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Author Topic: VICTORY!! Or pretty close, anyway....  (Read 2264 times)
Paladin
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Texas


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« on: May 19, 2011, 01:36:42 PM »

Thanks to everyone who had the patience to offer advice and answer my questions here over the last couple of weeks in regards to my Valkyrie Carburetor rebuild project. I got sidetracked a couple of times by a vacation trip and a bout with an angry kidneystone....

How ironic is that? My work on the Valkyrie "plumbing" was delayed while I had to go to the hospital and deal with my own "plumbing" Smiley

Anyway, I finally got everything back together and she fired right up! A little smoke on the first start, cuz she's been sitting for a while and I pre-lubed the cylinders after the hydrolock near miss. I rebuilt the entire carb rack this time, replacing the jets. Also did away with the OEM petcock (grrrrrr...) and went with a Pingle non-vac.

My tags and inspection are expired, so I couldn't hit the highway but I took a zip around the neighborhood and she responds well - at least at those speeds. The only hang up that I have now is a popping from the exhaust. Is most noticeable at idle - though it does it under throttle too. I'm going to try and post a video here of the second time I started her after rebuild, and if it works you'll be able to hear the pop that I'm talking about. Pop seems to be coming from the right side exhaust. Stops when I pull the #5 plug wire. I checked the exhaust pipe bolts for that manifold and they are tight. Also replaced all the sparkplugs to eliminate fouled plugs from the equation. The vacuum cap looked fine on #5, but I replaced it anyway.

valk start after carb rebuild.mpgpowered by Aeva


I'm thinking its either pilot screw adjustment for that carb that needs tweaking, or maybe I don't have the airbox hose on the intake side sufficiently on. They are a bitch to connect when you only have two hands and need three of four Smiley I'll pull the tank back off and reconnect the airbox boots when I've got somone around to help me push them down all the way.

What do you guys think?
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2011, 01:56:54 PM »

I bought a radiator hose removal tool to help insure the tubes are on the carbs correctly.  It look lkie a big awl with a screwdriver handle and the tip bent 90*.  Slip it under the tube and run it around to the back then repeat on the ofther side.  Helps me make sure the tube hasn't caught the edge of the carb and folded under.

Marty
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9Ball
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South Jersey


« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2011, 02:29:54 PM »

you've got an air leak somewhere for the popping....probably the top of the carb to the airbox connection.
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Steve K (IA)
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa


« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2011, 07:08:20 PM »

I bought a radiator hose removal tool to help insure the tubes are on the carbs correctly.  It look lkie a big awl with a screwdriver handle and the tip bent 90*.  Slip it under the tube and run it around to the back then repeat on the ofther side.  Helps me make sure the tube hasn't caught the edge of the carb and folded under.

Marty

A "mirror on a stick" and a flashlight comes in handy also for that job.
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Paladin
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Texas


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« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2011, 10:24:45 AM »

Ok... so last night I had both time, and a helper, all at once. I removed the gas tank, removed the cover to the airbox, removed the air filter element, and loosened the clamps to the intakes. I did not remove the airbox.

I had my helper push down a little on the top of the airbox so that I could use both hands to make the connections to the intakes. Worked great. Got them all fully seated and tightened the clamps. I put everything back on the bike, making sure there wasn't a kink in the tank vent hose. Jumped the bike battery to my not-running truck battery, turned on the pingel, put the choke full on....

And she wouldn't start. I tried her several times with no luck. Turned over but wouldn't catch and run. I opened the carb drains one at a time to ensure gas was getting to the carbs and it is. Tried her off and on this morning, and eventually started fiddling with the idle adjustment. Tried turning it right several turns, then left several turns. I finally found a "range" of idle adjustment that would allow me to start the bike and run it. It chugs along at a very low idle. If I have the choke anywhere but fully on she dies. If I touch the throttle she dies. If I turn the idle adjustment screw too much in either direction she dies.

On the bright side, I appear to have solved my exhaust pop Smiley 

Any ideas what the hell the problem is now? She was running perfect (aside from the exaust pop) before I reattached the airbox connections to the intakes. I'm so friggin' close this is driving me NUTS!!
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2011, 10:43:37 AM »

How long did it sit cause it sounds like your slow speed jets are plugged.  Happened to my I/S after it sat 2 weeks with a dose of bad ethanol and those are the same symptoms I had.  Took it to Warlock's yesterday and we changed the slow speed jets to 38s and desmogged it.  Runs like a dog on fire now.

Marty
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Paladin
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Texas


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« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2011, 12:55:36 PM »

How long did it sit cause it sounds like your slow speed jets are plugged.  Happened to my I/S after it sat 2 weeks with a dose of bad ethanol and those are the same symptoms I had.  Took it to Warlock's yesterday and we changed the slow speed jets to 38s and desmogged it.  Runs like a dog on fire now.

Marty

Complete Carb rebuild with new jets a couple of weeks ago. Hard to believe they would clog in that short a period. I've got fresh gas in the tank with no seafoam, techron, or nuthin'.

I'm thinking its a carb adjustment issue? She ran fine except for the exhaust popping before, with the airbox hoses not secure on the intakes. Now, getting the (presumably) right amount of air she's giving me problems. Tinkered with her some more this afternoon and when I turn the idle adjustment screw all the way to the right, I can get her to run without the choke on. Still wanted to die if I turned the throttle, but after inching along with it for a while she'll rev up when I turn the throttle now. Sits at idle now about 1000 rpm with the choke off and the idle adjustment screw all the way in.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2011, 01:02:14 PM »

When reinstalling it, get it in position and get the rubber connectors started on the carb necks. Install the filter and the lid. Get a piece of 2x4 at least a few inches long...I have a scrap about 5" long I use. Place it on the lid of the airbox, get a ratchet type tie down strap and hook the ends on the horizontal section of the engine guard. That's the part that goes back under the engine and bolts to the frame. Ratchet the strap down and it will pull the airbox down into place. Leave it pulled down until you make certain all the rubber connectors are properly seated on the carbs, screw in the bolt at the back end of the airbox, then go around and tighten all the hose clamps. When all is tight, release the strap and the airbox won't move.
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2011, 05:44:39 PM »

Complete Carb rebuild with new jets a couple of weeks ago. Hard to believe they would clog in that short a period. I've got fresh gas in the tank with no seafoam, techron, or nuthin[/quote]

I agree with X-ring. Ethanol can clog slow jets up in less than 2 weeks. I use Marine Stabil every time I fill up, unless I'm going to run the tank out that day. The stuff works very well and although it's not cheap, it's less expensive than dealing with clogged or semi-clogged slows continually. Techron and Seafoam aren't cheap either.
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X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2011, 09:10:32 PM »

Another issue with Seafoam is that it's primary ingredient is isopropyl alcohol.  So you're adding more alcohol to the alcohol already in the ethanol.

Marty
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fordmano
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San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05

San Jose, CA.


« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2011, 09:17:24 PM »

How long did it sit cause it sounds like your slow speed jets are plugged.  Happened to my I/S after it sat 2 weeks with a dose of bad ethanol and those are the same symptoms I had.  Took it to Warlock's yesterday and we changed the slow speed jets to 38s and desmogged it.  Runs like a dog on fire now.

Marty

Complete Carb rebuild with new jets a couple of weeks ago. Hard to believe they would clog in that short a period. I've got fresh gas in the tank with no seafoam, techron, or nuthin'.

I'm thinking its a carb adjustment issue? She ran fine except for the exhaust popping before, with the airbox hoses not secure on the intakes. Now, getting the (presumably) right amount of air she's giving me problems. Tinkered with her some more this afternoon and when I turn the idle adjustment screw all the way to the right, I can get her to run without the choke on. Still wanted to die if I turned the throttle, but after inching along with it for a while she'll rev up when I turn the throttle now. Sits at idle now about 1000 rpm with the choke off and the idle adjustment screw all the way in.

Brother I know your pain, got my new jets (another new set) today and will hopefully get them in over this weekend.  I won't pull them out completly or that damn air box unless I break the body of a carb and have to seperate the entire rack again.  I just don't know how so many people have so much good luck when pulling and reintalling those damn carbs and that EVIL air box...

Good luck too ya.
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Westsider
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Fort Worth TX.


« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2011, 07:22:04 AM »

hey- did you clean the pilot circuits reallly really good when you overhauled the carbs,,and use new orings on the pilot needles?? they are pretty much your main adjustment to do on the carb. sprayclean/ and blow out with air compressor with rubber tip,repeat,repeat,repeat,repeat,-- those orings are super tiny and very important... cooldude cooldude
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2011, 08:21:00 AM »

The Valkyrie motor can run with no airbox installed!

So all the chatter about a loose airbox hose is just that! Chatter.

The important connection is the one between each carburetor and it's intake riser. That needs to be correct and tight so no air can intrude.

It sounds like you lost a lot of adjustment when you redid the carburetor bank.

Most times a mechanical adjustment prior to reinstalling the carburetors will get in the "ballpark" where the motor will run pretty good and then a synchronization for the final touch.

I agree that two weeks isn't long enough for the gasoline to mess up the jets, especially if it's fresh gasoline in the tank.

Since you changed the petcock out there may be a chance you could have passed some crud through the gas lines but I certainly don't think it would affect all six carburetors.

Having to turn the idle screw all the way to get the motor to idle might indicated that the linkages between the carburetors has been disturbed to a greater extent than what you think but it also can indicate a badly synchronized carburetor assembly.

As long as you now can get it to idle, and the motor idles down properly I think you are on the way to getting it "right" and a synchronization should be the very next thing to do.

Ought to get that popping issue cleared up also. It's usually a loafing cylinder that does that mostly. The synchronization should take care of that too!

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