Duffy
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« on: June 17, 2011, 06:45:46 PM » |
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Some of you will remember this thread a while back that I started to get some help with what turned out to be a main fuse blown. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,22731.0/topicseen.htmlWell, here I am again!  With the same fuse blown. I thought I had found the casue before, but... Actually, the 30 a fuse isn't blown, but melted on the right side. The center of the fuse is still good.  The plastic case the fuse connects in is also melted a bit...  So - do I have to replace the case? If so, what does that entail? I also could use some guidance on finding the root cause. Thanks in advance. 
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Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
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Posts: 13835
American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.
Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )
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« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2011, 06:59:21 PM » |
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Did you clean all the contact's good ?( Unhook the battery first ) Check ground going to frame and make sure it's good and clean ? I hate wiring problems I've got a car here that I've spent $900.00 on and it still won't start  Good luck Duffy miss seeing you on the rides.
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 I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
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Duffy
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« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2011, 07:29:32 PM » |
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Thanks Joe, I'll clean it all up tomorrow afternoon after I get some work done. I cleaned it some a while back when I had this problem before...  I will see you for the fall color ride, if not before. 
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2011, 07:42:16 PM » |
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a fuse melting like that is mostly caused by poor connection in the fuse holder and the heat build up from that connection.
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wizard -vrccds#125
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« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2011, 07:44:37 PM » |
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It sounds like the starter relay. Seen the same thing on a trike at Cheaha this year. Pull the relay an take a good hard look where the fuse plugs into the relay ( the green is only a cover) That burned leg of the fuse goes into the relay. 
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FryeVRCCDS0067
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« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2011, 08:10:25 PM » |
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a fuse melting like that is mostly caused by poor connection in the fuse holder and the heat build up from that connection.
Yep. If the fuse isn't blown but melted it was almost certainly caused by the corrosion in the fuse holder. That maybe your only problem.
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"Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. And... moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue.'' -- Barry Goldwater, Acceptance Speech at the Republican Convention; 1964 
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Skinhead
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Posts: 8731
J. A. B. O. A.
Troy, MI
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« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2011, 04:57:47 AM » |
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Also make sure you have a good quality fuse, Harbor Freight was selling a fuse assortment from China that had fuses in it that would not blow at the rated amperage. Not sayin' that's your problem here, just an FYI.
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 Troy, MI
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Pete
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« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2011, 07:48:07 AM » |
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a fuse melting like that is mostly caused by poor connection in the fuse holder and the heat build up from that connection.
+1 Also think 'loose' connection, as a loose connection builds heat via arcing. Good luck
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Duffy
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« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2011, 08:23:57 AM » |
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Y'all make a lot of sense in what you write here, thanks.  So, do I need to replace the fuse holder, given it's condition? And, if so, how do I do that and can I buy just that or do I need a whole new wiring set?  I'll work on cleaning and tightening the connections and check back for your thoughts on that a little later. Thanks again. 
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2011, 11:21:22 AM » |
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from what I can see it looks like you may have dodged a bullet. new fuse and clean it up....dilactic grease. tape it up a bit to keep water out and you should be good
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Pete
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« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2011, 11:24:45 AM » |
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If it does not cleanup good and make a tight connection, it should be replaced. As for the covering that is melted, some heat shrink tubing can cover and with heat will shrink to fit nicely.
Another thought?? You may want to put an AMP gauge in the circuit to see what the current draw is after repairing it. That will show if it is drawing excess current still.
As hot as it appears to have gotten a finger test(for heat) occasionally may be a good thing for a few rides.l
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2011, 01:37:26 PM » |
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Y'all make a lot of sense in what you write here, thanks.  So, do I need to replace the fuse holder, given it's condition? And, if so, how do I do that and can I buy just that or do I need a whole new wiring set?  I'll work on cleaning and tightening the connections and check back for your thoughts on that a little later. Thanks again.  The bits you would need are probably on the "battery" page of the parts fiche...  -Mike
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2011, 03:53:33 PM » |
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He usually posts a Goldwing replacement part and picture.
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Duffy
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« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2011, 05:45:07 PM » |
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Well, I cleaned up the connections and the area under the side cover and put in a new 30 a fuse, which seemed to fit fine... nothing. No power. Battery tests ok and I did get power to the stater magnetic (?) now what?
The "Starter Magnetic" (as cheap cycle parts has it in the same fiche Mike showed, part # 10) is suspect. I tried to clean it up and all, but I can't see much down in the slot that the fuse presses into... maybe it is fried? (fyi)
010 SW, STARTER MAGNETIC 35850-MT4-000 1 $75.70
Another consideration is the set of wires that may have been the cause of the trouble before. I am not sure what the go to yet, but they connect together just above the fuses and are now disconnected and need a new connector on one wire.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2011, 05:56:13 PM » |
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Check this out: Starter Relay Repair
Relay Part # 35850-MT4-000 Wire loom repair kit - Part # 32110-ML8-305
This repair kit is actually for a 84-87 Gold Wing.
In the kit you get the following parts. Connector Assy. Not like original but will work Solder Shrink tubing Switch cover. - MUCH larger than the original.
The old one covered up the 30 amp fuse for protection from the elements.
This repair kit has a much larger boot that covers almost all of the starter relay and the connector.
You have to move 1 wire in the connector to the correct slot. It is the big red one, main wire. Move it to the empty slot and everything plugs in as before..........http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm-Mike
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wizard -vrccds#125
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« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2011, 06:38:49 PM » |
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Starter relay is what is gone. $15-$20 from pinwall  I now carry one in my parts kit for the road ! 
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Duffy
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« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2011, 08:34:19 PM » |
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Ok I ordered the part, 35850-MT4-000.  But what about this 32110-ML8-305? can't find a picture if it, it just says repair kit. Do I need it? What is in the kit? ??? and thanks Mike and others for the guidance. I am lost without you. 
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hubcapsc
Member
    
Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2011, 03:46:13 AM » |
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Mike and others for the guidance. I am lost without you.  I just looked around and found stuff other people said... -Mike "I'm lost too...  "
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R J
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Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2011, 10:31:16 AM » |
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Ok I ordered the part, 35850-MT4-000.  But what about this 32110-ML8-305? can't find a picture if it, it just says repair kit. Do I need it? What is in the kit? ??? and thanks Mike and others for the guidance. I am lost without you.  The part #35850-MT4-000 is for a older Gold Wing. If you repair your Valkyrie the way Honda wants you to, you will be replacing the whole damn loom to the tune of about $350. This unit above will do the trick and work just fine. This part # has been in MGM for about 2 years or more now. NO problems and it works just fine. Here is a picture of these parts. Be sure an move the big red wire to the current empty slot so it will match the Valkyrie plug. This is what mine looked like before the change over. 
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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RonW
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« Reply #19 on: June 20, 2011, 02:42:42 AM » |
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The same relay is used on other models, and even on other brand bikes. Relays are about as generic as bearings or bolts. Some relays are square, some are round. This Valkyrie starter relay sells for $22.95 (free shipping).
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
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Duffy
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« Reply #20 on: June 23, 2011, 08:10:42 PM » |
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Great news guys, the part came today and I am up and running again. I did not replace the top part, just the regulator. In fact I did get the one RONW suggested and it fit well and $50 cheaper than... I also got a new connector and fixed the loose wires above. Seems good for now, but I will probably wrap the top plug with waterproof tape to make sure water doesn't get in where it is melted. I am not sure I have solved all the trouble - I may be still fixing symptoms and not the root problem, we will see. Thanks for all the advice! 
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #21 on: June 24, 2011, 02:40:38 PM » |
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Probably wouldn't hurt to cover it to keep water out. Thanks for posting the results.
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Duffy
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« Reply #22 on: June 26, 2011, 12:25:16 PM » |
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So RJ and others that have had this same issue - what was the cause for you?  Here is my new relay ready to connect to the old, partially melted plug. Seems ok to crank, haven't test ridden yet. 
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R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2011, 01:00:00 PM » |
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Mine was caused by the way I wired my spot lights.......
Don't ask, as I ain't sayin.
As Forrest Gump would say: “That's all I have to say about that.”
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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Varmintmist
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« Reply #25 on: June 28, 2011, 05:35:34 AM » |
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Be gentle with the tape over connections that might get wet. 24 years in the phone co has made me understand that tape is real good at keeping water IN.
Hit it with dielectric grease and if you feel you must, coat it with some silicone real lightly.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Churchill
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Duffy
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« Reply #26 on: July 13, 2011, 06:37:16 AM » |
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Well I have been on three rides since replacing the relay and it is mostly good. ??? The first ride, July 2, I rode up to meet the North Georgia Motorcycle Club and when I first tried to crank it after meeting up, it was dead. I pulled the connection apart, removed the fuse (still good) reinstalled it and plugged it back together and it cranked right up. No problems the rest of that ride or on two rides since.  Mysterious.
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