Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
November 22, 2025, 07:31:03 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Bleeding Brakes  (Read 1734 times)
xmicmic
Member
*****
Posts: 14


« on: April 26, 2011, 05:43:15 PM »

I dont remember having so much trouble but when bleeding my front brakes the brake handle still is loose and doesn't activate the front brakes. Couldn't find any proper method anywhere. Do I open the system at one brake then pump the handle?. Do I squeeze the brake handle then close the end at the brake and repat it several times?. Tried using a pump at the brake and it doesn't work. There has got to be something more descriptive in sequene, Thanks
Logged
matt
Member
*****
Posts: 577

Derry New Hampshire


« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2011, 05:50:14 PM »

you have enough fluid in res  make sure bleeders are closed pump pedal or handle hold pressure then open bleeder while holding pedal or handle, close bleeder and repeat till no air seen comming out . make sure you keep an eye on fluid level or it will just suck air in again and watch the brake fluid do not spill it as it does not do well on paint  Matt
Logged
GOOSE
Member
*****
Posts: 704


D.S. #: 1643

Southwest Virginia


« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2011, 06:07:17 PM »

xmicmic.....you said you had a vaccum pump.  it really is the easiest way , at least for me, to do it.  turn your handlebars all th way to the left, or far enough to get your right master cylinder close to level.  remove the cover/gasket/and the little piece of foam.  using the vaccum pump...suck out all of the dirty brake fluid from the master cylinder.  now...refill the master cylinder with clean dot 4 fluid up to the line inside the cylinder.  gp up to the bleed valve on the left caliper, and attach your vaccum hose...pump the vaccum pump handle to put a vaccum on the attached hose...take a wrench and crack open the bleader valve, and make sure you maintain a vaccum on hose.  here's where a second person is handy, but you can do it yourself, maintain the fluid level in the master cylinder.....when you have run 2- cylinders of brake fluid through with no air bubles showing at the bleeder hose tighten the bleeder valve.   do the same porocedure on the right side.  the clutch is done the same way, and the rear brake is the same also.  good luck.
Logged

Shotgun
Member
*****
Posts: 119


Canadian Lakes, Michigan


« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2011, 04:08:51 AM »

I've been using Speedbleeders for years.  You just pump out the old fluid and replace it with new.  You may use a little more new fluid but not enough that would force you to buy a second container of it.  Go here: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Logged
JC
Member
*****
Posts: 321


The Beast

Franklin, TN


« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2011, 06:10:07 AM »

I've been using Speedbleeders for years.  You just pump out the old fluid and replace it with new.  You may use a little more new fluid but not enough that would force you to buy a second container of it.  Go here: http://www.speedbleeder.com/



+1 on the speedbleeders!  cooldude Works great for the clutch too.
Logged

Damn thing gives me the grins every time I get on it!
Westsider
Member
*****
Posts: 716


Fort Worth TX.


« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2011, 09:11:46 AM »

i go to the feed store get a big horse syringe, get some 3/16 id 5/16 od clear tubing from parts store ,so you can see when your fluid is coming out all clean and clear..jamb a piece of about 6-10 inch tubing between the syringe and bleeder,crack the bleeder and  suck the fluid out till you get to low in the resviroir..keep filling up resviour...repeat till you have clear fluid at the bleeder,,,even if you suck the res. dry, just fill it up and start over...works perfect for me every time..front and back brakes, and clutch should take about a half hr. you wont have any air and your levers and pedal will be rock soild cooldude.... close the bleeder every time you disconnect tubing to empty syringe. Cheesy,,,,you dont ever have to pump or sqeeze anything...clean it out good when your done and you have a squit gun to shoot water at the kids Grin Grin
« Last Edit: May 01, 2011, 08:17:22 AM by Paul » Logged

we'll be there when we get there -   Valkless,, on lookout....
N0tac0p
Member
*****
Posts: 413



« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2011, 09:25:34 AM »

unless you're extrememely patient or jsut wnat to sit there sipping beer for hours and days, DON'T BLEED THEM USING THE BRAKE HANDLE.  i started that way and after ~ 3 hours and some creative language I hooked up the shop vac to the bleeder and sucked the fluid down from the resevior (just had to keep topping off) and done both sides in 10-15 minutes.
Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2011, 12:30:04 PM »

I dont remember having so much trouble but when bleeding my front brakes the brake handle still is loose and doesn't activate the front brakes. Couldn't find any proper method anywhere. Do I open the system at one brake then pump the handle?. Do I squeeze the brake handle then close the end at the brake and repat it several times?. Tried using a pump at the brake and it doesn't work. There has got to be something more descriptive in sequene, Thanks

Sounds like you have serious air in the system rather than a bubble or two.

With the cap removed and clean fluid in the reservoir you can move the lever just slightly and should see a bubble form in the bottom of the reservoir at the pressure release port. Need to continue the velvet glove treatment until you start to feel some resistance (brake pressure) There are other ways to get large air out of the system but this will work if you are careful to watch what you're doing.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: