Walküre
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Posts: 1270
Nothing beats a 6-pack!
Oxford, Indiana
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« on: May 12, 2011, 09:42:29 PM » |
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I have a few questions - one is on the petcock. I am NOT going to entertain the notion of a Pingel, regardless of how many people are happy with them. I tend to be forgetful, and I'll forget to turn off the Pingel, just as I would the stock. I really don't mind doing the stock rooster, even yearly if need be. That being said, I have seen several posts about repair kits. I have seen the kits from K&L, or something like that, for around $20. I have also seen the "cover set" from HDL, for around $28. I would like to know the difference between the two - is the repair kit, just the stuff inside the "cover set", gaskets, diaphragm, etc? Or is it something else entirely? I also assume I need to get the screen and o-ring, since I'm going through the petcock. I guess I'm asking, should I get the cover set, or the repair kit? And what's the advantage of either one? My other question is, I now have my Interstate tank (thanks to Gordon V!), with the sender unit for my standard. I am going to get a Motosen fuel gauge, as I like the looks, and ease of install. I am torn between getting two, or three gauges. I like the looks of both those setups, that are on Motosen's website. But, I'm torn between which gauges to get, if I go two or three (one is the fuel gauge) - my first thought is two gauges, with a voltmeter being the 2nd gauge. Or, voltmeter and oil pressure, if I go three gauges. If you were going to have one or two gauges, other than the fuel gauge, which would YOU choose? I'd really like to go with all of them, but financially, three is about my limit, plus, the "dash" seems to get pretty busy, with more than 3 gauges (although 5 doesn't seem TOO awful bad, 3 in the center, two outboard). Just looking for opinions, here, on what you think are the most important gauges to have, in order of importance...   Just two in the center with this setup, but I like 3 in the center with the two outside:  Thanks, Roger
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2000 Valkyrie Standard 1999 Valkyrie Interstate 2000 HD Dyna Wide Glide FXDWGRoger Phillips Oxford, IN VRCC #31978 Yeah, what she said...
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PhredValk
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« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2011, 10:58:28 PM » |
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Personally, volt meter and engine temp. Oil pressure would be useless to me, and if it got too low, the temp guage would reflect it pretty fast. Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional. VRCCDS0237
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Redline +
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2011, 11:06:17 PM » |
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Gauges, in order of importance, oil pressure, water temp, volt meter, fuel, oil temp, clock...I prefer the look of just the two additional gauges. YMMV. Redline 
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Redline +
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2011, 11:23:28 PM » |
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Oil pressure would be useless to me, and if it got too low, the temp guage would reflect it pretty fast. Fred.
Good luck with that thinking Fred. If run low on oil the rod and main bearings, crankshaft, camshafts and cam bearing surfaces all will be toast long before you see any rise in coolant temp. Redline
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2011, 12:06:04 AM » |
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From my peanut gallery, VOLT GUAGE first, then oil press, and last water temp. The only time my valk has left me walking was because of an alt. dying without warning. On my interstate the first warning I got was the dash panel, tach and radio quit an then it was too late as the bike died shortly there after.
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olddog1946
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« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2011, 12:09:02 AM » |
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I personally like the 3 in the center set up...with the clock, volts and temp...not sure in my own mind how having an oil pressure gauge is going to help you..low oil pressure isn't something you can do anything about without dismantling the motor..I always check the oil, and tire pressure before every ride..but seldom check coolant level...just my own thoughts on the subject.
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VRCC # 32473 US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988 01 Valk Std. 02 BMW k1200LTE 65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd Moses Lake, Wa. 509-760-6382 if you need help
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Walküre
Member
    
Posts: 1270
Nothing beats a 6-pack!
Oxford, Indiana
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2011, 12:40:48 AM » |
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Oil pressure would be useless to me, and if it got too low, the temp guage would reflect it pretty fast. Fred.
Good luck with that thinking Fred. If run low on oil the rod and main bearings, crankshaft, camshafts and cam bearing surfaces all will be toast long before you see any rise in coolant temp. Redline it has been my 40 years of experience, that commonly, other than running extremely low on oil (as was mentioned, now that I read it again), the oil giving up is due to overheating, usually because of a busted radiator, hose, or similar. The heat causes the viscosity of the oil to thin out and break down, causing bearings to wash out, etc. I would MUCH rather have a coolant temp gauge, over an oil pressure gauge, if I could only have one, in a car. But, having had coolant problems on GoldWings, I know that if you are getting hot coolant, you'll definitely know it, LONG before you'd have any oil problems, and I am assuming, possibly mistakenly, the same on the Valk. Big difference, sitting on top of the motor, as opposed to having it under the hood, which is why I would opt for an oil pressure gauge over a temp gauge. But, it's a toss up between the two, on a Valk, IMO. But, OldDog makes a very good point, and I'd probably lean towards the water temp, after reading his reasoning. Again, just my experience, but LOT'S of it. R
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« Last Edit: May 13, 2011, 12:45:56 AM by Walküre »
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2000 Valkyrie Standard 1999 Valkyrie Interstate 2000 HD Dyna Wide Glide FXDWGRoger Phillips Oxford, IN VRCC #31978 Yeah, what she said...
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valkyriemc
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Posts: 392
2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited
NE Florida
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« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2011, 01:42:51 AM » |
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"I have a few questions - one is on the petcock. I am NOT going to entertain the notion of a Pingel, regardless of how many people are happy with them. I tend to be forgetful, and I'll forget to turn off the Pingel, just as I would the stock." Are you aware of this Pingel model? http://www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_1311_vacuum.htmThe reason I chose this model was I can forget to turn it off too, its rare but it happens. Somebody made the remark that they would like to hear how these valves were doing in 15 years? At 60 I'll be real happy if I'm still around at 75, let alone still riding a motorcycle. What ever you choose to do good luck!
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« Last Edit: May 13, 2011, 01:46:08 AM by valkyriemc »
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Veteran USN '70-'76
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Disco
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Posts: 4902
Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject
Republic of Texas
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« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2011, 07:36:21 AM » |
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+1 on the OEM v Pingel. I have five Motosens gauges. Oil Pressure on the far left, Oil Temp and Water Temp centered, and Volt Meter on the far right. The clock is top center. I planned the center gauges (for vertical-only eye movement) to be the Oil & Water Temp gauges thinking I would like to check them most often. And, if one or the other went haywire, I could quickly think OW! After riding with them for a while, if I were to do a two gauge setup, I would do Water Temp and Volt Meter. It is very comforting to know the fans come on at about 210 and that the alternator is pushing 14 volts. The clock is pure bling. The Oil Pressure gauge is neat and fun to monitor as temp and rpm change. The Oil Temp lags the Water Temp, and only in congested stop and go traffic does it get to 175. The folks at Systron were great to work with. My order got here faster than expected. The kit is top-notch. And, they all fit underneath my Memphis Shades batwing. The clock and voltmeter were easiest. The oil gauges were more involved, but not difficult. The water temp sensor was a real PITA to get started because I didn't drop the RH exhaust. I found this site to be very helpful as I performed the installation. http://www.valkyrieguy.com/motosens.htm
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike 22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT 78 CB550K 71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper .jpg) VRCC 27,916 IBA 44,783
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2011, 07:52:28 AM » |
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From my peanut gallery, VOLT GUAGE first, then oil press, and last water temp. The only time my valk has left me walking was because of an alt. dying without warning. On my interstate the first warning I got was the dash panel, tach and radio quit an then it was too late as the bike died shortly there after.
I'm sitting in Mr.Bubbles' peanut gallery. Since we are not talking cars or comparing cars to motorcycles, in order of importance, I'll vote for the voltage guage. The Valkyrie being as bullet proof as it is, leaves one weak point and that is the alternator. Everything else gives a warning before going out. Congrats on keeping the OEM petcock, there is nothing wrong with these. The gripes are just that, I know of Valkries that have had not problems for all the years of there existance, including mine.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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Redline +
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« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2011, 10:18:38 AM » |
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...not sure in my own mind how having an oil pressure gauge is going to help you..low oil pressure isn't something you can do anything about...
Well...if you were to notice a sudden drop in oil pressure you could shut off the engine before you destroy it. For the past 40 years I've been getting paid because people don't. I see the damage everyday, this puts the oil pressure gauge high on my list. That being said, the F6 generally doesn't leak or burn oil, you dump in 4 quarts and it stays there until you drain it. However, things can happen, what if some road debris punctured your oil filter, would you notice? Would you notice the little idiot light in the bright sunlight? I have no additional gauges on my Valk...but if I did... YMMV Redline
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15261
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2011, 10:23:19 AM » |
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Here's my setup, installed them about 6-7 years ago and have given me no trouble. The center is my fuel gauge and was the first one installed nearly 8yrs. ago due to getting an I/S tank. I followed that with a temp gauge on the left and oil pressure on the right. I never liked the idiot lights in cars, like them even less on bikes. Forgot to mention....the small gauges are Autometer C-2 series, the fuel gauge is programmable to work with the Honda sending unit. I understand the others mentioned here are also programmable. As for petcocks, granted there are "some" that have gone the distance. They appear to be in the minority. About three years ago when my OEM petcock went south, I installed the manual Pingel version in conjunction with an inline filter and electric shutoff. I decided against the vacuum operated Pingel simply because I didn't want a vacuum line after desmogging. Overall, Pingel products have proven to be more reliable much longer than the Valkyrie petcock has been in existence. 
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« Last Edit: May 13, 2011, 10:37:56 AM by John Schmidt »
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Trynt
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« Reply #12 on: May 13, 2011, 11:58:18 AM » |
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"I have a few questions - one is on the petcock. I am NOT going to entertain the notion of a Pingel, regardless of how many people are happy with them. I tend to be forgetful, and I'll forget to turn off the Pingel, just as I would the stock." Are you aware of this Pingel model? http://www.pingelonline.com/powerflo_1311_vacuum.htmThe reason I chose this model was I can forget to turn it off too, its rare but it happens. +1 I also have the vacuum Pingel. I turn it on in the Spring and off the end of Fall. 
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Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2011, 01:30:41 PM » |
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...what if some road debris punctured your oil filter, would you notice?
Yes. Yes you would. Immediately. And you'd taste it for weeks afterward. I recommend Castroil for its delicate, yet robust taste and superior and lasting "recreational lube" properties when applied in this manner. The "hot spray" method is preferred by ALL serious lube aficionados.  On the petcock kit, I've not seen the aftermarket kit so I can't comment on it's quality/completeness. The OEM kit includes the "cover" as there is a dampener in it that reduces vacuum "shock" or pulsing on the diaphragm. I check the OEM petcock for proper operation and leakdown every time I change the air filter, and keep a kit on hand. I think I've rebuilt mine 4 times in 140,000 miles.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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2qmedic
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« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2011, 07:07:46 PM » |
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Personally, I think the most important gauge would be the outside air temperature gauge so that I would know if I was too hot or cold!!! LOL  (just couldn't resist)
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2011, 07:51:11 PM » |
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Personally, I think the most important gauge would be the outside air temperature gauge so that I would know if I was too hot or cold!!! LOL  (just couldn't resist)  Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers. 
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2011, 09:35:52 PM » |
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Since you are taking a poll:
A. For peace of mind and alert before breakdown: 1. Volt meter 2. Coolant Temp
B. For my curiosity and convenience: 3. Clock 4. Thermometer 5. Vacuum
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RP#62
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« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2011, 07:23:11 AM » |
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When I first had the need/desire for additional gages, there wasn't much available to my liking, so I ended up building most of mine. I wanted the extra information, but I didn't want the cockpit to look cluttered. I built digital "chin mount" gages for voltage and temperature. In the pic below, voltage to the left, coolant/outside air temp to the right. I made it so you can toggle between coolant and outside air temp. The clock I got at the mall. Its a Dakota watch co model designed for hikers - I liked it because the face matched the other gages and it had mounting screws for a belt clip that made it easy to attach to a bracket.  For oil temp, since I already had the TBR "candy thermometer" dipstick replacement, I decided to locate an oil pressure gage next to it. I machined a bracket to pick up on one of the cam end cover screws and ordered a gage from J&P. I machined a "T" to screw into the engine that would accomodate the stock sending unit (metric) and a 1/8 NPT nipple, then plumbed it back to the gage.   Now, having had this setup for several years, I'd say the gages I look at the most are voltage, outside air temp, oil temp. I occasionally look at oil pressure (usually on start up and when idling) and coolant temp. The funny thing about the air/coolant temp, I have it set up so that a toggle switch triggers a DPDT relay to switch between sensors. The coolant temp sensor is on the NC terminals because I thought that I'd be looking at it more than air temp, but I found that not to be the case. I'm always interested in outside air temp, while I just occasionally check coolant temp, usually if stopped or I hear the fan kick on. -RP
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Walküre
Member
    
Posts: 1270
Nothing beats a 6-pack!
Oxford, Indiana
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« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2011, 04:40:32 PM » |
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Yes. Yes you would. Immediately. And you'd taste it for weeks afterward. I recommend Castroil for its delicate, yet robust taste and superior and lasting "recreational lube" properties when applied in this manner. The "hot spray" method is preferred by ALL serious lube aficionados.  Actually, the early biplanes, WWI and before, used Castor Oil for their lubricant. And the fumes did exactly the same thing - MANY a pilot pooped their pants, and the ones that didn't, bee-lined to the head, upon landing. True story... On the petcock kit, I've not seen the aftermarket kit so I can't comment on it's quality/completeness.
The OEM kit includes the "cover" as there is a dampener in it that reduces vacuum "shock" or pulsing on the diaphragm.
I check the OEM petcock for proper operation and leakdown every time I change the air filter, and keep a kit on hand. I think I've rebuilt mine 4 times in 140,000 miles.
So, Daniel, since you have no knowledge of the kits, I assume you always order the cover kit? If so, that's good enough for me - it's not much more, and KNOWING it's correct, makes the few bucks negligible. As for gauges, my first post indicated that I would at least have a voltmeter, and the fuel gauge. I like the rest of the ideas, thanks. I like your, RP, but I only have a lathe - no mill, although WOULD be nice - don't think I can convince mom that it's a "necessity", though. Great work! Thanks again, to all - helps make my decision making a lot easier.
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2000 Valkyrie Standard 1999 Valkyrie Interstate 2000 HD Dyna Wide Glide FXDWGRoger Phillips Oxford, IN VRCC #31978 Yeah, what she said...
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