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Author Topic: Cutting Chrome plate?  (Read 1501 times)
Chiefy
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Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« on: April 30, 2011, 08:25:38 AM »

I just put some armrests on my standard.  Now the chrome cover that bolted to the back of the sissybar pad is too long to go back on.  Not being a machinist or metal worker, and having limited tools, I'm wondering how to cut this without ruining it.  Never worked with chrome, so I'm wondering if it will flake or crack near the cut.

I have a sawsall and a jig saw both with metal blades.  I also have a table saw, but no metal blade for it right now.  And of course, I have a hacksaw.

Any nudge in the right direction before it turns into a "Clark Griswold" project?

Camera batteries are dead (naturally) I think this one was a Honda accessory.  It has the Honda F6 Emblem on it.
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2011, 08:48:26 AM »

The thicker the chrome plate the worse it will take cutting and the cheaper flash plating will actually take cutting much more easily.

Flaking, peeling and chipping is always a hazard when cutting chrome plated items.

Grinding may offer better results depending on how its done.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2011, 10:27:44 AM »

I've cut quite a few of these Hondaline trim plates for riders who wanted my Highlighter to fit either a Mustang or Cobra backrest pad, which is shorter than the Honda pad.  Generally, Honda chrome is pretty good - only a small percent peel, like under 10%.  You cannot tell if the chrome was improperly applied by inspecting it - One of my platers used to add a throwaway part to go through the baths at the same time - then whack that piece with a hammer - if it blistered, the batch was bad.  There are many causes of poorly applied chrome - but that is always the reason if it peels.  You can reduce the probability of peeling by cutting with an abrasive wheel rather than a toothed blade.  If it's marginal chrome, the blade will always knock it loose.  You can use a cutter wheel in an angle grinder, or a chop saw - either work. Have a water bath or spray handy and cool the cut as an abrasive cutter will raise the temp to the nearly-coloring point - and you might cross that point.  Don't go slow with the cutter - that will heat the chrome more. Use a belt sander, fine grit not courser than 120, if you have one, to remove the burr, with the belt moving towards the shiny side, perpendicular to the plane of the plate.  Best if the belt does not have a platen behind it.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2011, 10:29:16 AM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Chiefy
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*****
Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2011, 09:03:44 AM »

I've cut quite a few of these Hondaline trim plates for riders who wanted my Highlighter to fit either a Mustang or Cobra backrest pad, which is shorter than the Honda pad.  Generally, Honda chrome is pretty good - only a small percent peel, like under 10%.  You cannot tell if the chrome was improperly applied by inspecting it - One of my platers used to add a throwaway part to go through the baths at the same time - then whack that piece with a hammer - if it blistered, the batch was bad.  There are many causes of poorly applied chrome - but that is always the reason if it peels.  You can reduce the probability of peeling by cutting with an abrasive wheel rather than a toothed blade.  If it's marginal chrome, the blade will always knock it loose.  You can use a cutter wheel in an angle grinder, or a chop saw - either work. Have a water bath or spray handy and cool the cut as an abrasive cutter will raise the temp to the nearly-coloring point - and you might cross that point.  Don't go slow with the cutter - that will heat the chrome more. Use a belt sander, fine grit not courser than 120, if you have one, to remove the burr, with the belt moving towards the shiny side, perpendicular to the plane of the plate.  Best if the belt does not have a platen behind it.

Hmmmmm.  Well, I have a good angle grinder, but have never needed to use a cutter wheel.  Is that the same as a "Cut off" wheel?   And I've always pictured a cut off wheel as being used to cut off nails and such, not to cut metal plates.  Trying to picture how to use it with a flat chrome plate.  Should I cut on the dull side or chrome side?  And I just grind along the line I want to cut, like using a blade?
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1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2011, 09:37:59 AM »

Use a straight edge and a sharpie to draw a line to follow on the shiny side. You can apply tape if you think you might touch the piece in the finished area with the cutter wheel.  I don't bother; take good care with the cutter. Clamp it overhanging off a work table with a clean shop rag and a welding clamp (vice grips with oversize jaws and swivel pads).  This work table should be low so you can stand over it.  Use a metal cutting cutoff wheel in a 4 1/2" angle grinder.  Such wheels are typically 1/16" thick. Harbor Freight sells them - so does Home Depot. Carefully follow the drawn line with the cutter.  It's a bit easier to see if you move the cutter away from the sparks.  Make a light pass to change the drawn line into a shallow cut.  Follow this with another pass making the cut deeper.  Meanwhile use your off hand to help steady the cutter.  This type of cutter, with this method, makes it easy to keep the line straight, and doing separate shallow cuts prevent overheating the chrome without cooling it.  A third pass will finish the cut. Almost all of the burr will be on the back side.  I remove the burr with a 1" belt sander as I described before.  This is the perfect sander for that - remove the platen behind the belt, and sand just the edge with the belt moving towards the finished side not away from it.  I have the more expensive combination sander with the 5" disc.  The belt on this sander moves at 34mph. Effective even with a worn belt. I removed the table on the sander too, as it gets in the way when needing to sand larger pieces. This sander at Harbor Freight followed by 10" bench buffer wheels with polishing compound, will put a razor edge on your knives in under a minute.  (Use care not to de-temper the steel - I can explain the process in more detail if you're interested.  This same method - a belt sander followed by buffing wheels - is how knife manufacturers put the factory edge on quality knives.)

« Last Edit: May 01, 2011, 10:04:16 AM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Chiefy
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Posts: 1046


Sarasota, Florida


« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2011, 10:10:01 AM »

Use a straight edge and a sharpie to draw a line

>>Snip!<<

Thanks for typing up all those details.  The plate is much too long, so I have room for a practice cut too.

Will wait a few weeks until I'm sure Mrs. Chiefy is happy with the height of the armrests.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2011, 10:13:55 AM by Chiefy » Logged


1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles
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