MY REBUILDABLE U-JOINT

[Free Pass]

I've been running this rebuilt u-joint since Sept 10th, 2010.  With the winter, I now have 3,855 miles on it.  The first of Sept. I pulled my rear end down to do the double row bearing modification.  In checking everything out before it went back together, noticed a rough spot in one of the crosses on my u-joint.  78k miles.  99 black interestate.  I had heard that there was a backorder of u-joints at the dealership.  Sure enough, none in stock, said it would be 30-45 days.  Started thinking about how I could rebuild this one.  Took it to my local machinest.  Said he wasn't set up to do this, but he thought a drive shaft company could rebuild it.  When I took it in to the drive shaft comp. he looked at it for 3 seconds, and said "Oh, Japanese".  Why they designed it with state pockets, when with a little more engineering they could have made a rebuildable joint out of it.  I asked if we could machine it to accept a renewable joint?  He said yes, that is what we do.  He does Japanese joints all the time.  He has a C & C machine set up for cutting these joints.
This is what I came up with:  (only a three day turn around)

[JimC]

I knew it was only a matter of time before someone did that, GOOD JOB!

NOW, you will have to get p[permission from that drive shaft shop to post their address and phone number so the other Valk owners that need one can contact them.

And of course the next question will be, how much did it cost?

Jim

[R J]

I always figured if I had to ask the price I couldn't afford it.     LOL.


There are a few things I wished I'd of asked the price before the work was done.

One example was my Valkyrie neon sign.

I didn't care what it cost, I wanted it fixed.

Here is what it looks like now.

[Farther]

NOW, you will have to get p[permission from that drive shaft shop to post their address and phone number so the other Valk owners that need one can contact them.

What shop would not want free advertizing.  Please post the address as you are close to the State of Jefferson if not actually in it.

[Tx Bohemian]

This is great Free Pass.

Got a question:
Is there a Grease Zert on both sides.  The picture only shows one side.

If not seems like this would throw the shaft off balance possibly causing other issues.  Or do they balance the shaft once rebuilt?

[Free Pass]

Answers to your Questions:
     RJ, First your question.  IT'S FREE.  NO CHARGE.  I have decided I am not interested in getting into the u-joint business.  My original plan was to make a $50 profit on each joint. I have built three of these.  the machine cost was $85.00 per joint.  The u-joint I paid $21 at O'Rielley's Auto Parts.  Napa also has these on the shelf, in stock.  I will get to the u-joint later.  Shipping them to me would have been approx. $15 coming and $15 going.  My original plan was to have a drop-in u-joint at your door for $185.00.  The problem is that I have no way of promoting these u-joints for sale.  "Not interested in doing the ebay thing".  The VRCC does not allow the members to post things for sale on their board that the member might make a profit on.  I have read the "Rules of the Road" over many times.  Specifically article #5 and article #6.  It is made perfectly clear what is acceptable and what is not.  Not interested in bucking the system. 
     The info is free, no charge.  Here is the info on how you can build a u-joint in your own town, like I did for $106.00.  First, find yourself a drive shaft business.  Every fairly large town should have one.  Next, go to O'Reilley's or Napa and get this u-joint  Precision Universal Joint. #392.(pic below)
Free Pass

[Free Pass]

Tx Bohemian,
Great question.  It is possible that the weight of the grease zert may throw the u-joint out of balance.  Plus it is possible that the u-joint may catch and rub on the boot housing.  I thought of that.  If you look at the first pic the grease zert is removed and in its place is an aluminum plug fitting.  Once a year, when it is time to grease the u-joint from underneath, or the side, just slide the boot back, remove the aluminum plug and insert the grease fitting.  Just run all year long with the aluminum plug.

Free Pass

[Free Pass]

[img][http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_25063/Valkyrie%20u-joint%20003.jpg/img]

I forgot to mention earlier that this Precision Universal Joint, #392 is made by Federal-Mogul Drive Line Products out of Chicago, Il.  (been building u-joints since time began.)
I will have this u-joint with me in InZane in Michigan in a couple of weeks.
for those of you that want to see it, touch it, and feel it.....After InZane, I will probably ship it home with some dirty clothes.  I feel there is no need to carry a spare like we have all done for years.  If the u-joint goes bad, I can replace the u-joint in about 15 min. with some hand tools.  Between Napa and O'Rielleys, nationwide, I can buy this joint off the shelf, if I was to need one.

My drive shaft guy, when he took it apart, said that the u-joint was about out of lubrication.  He said that some come from the factory with more grease when installed than others.  Maybe the reason for some failing earlier than others.  that is why I felt it was important that I get a joint that had a grease zert.  His one comment was "that the u-joint was no longer the weakest link.  It is now the housing". 
 Free Pass

[X Ring]

I don't think that rule applies to the Classifieds section.

Marty

[tank_post142]

just ordered a pair off ebay for $20 each

[Free Pass]

Marty,

Go to "rules of the Road", and read article :
#6:   COMMERCIAL VENDORS
The Classified:  Not for Commercial Use.  Period.
The Message Board:  Not for Commercial Use.  Period.
Last week there was a guy that talked about building a polished stainless steel alternator cover. Me and about 20 other guys chimed in and said "you build it and we will buy it".  It is not going to happen.  He will not be able to promote it on any of the VRCC Boards. Period.....
Free Pass

[fudgie]

Marty,

Go to "rules of the Road", and read article :
#6:   COMMERCIAL VENDORS
The Classified:  Not for Commercial Use.  Period.
The Message Board:  Not for Commercial Use.  Period.
Last week there was a guy that talked about building a polished stainless steel alternator cover. Me and about 20 other guys chimed in and said "you build it and we will buy it".  It is not going to happen.  He will not be able to promote it on any of the VRCC Boards. Period.....
Free Pass

Are you technically a 'commercial' vendor?  To me, being commercial, means is its a bussiness and you pay taxes on the bussiness.

[Hoser]

Three cheers for the underground economy, been a member for years.  Hoser 

[Westsider]

Three cheers for the underground economy, been a member for years.  Hoser 

+1/// way to getter dun free pass, and thanks fot the info from the westside..

[98valk]

why could not the OEM u-joint end cap be drilled, tapped and a zerk fitting installed to grease it? and then a aluminum plug inserted like Free Pass is doing.
And thanks Free Pass for the info.

[fudgie]

why could not the OEM u-joint end cap be drilled, tapped and a zerk fitting installed to grease it? and then a aluminum plug inserted like Free Pass is doing.
And thanks Free Pass for the info.

My guess is cause its not rebuildable.

[98valk]

why could not the OEM u-joint end cap be drilled, tapped and a zerk fitting installed to grease it? and then a aluminum plug inserted like Free Pass is doing.
And thanks Free Pass for the info.

My guess is cause its not rebuildable.

I'm thinking if fresh grease is kept in it, it should last much longer, same maintenance used for vehicles.

[Westsider]

the old car ujoints were internally cross drilled ,they had the zerk right in the cross section so the grease went into the caps. im guessing the stock valk joint is solid,no grease passageway??

[98valk]

the old car ujoints were internally cross drilled ,they had the zerk right in the cross section so the grease went into the caps. im guessing the stock valk joint is solid,no grease passageway??

that's my question, do we know either way for sure? has anybody checked out their old one.

[John Schmidt]

Basically, what your driveline company did was remove the stakes holding the OEM u-joint in place. Removed the u-joint and machined slots/grooves into the arms in place of the original stakes. Then installed the new u-joint using the clips instead of staking the arms to hold it in place. Is the new joint the same size as the OEM unit or larger. If larger, how much did they have to machine off or enlarge the openings in order to get the new one to fit?

I like the idea, just need the specifics for my local shop. I'm sure they'll have some questions.

[Free Pass]

Westsider,  Good question.  No, the OEM cross joint is not drilled.  Each cap is individually greased at manufacturing.  Some caps with more grease than others.  Hense, I am thinking that may be part of our problem.  Do not let your driveline shop install NEAPCO part #1-0028.  this joint does not have a grease zert.  they are cheaper, for that reason.  I insisted on one with a grease zert.  My own research and I came up with Precision Universal Joint #392.  It is an exact cross reference.  That is why I bought my own, with exactly the same measurements.  this joint is plenty strong enough.  It was installed in early Datsun and Nissan pickups and cars as well as Toyota pickups.  If it will power an 80's Toyota pickup, it will power our Valks.
Free Pass
 

[Free Pass]

John Schmidt,
The answers to your first four questions are:  yes, yes, yes and no.
NO the u-joint is not the same size as the OEM.  the cap is the same diameter, but the length of the cross is almost a 1/4" longer on each cap. Equaling almost a 1/2" on the total cross.  that is alot more needle bearing surface.  I could have went with a larger diameter cap that alone would have weakened the yoke itself by having to drill a larger hole for the cap.  It also would more than doubled the price of the machining. I do not know the exact measurement from yoke to yoke that was machined.  but when you take your machinest the u-joint, he will mic it out to have a tight fit from outside c-clip to outside c-clip.  they have a formula for that.     
Free Pass

[Mr Steve]

Marty,

Go to "rules of the Road", and read article :
#6:   COMMERCIAL VENDORS
The Classified:  Not for Commercial Use.  Period.
The Message Board:  Not for Commercial Use.  Period.
Last week there was a guy that talked about building a polished stainless steel alternator cover. Me and about 20 other guys chimed in and said "you build it and we will buy it".  It is not going to happen.  He will not be able to promote it on any of the VRCC Boards. Period.....
Free Pass

I understand why this exists and what it would be like without it, but it hurts the one off solution shops.    It also hurts the community because some items simply cannot be made without the ability to discuss demand here.  Perhaps a new forum where that is allowed?  Where mom and pops can discuss "hey, I can make this, but it costs me so much to do so, how many of you would buy one if I did it?  Maybe I can squeak a quantity discount".  It could lead to some interesting new things for our bikes.

[RonW]

Free Pass, is the machinist who did your u-joint the owner/operator of the shop? Excellent thread, btw.

[X Ring]

It's not like this is from Grumpy, Big Mike or any other vendor.  Here we have a member who has come up with a solution for a problem we've all been complaining about and he can't advertise it cause he would be considered a "Commercial" vendor.   I for one would be willing to find a couple of shot u joint assemblies and send them to  Free Pass and have him get them modified for me.  I would also be willing to include something above the cost of the work for his trouble and time.  This also includes the guy that came up with the stainless alternator covers.  The newest of our Valks is about 9 years old and, as we've already seen, parts are starting to be a problem.  We need to petition for a change in the rules for these guys that come up with innovative solutions.

Marty

[Valkpilot]

John Schmidt,
The answers to your first four questions are:  yes, yes, yes and no.
NO the u-joint is not the same size as the OEM.  the cap is the same diameter, but the length of the cross is almost a 1/4" longer on each cap. Equaling almost a 1/2" on the total cross.  that is alot more needle bearing surface.  I could have went with a larger diameter cap that alone would have weakened the yoke itself by having to drill a larger hole for the cap.  It also would more than doubled the price of the machining. I do not know the exact measurement from yoke to yoke that was machined.  but when you take your machinest the u-joint, he will mic it out to have a tight fit from outside c-clip to outside c-clip.  they have a formula for that.     
Free Pass

Does the larger size mean you have to remove the swingarm to install and remove the u-joint?  Getting the OEM out by the wiggle, twist, and cuss method was already a challenge.

[Westsider]

the ujoint is a little bigger and the yokes get machined for them   

[Willow]

It's not like this is from Grumpy, Big Mike or any other vendor.  Here we have a member who has come up with a solution for a problem we've all been complaining about and he can't advertise it cause he would be considered a "Commercial" vendor.  ...  I would also be willing to include something above the cost of the work for his trouble and time.  ...  We need to petition for a change in the rules for these guys that come up with innovative solutions.

Just in the interest of fair and open communication:

Marty, Big Mike and Grumpy are paying advertisers.  To put it in simple terms, they pay the bills to help make this forum available.  I don't know what you meant by "any other vendor".

I'm sure Dick didn't mean to mislead you, but some of you have read something into his words that doesn't apply.  As you have witnessed, Dick is spreading the word about his item on this forum and I am being permissive to that end.  Were Dick interested in producing hundreds of U-joints to market to the thousands of members who frequent this forum, our tiny advertising fee would have been a non-issue.  More about that in a few sentences.

If you change the tense of your verbs ("I would be willing") to present, Dick's objective is met.

Save the petition.  If you're not one of the ones emailing the innovator to purchase one of his products put the blame on yourself and not on us.      

It's not really a problem about which we have "all" been complaining.  There are actually ample Valkyrie u-joints available, but they're in our own hands.  If someone is truly in need of a joint and doesn't have one it's primarily because he hasn't asked.  That said, Dick's innovation is a solution for many who are looking for a non-OEM replacement.  I applaud and encourage Dick's innovation, but the price of his product will result in its demand evaporating like alcohol on a summer side walk in a couple of weeks when the OEM joints become readily available for 65 - 85 dollars.

Let me be clear that I applaud Dick's innovation.  I think that Dick's innovative nature will provide more opportunities for him in the future.  This is one for which Dick chose to not risk his funds in making it a commercial venture.  I think he made a wise choice.

[Chrisj CMA]

John Schmidt,
The answers to your first four questions are:  yes, yes, yes and no.
NO the u-joint is not the same size as the OEM.  the cap is the same diameter, but the length of the cross is almost a 1/4" longer on each cap. Equaling almost a 1/2" on the total cross.  that is alot more needle bearing surface.  I could have went with a larger diameter cap that alone would have weakened the yoke itself by having to drill a larger hole for the cap.  It also would more than doubled the price of the machining. I do not know the exact measurement from yoke to yoke that was machined.  but when you take your machinest the u-joint, he will mic it out to have a tight fit from outside c-clip to outside c-clip.  they have a formula for that.     
Free Pass

Does the larger size mean you have to remove the swingarm to install and remove the u-joint?  Getting the OEM out by the wiggle, twist, and cuss method was already a challenge.

Valkpilot....the only thing that is larger is the internals......The yolk is the same, will make no difference removal and instllation.

[Westsider]

free pass, how much of a interference fit are the caps, typical press in fit?


and looks lke a good project.

[F6BANGER]

why could not the OEM u-joint end cap be drilled, tapped and a zerk fitting installed to grease it? and then a aluminum plug inserted like Free Pass is doing.
And thanks Free Pass for the info.

the old car ujoints were internally cross drilled ,they had the zerk right in the cross section so the grease went into the caps. im guessing the stock valk joint is solid,no grease passageway??

that's my question, do we know either way for sure? has anybody checked out their old one.

How about drilling all four caps, greasing with a zerk and adding the plugs to hold the grease in?

[Valkpilot]

Valkpilot....the only thing that is larger is the internals......The yolk is the same, will make no difference removal and instllation.

Thanks.  I was stupid today.  This phrase:

the length of the cross is almost a 1/4" longer on each cap. Equaling almost a 1/2" on the total cross.

  threw me.  My initial read of this was that the u-joint was growing in cross section, but some head-scratching made it clear that's impossible unless the caps extend out past the yoke.

[RP#62]

Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk  Zerk 

[CajunRider]

PLEASE PLEASE!!!!!!!!

Put a write up on how to do this (with part numbers) in the shop talk section!!!    

[Westsider]

yes,, could you just give us the finish size of the yoke reamer to use for this particular joint,,,precision #392.  its got to be a few thou less for a interference fit im sure,thank you sir.

[tank_post142]

the dia is the same. the inside faces of the yoke have to be machined to give clearance for the c-clips.

[Westsider]

never mind//////

[Redline +]

How about drilling all four caps, greasing with a zert and adding the plugs to hold the grease in?

Most u-joint caps are hardened, they would be difficult to machine.

Redline 

[Jim Ross]

Willow,
As per normal with you.....a very thoughtful, polite and well written response.
Good job.

[F6BANGER]

How about drilling all four caps, greasing with a zert and adding the plugs to hold the grease in?

Most u-joint caps are hardened, they would be difficult to machine.

Redline  

I didnt realize that they were hardened. When I saw FREE PASS' pics of drilled and tapped cap, I thought it would be easy.

If it worked, it would be a cheap and easy fix.