Starter switch finally got me

[Fudd]

Just got back to Baton Rouge from the Republic of Texas Rally.  After riding all day two up with a trailer in tow and stopping numerous times for fuel and breaks, I'm home.

Then, when I go to leave the house to take my passenger home.....nothing.

Bad starter switch.

When you just barely touch it, the headlight cuts out.  I finally got it to start by pushing the switch button up and to the left.

I think I've read all the links and posts on the repair.  The actual "fix" will have to wait 'till tomorrow, I'm pretty much worn out for the night.

My perminate solution is going to be a new switch and a relay.

Does Honda sell the guts to this switch, or do I have to buy the whole assembly.

Anybody know the part number or maybe a link to buy one?
 

[GOOSE]

fudd....switch, starter stop:  standard/c-t model honda number is 35013-MZO-020.......interstate model honda number is 35013-MBY-010.  THERE IT IS.....GOOD LUCK.

[X Ring]

Those are assemblies.  Afaik, you can't buy the switch separately.  The assemblies are about $70 each. 

Marty

[Fudd]

Thanks guys

The bike is a tourer.

Amazing, a 1000 mile trip in 100 + degree heat, no problems.

Then the switch crapped out in my own driveway.

I'm starting to believe this bike has a "spirit".

[GOOSE]

fudd.....you might want to go ahead and buy a new switch.  i did, but i also took the dang thing apart, and did the switch repair....guess what?.....it worked, and 3-years later i still have a spare switch assembly on my shelf for when the thing finally craps out for good.   it's worth at least trying the switch repair.

[Fudd]

Well, I tore into it.  It wasn't that hard of a repair.  I just followed the directions.  Done and riding in under 30 minutes. 

Didn't find any arcing or burning on any of the contacts.  The "slide" contacts were bent to the left side and depressed in.  I straightened them out using a fine tipped pair of needle nose pliers and a small common screwdriver.  I used very fine sand paper to shine up the four stationary contacts.

I'm thinking of mounting a momentary push-button switch near the key switch as a back up.

[bigguy]

Just did the same thing with mine. I checked it out real well before I put it back in the housing on bars and it worked fine. I popped the plastic switch apart again and filled it with dielectric grease. It seems like that switch housing doesn't do very much to keep moisture out.
Once it was back on the bar, it almost didn't want to start. I kept pushing and it finally worked again. I'm sure the dielectric grease is preventing continuity. Now it starts right up, but the headlight doesn't want to come back on. I've got to fiddle with the start button before it comes on. I'm going to give it a few days to see if the grease will redistribute itself enough to alleviate the problem.  If it doesn't, I'll pull it apart and clean off the grease.

[F6BANGER]

went to repair mine and got this....broken wire....hopefully soldering it will do the trick.

UPDATE........That did the trick...

[spbastien]

I know this is a really old thread, but it just saved me today. Had the bike loaded up and went to fire it up and the starter intermittently spun off & on till the bike finally started. Tried it a few more times with the same result. Googled, found this thread, cleaned out the button and now it works like new!

Thanks for the help!

[mrgeoff]

Just cleaned my Starter Sw.(99 CT) while I was Troubleshooting the Starter Relay Circuit...The Sw. was clean but I lightly shined up the contacts and I did use a "light" coating of dielectric grease...At least now I can count on the Sw. being in top working order...or until something else happens...seems to be the way things work some times...!!!

[BonS]

Seriously, if you want to stop this problem and get a much brighter headlight for your effort then install a Smart Switch. It's about 1/2 the price of a handlebar switch control and takes all the load off of the starter and Hi/Lo beam switches. Heck the brighter headlight is worth the price of admission alone. Go to  http://thedigisync.com/smartswitch-top-page.html to wee what it is. My e-store is down for maintenance right now but will be open later this week.

[MarkT]

I think many folks misunderstand the purpose of dielectric grease and so mis-use it.  Don't put it on electric contacts!  It's purpose is to BLOCK conductivity. Refresh on it's use here: http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm

[h13man]

I went the new switch assembly and the Smart Switch route. All is good.

[Curly]

Yep, this thread saved me a lot of heartache. Plus the informative guide about this very subject on the “rattlebars” website.
Proved to be a bit of a fiddle for me. I couldn’t discontent the wire leading up to the on/off switch, but managed to wriggle-out the push switch mechanism, leaving the contact plate (&4x contacts hanging down for cleaning). In my case the first two contacts (headlight) were very dirty both on the nipples & contacts) but managed to get a small Drimmel wire brush to everything and got it all back nice and clean. Gave all sliding parts a good squirt of WD40 (silicone) and reassembled everything.
My symptom was whenever the push button was touched lightly or you rode over a bump in the road (very common here in the Philippines

[Chrisj CMA]

Well, I tore into it.  It wasn't that hard of a repair.  I just followed the directions.  Done and riding in under 30 minutes. 

Didn't find any arcing or burning on any of the contacts.  The "slide" contacts were bent to the left side and depressed in.  I straightened them out using a fine tipped pair of needle nose pliers and a small common screwdriver.  I used very fine sand paper to shine up the four stationary contacts.

I'm thinking of mounting a momentary push-button switch near the key switch as a back up.

When you do the start button maintenance. One very important step is to make sure that little brass contact is bouncing on its spring and not binding in it's slot. I had to buy a new assembly due to a "get off" and the brand new switch stopped working a month later for that very reason. If it's not bouncy it will get pushed down and stay down causing a no start.