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Author Topic: Dead Head Light  (Read 1923 times)
Kilroy
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Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« on: June 12, 2011, 10:53:23 AM »

Well the old girl went dark on me yesterday.  I run a modulator on the head light and it works well but on every once in a while it will loosen up due to the rubber boot and the light goes out.  Not this time, when I tried the bulb without the modulator no go, dark.   Replaced the bulb, no light, checked the fuses all good.   So those are the obvious things to check.   Where do I go from here?   Does the Valk have difficulties with the high low beam switch?? My next guess would be to check the connections in the Headlight bucket.   What are your thoughts?  Thanks for the input.
Ride Safe
Kilroy
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2011, 10:57:59 AM »

Are both beams out?  What bulb are you running?  Have you tried cleaning the hi/lo switch?  What about the start button?  Headlight power runs through both of those.

Marty
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tank_post142
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Posts: 2629


south florida


« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2011, 12:14:26 PM »

dead head  light?  Evil
http://cgi.ebay.com/Jerry-Garcia-Grateful-Dead-Light-pendant-lamp-/370504788067?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5643ce6863
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VRCCDS0246 
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2011, 01:06:40 PM »

Yep, time to get out the 12 volt trouble light and probe to find the power starting from the connector in the headlight bucket.

That's the way I like to do it but you can also go in the other direction and start at the fuse if you have power there.

My probe can utilize a sewing needle which can easily get through the insulation and find current, when and if, it's present.

Not difficult at all but doing things in an orderly fashion is a must to avoid mistakes.

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Kilroy
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Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2011, 05:27:06 PM »

X Ring, both beams are dark, I am using the standard 9003 H4 bulb.  No I have not clteneaned the hi low switch yet.  Did a starter button maintainence about 6 months ago with no problem since.  I got some work to do.
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X Ring
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Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2011, 11:35:22 PM »

If you have a multimeter now is the time to break it out.  Start by checking to see if you have voltage for high and low beams at the headlight plug.

Marty
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Mr Steve
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Feeding Hills, MA


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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2011, 01:23:42 AM »

My valk had a modulator in it when I got it.  The installer used vampire taps.  Given time in a headlight bucket they are guaranteed to fail.  My failure was the ground, the tap actually cut through it, which caused the headlight to go dark.  
« Last Edit: June 13, 2011, 01:36:01 AM by Mr Steve » Logged
Hoser
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child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2011, 05:46:16 AM »

Did you check the fuse?  I pulled the fuse to get home when my alternator went south.  Made it home, replaced the alternator, put the fuse back, lights on!  Hoser  Smiley
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Kilroy
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Posts: 106


Clearwater, Florida / Overland Park, KS


« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2011, 01:46:30 PM »

Thanks for all the suggestions, I looked at the starter switch first and that was the ticket.  Cleaned up the contacts and sprayed with the special electrical spray put it back together and all is well in paradise.  The contacts were very dirty, corroded somewhat.  I guess it all comes back to, "do the maintenance when needed and you will be fine"   or ride it hard, fix it when its broke.   Take your pick they both work for me.
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tja22
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2011, 08:34:29 AM »

How does one clean the headlight and starter switches?
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Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2011, 11:29:15 AM »

Top of the page click on Shoptalk:

Lot of how-to info for your Valk.
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