Front Brake Pad Retention (Hanger) Pin Stripped

[Gryphon Rider]

When replacing my front brake pads, I stripped the 5mm hex socket of the brake pad retention pin.  Here's how I got it out:
1. Application and reapplication of penetrating fluid over two days while new pins were shipped to the local dealer.
2. Use Mastercraft Maximum Grabit tool (size #4) to pre-drill (reverse direction) according to Grabit instructions.
3. Caliper heated up by heat gun.
4. Use drill (reversed) with extractor end to imbed extractor in pin head.
5. Use socket and ratchet on Grabit to back out the pin.  This took more force than I thought it would and I was afraid of breaking the Grabit, but it worked!
6. Anti-sieze on new pin's threads before installation.

The Grabit is sold at Canadian Tire in Canada.
The Grabit is sold under the Alden brand in the US. http://www.grabit-pro.com/Pages/grabitPro.php

I came on this method after a Google search and viewing a topic on rhinoforums.net. http://www.rhinoforums.net/suspension/41833-stripped-caliper-pad-pin.html

[gordonv]

Strange seeing Canadian items on the VRCC forum!

Don't forget the Power Fist heat gun, from Princess Auto.

Did you find that the Grabit, digged into the hole, making it grab harder, as you tried to extract?

[Gryphon Rider]

Strange seeing Canadian items on the VRCC forum!

Don't forget the Power Fist heat gun, from Princess Auto.

Did you find that the Grabit, digged into the hole, making it grab harder, as you tried to extract?

Yep, it's not Harbour Freight or Auto Zone up the road from me, it's Crappy Tire, Princess Auto, Busy Bee Tools, and Lee Valley Tools!
The Grabit just dug harder as I turned harder, and no sign of wear on the tool afterwards.

[X Ring]

I bought a similar item at Lowe's here in the States.

Marty

[YoungPUP]

Got my set for the same reason at Lowes as well. Just remember  antiseize when you put the new one in. Wait til you bugger up the slot on the cover for that pin....

[PhredValk]

Lord bless Canadian Tire. I bought one of those (only in the 2 bit size) today after breaking off the head of the upper bolt on the left rear shock. 5 minutes and the stub was out. And I was wearing my Princess Auto ball cap at the time.
Fred.

[JetDriver]

I bought a similar item at Lowe's here in the States.

Marty

Old thread, but do you remember the name of the tool at Lowe's?

[X Ring]

Iirc, it was called the same thing as Gryphon Rider's.  Grabit Screw Remover.

Marty

[Westsider]

Use valve grinding compound on your tool,   and tapp with hammer while trying to loosen,, carefull not to break head off 

[Grumpy]

And most important of all, a little never-seize on the threads when you reassemble. Keep you from having the same thing happen next time.

[JetDriver]

Thanks Marty.

[HayHauler]

I tried those on mine when it was stuck and it stripped out too.  I had to use my impact screw driver to get the plug out after deepening the slit with a hack saw blade. 
Drilled out the pin bolt and anti seized the crap out of the threads going back together.

Hay
Jimmyt

[Skinhead]

If the pin is tight, 1) Hex bit sockets work much better than allen wrenches or hex keys.  2) a few good whacks to the tool prior to loosening (Penetrating oil as well of course), 3) put a set of vise grips on the shaft of the pin (between the brake pads) and turn along with the hex.

Replace the pin if it gets damaged and anti-seize on assembly.

[Oss]

its the SCREW not the pin

and there was a generous amount of anti seize on there

I will try heating it, using a good chisel to try to deepen the slot and see what the result is

also I will try the tap it with a socket manuever suggested by one of the posters

If I ever get the screw out I may not replace it as what the heck can it really do besides piss me off?

[John Schmidt]

Use valve grinding compound on your tool,   and tapp with hammer while trying to loosen,, carefull not to break head off 

OUCH!!! 

Sorry...been a long day.

[John Schmidt]

Re. the pin plug that covers the one you had to replace, there is a method of making your own cover plug. First, get an M6 socket screw/bolt(essentially an allen head bolt). The length is not important because you'll cutting the head off when ready. Next, cut M10x1 threads on just the head. Now saw off the head and file it down smooth where you just cut it. You now have a new cover plug but with an allen (socket) head to replace the slotted one you tore up trying to remove. Apply antiseize as necessary.

I have a picture somewhere and will try to find and post it.

[HayHauler]

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/Techpinplug.html

Here is what John is talking about.  Found it on Dag's site.

Cool idea!

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Ricky-D]

Using a proper and well fitting screwdriver is the most important factor regarding this item.

If you want to thread a socket head screw you should anneal the screw first since most all socket head screws are grade eight and very hard, especially when it comes to applying threads to the head.

The stock OEM plug is the best way to go, just dedicate a screw driver for just that process and be sure to anti seize the threads.

Remember, that plug does not need to be any more than "just snug".

***

[O-B-1]

All I have to say is, "I love you, man!"

I am going through this today. Everything seems to have rusted in place on my bike since I went to Inzane 2015 this summer! Aaaaagh....

Back on topic.... The brake fluid is "jellified" in the caliper cylinders.

I popped my pistons out and it appears the grooves for the seals are actually in the calipers, not in the pistons... I could have sworn that it sais to put the seals in the grooves on the pistons, somewhere. Well, RTFM I guess! 

Need to figure what to clean the entire caliper with, brake cleaner spray? I have bought all the pins, bushings, seals, retainers, etcetera fresh so I won't have to tear into this in another 75,000 miles.

I will be flushing the fluid EACH riding season, also. 

I bought a similar brand of fastener remover, the smallest bit has a manufacturing defect. Not enough threading to grip for screw removal. Discover that when I attempted to use the bit to remove one of the master cylinder cover screws that was stuck. I DID get it out, however. Found rust stains under the aluminum cap on the plastic cover.

Anyway, thank you goes out to those who have gone where no man has gone before and posted their solutions on here. Search works wonders, also.

[Gryphon Rider]

O-B-1,

I'm glad my effort is appreciated.  Whenever I come up with what I think might be a unique solution, or at least one that isn't well documented here, I try to do a clear write-up with relevant pictures and enough search terms in it that people can find it.  I've certainly benefited from the similar efforts of others!

To answer your question, I would certainly use brake cleaner until it doesn't work, then try something else.  I haven't had to do a caliper rebuild yet, so I can't speak from specific experience.

[O-B-1]

I bought CRC brake cleaner, and some other kind of cleaner that says let the parts sit for 12 hours.

I found that a soft brass wire brush and Dove dish soap seemed to work better! Duh...

The right caliper is done. Man, those new rubber bushings & pins with fresh silicone lubricant make the caliper bounce right back! Loving it...

I just hope I can get the old pins out of the left caliper. I had to put the pins in my vice, crank it down as hard as I could, then PB Blaster on the fastener, then heated the caliper and bracket aluminum with a propane torch, then STILL had to put a cedar board between the caliper and a hammer to bust it loose! Been there since 1997, I am guessing. The bike was bought from a gentleman in Michigan with around 5,000 on it. I bought it from my former boss who lived on Vashon Island in the salt air of the Puget Sound. Things are stuck here and there.

[Hook#3287]

I bought it from my former boss who lived on Vashon Island in the salt air of the Puget Sound. Things are stuck here and there

My 98 green & black was purchased from a PO that lived on Long Island, NY.

He would ride around in the the salt air and throw a tarp over her outside, when done.

When I got her home and tore her down to the frame and motor, the caliper hanger pins were the most challenge.   I had to drill one out, not much fun, but I was able to remove it without damage to the caliper.  Also, one front fender bolt got drilled.

Salt air does a number on machines.