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Author Topic: Valkyrie alt. amps?  (Read 3385 times)
Crazy Miles
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Harwich, Massachusetts on Cape Cod


« on: April 16, 2009, 06:33:17 PM »

I forgot, how many amps does our stock alt. put out?  30 -35?  I'm thinking of going all led's to lighten the electric draw  load that I know I'm well over. coolsmiley thanks 
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Valker
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Wahoo!!!!

Texas Panhandle


« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2009, 06:41:57 PM »

It's 545 watts which means 545 divided by 12 volts = 45.4 amps.
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DFragn
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« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2009, 07:46:18 PM »

It's 545 watts which means 545 divided by 12 volts = 45.4 amps.

And, a stock Valkyrie consumes 240 watts of that just to run. Another 150 watts of accessory consumption begins to reflect in voltage drop at idle.

Don't get me wrong. I like LED's but have found them to be useless as turns, brake or driving lights. Because LED's are a focused beam, have no reflectors to increase & spread visibility and quickly loose peripheral view in sunlight. They're better at night, but for a cage driver behind you with less then a square on view your actions become more difficult to recognize at daytime.

I still use an LED run, brake & incorporated amber turns in my rear fender unit. But, only because I have retained  incandescent turns/brake at the license plate mount and I/S trunk. I used Rattlebars I/S trunk turn conversion for additional presence. I also have the GL1800 trunk spoiler with LED brake.

Personally, I'd rather be more conspicuous then LED's generally permit. And, there's a reason they're not DOT approved, very few are DOT approved.

I just removed my OEM front turns that were inverted under my Cobra lightbar because they created impossbile clearance issues with my freshly installed I/S Pods. I went with amber 20 watt halogen units from Adjure as replacements. Them suckers are bright & and are highly visible positioned just an 1 1/2" above the 50 watt white halogen driving lights, also Adjures.
I run a constant accessory load just under 200 watts that drops my alt output to about 13.5 volts at idle (incl. fan). I can switch another 100 watts on and it drops to about 12.5 at idle. At 12 - 1500 rpm I'm back up to 14.2 under both scenarios.

I would use LED's as an addition to my lighting system, but not as a replacement...
« Last Edit: April 16, 2009, 08:02:49 PM by DFragn » Logged
Valker
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Texas Panhandle


« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2009, 08:04:02 PM »

Not sure what you're running, but I have 100 watts of MotoLights, 110 watts of PIAA 510s, 2 LED taillights, 3 blinking LED brake lights, two Gerbings jackets, two pairs of Gerbings gloves, and one pair of Gerbings socks. I've never had a problem in 107,000 miles. That said, I do shut off the PIAAs when approaching a town, and I don't run them in the daylight. Most of my riding is in the daytime, and the jackets aren't needed all that much, the gloves even less, and the socks almost never. The MotoLights are always on. The PIAAs are hooked to the high beams. I also have a Stebel horn which pulls big amps only occasionally. The lights do dim when I hit the horn.
Oh, yeah. All my lights are in addition to the stock Tourer lights.
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2009, 02:39:36 AM »

It's 545 watts which means 545 divided by 12 volts = 45.4 amps.

 I used Rattlebars I/S trunk turn conversion for additional presence.

Just FYI.  I invented the I/S trunk turn conversion, that Chet copied then used his fancy drawing software and reposted it, with some more options.  Without permission.  Yes I'm a bit annoyed as the biggest reason for authoring content is to attract traffic which increases the value of a site - both in actual dollars linked to click links and traffic counts, as well as potential customers for my business who might buy something after visiting my site to read this article - and my content is copyrighted.  When content is copied, whether or not he gives credit - which is posted somewhere on that page, and you missed - it still results in the value being added to his site, and taken away from the author.  Chet knows that. 

Not to mention, you think he authored it.   For his articles, some of which I think are quite good, I posted links to them from my site, rather than stealing them.  As he should have done.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2009, 02:45:12 AM by MarkT » Logged


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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2009, 02:59:25 AM »

Several years ago, when it became clear to me I was overloading my charging system, and I didn't want to stop adding toys - and I was looking for another project to write an article on - I changed to a Compufire 1.3kW alternator.  This one is a Delco actually made for cars, that the Compufire people adapted to the GL1500 with a compatible housing.  I had it rebuilt 3 years later as it didn't seem to be keeping up.  However I was wrong about that, as I've since found that the real problem was corrosion on one end of the fusible link holder. After I found that, I cleaned up the screw connection where the battery wire connected, and added copper connection compound, (also did the other end) then sealed the whole thing with liquid electrical tape - stuff that looks like the liquid rubber you use to dip tool handles in.

The Compufire install took some extra effort, but to me it was worth it.  After several years and around 50,000 miles of use now, I am convinced the install has no bad effects and definitely lets you add electrical toys without worry.  See http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Compufire/compufire.html


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rmrc51
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Freyja. Queen of the Valkyries

Palmyra, Virginia


« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2009, 05:21:09 AM »

Several years ago, when it became clear to me I was overloading my charging system, and I didn't want to stop adding toys - and I was looking for another project to write an article on - I changed to a Compufire 1.3kW alternator.  This one is a Delco actually made for cars, that the Compufire people adapted to the GL1500 with a compatible housing.  I had it rebuilt 3 years later as it didn't seem to be keeping up.  However I was wrong about that, as I've since found that the real problem was corrosion on one end of the fusible link holder. After I found that, I cleaned up the screw connection where the battery wire connected, and added copper connection compound, (also did the other end) then sealed the whole thing with liquid electrical tape - stuff that looks like the liquid rubber you use to dip tool handles in.

The Compufire install took some extra effort, but to me it was worth it.  After several years and around 50,000 miles of use now, I am convinced the install has no bad effects and definitely lets you add electrical toys without worry.  See http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Compufire/compufire.html





Hey Mark,

I noticed in your picture in this post along with the photos in the article, you seem to have the top outboard supporting bolt broken off in the housing.

The reason I mention this is that when I was installing the chrome covers and tried to remove that same bolt, it seems like it was frozen. After loosening and tightening, going back and forth, my bolt also snapped! The alternator seems to still be supported with no issues. I was just wondering is this is a common problem????  Undecided
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Bob E.
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Canonsburg, PA


« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2009, 06:15:26 AM »


Hey Mark,

I noticed in your picture in this post along with the photos in the article, you seem to have the top outboard supporting bolt broken off in the housing.

The reason I mention this is that when I was installing the chrome covers and tried to remove that same bolt, it seems like it was frozen. After loosening and tightening, going back and forth, my bolt also snapped! The alternator seems to still be supported with no issues. I was just wondering is this is a common problem????  Undecided

I don't know about Mark, but I broke that same bolt off last year.  I've been running it that way ever since without problems.  But it does bother me to leave it that way.  One of these days, I'll try and fix it. Undecided
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cutter
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First Company in... Last Company out! VRCCDS0234

Plantersville, Texas


« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2009, 06:46:37 AM »

I had the 2 upper bolts snap off on me after my alt. died the second time.  tickedoff I ended up pulling the motor and replaced the rear cover. Had Honda rebuild the alternator while I did the rest. Needless to say the alt went out again 35 days later...... Angry  Honda didn't get a 3rd try at it. Still using the original alt, let a alternator/starter shop fix it. They found 1 bad diode and bad solder job. Fixed her up for 1/3 the cost of what Honda charged. No problems since.  Grin
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #9 on: April 17, 2009, 09:12:36 AM »

Yeah that bolt snapped off a long time ago.  Wasn't that old either.  And it's not humid here.  I judged trying to fix it could be worse than leaving it alone.  Hasn't created a problem since.  Of course if I knew it was a problem, I could have unscrewed it before it siezed and applied anti-sieze to the threads.  I'm thinking it was over-torqued at the factory, now that I hear it  has broken off for others.

It would be difficult to fix in it's location - can't get even my angle drill in that place, squared with the hole. And the broken stud being steel with the metal around it aluminum - easy to mess it up.  Might result in an oversize hole with a heli-coil.  I'll just leave it along as it's not making a problem.
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DFragn
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« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2009, 03:20:51 PM »

It's 545 watts which means 545 divided by 12 volts = 45.4 amps.

 I used Rattlebars I/S trunk turn conversion for additional presence.

Just FYI.  I invented the I/S trunk turn conversion, that Chet copied then used his fancy drawing software and reposted it, with some more options.  Without permission.  Yes I'm a bit annoyed as the biggest reason for authoring content is to attract traffic which increases the value of a site - both in actual dollars linked to click links and traffic counts, as well as potential customers for my business who might buy something after visiting my site to read this article - and my content is copyrighted.  When content is copied, whether or not he gives credit - which is posted somewhere on that page, and you missed - it still results in the value being added to his site, and taken away from the author.  Chet knows that. 

Not to mention, you think he authored it.   For his articles, some of which I think are quite good, I posted links to them from my site, rather than stealing them.  As he should have done.

It's a little difficult to know who developed what when that happens. That's the site I found it at and considered the site administrator the original author.
Honestly, I understand your feelings, but it doesn't mean a quasi difference to the unknowing. You both have developed some great ideas to share with fellow riders. Maybe if it bothers you you can better protect yourself with copyright's.

I've been developing something myself for several years (non-Valk related) and it's within a few months of first release. I wanted to share it as a Beta version last year. But somehow I knew better! This is something others could swipe right out from under me and I could never afford to battle a large company doing business worldwide, i.e. Intuit. I refuse to even test the waters until I'm fully protected. Yeah, it's a little different, but it's all the same.
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Crazy Miles
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Harwich, Massachusetts on Cape Cod


« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2009, 06:29:28 AM »



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Re: Valkyrie alt. amps?
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2009, 07:46:18 PM »
   Reply with quoteQuote
Quote from: Valker on April 16, 2009, 06:41:57 PM
It's 545 watts which means 545 divided by 12 volts = 45.4 amps.

And, a stock Valkyrie consumes 240 watts of that just to run. Another 150 watts of accessory consumption begins to reflect in voltage drop at idle.    Shocked Shocked Shocked    thanks DFragn  Wow I didn't know. So that being said if 240 watts to run bike and 150 watts to run stock accessories, just how many(estimated) amps or watts would you or I have left on the stock system?  Or maybe I misunderstood your point.   So, basic , what I have is a tourer with I/State trunk
both lites wired for running (always on) with the one lite serving as a brake lite also. Thats trunk only. I converted the rear signals to- run/signal - by using a set of stock front -turn/running.  2 spot lites @ 55 watts each.  We both have full electric suit Gerbling.  However when I hook up the trailer it causes my amp meter to run in the upper 12 volt? trialer has 3 double contact bulbs (1157)  I think I must be over the limit?  Roll Eyes  Thanks to all for your answers
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R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #12 on: April 18, 2009, 07:10:42 AM »

To help alleviate some of your draw, get rid of the 3 taillights on the trailer and convert em to LED's.......   None of my trailers had anything but LED's after they hit the market..........

Love em also for their brightness..........

Here is MGM's brake light.



Note the reflection in the tractor seat.   Yup, it is bright.  It will get your attention when the brake is applied.......
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MarkT
Member
*****
Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


WWW
« Reply #13 on: April 18, 2009, 11:14:37 AM »

It's 545 watts which means 545 divided by 12 volts = 45.4 amps.

 I used Rattlebars I/S trunk turn conversion for additional presence.

Just FYI.  I invented the I/S trunk turn conversion, that Chet copied then used his fancy drawing software and reposted it, with some more options.  Without permission.  Yes I'm a bit annoyed as the biggest reason for authoring content is to attract traffic which increases the value of a site - both in actual dollars linked to click links and traffic counts, as well as potential customers for my business who might buy something after visiting my site to read this article - and my content is copyrighted.  When content is copied, whether or not he gives credit - which is posted somewhere on that page, and you missed - it still results in the value being added to his site, and taken away from the author.  Chet knows that. 

Not to mention, you think he authored it.   For his articles, some of which I think are quite good, I posted links to them from my site, rather than stealing them.  As he should have done.

It's a little difficult to know who developed what when that happens. That's the site I found it at and considered the site administrator the original author.
Honestly, I understand your feelings, but it doesn't mean a quasi difference to the unknowing. You both have developed some great ideas to share with fellow riders. Maybe if it bothers you you can better protect yourself with copyright's.

I've been developing something myself for several years (non-Valk related) and it's within a few months of first release. I wanted to share it as a Beta version last year. But somehow I knew better! This is something others could swipe right out from under me and I could never afford to battle a large company doing business worldwide, i.e. Intuit. I refuse to even test the waters until I'm fully protected. Yeah, it's a little different, but it's all the same.

As I said - my content IS copyrighted.  Copyright is provided just by putting the statement of it on the work, with the date and your name.  I researched into that, back when I was a photographer.  Doesn't mean much, if someone doesn't want to respect it, and you don't want to litigate them.  Though enforcing copyright infringement is much easier and less expensive than patent infringement. Speaking of that, don't assume you are protected from Intuit, or Microsoft, or any other well heeled company who likes your idea, just because you paid for legal intellectual property ownership documentation.  Owning the rights and enforcing them are two very different things.  It's the one with the most money that wins.  I went to my legal firm that I had paid $10,000 to for my Trombone patent, when I found two dutch companies infringing on it, and said "OK, boys, SIC 'EM!"  They said "Sure, be glad to.  Just write us a retainer check for $250,000 and we're good to go."  And here I thought it was a slam dunk - especially after they had implied it would be while they were collecting my money while creating the patent all along.   Is there any question why lawyers are so hated.  Man, I can tell you about this firm, you wouldn't believe their gall.  Don't get me started...
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
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