Just got done replaceing my speakers....

[shortleg]

  Just got done replaceing my speakers on my IS.
I used the Polk DB501s and followed this Link.
http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t220/wixthedog/Front%20Speaker%20Upgrade/?action=view&current=Step12.jpg
   It workd like a charm.
       Shortleg[Dave]

[Steve K (IA)]

Dave,
So how does it sound?  What was in there before?  Anything other than the stock speakers is an upgrade.  I replaced mine about 7 years ago with a pair of Alpines...later added a hefty 240 watt amp from Electrical Connections.  Doesn't sound too bad, can hear it fine with volume set at "7" with Mark T exhaust.  But I know it could be better.  Those Polk speakers aren't very expensive, so it wouldn't be that bad a gamble to swap out what I have.

I have been running mine without the enclosures.  Thought it sounded better.  I covered the inside of the fairing and the back sides of the speaker panels with DynaMat.  You can "knock" on the fairing and it sounds solid as a rock, not empty and hollow.  I came across the enclosures last summer and for fun put them on and went for a ride.  Came home and removed them.

That link you posted looks like you need the enclosures to hold the speakers in place.  Is that correct?  Or could you just use some washers large enough to capture the corners of the speakers?

[shortleg]

  Think you could use the washers on
the corners
        Shortleg[Dave]

[valkyriemc]

The original spkrs in the I/S were of 3 ohm impedance, an odd number to me, but matching the output of the OEM final amplifier. Your replacements are the common 4 ohm type, normally encountered. Did you notice any variance in performance? I'm assuming that since you still have them in, your happy with them?

[Steve K (IA)]

The original spkrs in the I/S were of 3 ohm impedance, an odd number to me, but matching the output of the OEM final amplifier. Your replacements are the common 4 ohm type, normally encountered. Did you notice any variance in performance? I'm assuming that since you still have them in, your happy with them?

Yes, very happy.  But there is always room for improvement.  That's why I am thinking of changing out the speakers again.

The guys at EC know a little about this stuff. 

From their site........We have been involved in car audio in one way or another since 1985.  Beginner, installer, competitor, etc.  Through these years, we have spent more money than we care to think about finding out what works, what does not, and how to overcome the most basic problems.  What we offer here is based on experience and hands on installations.

Our amplifier kits take the guess work out of adding an amp to your motorcycle's audio system.  We have hand selected the components in our kits for performance, size and quality.  Since we know what you are going to need when you take the bike apart, you will find that virtually everything is included in your kit - until this cloning thing is perfected, you won't find an installer in the box however.

[Jeff K]

I went the other route with my amp.
It's been there for about 5 years now, and still works fine.
Ignore the mass of wires for my added goodies. I mounted relays and fuse blocks for fans, lights, horn, Acc, and my A/F gauge, under there too.

[Steve K (IA)]

I went the other route with my amp.
It's been there for about 5 years now, and still works fine.
Ignore the mass of wires for my added goodies. I mounted relays and fuse blocks for fans, lights, horn, Acc, and my A/F gauge, under there too.

I thought about standing mine up like that but for some reason didn't think it would fit.  Now...if I ever get around to installing my cruise control, I'm not sure if there will be room for the servo in the fairing.    Oh well, been using a throttle lock for so long now.......

[Jeff K]

I went the other route with my amp.
It's been there for about 5 years now, and still works fine.
Ignore the mass of wires for my added goodies. I mounted relays and fuse blocks for fans, lights, horn, Acc, and my A/F gauge, under there too.

I thought about standing mine up like that but for some reason didn't think it would fit.  Now...if I ever get around to installing my cruise control, I'm not sure if there will be room for the servo in the fairing.    Oh well, been using a throttle lock for so long now.......

I just got done installing my VTX-treme 4 degree trees, and spent a few nights rewiring, and tidying up that mess. A few things had been deleted, and a few more added. But its much better now.

[PhredValk]

Steve K; I doubt you'ld want to put the servo part of the cruise in the faring. This leads to a plastic tube and cable connection to your carbs. I can see putting electrical connections from the bike to the faring, but a moving cable might not work well. The constant twisting of the cable guide with steering the bike might lead to problems.

I can see using the manual/toolkit bay behind the battery, or the space in front of the battery in the engine hanger area (if it will fit, that's what I will try first). Leaves the faring open for relays, fuse panels and amplifiers.
Fred.

[fordmano]

Nah, it should be fine. your throttle cables and your Choke cable run from the bars through the forks and risers area into the fairing are and back to the carb rack without any problems.


The servo and a full size amp will fit, ask me how I know?


Trust me it ain't much fun doing this part but it will work. The hardest part was getting the cruise control servo cable to not point to far forward and cause problems bumping the headlight bucket. The wiring for the amp was fun with trying to do most of the wiring not being able to see the connections for the wires since my amp is installed sort of upside down.

[alph]

i also put an amp in my fairing.  it's a Nakamichi PA350, with Alpine 4" two way speakers.  i crammed the cruise control servo in also, i thought it would have been too tight, but there's TONS of realestate in that fairing!!  



ONE QUICK TIP FOR REAR SPEAKERS!!  

i went and bought some black silk faberic, sprayed it with silocone sealant, let it dry, then cut it to fit over the speakers as a water proofing cover.  it works great and costs about $6 or so, mostly for the sealant!! you can run pour water directly over it and it wont leak!!  



one other tip, while you're there, change out your dashboard lights with LED lights, they'll last forever and while you've got your fairing torn apart, it's the easiest time to do it!!