Wheel bearings- where to buy

[98 T]

hey all,

I have a 1998 Tourer

I'm stocking up on spare parts. Looking at getting a complete set of wheel bearings (all 4) along with all the proper seals.  On 3 diff.  OEM sites, there are a long list of parts...probably totaling around $115-$120 or so depending on which site.

3W Lonerider suggested  "SKF" brand bearings -supposed to be a high quality from Sweden and NAPPA can order them... but the front were $26 each side, the right rear was around $55... seems kinda high and I think that might not have included seals...not sure.

Joe ValkIs suggested Bearing House...but we don't have one within 150 miles and I call that one and the guy I talked with didn't fill me with confidence he knew what I was talking about.


If I go to HDL's  "Valkyrie" page, the got this set listed: http://www.hondadirectlineofshadyside.com/stores/product.asp?pid=8770&str=2&ID=180849423        for around $37 for a whole set  and it says includes all the seals??!!??  Could these be some cheap crap??

I used the generic site  which was helpful for sizing:  http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htm

I have stumbled on to a couple sites  that seems to list what I need, but nothing about seals, they don't seem to show all the parts needed... no idea on the quality.

I've heard All Balls is a good quality bearing... Some sites have diff. part numbers for 2000 Valks... than my 1998 Tourer... I always thought after 1997, from '98 -2004 they were all the same.

If  they are better, I will pay for OEM...it's something I hope I never need, but if I do, it's going to be done right. 

Any suggestions on where to get good quality?  Like I said, I hope I don't need 'em, but they're small enough to carry with where ever I go.
Thanks in advance.
Any other places that

[The Anvil]

Wheel bearings are just standard bearings (I know of no manufacturer who has wheel bearings buiilt to an exclusive spec). Sealed bearings are available from a lot of different sources including industrial suppliers and they're often of higher quality than OEM stuff for considerably less money. I replaced the OE PM wheel bearings on my ZX7 with much higher quality Timken ceramic bearings for about 1/2 the price of the the Chinese bearings PM wanted me to buy. So if you're in no rush and so inclined then take a look at other options besides OE.

But I see no reason why you won't be able to get wheel bearings in the future so bottom line is; don't panic over wheel bearings.

P.S. I BELIEVE I got those bearings at McMaster-Carr but it was a long time ago.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

My dealer here uses the all balls bearing on their in house work. I oreder a set from HDL but have not installed them yet. I have them for spares.

[X Ring]

I would stay away from the All Balls junk.  Their bearings are NOT top tier.  SKF are but your NAPA wants WAY too much for the fronts.  I buy my bearings from Motion Industries and a pair of SKF 6204-2RS bearing cost what your NAPA dealer wants for one.  The price is a little expensive for 5204-2RS bearing but not much.  You are in luck.  The bearings Honda uses are top tier and until the 7th they are on sale from Honda Direct Line Parts, the stock parts side of Direct Line.

Marty

[98 T]

Thanks all... Marty, I think I'll order the OEM ones and try and see if the summer sale price works... I think the  promo word is  "summer"...

[X Ring]

No, the code is PATRIOT.

Marty

[VPX]

Has anyone ordered bearings from VXB.com? There prices seem lower than anywhere else that I've been able to find, though only $12 cheaper than Cycle Parts Nation for OEM parts.

[X Ring]

Has anyone ordered bearings from VXB.com? There prices seem lower than anywhere else that I've been able to find, though only $12 cheaper than Cycle Parts Nation for OEM parts.

VXB bearings are made in China.  Bearings are one of those items where the "You get what you pay for" saying holds true.

Marty

[Ghost Rider 2]

  Local bearing company or Motion industry.  If you buy a sleeve of 10 they are something like 3 or 4 bucks each.

[gregc]

Just did the rear axle with double bearings left and right, from McMaster Carr online for less the 85 dollars.

[John U.]

I noticed that the OEM front bearings are listed as 6204@$10.74. The left rear is listed as a 6204UU@$16.65. They have different part numbers as well. Can anyone shed light on the meaning of the UU designation of the left rear bearing?

[Big Rig]

What are the signs of bad bearings?

Just don't want to end up listening for the wrong thing...so is it a squeek or is it a "feel" thing?

Splain Lucy....

[X Ring]

I noticed that the OEM front bearings are listed as 6204@$10.74. The left rear is listed as a 6204UU@$16.65. They have different part numbers as well. Can anyone shed light on the meaning of the UU designation of the left rear bearing?

When I bought bearings for my front wheel I went to Motion Industries and bought 6204-2RS1 bearings.  They sealed on both sides and cost me about $12 each.  When I was doing research for my Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod article, I ran across the UU designation but I can't find any info about it now. I believe it is an old designation for seals on each side.  That's 2RS now.

Marty

[X Ring]

What are the signs of bad bearings?

Just don't want to end up listening for the wrong thing...so is it a squeek or is it a "feel" thing?

Splain Lucy....

Stick your finger in and turn the inner race.  If it feels rough or sloppy, replace it.

Marty

[Fudd]

What are the signs of bad bearings?

Just don't want to end up listening for the wrong thing...so is it a squeek or is it a "feel" thing?

Splain Lucy....

Stick your finger in and turn the inner race.  If it feels rough or sloppy, replace it.

Marty

I'm not knocking Marty's method for testing, I just do it a bit differently.

With the wheel removed from the bike, I take the axel and stick it into the bearing about an inch.  That leaves about 10 inches or so of axel to use as a handle to hold the wheel with.   Give the wheel a slow spin in the air while holding the axel.  Any flaws or ruffness can be felt onto the axel.  Next, pull the axel out turn the wheel around, insert axel 1 inch into the wheel  and check the other side. 

[X Ring]

What are the signs of bad bearings?

Just don't want to end up listening for the wrong thing...so is it a squeek or is it a "feel" thing?

Splain Lucy....

Stick your finger in and turn the inner race.  If it feels rough or sloppy, replace it.

Marty

I'm not knocking Marty's method for testing, I just do it a bit differently.

With the wheel removed from the bike, I take the axel and stick it into the bearing about an inch.  That leaves about 10 inches or so of axel to use as a handle to hold the wheel with.   Give the wheel a slow spin in the air while holding the axel.  Any flaws or ruffness can be felt onto the axel.  Next, pull the axel out turn the wheel around, insert axel 1 inch into the wheel  and check the other side. 

It's not exactly "MY" method.  It's in the Shop Manual.

Marty

[RainMaker]

I couldn't tell by the turn with your finger method - all felt fine.  But the wheel was moving a little sideways during rear braking.  The axle method revealed a rough spot and when the left bearing was finally removed, it was apparent it was going out.  The right bearing was OK, but it was replaced at the same time with the double row bearing modification.

But if I had not had the rubbing problem with the tire and the increased rub when braking, I would have never known the left bearing was going out while I was riding.  I guess it would have to have totally failed (probably on the way to Inzane) for me to notice.

[fudgie]

I noticed that the OEM front bearings are listed as 6204@$10.74. The left rear is listed as a 6204UU@$16.65. They have different part numbers as well. Can anyone shed light on the meaning of the UU designation of the left rear bearing?

When I bought bearings for my front wheel I went to Motion Industries and bought 6204-2RS1 bearings.  They sealed on both sides and cost me about $12 each.  When I was doing research for my Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod article, I ran across the UU designation but I can't find any info about it now. I believe it is an old designation for seals on each side.  That's 2RS now.

Marty

Can ya point to the bearings that you ordered? I looked but gives alot of bearings with that number.

[Ricky-D]

"With the wheel removed from the bike, I take the axel and stick it into the bearing about an inch.  That leaves about 10 inches or so of axel to use as a handle to hold the wheel with.   Give the wheel a slow spin in the air while holding the axel.  Any flaws or ruffness can be felt onto the axel.  Next, pull the axel out turn the wheel around, insert axel 1 inch into the wheel  and check the other side."

I don't agree with this practice, and here is the reason I disagree.

Supporting the wheel in this way will transfer very heavy side loading to the bearing to which is not the type of loading the bearing normally sees.

Normal loading is perpendicular to the axle with no angular loading ever being experienced by the bearing to the degree that supporting the wheel in this fashion imparts.

So doing this may damage the bearing.

Doing this may dislodge some contamination and cause the bearing to fail some time later.

Placing the axle into the bearing an inch or so will or may cause the axle end to come into contact with the internal spacer within the wheel causing you to think the bearing is bad when it is only the resistance of the axle rubbing against the spacer.

This is especially relevant when discussing the real wheel. I wonder just who can hold that rear wheel up with just the axle sticking in one bearing.  Not a very well thought out process I would say!

***

[X Ring]

I noticed that the OEM front bearings are listed as 6204@$10.74. The left rear is listed as a 6204UU@$16.65. They have different part numbers as well. Can anyone shed light on the meaning of the UU designation of the left rear bearing?

When I bought bearings for my front wheel I went to Motion Industries and bought 6204-2RS1 bearings.  They sealed on both sides and cost me about $12 each.  When I was doing research for my Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod article, I ran across the UU designation but I can't find any info about it now. I believe it is an old designation for seals on each side.  That's 2RS now.

Marty

Can ya point to the bearings that you ordered? I looked but gives alot of bearings with that number.

All the bearings in my Tourer's wheels are SKF.  6204-2RS1 in the front wheel and 3204-2RS1 in the rear.  I buy all my bearings at Motion Industries.

Marty

[Brian]

Guys,
You might have good power transmission warehouse near you that sells all types of bearings and belts. I rebuilt items on my cud cadet mower deck at more than half the price less than Cud Cadet wanted. I believe these bearing numbers you stating I used on my deck at $5.00 a piece from the warehouse.

[currahee2-6]

Greetings!
Along this subject line, what kind of mileage are you at or near that replacement of bearings, front or back, has or will become an issue? Are their failures or is this simply wise PM?  My IS has 79K miles on what are probably original bearings. 
Thank you.
Ride safely.
Peace.

[X Ring]

You may not need to do this.  I did mine because I bought an extra set of wheels and I didn't know the condition of the bearings.  I used the wheels when I changed the tires and to be on the safe side I replaced them.  If you check out my article in Shoptalk you can see pics of the bearings that came out.   

To answer your question, some people need to replace them sooner; some later.  Jess from VA was on a ride in western VA or WV and his left side 6204 bearing went out.  He was able to limp it to a dealer who replaced it.  When he had the chance, Jess performed the Double Row Bearing Mod.  As soon as Motion Industries tells me my bearings are in, I will be performing it on my I/S.

Marty

[Willow]

Along this subject line, what kind of mileage are you at or near that replacement of bearings, front or back, has or will become an issue? Are their failures or is this simply wise PM? 

I don't think mileage is a good indicator.  I've had them last 90,000 and I've had them go out at 20,000.  I think they generally go out as a result of installation issues or just plain poor bearings.  Some have blamed the use of high pressure washers and can make a convincing argument for that cause.

I think replacing them as PM without an indication of approaching failure is a waste of time and money.

The one most likely to go out seems to be the left rear.

[BigEagle]

I just picked up all 4 bearings at the local stealer only to find 3 of them we not even Honda parts... they were All Balls.  I just took for granted that since I ordered them from a Honda dealer I'd get geniune Honda parts.  Not so. 

[X Ring]

I just picked up all 4 bearings at the local stealer only to find 3 of them we not even Honda parts... they were All Balls.  I just took for granted that since I ordered them from a Honda dealer I'd get geniune Honda parts.  Not so.  

Take them back and rip the parts idiot a new one.  If you have to, demand to see the General Manager or Owner.  Hope the knucklehead didn't charge you OEM prices for that All Balls Crap.

Marty

[Tim H]

Anyone heard of Pivot Works?  I did a search and came up with nothing.  I figured since I need to get a pair of fronts, these are decent prices, and throw in brake pads all around, for the future, and I can get the holiday deal and save a little.

Pivot Works Front Wheel Bearing Kit

[04strider]

If you want good bearings that are going to last, stick with SKF, NTN/SNR, INA, Koyo (Honda OEM are typically Koyo).  Other brands are typically inferior and will not last.  The metallurgy, tolerances and lubricant are substandard.  Buy your bearings from an industrial bearing supplier such as Applied Industrial, Motion Industries, etc.  You can find these in most moderately sized towns.  Use only sealed bearings, not shielded, this designation will be 2RS for SKF or EE for SNR.  All manufacturers use differing designations to indicate 2 seals.  As a rule, when installing bearings, drive or press only on the bearing race that is the press (interference) fit, ie: wheel bearing is pressed on the outer race to install, because it is an interference fit with the hub, but a clearance fit on the axle.  This can normally be accomplished by using a socket that is slightly smaller in diameter as the bearing race.  Hope this helps.

[Tim H]

Thanks Strider. You gave a little more detail than the Shoptalk section.  I have Motion Industries in town.  I'll see if I can stop by there and see what they have.  Is it fine to reuse the seals from the old bearings.  The kit I listed looked nice because it had it all together and mailed to my door.

[Earl in Pensacola]

On my '97 Tourer with 245K on the clock--As PM, I changed the front bearings with OEM's at 85K and they are still in place!  Prior to March 2010, I've had about three sets of OEM rear bearings installed, but not sure how many were actually needed, because on two occasions, I was having other drive-line work done.  One thing for sure the last set (put in by local dealership) left side was not properly installed and my rear wheel was ruined.  I bought another wheel and new OEM bearings (4th set) 30K ago, actually March of 2010. All (front and rears) still good.

[Fudd]

"With the wheel removed from the bike, I take the axel and stick it into the bearing about an inch.  That leaves about 10 inches or so of axel to use as a handle to hold the wheel with.   Give the wheel a slow spin in the air while holding the axel.  Any flaws or ruffness can be felt onto the axel.  Next, pull the axel out turn the wheel around, insert axel 1 inch into the wheel  and check the other side."

I don't agree with this practice, and here is the reason I disagree.

Supporting the wheel in this way will transfer very heavy side loading to the bearing to which is not the type of loading the bearing normally sees.

Normal loading is perpendicular to the axle with no angular loading ever being experienced by the bearing to the degree that supporting the wheel in this fashion imparts.

So doing this may damage the bearing.

Doing this may dislodge some contamination and cause the bearing to fail some time later.

Placing the axle into the bearing an inch or so will or may cause the axle end to come into contact with the internal spacer within the wheel causing you to think the bearing is bad when it is only the resistance of the axle rubbing against the spacer.

This is especially relevant when discussing the real wheel. I wonder just who can hold that rear wheel up with just the axle sticking in one bearing.  Not a very well thought out process I would say!

***

A little side load on a bearing made of steel will not damage it in any way.  It just amplifies any roughness where it is easly felt.  You are only applying the weight of the wheel on a bearing that vertically can support at least 500 lbs.  Bearings are not that dainty.  You install the things by laying a wooden board on them and taping them into place with a hammer, don't you.

The risk of "contamination" is no greater sticking the axel in 1" as it is sticking it all the way through and mounting it on the bike.  These are sealed bearings, not DNA that you're worried about getting contaminated.

Just don't stick the axel in so far as to rub the internal spacer and you don't have to worry about "false roughness."

With my upper arm down by my side, and my fore arm on a slight upward incline (from my elbow to my hand) I can easily hold the wheel out by the axel for testing.  

I see nothing wrong with this testing method.  I have used it for decades without damaging anything.  If the deal is, This can't be a good testing method because it's not the one that you use, that'll at least make more sense than "contamination" or whatever.

[hubcapsc]

When I got my Valkyrie, I wrote down the numbers on the sides of the bearings
(I guess I took them out first?), and looked up a bearing supply house in the
phone book and drove down there (next medium-sized town over) and they matched
most of them up from on-hand stock.

I have a '97, and I remember that I got one of the rear bearings from NAPA and it
cost $50 or more... NAPA usually has decent stuff though...

You install the things by laying a wooden board on them and taping them into place with a hammer, don't you.


No, but that sounds like a pretty good idea. I've installed  wheel bearings by searching out a socket
that was just the right size so that it was a tiny bit smaller than the bearing, and only touched
the bearing on the outer race, and then pounded that in... real awkward and you have to
really concentrate to make sure the bearing gets started in straight instead of rooster-eyed... and
it is not good for the socket...

Now I have the Honda special bearing driver tool, that's like cheating 

After I got the driver handle and some of the the adapters specified in the shop manual, I saw this for $30
down at Harbor Freight... I bet a lot of these adapters are the right size for some of the bearings on
our bikes, sure is a lot cheaper than Honda tools...



-Mike

[Ricky-D]

I never have liked the idea to hammer on a bearing: Whether there is wood there, or a bearing installer.

Just to me, hammering on a bearing is a no no.

I use threaded rod and nuts, washers and sockets to fit the outer race.

Turns them right on in with no fuss.

***

[Fudd]

I never have liked the idea to hammer on a bearing: Whether there is wood there, or a bearing installer.

Just to me, hammering on a bearing is a no no.

I use threaded rod and nuts, washers and sockets to fit the outer race.

Turns them right on in with no fuss.

***

My comment on bearing replacement "tapping them in," was more to illustrate the toughness of a bearing than to endorse a technique with board and hammer.

I have access to a small press that I use when practical, and I too use a socket on the outer race.

My point is that rough imperfections can be felt through the axel that would otherwise be missed by merely a finger spinning the bearing with no load.  Such a bearing may or may not make it to the next rear end service when roughness can be felt by finger alone.

I may have at times changed wheel bearings prematurely, but, "knock on wood", so far I've never been stuck "out there" with a bad wheel.

[Madmike]

What are the signs of bad bearings?

Just don't want to end up listening for the wrong thing...so is it a squeek or is it a "feel" thing?

Splain Lucy....

use both senses when inspecting bearings for reuse you can sometimes hear and feel a rough spot.

here is some info that pertains to general bearing info lots of subjects covered that you can look through ........

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products?maincatalogue=1&lang=en&newlink=9_0_94

[art]

What are the signs of bad bearings?

Just don't want to end up listening for the wrong thing...so is it a squeek or is it a "feel" thing?

Splain Lucy....

Stick your finger in and turn the inner race.  If it feels rough or sloppy, replace it.

Marty

I'm not knocking Marty's method for testing, I just do it a bit differently.

With the wheel removed from the bike, I take the axel and stick it into the bearing about an inch.  That leaves about 10 inches or so of axel to use as a handle to hold the wheel with.   Give the wheel a slow spin in the air while holding the axel.  Any flaws or ruffness can be felt onto the axel.  Next, pull the axel out turn the wheel around, insert axel 1 inch into the wheel  and check the other side. 

It's not exactly "MY" method.  It's in the Shop Manual.

Marty

That is the way it is usually done.I am going to get either SKF or Fafner bearings.More expensive but you do get what you pay for in some cases.I don't want a bearing failing because I got a cheaper bearing.Chances I would be out in BFE when it happens.Not good

[04strider]

Tim, it is usually difficult to remove the seals to access the bearings without damaging them, so be prepared to replace with new.  They are reasonably priced, even from Honda.  Honda typically uses Freudenberger-NOK as their seal supplier, but good bearing supply house should be able to cross them over to another brand such as CR, or National if they don't have NOK.  Check with them when you pick up your bearings.  Look at the Honda parts fische for the sizes, they are different from the bearings.  You will want a double lip seal design.

[upjeeper]

what kind of prices did you guys get from motion industries?

I went in there last friday they wanted $14 each for the 6204 and $44/each for the 5204, I didn't even ask them about seals (these were SKF brand)