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The Anvil
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« on: July 18, 2011, 07:39:39 AM » |
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 The riding position is now perfect. My body is rotated forward a bit and my hands and wrists are now in line as they should be, not bent at some goofy angle. Really, I don't know who's idea those stock bars were but I hate them. I'm not sure if this will completely cure the nasty pinch I get in my trap that radiates to my spine but even sitting still and on the functional checkride I took it felt far more natural. Now I need to go take measurements for new cables, lines and eventually route the wires in the bars to clean it up. The stock brake lines work okay but as you can see from the pic the banjo fitting exit angle at the control ends are all wrong.I'm gonna go with 90's and the throttle tubes should be 45's. But nothing's binding or chocked from lock-to-lock and it's rideable. Are these electrical wires connected beneath the tank with football connectors or bullets or will I have to cut them and put them in? |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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tank_post142
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« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2011, 07:52:23 AM » |
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looks good. all wiring leads into the headlight. multi pin plugs so you will have to cut.
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I got a rock  VRCCDS0246  |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2011, 07:54:53 AM » |
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Anvil, pull your headlight and you'll see two square 9-pin connectors in there. That's where your handlebar controls hook into the main bike harness. There's two ways to do this, one is as you mentioned...cut the wires and resolder together after running inside the bars. The other is draw a diagram of the wire locations on their respective connector and then pull the wires out of the connectors. One suggestion when it comes to running them inside the bars; remove the plastic sleeve on the individual bundle of wires running from the switch boxes to the headlight. Wrap the wires rather snugly with some electrician tape prior to pulling them through. Wrapping them makes a smaller bundle although a bit stiffer. I first ran some safety wire up through(easier than trying "down" through) the bars and attached some strong kite string to it. Pulled the string through, then attached the upper end to the wire bundle. Running wires through a tight area is often made easier by spraying some regular old rubbing alcohol inside. It will evaporate quickly and not leave residue. Just a few pointers is all, however if you've worked on aircraft you have some tricks you're already familiar with. We all know the factory installs the part you need to get at, then build the a/c around it.  Tank....you beat me to it.  |
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« Last Edit: July 18, 2011, 07:57:21 AM by John Schmidt »
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The Anvil
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« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2011, 11:00:47 AM » |
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Thanks guys. It's made easier by the fact that they all terminate in one place. I'm gonna look for some small connectors like bullets that will fit in the light housing and still allow removal of the bars and controls without soldering, though I may find too little room and have to solder and shrink. And Mr. Schmidt, I totally know what you mean about them building the aircraft around stuff.  Oh, and I'm thinking bar-end mirrors will look bitchin' with the drag bars. |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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tank_post142
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« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2011, 11:12:41 AM » |
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cut the plugs about 2" back on the wiring. run through the bars and re-solder. remember to put the heat shrink on before soldering!!
ps: stagger the cuts so they are not all in one spot on the harness,creating a huge bulge in the headlight housing.
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« Last Edit: July 18, 2011, 11:17:21 AM by tank_post142 »
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I got a rock VRCCDS0246 |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2011, 11:27:07 AM » |
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"And Mr. Schmidt, I totally know what you mean about them building the aircraft around stuff." Hey Anvil, what's this "Mr." stuff....waaay to formal for me. As a side note re. bullet connectors, here's where to get them. They're the same size used by metrics since the mid-60's. They also carry all the different multi-pin connectors as well, I keep a good collection in stock of all types and sizes. http://www.vintageconnections.com/index.htm
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The Anvil
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« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2011, 11:42:37 AM » |
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remember to put the heat shrink on before soldering!!
I've made that mistake before!  Like I said, I'm hoping to avoid permanent soldering and rather be able to use crimp-on bullet connectors, but that's gonna depend on available room. Soldering and shrink is definitely the best way to stay compact. Thanks for that site Schmidt. Looks like they've got some nice little ones there. |
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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tank_post142
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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2011, 11:52:29 AM » |
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once the wires are through the bars you can re-solder the original connector back on. that way your not even dealing with the harness side of the plug. also you will be able to just unplug 2 large plugs (plus 3 bullets)and remove the bars later.
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« Last Edit: July 18, 2011, 11:54:25 AM by tank_post142 »
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I got a rock VRCCDS0246 |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2011, 11:59:05 AM » |
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once the wires are through the bars you can re-solder the original connector back on. that way your not even dealing with the harness side of the plug. also you will be able to just unplug 2 large plugs (plus 3 bullets)and remove the bars later.
Actually yeah, that sounds like a good plan. |
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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The Anvil
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« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2011, 01:23:28 PM » |
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Biker's Choice is the make. BC-40-0286. Quality is good, but they don't come with 7/16 bolts. But I'm happy with them.
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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RUDE DOG - Steelers
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« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2011, 02:04:25 PM » |
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Ive got a nice set of "Drag Specialties" drag bars finished in black chrome hanging in my garage. Too far of a reach for me so I changed them out. Anyone interested?
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Fudd
Member
Posts: 1733
MSF RiderCoach
Denham Springs, La.
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« Reply #13 on: July 19, 2011, 08:42:28 AM » |
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Anvil
How tall is your riser height, from top of the tree to handlebar center? Your setup looks a bit farther back than one I tried out. I liked the hand placement, but it had me leaning forward too much. Yours may have enough reach for me.
Someday, I may try to talk you into some tape measure distances to fixed points. That will help me decide if I want to make the modification, too.
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 Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #14 on: July 19, 2011, 01:17:13 PM » |
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Anvil
How tall is your riser height, from top of the tree to handlebar center? Your setup looks a bit farther back than one I tried out. I liked the hand placement, but it had me leaning forward too much. Yours may have enough reach for me.
Someday, I may try to talk you into some tape measure distances to fixed points. That will help me decide if I want to make the modification, too.
Crapp Fudd, I just took em off this morning. I decided that I didn't like the way the throttle lines ran so I decided to put the stockers back on while I order up all the new lines and cables. But they're going back on soon I hope. The riser is 8" though. I can take more measurements of the bars themselves or I can just get them to you when I re-install everything. |
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Logged
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Fudd
Member
Posts: 1733
MSF RiderCoach
Denham Springs, La.
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« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2011, 09:22:52 PM » |
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No worries mate
It'll be at least September before I can get around doing mine. You should have all the bugs worked out by then.
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Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie |
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