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Author Topic: fork length  (Read 3114 times)
fast black
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Posts: 124

centerton, arkansas


« on: April 24, 2011, 05:01:56 PM »

This is probably the dumbest question ever asked but are the forks the same length when removed from bike.  I took mine off and sent them to a shop to be rebuilt.  Now the right fork,( sitting on seat) is half inch or so longer than left fork. 
I didn't check them when I took to shop but that doesn't seem right.
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GOOSE
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Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2011, 06:56:35 PM »

fast black......after reading your post, i went downstairs and checked mine (they are laying on floor after i just went through them , and installed progressive springs.).......from the top edge of the cap to the bottom is a hair under 34 1/16 inches on each fork....in other words, they are both exactly the same......if your right fork is 1/2 inch longer than the left fork, i'd say the guy that rebuilt them didn't do something right.  that situation is not going to be conducive to good handling.  don't ride it like this.
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DFragn
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Posts: 253


« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2011, 07:32:49 PM »

Are you sure your not talking about the left leg that the axle is first inserted to and not the right? What side is the front axle nut on???

Also, are your fork tube caps even at the top bridge in relation to height position?

It would be virtually impossible to screw up the right fork tube re-assemble. And, if someone did the dampener would self adjust to it. Even if the top dampener rod nut under the fork cap was at a less than optimal position.

However, the left fork leg is the rebound tube, sans dampener, with rebound spring in addition to the fork spring.
In this leg there's a washer that sits [flat] on top of the fork spring. If the tech just drops it in the tube as opposed to guiding it flat along with spring insertion, it can end up standing on end and leaning against the inside wall of the tube. In which case the spring collar tube below the rebound dampener is going to be lifted higher then normal which will over extend the fork length right about an 1/2".

If this is the case I don't believe it will overly effect handling as the fork spring will adjust, but you will hear the washer rubbing against the inside wall of the left tube.

It should be remedied. Take 'em both back to your shop!



 
« Last Edit: April 24, 2011, 07:38:34 PM by DFragn » Logged
fast black
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Posts: 124

centerton, arkansas


« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2011, 03:28:14 AM »

The axle nut is located on the right fork as I sit on the bike.  And the forks are different lengths. I took them off the bike and stood them straight up on level surface and sure enough they are different lengths.  I wonder if I got a mismatched set from the shop.  Yep, if it weren't  for bad luck I would have no luck at all. Anyhow, thanks for comfirming what I was pretty sure of. I will take them back tomorrow as they are closed today. 
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Bill anderson
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Posts: 29


« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2011, 03:31:11 AM »

Check out these videos for VTX forks.Valkyrie forks are identical.This will explain your problem.

VTX 1800 Fork Seals Part 1.wmvpowered by Aeva
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DFragn
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Posts: 253


« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2011, 04:48:06 AM »

Very interesting video, I like it.

However it doesn't account for 1 leg ending up either longer or shorter than the other.

The seal washer in the video is not the washer I referred to. The washer I suggested that could be the problem is inside the lower tube [left leg only] and between the spring collar and the rebound dampener.

I did learn something too.
I wonder how much damage I may have due to the 4 clamps I have on my tubes. I have no ill effects, although the video got me wondering...

Uh Oh, my tube clamps...
I believe my slide bushings & inner seal travel range are above these clamps. I hope...I'm not going to tear into 'em to find out since I have no signs of an issue. Doesn't mean i won't ever have an issue though.

Safe bet...always do the opposite of what I do or simply don't do it at all.  Evil

FastBlack, keep us posted to your resolution.

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fast black
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Posts: 124

centerton, arkansas


« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2011, 05:38:27 AM »

Oh yeah, I will let you know what happened.  And again thanks for your help. Smiley
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2011, 09:45:36 AM »

Both shocks in the relaxed position should be the same length.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Bill anderson
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Posts: 29


« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2011, 11:36:36 AM »

On my earlier video post click on the link below the video.It is a 4 part video.In part 4 it explains how to adjust fork length.
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DFragn
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Posts: 253


« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2011, 01:36:00 PM »

On my earlier video post click on the link below the video.It is a 4 part video.In part 4 it explains how to adjust fork length.

I viewed it and that's certainly one way.

The easiest method I've used three times, avoiding that extra work in the video, is to count the threads from the top of threaded rod where the fork caps screw on down to lock at nut positions.
I believe, sans checking my notes, the stock position is 16 threads each side from the rod top. I've never had a mismatch with length.

Also, proper fork cap torque should be imposed. Too much and you'll strip the cap threads.

Showa did a good job of matching the threaded rods between the forks.

That nut under the top cap can also be utilized as a dampener adjustment [internal] too.

No matter what, the thread counts should be identical between the two forks.
AND NEVER REDUCE THE THREAD COUNT INTO THE CAPS BELOW 10 THREADS IF REDUCING DAMPENING EFFECTS.

No liabilities implied or offered. Information offered as opinion only.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 01:53:15 PM by DFragn » Logged
fast black
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Posts: 124

centerton, arkansas


« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2011, 01:29:20 PM »

I picked up the forks from the repair shop.  The tech said that a nut came loose while he was reassembling them and that was the cause of the mismatched length. 
Thanks again for your help.
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DFragn
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Posts: 253


« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2011, 01:31:25 PM »

I picked up the forks from the repair shop.  The tech said that a nut came loose while he was reassembling them and that was the cause of the mismatched length. 
Thanks again for your help.

Good Deal   cooldude
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Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2278

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #12 on: April 28, 2011, 05:48:31 AM »

On my earlier video post click on the link below the video.It is a 4 part video.In part 4 it explains how to adjust fork length.

Ok, a little highjack here (but fork related).  Love this video and I intend to watch all once I get home from work.

I need to replace my forks on my '99 Standard with a used set I got from ebay.  I want to go through them to replace the seals, check the bushings, and make sure the oil level is correct before I install them.

In this video it talks about not needing the "special" tool to remove the seals and bushings which he did in the video.  Now this is all I'm intending to do, baring I don't find anything else once I'm in there, so I shouldn't need the "special tool?  Or is this covered in the other videos?

I do have the manual that I downloaded but it is not the best quality and the pictures don't print very well at all.

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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
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