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Author Topic: Got an electrical question:  (Read 1655 times)
rogerthat
Member
*****
Posts: 39

Houston


« on: May 29, 2011, 09:59:44 PM »

Ok, here's the deal.  I rode to Church this morning, then to a store to get a few non-valk related items.  Came back out to the bike and pressed the start button and nothing.  Checked all the usual suspects like run switch and kick stand but no start.  No click, no slow starter, nothin'.  Push started her (cranked right up) and got home and started working the electrical system.  (sorry if this is long.)  The headlight goes out when I press the starter button, but no vroom.  I pulled the relay and checked the fuses and they're fine.  Battery reads 12.7 V.  Here's the kicker.  If I have the probe from my meter wedged into the slot where the Y/R wire goes into the relay plug I get a sometimes click and no start, sometimes click and motor engages but doesn't turn over, sometimes nothing, and sometimes starts fine.  I hit the plug with contact cleaner, but always the same result.  Do y'all figure the contact in the plug is bad or did my battery die the Houston Hoter'n Hell dead cell-o-death?  Just looking for opinions before I start replacing parts.  Thanks in advance.

Rogerthat
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R J
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Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2011, 10:36:23 PM »

I'd lean towards a bad battery.    HOWEVER,

Check this plug for a look see under the right side cover.



If it looks similiar to this, then order this from Direct Line or your nearest stealer.



This is originally for an older Gold Wing, but it will work just fine on the Valk.   All ya have to do to use it is move the big red wire to the current vacant post,  use the bigger rubber boot also.   Be sure and have good solder joints and use the heat shrink tube supplied.
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44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

PhredValk
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2011, 10:48:45 PM »

Have a look at Shoptalk for the Starter Button maintenance.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
houstone
Member
*****
Posts: 377


Can't get enough...

Santa Fe, TX


« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2011, 10:53:13 PM »

The classic.  We should all be able to do this at anytime...
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
;-)
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gregc
Member
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Posts: 437


Media Pa.


« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2011, 07:46:24 AM »

I agree, sounds like time for the starter button maint/rebuild.     When you push the starter button, try pushing in an upward and in at the same time, then try downward and in at the same time.  If it cranks doing either push, it is the starter button.  Really simple fix, need a phillips screw driver, and something to clean the contacts in the switch with.
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gordonv
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*****
Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2011, 10:06:29 AM »

First thing I would do is connect a non-running car battery to yours, and try out the starter button.

Sounds like a dead battery to me. Enough juice to activate the relay some times, but not enough to turn over the engine.

Do the easy one first.

Inspect the connect R J suggested.

If you have an IS (I didn't see what bike you had), then it isn't the starter switch, they have a relay. If a std/tourer, then the switch is your next step, even if it doesn't need it, it's good insurance on a 12 +/- year old bike.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

rogerthat
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Posts: 39

Houston


« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2011, 12:02:24 PM »

Thanks guys.  I'll do the switch maintenance first regardless, then if the problem persists I'll do a battery swap.

Rogerthat
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rogerthat
Member
*****
Posts: 39

Houston


« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2011, 01:58:35 PM »

Courtesy follow-up:  Looks like it was the starter switch.  The maintenance link was a great help.  Thanks for all the input.

Rogerthat
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2011, 11:29:23 PM »

Rogerthat, what part of Houston. I think we met before but not sure.
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flcjr
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Posts: 776


Manhattan,Montana


« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2011, 09:35:49 AM »

I would double check that battery sometimes a cell can short and then unshort itself and it will do it again and there is no warning I this happen to me last summer. went into the store after a 25 mile ride and nothing no lights at all. checked connections all ok battery read 9 volts. took battery out and checked again and magic 12.6 volts put back in started bike twice and then was dead again. BAD or SHORTED cell replaced battery all is well.
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rogerthat
Member
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Posts: 39

Houston


« Reply #10 on: May 31, 2011, 03:06:55 PM »

@MrBubbles, West side.  I think we met at a wrench party around Feb at Wizard's.  Mine's White/purple and I'm the long-hair.

@flcjr, Thanks for the post, I'm well aware of the bad cell syndrome and will be watching for further signs of weak starting.  For now it looks like the corrosion on the switch was sufficient to block the contact to the relay enough to cause it to fail to fail to trip/hold.

Rogerthat
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
Member
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2011, 04:34:15 PM »

Rogerthat,  I haven't ever been able to make it to a wrenching party so if we met it was on a ride or at GOTFs at Hotglues, we also made the Blue bonnet and bacon ride in april maybe it was then. I use to have long hair now just happy to have some hair.
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