Fork seal brand suggestions

[Fudd]

I'm on ebay trying to order some front fork seals.  There are several different manufactures listed anywhere from $8 (+$4 ship), to $30.

Is any one brand or material better than others?  Any type to make sure not to get?

I've got a little minute to make sure I get the right ones at the best value, I'm not gonna change them until I get back from ROT rally in Texas.

Thanks for any enlightenments.

[YoungPUP]

Will probably catch some hell over this as they're not made in the us, but have had VERY good luck with ALL Balls, got mine from JP cycles. have used them before on previous bikes, with a+ results

[sandy]

OEM seals come as a 2 piece set with the dust seal for $20+ (need 2 sets). K&L sells seals with 2 oil seals for about $20 but no dust seals. I reuse the dust seals. I can't tell the difference between OEM and K&L.

[PhredValk]

Being ignorant, I got mine at the dealer. 2 sets of everything in the fork seal article; $150. 10% off for GWRRA, but still...
Fred.

[gordonv]

I negotiate with my local dealer. The few times I've known the price before calling, they have been almost the same price as HDL. This last time, they originaly wanted $40 for a 82' GL1100 master brake reservior + o-ring, I told them they where selling the complete top for $40 on ebay. Finial price was $30 with no shipping charge, I only needed to replace the bowl, and we need to keep these guys in business. I figure he gave me the wholesale price.

It was mentioned a few times in past posts, that the dealer usually gets them in a few days, where ours takes a week or more direct shipped.

Plus I know what I'm getting should be the right part, not some knock off that may not last, after all, I expect to keep this bike running another 29 years.

[toetruck21]

Being ignorant, I got mine at the dealer. 2 sets of everything in the fork seal article; $150. 10% off for GWRRA, but still...
Fred.

I'm in the same boat with you Phred, but she is all together and no leaks and I'm running her down the road!  Lesson learned.

[Fudd]

I'm getting packed for a 1000 mile round trip to Austin, Tx.  It has now become to late to do emergency surgery, even if the UPS man would get here with my fork seals.

What started as a slow ooze out of the left fork seal, progressed to being two or more spots on the ground everytime I stopped.  Sadly, the dripping has slowed back to an ooze.

I guess I should go ahead and order bushings because I'm sure they'll be toast by the time I get home.

If there was an easy way, I'd dump about a third of a quart of ATF in it.  Maybe repeat as needed 'till I get home.  I hate running metal parts bone dry.

[Valker]

I ran mine for two years and about 20,000 miles like that. I called that fork leg the Exxon Valdez. When I changed my seals this year, there was still a LOT of oil in it. The bushings (at 125,000 miles) were still within the manual's definition of useable, but I changed them anyway since I was in there.
I tied a red shop rag around the fork leg to catch most of the ooze/drips.(I have never claimed to be stylish)

[Fudd]

Hey Valker

Being overly fashion conscious, I can't do the red rag thing.  I gave thought to black leather fringed skirts, but I want to see the "blood" on the ground.  It helps me keep up with "what time it is."

I'm at the 6 month, 12,000 mile mark since I first wiped a film of oil off the strut.  I feel much better now after hearing from you that I haven't surpassed your level of procrastination.

Thank you for your insight.

[Ricky-D]

Yep, no such thing as being able to run them dry.

The little bit of oil that you see is that bit that can splash over the inner tube inside the shock.

There will always be oil inside the shock unless you lose a screw in the bottom where it can leak out or you turn the shock over end to let it drain.

This is not to say the shock will function perfectly with less oil, just that you will never get to a point where the parts are metal to metal inside the shock.

[98valk]

just had this problem. tried the 35mm film mod, made them worst, but so many said it worked.
so I took off the front wheel and the fork chrome guards off the fender.  pulled down the dust shields which gave me full 360 degree access to the seals and then used the film. put it back together and used a piece of felt with fork oil on it (kudos to who suggested this I forget who) btwn the seal and dust shield. after about 50 miles no more leakage. now at over 100 miles and forks are dry.   

[Fudd]

Hey CA EC

If I had this info a few days ago I would have tried it.  Just doing the 35mm trick didn't work for me either.  The leak got worse.  Leaving in a couple of days for the ROT Rally in Texas.  I plan to rebuild the forks when I get back.

Thank you for the suggestion though.