan
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Fudd
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Posts: 1733


MSF RiderCoach

Denham Springs, La.


« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2011, 08:13:14 PM »

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Here is a link for the entire service manual.  I think pgs. 94-117 are the fuel system.
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Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie
John U.
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2011, 08:46:25 PM »

Hello Danny, welcome to the VRCC.
Unless the fuel system was drained for storage, you will need to clean the float bowls and likely replace the slow jets. They can be cleaned but 3 years is a long time for ethanol to do it's worst. The carb bank comes out as a unit. Take your time, with a shop manual it's not too hard.
Check the tank for rust with an inspection mirror. Ethanol absorbs water and that plus some time= rust. Clean the tank before attempting to run the bike or you'll be cleaning the carbs twice.
Sudco has the jets, stock slows are 35, the mains don't cause as much trouble usually.

Check the "shoptalk" section of this site regarding pectcock rebuilding.
You should probably replace the vacume lines unless you know it's been done recently. Shoptalk also has at least one article on desmog for you to consider.

Pull the rear wheel and lube the splines.
It will seem like a lot of work but once you're done, you'll have one of the great bikes of all time to convince you it was worth the effort.
Good luck and just ask if you have questions.
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98valk
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Posts: 13661


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2011, 07:33:41 AM »

welcome to the club

search is your friend, been addressed many times with links to websites.


first off, drain all of the old gas out of the tank and drain the bowls. put fresh gas in with a bottle of regaine, techron, redline or amsoil fuel cleaners. Most likely it will start. get it to were the fan comes on, then let it sit with the fuel cleaner in the carbs for about 1 hr. then go for a ride.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2011, 07:47:55 AM »

I agree with CA!

There may have been some preparation for storage,

And regarding ethanol gasoline, it was sparsely distributed regionally three years ago!

You may experience no problems at all!

Good luck!

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Fudd
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Posts: 1733


MSF RiderCoach

Denham Springs, La.


« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2011, 11:42:10 AM »

By the way Danny, congratulations on your inheritance.  You'll have a treasure once you get it cleaned up.
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Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie
valkyriemc
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Posts: 392


2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2011, 11:58:45 AM »

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Known%20Valkyrie%20Problems.htm
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Danny
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Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2011, 01:54:46 PM »

Okay...staring off slow. Found the petcock leaking and i am going to order one maybe a pingle. Second found fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe kickstand side so I pulled the plugs found fuel in the cylinders drained them and kicked the starter over a bit to make sure everyting was okay and it seems fine. I do have rust in the tank and I flushed out the tank and im a bit worried about how much crap came out of the tank, however after doing this a few times not much comes out anymore. Is there a specific addative or treatment for rust in the tank? Possibly a coating or something?
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15325


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2011, 02:01:14 PM »

Danny, where are you located? If you post your city on the left side with your profile, it's quite possible there's an experienced member nearby. This is a helpful bunch of characters.
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John U.
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2011, 02:09:18 PM »

Danny, check out Caswell plating. They sell a specific 2 part epoxy product for gas tanks. I've used it with good results.
That's why I suggested you check the tank, I've been where you are. Follow the directions closely on the Caswell site for tank prep and use of their epoxy and it will do a great job for not too much money. I did my tank 4 years ago and have had no problems. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
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Danny
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Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2011, 02:24:35 PM »

I am in Tucson, Az. I will have to update my profile once I figure out how.
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John U.
Member
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2011, 04:04:10 PM »

Just remembered some things that might help to avoid problems with tha tank sealer. The tank vent needs to be kept open or big trouble. Also, the plugs used to seal the openings must not remain in place, or they will never come out.

I got some very big fat pipe cleaners at a craft supply store. Keep the pipe cleaners in the vent tube while coating the tank. I remember having to twist two or three together to get enough length.
When the tank is sealed and the excess epoxy has been dumped and it just begins to firm up so it is not runny but is not fully cured is the time to remove the plugs used to seal the tank openings and clean up threads and sealing surfaces. That's also the time to remove the pipe cleaners. Not a bad idea to run fresh pipe cleaners in and out of the vent tube to be sure it's open all the way.

Have your pipe cleaners and clean-up rags and some solvent ready; time, tide and epoxy wait for no one.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2011, 08:51:36 AM »

I'm not a fan of sealing inside gas tanks.

To remove all the crap inside the tank use some kerosene with some nuts and screws added and shake and agitate. Do it more than once if you feel it necessary.

I think rust happens in gas tanks that sit for a time with very little use. Mine has no rust whatsoever.

On other forums where they discuss tank sealers the common thread is failure of the coating and clogging up everything with the residue.  The general consensus is that they (sealer)are a waste. With proper preparation things might be Ok. That's the hitch however.

Just keeping the tank relatively full will stop rusting and completely emptying it for storage is a good idea also.

A guarantee of performance would surely be necessary and remember: If the sealer fails the only sure cure would be get a new gas tank. Simply redoing over the old job is folly! How you going to clean that out?

***

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
98valk
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Posts: 13661


South Jersey


« Reply #13 on: April 21, 2011, 10:25:52 AM »

Exrust

Rust Remover - Fast - Easy to Use
Dissolves rust fast - easy to use. Concentrated Exrust chemically dissolves rust, cuts through grease. Thoroughly cleans metal surfaces. Simply soak rusted part -or apply to rusted surface - rust disappears. After treatment any type finish can be applied. Available in 16 oz. 1, 5, 15, and 55 gallon containers.
 
http://www.kanolabs.com/
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
John U.
Member
*****
Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #14 on: April 21, 2011, 03:55:45 PM »

Tank sealers are not all the same. I too have read horror stories about Kreeme and POR products. They are both one part formulations.
A two part epoxy is a different thing altogether. Epoxies of various formulations are used to coat all kinds of tanks to prevent corrosion from all kinds of chemicals, acids, even ethanol.
If you've had experience, by all means share it.
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Danny
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Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2011, 10:39:45 PM »

Nuts and bolts...Arent there baffels in the tank? I would be worried that they could get lodged in there some how knowing my luck.
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John U.
Member
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2011, 07:58:33 PM »

I had no trouble with losing screws. I did count them just to be sure they all came out. The abrasion they provide is needed to remove rust and create a surface the epoxy can bond to.
Be sure the tank is fully dry. Acetone helps with that. Always be careful of your paint, acetone or epoxy don't play well with paint.
Again, the best advice is to closely follow directions, be careful and think things through. It's really not that difficult.
As with painting, the most common mistakes are made in poor surface prep and not mixing the epoxy completely.
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Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2011, 04:42:11 AM »

Danny,
I too picked up my 97 Valkyrie that was sitting for over two years. Took four weeks getting it running. All carbs needed new needle valves, they were leaking by, cleaned the carbs many times, compression test showed three cylinders low, carbon buid up on the valves, of course they were not on the same head. Ground these in by hand, rather easy, I suggest buying the spring compressor tool from JP Cycles.
I strongly suggest you replace the o-rings between the carbs for the fuel. Had to do this after getting the bike on the road. The shop manual is a valuable tool. Long story short, carbs off the bike six times, three bad valves, three stuck enrichment valves, replaced all  six needle valves, cleaned the POS gas rooster as you did ( planning to replace this after reading this site) and trigger wheel to get it idling better without stumbling when starting out. The bike runs like a swiss watch now. Good luck, take your time.

Oh, I forgot to mention this ride only had 890 miles on it when I bought it.
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Danny
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Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #18 on: April 23, 2011, 05:01:09 PM »

Okay...finally after five 24 hour shifts of working two fire departments I can get home to work on my bike....if I have the energy but I am determined if not frustrated and delerious from too much work with too little play tickedoff. Does anyone have a quick reference on part numbers as far as stock and pingle petcock, and carb orings jets and anything else I might need. I am usually a stock parts ordering guy and there is a small Honda dealership in Tucson still, however my father who owned the bike before me did not place alot of confidence in them so I am open to aftermarket ideas as long as they are not junk. I don't know if there is a carb rebuilt kit availiable that any members have had alot of success with. Right now I feel like I just want to rebuid the whole fuel system after seeing the amount of rust that was in my tank, it was always instilled in me to do it right the first time so you don't end up doing it again. Short of newbie mistakes I am going to try and make this my goal. Tomorrow the carb rack comes off for a inspection and tear down and my pocket book gets lighter! LOL  laugh
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Danny
Member
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Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2011, 05:05:19 PM »

Also any other members in Tucson? Also while looking up on some parts wesites specifically HDL parts there is no classification for the Valk...all I see is GL1500A, GL1500C....I dont know what I have. Mine is black and chrome no goldwing look to it at all dare I say it is a standard? I just have no idea. thx

Daniel
« Last Edit: April 23, 2011, 05:12:39 PM by Danny » Logged
Ricky-D
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*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2011, 08:20:37 AM »

The frame tag up by the neck will identify which Valkyrie you have.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
GJS
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Posts: 424


Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.

Vancouver Island, BC, Canada


« Reply #21 on: April 24, 2011, 08:45:34 AM »

Sounds like you have a Standard.
The tourer has side bags, maybe with a windshield
The Interstate 1500CF of CFX has side bags, Trunk and big fork mounted fairing.
here is a picture of my Interstate. The tourer has the same looking sidebags.




Welcome aboard!

Glenn
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The tragedy of life is not that it ends so soon, but that we wait so long to begin it.
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Brian
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*****
Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2011, 06:24:19 PM »

Danny,
The vin # will also help you on some sites.  Ricky-D is correct about the tag on the frame.
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Danny
Member
*****
Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #23 on: April 25, 2011, 07:49:08 PM »

okay looks like I am going pingle...was reading a few other post it appears there is a vacumm pingle and a gravity feed?...I don't know thats why I am asking the question. looking for the least mods but the dealer just quoted me 170 for stock petcock. I have a leak from rivitted side so I need a new one reguardless just looking for function if the price is right! Part numebrs are helpful to a newbie so if you have them throw down please. thankx again everyone.

Dan

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F6BANGER
Member
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Posts: 835


Albuquerque NM


« Reply #24 on: April 26, 2011, 09:35:52 AM »

Regarding the rust in the tank....My buddy had rust in his honda shadow tank and he filled the tank with apple cider vinegar. I couldnt believe it took the rust out. Cleaned it nicely. Also about putting bolts and screws in the tank. I have heard of putting about 2' of chain in it so all you have to do is grab it and pull the whole thing out. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100337880/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053  this is not welded and isnt smooth so it will help scrub the rust depending on how bad it is.

Congratulations on the new Valkyrie  cooldude
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Bobbo
Member
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Posts: 2002

Saint Charles, MO


« Reply #25 on: April 26, 2011, 10:52:46 AM »

okay looks like I am going pingle...was reading a few other post it appears there is a vacumm pingle and a gravity feed?...I don't know thats why I am asking the question. looking for the least mods but the dealer just quoted me 170 for stock petcock. I have a leak from rivitted side so I need a new one reguardless just looking for function if the price is right! Part numebrs are helpful to a newbie so if you have them throw down please. thankx again everyone.

Dan



All Valkyrie fuel petcocks are gravity feed.  The vacuum you referred to is an auto shut-off feature of the OEM.  Some people replace the OEM with a manual shut off valve, as the vacuum one cannot be trusted to always shut off the fuel.
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F6BANGER
Member
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Posts: 835


Albuquerque NM


« Reply #26 on: April 26, 2011, 03:46:21 PM »

Okay...staring off slow. Found the petcock leaking and i am going to order one maybe a pingle. Second found fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe kickstand side so I pulled the plugs found fuel in the cylinders drained them and kicked the starter over a bit to make sure everyting was okay and it seems fine. I do have rust in the tank and I flushed out the tank and im a bit worried about how much crap came out of the tank, however after doing this a few times not much comes out anymore. Is there a specific addative or treatment for rust in the tank? Possibly a coating or something?

If the fuel was sitting in the cylinder for any length of time, the fuel could have leaked past the rings in to the oil. I would check the oil too. Might not be a bad idea ???
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Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #27 on: April 26, 2011, 05:20:07 PM »

Danny,
I too am considering the pingel replacement after reading this site. So far so with the OEM on my 97.

Check out easternperformance.com  #1311 CH valve for 89.95 or the pingel website and Amazon.com. A previous posted listed it at Pingel-Hex-chrome-90-degree-forward-petcock-for-harley. The pingel website has the aluminum valve cheaper. Personal preference since it really won't be seen. I am also considering the additional 12v Dan Marc valve with fuel strainer (might be an over kill) but at least the gas will be shut off since no longer used to turning off the fuel. I am starting that habit again right now.
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97BLKVALK
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Posts: 640


VRCC#26021

Detroit Lakes, MN


« Reply #28 on: April 26, 2011, 05:32:30 PM »

Welcome Danny!

For all the Carb Orings and Vacuum lines and caps, intake ORings check out Redeye.

Great Products and Service!

http://redeye.ecrater.com/

Give Rich an Email if you have questions.

Michael   cooldude

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All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing.

1997 GL1500C - Black
1997 GL1500C - Purple
1997 GL1500C - Bumble Bee
1998 GL1500C - Blue and Cream
Danny
Member
*****
Posts: 91


Tucson, Az


« Reply #29 on: April 27, 2011, 01:13:31 PM »

I was looking for a fuel filter and cannot find one on closer inspection of a few pictures it looks like there is some type of screen on the factory petcock...well it was not there when I removed it. I have rinsed out my tank and no screen fell out so I have no idea where it went. I am ordering a pingel but does the pingel have a fuel filter incoprorated into it? From the pictures online I cannot see any type of screen etc. Thx

Dan
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Brian
Member
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #30 on: April 27, 2011, 03:43:39 PM »

For now just pick one up at your auto parts store or lawnmower shop to fit the tubing for a few dollars. Also when checking redeye look for him first on e-bay. I did for my o-rings to find that e.crator was charging close to $5 for shipping, dealing them from e-bay the shipping was .64 cents and used paypal.
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Ricky-D
Member
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #31 on: April 28, 2011, 10:00:25 AM »

I was looking for a fuel filter and cannot find one on closer inspection of a few pictures it looks like there is some type of screen on the factory petcock...well it was not there when I removed it. I have rinsed out my tank and no screen fell out so I have no idea where it went. I am ordering a pingel but does the pingel have a fuel filter incoprorated into it? From the pictures online I cannot see any type of screen etc. Thx

Dan

It may still be in there.

The screen fits pretty snug and there is an O-ring also to help hold it in.

You may need to get a good light and a pair of needle nose to get the screen out.

You will not be able to install anything in place of the original until you get the old screen out.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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