A few questions for you fine folks......

[97ValkSteve]

Looks like I'm going to have to wait several weeks to get into my mechanic of choice to have some things done.  I was hoping to at least get my new Avons on so I could feel confident about riding it around until then.  My question is:  Is there any (reasonable) way a dealer mechanic could screw up a tire change?  I'm thinking about letting dealer at least do that much.  They DID sucessfully put some tires on my old ZZR before but I just don't trust them much otherwise.  Ain't that sad? 

Also, I lost the link I had to someone's article/thread about the best way to fill up the Valkyrie's gas tank.  Does anyone know where that is?  Don't even know if it's on this forum or not.  Lots of splashing on my first fill up. 

I was reading in the owners manual that Octane 87 gas is ok.  What do y'all use?  I used high octane on my first fill up. 

Thanks in advance.  Steve

[ArmyValker]

Well, the major thing about changing tires is the rear spline service which is supposed to be done when you pull the wheel. A lot of folks have had problems with dealerships not doing this, leading to major problems.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm

If you have some way to jack up the bike, I usually pull the wheel myself and have the tire put on the rim. I think I paid 25 bucks last time I did it, and I was still assured that the rear end service was done.

[Black Dog]

If you are able, drop the tires/wheels, and take them in to the tire place, off the bike...  Save some $$$

The Valk gas tank, has a small vent hole inside the filler rim...  Some (myself included) have enlarged that hole to about twice the original size, using a MANUAL drill, or brace (don't use a power drill near gas).  Have a helper with a shop vac grab the drilling scraps as you enlarge the hole.  Next time you fill, the process will go quicker, as the air inside the tank, can escape quicker.

No need for any more octane than called for in the owners manuel, unless there is an after market 'Trigger Wheel' installed.

Good luck, ride safe, and have a great ride 

Black Dog

[HayHauler]

Hi Steve.  I use 87 all the time with no problems.  I have an IS and to my knowledge the trigger wheel is stock.  The only time you need to worry about octane is if the timing has been modified on your bike.  ie - trigger wheel, ETC mod...

As for gassing up, I just fill until the pump shuts off, then "slowly" put more in unitl the level gets about an inch from the top.

I let a dealer (non Honda) put on my first 2-3 tires, but I could watch them from the service window and they didn't even get any grease NEAR the rear of the bike.  On the third, and last, rear tire I had them replace, I told them about the grease and watched as they put it on.
I guess the only problem with the dealer tire changes I have had were the lack or spline maintenance and the air wrench.  They don't torque the axle nut and they don't loosen the 4 nuts on the swing arm and tighten them last like the manual says.

I take my rims off and take them in to get tires put on these days.  That way, I can be assured that the rear splines are well maintained.  I also can check the condition of the bearings at the same time.

Dealer tire changes are ok if you specify a few things before they do the work.

Good Luck,

Hay  
Jimmyt

[DFragn]

The Valk gas tank, has a small vent hole inside the filler rim...  Some (myself included) have enlarged that hole to about twice the original size, using a MANUAL drill, or brace (don't use a power drill near gas).  Have a helper with a shop vac grab the drilling scraps as you enlarge the hole.  Next time you fill, the process will go quicker, as the air inside the tank, can escape quicker.
Black Dog

Drill ?
Not so sure that would be my first choice method. What if that shop vac let's a sliver drop or two into the tank.
A couple of those sharp shards could potentially open a hole in the internal filter and potentially allow debris or even the shard itself into a carb and hold a needle up. Just sayin'...

I would use a punch or phillips head screwdriver & a hammer to punch the vent hole larger.
Why add to the risk of a Hydro-Lock situation.

[JohnD]

Try the "McCuff" to use when filling your tank. Its great and prevents splashing. Google McCuff and you will find the web site with a video on it. It works, Ive had mine for a couple years now. Don't pay attention to the brainless idiot pictured on the advert. But the product does work. Ride safe.

[97ValkSteve]

Try the "McCuff" to use when filling your tank. Its great and prevents splashing. Google McCuff and you will find the web site with a video on it. It works, Ive had mine for a couple years now. Don't pay attention to the brainless idiot pictured on the advert. But the product does work. Ride safe.

..."brainless idiot"..... 

Does the "McCuff" allow you to fill up faster in addition to reducing splashing or do you still have to deal with the tiny vent hole?

[MP]

The Valk gas tank, has a small vent hole inside the filler rim...  Some (myself included) have enlarged that hole to about twice the original size, using a MANUAL drill, or brace (don't use a power drill near gas).  Have a helper with a shop vac grab the drilling scraps as you enlarge the hole.  Next time you fill, the process will go quicker, as the air inside the tank, can escape quicker.
Black Dog

Drill ?
Not so sure that would be my first choice method. What if that shop vac let's a sliver drop or two into the tank.
A couple of those sharp shards could potentially open a hole in the internal filter and potentially allow debris or even the shard itself into a carb and hold a needle up. Just sayin'...

I would use a punch or phillips head screwdriver & a hammer to punch the vent hole larger.
Why add to the risk of a Hydro-Lock situation.

I just used a small Phillips screwdriver, and a hammer.  Enlarge the existing hole with the Phillips.  NO cuttings that way, very easy to do.  I also put a couple more in on the high side for good measure.  Again, a small Phillips, just punch it thru.  Soft Aluminum, so it punches VERY easy.  1 minute will do for it all.  MUCH less spitting back when topping off.

MP

[DFragn]

Try the "McCuff" to use when filling your tank. Its great and prevents splashing. Google McCuff and you will find the web site with a video on it. It works, Ive had mine for a couple years now. Don't pay attention to the brainless idiot pictured on the advert. But the product does work. Ride safe.

..."brainless idiot"..... 

Does the "McCuff" allow you to fill up faster in addition to reducing splashing or do you still have to deal with the tiny vent hole?

Good point. It would appear the McCuff seals well enough. So I would wonder how it permits air escape.

My other thought is what happens when an auto shut off pump malfunctions? And they do malfunction on rare occasions. With pump flow you could essentially have an eruption of gasoline. Much more so then without the cuff 'cause you couldn't see or predict it to happen.

Then of course there's risk of damage to the bike i.e. painted surfaces [namely your clear coat with enough gasoline]. How about risk of fire if the auto shutoff fails. Risk of personal injury or worse.

My thought is, you've added a device to a company's fuel pump...I doubt a court would see it your way.

McCuff is a great idea, but I don't believe any number of patents is going to protect the patent holder from liabilities.
Until gasoline companies approve such alterations to their pumps.

It ain't the $20.00 for me. It's about relenting blind control and risk of auto-off pump failure to a hunk of rubber.

[Westernbiker]

I take tires and rims off myself and take them to dealer. One thing is if you drop them off be sure the service people know it's a VALK not a Goldwing. I have had them install the rear tire backwards because the tech saw the work order saying it was a GL1500 and he thought it was for a Goldwing. Goldwing tires mount opposite of the Valk, so be sure to check direction of tire and also be sure they put the retainer clips back on for the valve stem, I have had them forget that too.

[Jess from VA]

Since the bike is center fill, I always pull up close and stay on the bike to keep it level.  Shut off in gear so no rolling.  Shove card, stick nozzle down in and fill full-tilt till shutoff, then pull nozzle up and slow feed looking down the hole.  Some pumps allow very slow feed, others don't.  Quit if it's too fast.  Once the tank looks full (on the IS) I can get another dollar in on slow feed.  Reset trip meter to 0.   

[F6BANGER]

I dont let the dealer change the tires anymore. Last time they didnt take off the weights and tried to balance the tire. They added a bunch of weights to the other side. I took them all off and melted them down and made a boat anchor....kidding....I have a harbor freight tire buster and do it myself. I also use dynabeads.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Since the bike is center fill, I always pull up close and stay on the bike to keep it level.  Shut off in gear so no rolling.  Shove card, stick nozzle down in and fill full-tilt till shutoff, then pull nozzle up and slow feed looking down the hole.  Some pumps allow very slow feed, others don't.  Quit if it's too fast.  Once the tank looks full (on the IS) I can get another dollar in on slow feed.  Reset trip meter to 0.   

Yep, same way I do it.

The dealer did my first tire change right after I bought the bike with about 5500 miles on it. I did the next tire change but by then my splines were ruined. Rust actually fell out as I pulled the wheel.

[..]

I take tires and rims off myself and take them to dealer. One thing is if you drop them off be sure the service people know it's a VALK not a Goldwing. I have had them install the rear tire backwards because the tech saw the work order saying it was a GL1500 and he thought it was for a Goldwing. Goldwing tires mount opposite of the Valk, so be sure to check direction of tire and also be sure they put the retainer clips back on for the valve stem, I have had them forget that too.

Duct tape on the disc, duct tape on the new tire. Put a nice big fat black arrow on each strip to show rotation.

[97ValkSteve]

Wow!  Great tips, guys!  Keep em' coming.  Steve

[R J]

The Valk gas tank, has a small vent hole inside the filler rim...  Some (myself included) have enlarged that hole to about twice the original size, using a MANUAL drill, or brace (don't use a power drill near gas).  Have a helper with a shop vac grab the drilling scraps as you enlarge the hole.  Next time you fill, the process will go quicker, as the air inside the tank, can escape quicker.
Black Dog

Drill ?
Not so sure that would be my first choice method. What if that shop vac let's a sliver drop or two into the tank.
A couple of those sharp shards could potentially open a hole in the internal filter and potentially allow debris or even the shard itself into a carb and hold a needle up. Just sayin'...

I would use a punch or phillips head screwdriver & a hammer to punch the vent hole larger.
Why add to the risk of a Hydro-Lock situation.

I'm surprised at you lads.     That vent is a very soft piece of material.   Take a punch that will fit in the hole and then start moving it in a circle and pushing at the same time.    About 3 or 4 circles and ya got a bigger hole.      NO need to go no bigger and nuttin is coming off of this operation to get  in the carbs, filters and etc.

Thanks for listening, now we return to our normal programming.

[FLAVALK]

The first time I had to change my front tire, I let a local dealer do it. I thought, "What could go wrong"? Well they broke off my front right highway peg, so yes, they can screw up something. Since then I always remove my wheel and take it to them.

Also, I've had a 6-deg trigger wheel on my bike for at least eight years and have never used anything but 87-octane. So far, so good

[97ValkSteve]

Perhaps someday I'll gain some expertise and equipment to do more myself but that remains to be seen.  I've decided to wait and have this guy who I know is a good Valk and Goldwing mechanic do the tires and some other stuff.  Bad news is I have to wait until June 7th.  So I'll just tool around locally until I get it all done.  I've moved the bike back and forth and don't hear or feel any noises back there in the spline area so maybe I'll be lucky when they do look it over. 

Will take a look at that tiny vent hole as well. 

Well, nothing for it now except to go ride her a bit.  Take care.  Thanks for the replies. Steve

[czuch]

Not gonna sweat the vent hole. I am quite comfy with the "watchwatchurdoin" method.
Tire changes are all in house. The 3 "O" rings and plenty-o-grease all get renewed.
Just because its there, I also drain and refill the final drive.
What the heck, maybe even a wash and wax.

[ValkFlyer]

  Crimeny, how hard is to fill a gas tank?  I’m beginning to think I'm missing some real fun.  

[Michael K (Az.)]

Since the bike is center fill, I always pull up close and stay on the bike to keep it level.  Shut off in gear so no rolling.  Shove card, stick nozzle down in and fill full-tilt till shutoff, then pull nozzle up and slow feed looking down the hole.  Some pumps allow very slow feed, others don't.  Quit if it's too fast.  Once the tank looks full (on the IS) I can get another dollar in on slow feed.  Reset trip meter to 0.   

What Jess said! Just gotta pay some attention to it. 87 octane's just peachy!

[old2soon]

Got a custom chopper house to do mine. $20.00 a wheel off and on. He works mostly on harly davis stuff but took a liking to my valk. Every time i go there now he has some customers to do the nickel trick for. Don't even use automatic fill on a m/c. Slow and easy on manual. It ain't rocket science but pay attention. Get a lift-read the manuals-pull the wheels yourself. Do the spline lube the o ring and thrust washer and the dust seal. Ya i know-sounds like a foreign language. Once you do it yourself-it's perfectly clear. There is lotsa help on this board. Don't be afraid to ask. Most of these folks have been there and done that. I'll have had my dragon 1 year on 30 june 2011. All that stuff i just mentioned plus the timing belts plus the fluid change plus brake pads front and rear plus pull and replace both wheels my first attempt in a long time wrenching. I was able to do it because of this board and these folks that hang out here. If you know which end of a wrench and srewdriver to hang onto and can read and apply what you read-you can do this. Take it one step at a time. Pay attention and do it. An awful lot of these folks do it for the same reasons-keeps more money in your pocket you know it's done correctly-a lot of self satisfaction when you drop her down the lift- crank her up for the test ride and everything works like it's supposed to. Don't get much better than that. RIDE SAFE.

[PAVALKER]

Watch out on the tire changes... yes they can screw it up.  I had a dealer put my front wheel on backwards during a tire change       I was not a happy camper.

Just make sure the wheel and tire arrows are going the right way before you head on down the road.

[97ValkSteve]

Since the bike is center fill, I always pull up close and stay on the bike to keep it level.  Shut off in gear so no rolling.  Shove card, stick nozzle down in and fill full-tilt till shutoff, then pull nozzle up and slow feed looking down the hole.  Some pumps allow very slow feed, others don't.  Quit if it's too fast.  Once the tank looks full (on the IS) I can get another dollar in on slow feed.  Reset trip meter to 0.   

Did this today on my second tank and it worked mucho better without any splashing or spillage.  Shook out a few drops before though.  Got 32 mpg on my first tank but I'm not sure if it was really full either.  Anyway, it's hard to drive economically with a new bike AND  two brothers drag pipes to boot.  Maybe next tank?  Right........ 

[Jess from VA]

Just to be anal about the subject..... when you pull the nozzle from the pump, aim it straight up, cross the bike, hold it out at arm's length, then turn it over shaking out any residual to the pavement.  Then aim it up again bring it over the tank and turn it over right into the fill hole.  When finished, let it drip, then turn the nozzle straight up to return it to the pump.  I also use my left (non pumping) hand to hold the hose off the bike during the refueling... it is often slimy-greasy.

[Valk_ca]

OK, so here's a new twist. Went to fill up the Valk at the local Shell. Pull up to the pump, whip out the credit card and slide it through. Pump doesn't start. Instead I get a voice telling me that I must dismount the bike before filling. WTF?! I tell him my bike has no center stand and I'll only be able to fill 1/2 the tank if I get off the bike. He says, "Sorry sir, company policy." I say, "You really don't want my business" and fire up the beast and go to the Esso across the street and fill up with no questions asked.

I put the more expensive stuff in my tank. Hate to put ethanol in my bikes. My boat motor never gets ethanol either. Out at the cottage the dealers make a point of marking the ethanol free pumps for the benefit of the boaters. Boat motors really run like crap on that junk.

Honda dealer in Missoula MT (don't ask how we met) once told me he spends most of his time working on Weekend Warriors ATVs. Let that ethanol crap sit in the carbs all week and they're gunked up. Even had a jar of gas sitting on the window ledge to show what that stuff does over time. Starts to GROW! That's all I need to happen in 6 carbs!

[Jess from VA]

The only place that ever required me to dismount to fill was USMC Camp Pendleton, but it happens.

The safety fanatics and insurance cos, hand-in-hand.