Fork advice

[Fudd]

I have a '98 tourier with about 30k miles.  I wouldn't even call it a ooze, but bike has left a film of oil occasionally on the left fork.  It has actually dripped once that I know of.   Maybe 1 oz at most while on the jack  when I was servicing the rear end.

I have plans to change the seal next winter, and maybe install progressive springs while I'm in there.


I'm wondering what damage may accure or adverse handling characteristics can be expected if the fork runs low of oil.

The left fork is the "rebound dampener....correct?

Is there a short cut to adding fluid.  I don't have a guage with a cylinder and adjustable stop, but I guess I can get one if that's what y'all recommend.  It wouldn't bother me to top it off a couple of times to get me to this winter.

How about some instructions where you don't have to take half the bike apart to change the seals?  I'm thinking Clymer has me doing too much unnecessary disassembling.  I haven't read the shop manual PDF yet, I'm about to.

Any help or ideas are appreciated

[Steve K (IA)]

One oz. of oil would make a pretty large puddle on the floor.  You should be OK until you can get the seals changed.  You might try slipping a 35mm film negative up under the dust seal and get it about 1 1/2 inches up there so it gets beyond the oil seal and work it around.  There might be a piece of crud between the oil seal and the tube that is causing the leak.

[Valker]

My right fork leaked for two years. No problem except for the mess.

[Fudd]

Hey Valker,

Did you top it off ocasionally or just let it bleed for two years?

That "one oz" left a spot on the concrete maybe 2 inches in diameter.  The fork was stretched out all day while on a lift.

I'll try not to pop too many wheelies.  Seems to only leak when fork is fully extended.

[Valker]

Let it bleed with a red shop rag wrapped around the leg. I started calling that fork leg the Exxon Valdez.

[F6Dave]

I've replaced 3 fork seals on my 2 Valks in over 200K combined miles.  One additional time the film trick worked.  The leaks were never that bad so I usually waited until a tire change was necesasary.  The seals usually last a long time, thanks in large part to the chrome shields in front of the sliders.

The manuals (both Honda and Clymer) make the job way too complicated.  You don't need to completely tear the fork down, in fact you can change the seal with the fork still on the bike.  There was a post on the old VRCC board describing the process.  I saved a PDF of it if you need it.

[Fudd]

Hey F6Dave

That's just what I need

dpmiley58(remove)@hotmail.com

Thanks,

[Fudd]

So I still have the question:  Should I bother to refill and maintain the fork oil level, and what are the potential consequences if I don't?

[Valker]

So I still have the question:  Should I bother to refill and maintain the fork oil level, and what are the potential consequences if I don't?

I say not till after riding season, but wrap it to keep oil off the brakes disk on that side. Negative consequences have been minimal to me.

[tarheel-one]

A shop rag around the fork may prevent the fork oil from contaminating your front brake pads.

[Sigrún]

A shop rag around the fork may prevent the fork oil from contaminating your front brake pads.

Ditto. By the time I got around to replace my seal finally, the brake pads on the left side had about the consistency of an overcooked brownie..... 

[Steve K (IA)]

So I still have the question:  Should I bother to refill and maintain the fork oil level, and what are the potential consequences if I don't?

No.  It won't leak enough to cause a problem or be noticeable (handling).  Unless, it starts making a huge mess on the front of the engine while riding down the road...well, then I'd fix it at that point.

[F6Dave]

Fudd, Sorry I didn't get on the board yesterday.  The fork seal PDF is in your email.

[offroadchevy806]

Hi, i was wondering if i could het a copy of that PDF on fork seals. Mine has been leakinf for about 3 months now. I could live with it but i am tired of the oil on my garage floor and the oil on my rim catching all of the dirt out here in west texas.

[PhredValk]

PDF file sent. Have fun!
Fred.

[VegasF6]

Hey anyway I can get a copy of that PDF file? Seals are shot.

[Flat6Valk]

I sure could use that fork seal pdf as well.  todaysbuilder@yahoo.com.

Thanks in advance.

Greg

[bigfeet]

i do need that pdf as well . im currently using the red rag redneck repair at this time.oddly enough that was the first thing i thought of doing !!!!  LMAO!      klranchman@yahoo.com  i would greatly appriciate it. mr.f6dave

[bigfeet]

can you resend that pdf. puter crashed and i lost it.  thanks in advance "again"  sorry im just a little rattle brained.  i should have printed it immidiately.

[RonW]

North Star Riders.com has a 4-part video series on replacing VTX 1800 Fork Seals and I believe the person in the video does the replacement without the 'special tool' ($45) to remove the inner bolt in the LEFT FORK, to boot. My own suggestion is buy yourself a manual. Plenty of info in those to make it worth the paper it's written on. Torque specs for one. What happens when you want to fix your rear drive, is the plan to request a PDF for that, and when you pull the pistons outta engine, another PDF. Tips or solutions for snags, that I can see. [Edit] Video was not my find. It was already submitted by a forum member on a previous thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXZPzQqfAXc&feature=player_embedded

[Fudd]

I just went to youtube and watched all 4 of the North Star Riders videos on changing fork seals.  It looked like easy to follow instructions.  He covered a few things that made sense to me that I had not read in any other repair guides.