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Author Topic: Bel Ray Waterproof instead of moly paste? General Machanic know how.......  (Read 4473 times)
toetruck21
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Wahoo, NE


« on: May 01, 2011, 03:34:26 PM »

Ok I've been searching and reading and now my head is spinning!  Just to confirm what I believe I have been reading, its ok to use a good waterproof grease instead of the moly paste on the wheel splines? 

I'm attempting my first rear wheel change and while I'm at it going to go through everything.  I've ordered brake pads, O-ring kit, exhaust gaskets, bearings, damper set, thrust washer, dust seal, some acorn nuts and studs because the previous owner left me with a hodge podge of different nuts.  I have also ordered some 90 degree chrome valve stems.  Ordered a Avon Cobra AV72.  I think all I have left is the proper grease/ maybe paste to purchase.

I have the Clymer book and download the service manual which I have been following.  Was going to follow the steps on the article in the shop talk area when putting everything back together.  Is there something I'm missing on my hit list, any input would be appreciated!

I also will be installing some 440 progressive shocks, is there any tricks to this?  Is it as simple as pulling four bolts out and swapping shocks?

Here is my work in progress, ordered a bike lift adapter from ebay and once that is installed the bike will be lifted and the wrenching will continue!


Thanks for any help or suggestions or tips!  Mike
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Daniel Meyer
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2011, 03:42:48 PM »

Any good grease will do. Assembly is the key...particularly tightening the 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin on the swing arm *after* you torque the axle.
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Daniel Meyer
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2011, 03:52:42 PM »

Any good grease will do. Assembly is the key...particularly tightening the 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin on the swing arm *after* you torque the axle.

The Master beat me to it.  Discussions about what to use are almost as bad as oil or car tire threads.  Iirc, Daniel uses Belray, I use Valvoline Durablend Synthetic Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease, Some use Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty Grease and one guy I know uses a 50/50 mix of assembly lube and Guard Dog 70.  Others will insist Honda Moly 60 is the only thing to be used.

Like Daniel said correct reassembly is the key.

Marty
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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2011, 04:30:43 PM »

Just pulled my rear wheel, and need something cleared up as well (sorry if this is a hijack). The 4 swing-arm bolts: Do you only torque them last if you've pulled the drive-shaft etc (after loosening them), or do you mean loosen them, mount the tire and then re-torque?
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2011, 05:36:26 PM »

Loosen them even when just pulling tire so when your retighten axle nut everything can line up and then retighten four final drive bolts.
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X Ring
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2011, 06:41:43 PM »

You loosen them before reassembly so the wheel flange and final drive can align with each other then after you've torqued the axle you can torque the final drive nuts.

Marty
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gordonv
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Richmond BC


« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2011, 06:45:28 PM »

The only thing else I could think of was new bushings for the shocks. But since you are changing the shocks anyways, I would think they already have them.
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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2011, 07:25:40 PM »

Thanx. X.
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2011, 10:35:53 PM »

i was just thinking.....if a person would take equal amounts of each grease that each person here uses, and mixed them together (equal parts mind-you.) we would have one $$$$ of a perfect grease.  the splines, pinion cup, drive-shaft, and u-joint would literally last forever.
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Steve K (IA)
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2011, 10:51:13 PM »

The dealer where I bought my I/S back in 2000 said that BelRay Waterproof grease was all they used and never seen a spline failure.  I took their advise and mine looks as good as new at around 55,000 miles.   Wink
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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2011, 11:01:41 PM »

I've got it mostly apart, and will be doing the drive shaft as well, looks like. I picked up a tube of Polaris hi-molly u-joint paste/grease (it says paste, but is in a small grease gun tube) at the Kawasaki dealer that sells Dyna Beads, for less than $5.00, and will try that. He says he'll mount the CT on the rear rim for $30.00 as well. No car tire dealer will even try (the rim won't fit their equipment), nor will my Honda dealer; 'liability' (read as 'we want to sell you a tire').
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
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« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2011, 07:26:47 AM »

No car tire dealer will even try (the rim won't fit their equipment).
Fred.

BS!  I get my car tires installed at a car tire dealer.  I remove the brake disc and wheel flange.  They put it on the machine flange side down.  No problem at all.

Marty
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fudgie
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2011, 08:27:05 AM »

Do 1 shock at a time.
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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2011, 08:52:50 AM »

It's what I was told at 3 tire shops. I say 'motorcycle rim' and they back slowly away from the counter...Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
Daniel Meyer
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« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2011, 11:36:46 AM »

Any mag wheel machine can do the valk rim as far as mounting/dismounting.

Most car places won't have the proper adapter to fit it on their spin balancer though.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #15 on: May 02, 2011, 09:35:39 PM »

Any mag wheel machine can do the valk rim as far as mounting/dismounting.

Most car places won't have the proper adapter to fit it on their spin balancer though.

That is true.  I used to install Dyna Beads but now I put in Ride On instead.

Marty
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