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Author Topic: Some Days It Pays To Stay In Bed  (Read 1610 times)
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« on: June 08, 2011, 10:08:00 AM »

Replaced the rubber dampers in the rear wheel of my 2K I/S with 35K miles.  When torquing one of the hold down plate bolts to 14 lb/ft, it sheared about a 1/4" below the top of the hole.  Angry   I had no problems with the other bolts.  Considering its job is to just hold the plate in place, is it alright to run it as is with 4 bolts?

Marty
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2011, 10:46:53 AM »

should be fine marty.........I have never broken a bolt unless I was using a torque wrench.  I dont think those particular bolts care if they are at 14 or 16 or 12, as long as they are tight with threadlocker on them, they aint going anywhere.  Get a feel for the size of the fastener, the job its gonna do and how tight 14 (or 20 or 47) ft lbs is and you will save a lot of grief. After a while you will have a calibrated hand, I did the rear wheel for a friend yesterday.....I snugged up the pumkin bolts after we torqed the axle....I told the guy, there at around 30 now go get the torque wrench and put them to 47........all 4 were right at 30 like I guessed
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2011, 11:01:40 AM »

I normally run them all the way in till they stop and then put the torque wrench on them and that's what I did this time.  It's just infuriating especially everytime I turn around and discover something else that wasn't properly maintained.  Right now I have solvent sitting in the final drove gears cause the Moly 60 is dried out at the bottom and hard as a rock.  I hope it will soften so I can flush it out.  Thankfully the gears and the wheel flange look fine.  The Moly 60 on the wheel flange had the consistency of cake frosting.

Marty
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vanagon40
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Posts: 1464

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2011, 12:46:30 PM »

I assume you are talking about #16 in the diagram.  I did the exact same thing.  I rode with only four bolts for thousands of miles until I had a flat tire.  Replaced the bolt when I removed the tire to be repaired.  No problem.



Here is my almost identical thread: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,9900.0.html
« Last Edit: June 08, 2011, 12:53:51 PM by vanagon40 » Logged
JetDriver
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Columbus, OH


« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2011, 08:29:55 PM »

  Right now I have solvent sitting in the final drove gears cause the Moly 60 is dried out at the bottom and hard as a rock.  I hope it will soften so I can flush it out.  Thankfully the gears and the wheel flange look fine.  The Moly 60 on the wheel flange had the consistency of cake frosting.

Marty

I did some google surfing on molybdenum disulfide and found that it is a solid lubricant (as in, it used to be a rock!).  It's ground up and mixed with a carrier such as grease.  Once the moly is applied to the metal, it impregnates itself into the metal, and my understanding is, it's next to impossible to remove.  I read that it can dry up and it won't matter, the moly is now in the metal and will continue to lubricate.  I guess the fact that you found your gears and wheel flange to still look good supports that statement.  I didn't trust it though.  I mixed two thirds moly paste with one third BelRay waterproof grease- we'll see next tire change what I did to myself. Roll Eyes
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2011, 08:48:42 PM »

After an hour of soaking, it softened up enough to be removed.  I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original Moly 60 from the factory.  When I cleaned the pinion cup end of the driveshaft I discovered slight wear marks on the finish of the teeth.  Just a little irritating.  Sandman has 50K miles and not a single wear mark.  This one has 35K miles and some moron or their stealer didn't maintain it.   tickedoff

Marty
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2011, 10:53:28 AM »

All those worn looking parts still have many many miles left in them if you lubricate them from now on in.

I am amazed at how many additional miles I am getting from the (at least 50% worn) flange and drive splines in the pumpkin!

So far it's at over 15k miles and I just inspected them again and re-greased the splines and they show no additional wear. From where they were at last year.

The drive shaft end was pretty beat but the pinion cup was looking good so I installed an old drive shaft that had good used ends into the pinion cup with ample grease.

I mainly was curious about the u-joint and how it was doing.  it still looks fine, nice and free moving but no apparent looseness. Greased both splines and reassembled everything.

I still have that newly rebuilt pumpkin and a new drive shaft also. Have a u-joint on order with HDL for about a year or more and am looking for them to ship it to me.  When I ordered it the order was well over the 100 bucks minimum to get free shipping so i am hoping I'll get the new u-joint with no additional shipping charges. Good lick to that.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2011, 09:55:19 PM »

Ricky, I said it had slight wear marks not that it looked worn out.  The wear marks on the pinion end of the driveshaft and on the wheel flange are in the surface finish only.  They're about 1/2-3/4" long by about 1/16" high.  It's just a little frustrating that my Tourer has 50K miles with no obvious wear marks on any splines yet the I/S has 15K less and it appears it has never has had any drivetrain maintenance.  I appreciate the words of encouragement though.

Marty
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