New clutch and I have a new noise

[bscrive]

Hi Guys,

I just installed a Barnett clutch kit in my Interstate and now when I accelerate I have buzzing type sound coming from the transmission, it is not very loud but annoying.  What could this be?  Could I have over/under tightened the big bolt?  The sound was not there with the original clutch, it only showed up after the clutch was changed last week.

I have had the bike for 7 years now and this is the first thing I have had to do to it.

Brian

[Patrick]

Does the noise change if you apply a little pressure on the lever ??

[Ricky-D]

Aftermarket chrome motor/tranny covers have been known to make that kind of noise.

You cannot over-tighten anything inside the motor. Some will take exception to this statement but in your case I think it is applicable.

Noise is very difficult to pinpoint, using an aid to get a definitive location might reveal more info.

Is your bike desmogged?

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[bscrive]

The noise seems constant and it goes away when I press in the clutch.  I do have tranny covers but I eliminated that sound, it goes away after I reach a certain rpm but the sound is hard to pin point exactly.  Like I mentioned the sound was not there before I  changed the clutch and the bike is not desmogged. 

[Patrick]

You din't say how much ' pressing ' was needed before the noise disappeared.. If a slight ' press ' is all thats needed, it may be a dry push-rod..

[DFragn]

Hi Guys,

I just installed a Barnett clutch kit in my Interstate and now when I accelerate I have buzzing type sound coming from the transmission, it is not very loud but annoying.  What could this be?  Could I have over/under tightened the big bolt?  The sound was not there with the original clutch, it only showed up after the clutch was changed last week.

I have had the bike for 7 years now and this is the first thing I have had to do to it.

Brian

Since noise stops or reduces when you pull the lever my guess would be a dry or poorly lubricated Slave Cylinder Push Pin.

You may not of seen it if you didn't remove the slave cylinder from the rear cover. Pic shows 2 #17's, but there's only one in there.

These push pins can make a rough noise or even pig squeal sounds and stop when activating the clutch lever.

Easy to do. Remove the slave cylinder then the pin, lube the pin up real nice and reassemble. Molly paste or high temp grease will do fine.

You don't have to remove the hydraulic line. You can leave the system sealed, just don't let anyone grab the lever while it's apart. You might have to R/R the pin blindly - no big deal.

[Rio Wil]

So how do you like the Barnett clutch?  I am contemplating doing the same thing.  I presume you replaced the friction disks and the spacers.  Did the 'kit' come with a spring 'pressure' disk .  Is the off the line action smooth or does it lock up pretty aggressively. Is the lever pressure any different....the old hands are not what they used to be.....

[bscrive]

I will lube up the pin and give it a try.  I can't drive the bike right now because I have had a failure in my new ss brake line.  The front brakes wouldn't disengage so I had to disassemble the lines to check things out.  Master is fine, calipers are fine but the new Russel brake lines I just put on a few weeks ago have a problem.  The main line from the master is blocked.  I can blow air from one direction ok but the air does not blow out when I go the other way.  My cousin who is a car mechanic said that the interior line has probably failed due to a manufacturing error.  So, now I put the original lines back on but I am having a problem trying to bleed the system.  Very slow going.  Spent 1.5 hours last night pumping the handle and cracking the bleeder screw but not much fluid has gone in.  I even rebuilt the master for good measure.
To answer the question about the Barnett clutch, yes I replaced the whole kit including the spring plate, got it off ebay for $150.  Works great.  Better than the original.  It grabs nicely and does not jump.  I also use full synthetic oil, Rotella.

[bscrive]

Also, the lever pressure is no different.

[fudgie]

I will lube up the pin and give it a try.  I can't drive the bike right now because I have had a failure in my new ss brake line.  The front brakes wouldn't disengage so I had to disassemble the lines to check things out.  Master is fine, calipers are fine but the new Russel brake lines I just put on a few weeks ago have a problem.  The main line from the master is blocked.  I can blow air from one direction ok but the air does not blow out when I go the other way.  My cousin who is a car mechanic said that the interior line has probably failed due to a manufacturing error.  So, now I put the original lines back on but I am having a problem trying to bleed the system.  Very slow going.  Spent 1.5 hours last night pumping the handle and cracking the bleeder screw but not much fluid has gone in.  I even rebuilt the master for good measure.
To answer the question about the Barnett clutch, yes I replaced the whole kit including the spring plate, got it off ebay for $150.  Works great.  Better than the original.  It grabs nicely and does not jump.  I also use full synthetic oil, Rotella.

Once heard that if you leave the cap off the lines it will bleed itself over night. Maybe I read it wrong.

[bscrive]

Tried that.  It will only gravity bleed if the system is already full of fluid.  Also, I tried vacuum but that did not help either.  My cousin is coming over tomorrow night to bleed it.  He says that it just takes time and patients.  When I put on the ss lines I was able to bleed them in less than 1/2 hour.  Don't know why the old stock set is such a pain.

[cef2lion]

I was interested in this thread as I have a noise that sounds the same. I have a 98STD. I get the same noise when I accelerate or climb grade. Anything that makes the engine work. Goes away on the flat and cruising. Been all over the bike and have yet to find it. I had the buzz bolt tapped and set screws added. My noise doesn't go away by pulling in lightly on the clutch. So my noise appears not related to this one. I have taken the tranny chrome cover off. I can feel the vibration holding the alternator cover. It sounds like a cover vibration. Wasn't sure if it could be clutch or U joint related.

[bscrive]

i lubbed the rod and the buzz noise is gone.  Thanks guys.  Also, the master needed to be bled.  That is why i had so much trouble bleeding the brakes.  Once my cousin bled the master the lines were bled in no time.

[DFragn]

i lubbed the rod and the buzz noise is gone.  Thanks guys.  Also, the master needed to be bled.  That is why i had so much trouble bleeding the brakes.  Once my cousin bled the master the lines were bled in no time.

 

[Patrick]

Well, thats good and at least it was an easy fix.. A dry push rod is kinda common..

[fudgie]

Did you have to remove the kick stand to lub the pin? I tried a few years ago and had all the bolts out but still couldnt get the thing off. I didnt try to hard tho.

[bscrive]

You bet I did.  I held the bike upright while my cousin removed the kickstand and the slave to lube the pin.

I have another issue that is annoying.  It seems that since I changed the clutch, About half the time I have a hard time downshifting.  Upshifting is not a problem.  Any ideas.  I did not have this issue before the clutch change.

[Ricky-D]

If you can push the bike with: the motor off, in gear, pulled in clutch... then I'd say you're Ok.

The only thing to do is to bleed the system of any remaining air, if there is any!

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[Patrick]

Under what conditions are you having down shift problems ?? High speed or low speed or when stopped.. All of the above?? If when Low and stopped can be normal..

[bscrive]

It seems to happen more when I downshifting from high speed.  But it also happens when I am coming to a stop and I try to put it in first.  Sometimes it surprises me how easily it downshifts and sometimes it is a pain.

[Bone]

With my 98 Tourer I have noticed when I wait an extra second or 2 after pulling in the clutch lever before I hit the shifter it's real smooth.

[Patrick]

"It seems to happen more when I downshifting from high speed.  But it also happens when I am coming to a stop and I try to put it in first.  Sometimes it surprises me how easily it downshifts and sometimes it is a pain."
Huumm,, kind of a wonderment.. Don't know..Sorry..

[Ricky-D]

Downshifting approaching a stop is not really necessary with the Valkyrie.

Especially dropping down from a high speed.

As soon as approaching a stop pull the clutch in and shift totally down to first gear.

If you experience a slight difficulty simply feather the clutch slightly and then the transmission will continue to shift down to first.

Stopping completely and then trying to shift is folly with the constant mesh transmission such as in the Valkyrie.

Whenever you are stopped, you should be in neutral. That is unless you may be parked on a hill which in that case having the transmission in first gear is a good thing to keep the bike in place and not rolling off the kickstand or backing down and falling over!

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