Question for the gun nuts

[..]

USED Smith & Wesson .357 magnum with a 4" barrel, nickel finish with a soft black grip.

How do I tell model and year of manufacture?

How do I inspect to see if the firearm has been used and abused.

Would you buy one if the price was right?

[Tundra]

Open the cyl. and look at the frame closely (with glasses) it's stamped.

[Hoser]

Sounds like a model 19.  Adjustable sights?  Hoser

[..]

Sounds like a model 19.  Adjustable sights?  Hoser

Don't know. Haven't had it in my hand yet.

[JimC]

Is it nickel or stainless? makes a difference in pricing. There are tons of places on the internet to get an idea of pricing, try a google search when you find the model and serial number.

They are very good guns, carried one for years.

The way I checked them was to (make sure its empty!) dry fire the gun,  then do not release the trigger, without letting the trigger up check the cylinder for play, it should be tight and not moving at all. Other than that, note how smooth the trigger pulled, and the overall condition of the finish. Not much goes wrong with them.

Nice thing about that gun is that if you do not want the power and kick of the .357 you can just put .38 rounds in there, it works with both equally well.

Would I buy it if I was looking for a gun?  YES, if I wanted a home protection weapon, it is a little;e large for concealed carry, but doable.

[vanagon40]

Check out this thread.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430

Post a photo and serial number (use XXX for the last three digits if you are concerned) in the revolver forum at THR and someone ID the revolver PDQ.

Post the serial number here and I might be able to ID it.

[designer]

Is it nickel or stainless? makes a difference in pricing. There are tons of places on the internet to get an idea of pricing, try a google search when you find the model and serial number.

They are very good guns, carried one for years.

The way I checked them was to (make sure its empty!) dry fire the gun,  then do not release the trigger, without letting the trigger up check the cylinder for play, it should be tight and not moving at all. Other than that, note how smooth the trigger pulled, and the overall condition of the finish. Not much goes wrong with them.

Nice thing about that gun is that if you do not want the power and kick of the .357 you can just put .38 rounds in there, it works with both equally well.

Would I buy it if I was looking for a gun?  YES, if I wanted a home protection weapon, it is a little;e large for concealed carry, but doable.

I don't recall the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, but if you have feeler gages you can gage the gap and see if the frame has stretched due to unnecessary high pressure reloads.  Cylinger rotation is very important as if there is gap between the barrel and cylinder little pieces of powder and lead have a tendency to come out that gap. 

[Bobbo]

The way I checked them was to (make sure its empty!) dry fire the gun,  then do not release the trigger, without letting the trigger up check the cylinder for play, it should be tight and not moving at all. Other than that, note how smooth the trigger pulled, and the overall condition of the finish. Not much goes wrong with them.

In addition to this method, with the trigger released, pull the hammer all the way back, and again check for play in the cylinder.  It should be tight with no play as well.

Check the breach of the cylinder for any markings or "eyelashes" that are commonly caused by hot loads.

[Jess Tolbirt]

open the cylinder and look at the fire line on the frame where the barrel is attached,, it should not be worn there,, thats an idea of how many times its been fired...

[Pete]

Along with the model number on the frame i usually another number. Like 19-2.
The second number indicates  a modificaton change. The higher number usually indicates newer manufacture, lower older.

"timing" Is an important issue with any used revolver. So work the action very slowly, the cylinder should still lock up, then work the action quickly, the cylinder should still lock up. The bolt, which is the half moon projection from the inside lower frame must completely engage the half moon cut in the cylinder in both cases.

Check the hand (arm inside the frame that moves the cylinder) and where the hand interfaces with the cylinder (back center of the cylinder) for smooth action for and signs or damage.

Check the barrel inside and out for ANY abnormalities (ie swelling, small cracks, corrosion, rust imperfections. Perform the same check on each chamber of the cylinder.

When operating the action the trigger and hammer should operate smoothy and cleanly.

The cylinder should spin easily when open and move without binding when working the action.

Check the firing pin (on the hammer or in the frame) it should have a round smooth tip for primer contact.  

The  cylinder to barrel gap should 4 to 6 thousands. Usually 6.

Good luck

[Jess from VA]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_%26_Wesson_Model_19

http://www.smithandwessonforums.com/forum/s-w-revolvers-1945-present/757-price-check-please-model-19-5-4-barrel-nickel.html

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?200413-REDUCED-400.-Nickel-S-amp-W-19-4-4-inch-barrel-square-butt-FTF-Central-Texas

http://www.gunsamerica.com/987523704/Guns/Pistols/Smith-Wesson-Revolvers/Full-Frame-Revolver/S_W_19_19_3_Nickel_357_Mag_4_Pinned_Bl_21822.htm

http://singleactions.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=da&action=display&thread=5131

If it turns out to be a Model 27 on an N frame (not the 19 K frame) it will be worth more, and heavier.

http://24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/26/main/204813/type/thread

[Chrisj CMA]

The way I checked them was to (make sure its empty!) dry fire the gun,  then do not release the trigger, without letting the trigger up check the cylinder for play, it should be tight and not moving at all. Other than that, note how smooth the trigger pulled, and the overall condition of the finish. Not much goes wrong with them.

In addition to this method, with the trigger released, pull the hammer all the way back, and again check for play in the cylinder.  It should be tight with no play as well.

Check the breach of the cylinder for any markings or "eyelashes" that are commonly caused by hot loads.

Not true.  Even brand new S&W revolvers with a good lock-up will have a tiny bit of play at full lock.  You just dont want it sloppy.  And .006 is optimal forcing cone to cylinder gap with .010 being the max and no more than .002 variance when you push the cylinder foward and then push it to the rear and check again.

Good luck

[Bobbo]

The way I checked them was to (make sure its empty!) dry fire the gun,  then do not release the trigger, without letting the trigger up check the cylinder for play, it should be tight and not moving at all. Other than that, note how smooth the trigger pulled, and the overall condition of the finish. Not much goes wrong with them.

In addition to this method, with the trigger released, pull the hammer all the way back, and again check for play in the cylinder.  It should be tight with no play as well.

Check the breach of the cylinder for any markings or "eyelashes" that are commonly caused by hot loads.

Not true.  Even brand new S&W revolvers with a good lock-up will have a tiny bit of play at full lock.  You just dont want it sloppy.  And .006 is optimal forcing cone to cylinder gap with .010 being the max and no more than .002 variance when you push the cylinder foward and then push it to the rear and check again.

Good luck

I am not a gunsmith.  I am passing on advise from a professional gunsmith who worked with St. Louis police for many years.  He used that as one indicator of wear.  All service weapons checked out with no noticeable play.  If some play is acceptable, he simply didn't mention it.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

The way I checked them was to (make sure its empty!) dry fire the gun,  then do not release the trigger, without letting the trigger up check the cylinder for play, it should be tight and not moving at all. Other than that, note how smooth the trigger pulled, and the overall condition of the finish. Not much goes wrong with them.

In addition to this method, with the trigger released, pull the hammer all the way back, and again check for play in the cylinder.  It should be tight with no play as well.

Check the breach of the cylinder for any markings or "eyelashes" that are commonly caused by hot loads.

Not true.  Even brand new S&W revolvers with a good lock-up will have a tiny bit of play at full lock.  You just dont want it sloppy.  And .006 is optimal forcing cone to cylinder gap with .010 being the max and no more than .002 variance when you push the cylinder foward and then push it to the rear and check again.

Good luck

I am not a gunsmith.  I am passing on advise from a professional gunsmith who worked with St. Louis police for many years.  He used that as one indicator of wear.  All service weapons checked out with no noticeable play.  If some play is acceptable, he simply didn't mention it.

I've never owned a Smith and Wesson but I just checked my well worn Dan Wesson on which I've set the cylinder gap at .004. Hammer down and trigger held back it has some side to side play but end play is almost undetectable. It has a little more play both ways when the hammer is cocked.

I would ask the owner before dry-firing. Some don't like you to it without a snap-cap. I look for a tight feeling lockup as mentioned above.

Then with the cylinder flipped out I look at the inside top of the frame just above the chamber for flame cutting. Some amount of it is normal with larger magnums but you shouldn't see much of it in a .357

Just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.

[BigAl]

Ask for a test drive.

As with any mechanical device.

The condition should be really easy to determine.

Is is it pitted out in the barrel.

Pull the Trigger, with the trigger fully depressed see if youcan turn the cylinder or check for slop.

If it looks good and shoots good, check to see what a new unit is going for.

Offer them less than they are asking.

Again take it for a test drive with the proper safety equipment.

And advantage to this weapon is you can load it with 38's or 357 ammo with no ill effect.

Rather cheap, not like a .500 beast.

MOre one shot kills recorded with a 357 Magnum than any other hand gun.

.357 Ballistics are absolutely wonderful.

My favorite round to shoot or protect with.

[..]

Thanks everyone.

I'll have the gun in my hand on Thursday to check it over.

[X Ring]

Hey Britman, on the right side of the frame behind the cylinder and between the hammer and trigger, you will see a line that starts near the top of the hammer, drops straight down then goes forward under the cylinder window.  Drag a fingernail across that line lightly.  It shouldn't catch.  If it does, someone didn't know what they were doing when they removed it and sprung it.  That can only be fixed at the factory.  Also take the grips off and look up where the grip frame meets the rest of the frame.  See if there are any gouges in the the underside of the side plate or the other side of the lockwork area.  If there are, hand the gun back to the owner and walk away.  Again, someone removed the side plate and didn't know what they were doing.

rooster the hammer and try to push it forward with your thumb WITHOUT touching the trigger.  If the hammer falls don't walk, run from this gun.  Someone has performed a trigger job and screwed it up bad.  Trigger pull single action, with the hammer cocked, should be about 5-6 lbs.  Trigger pull double action, using the trigger only to rooster the hammer should be around 12-14 lbs.

Turn the revolver around and look at the line from the hinge up.  The part that connects the cylinder to the frame and is the hinge is called the yoke.  The seam between the yoke and frame should not have a gap.  

Try and rotate the cylinder with the hammer down.  It should be pretty tight.  It can have a little movement.  What you're checking is how bad the bolt is worn.  

Now try and move the cylinder fore and aft.  Again a little movement is acceptable.  You're checking to see how the part of the yoke that fits into the cylinder is worn.  Should be no more than .002".  Checking the cylinder gap like ChrisJ described will accomplish the same thing.  

Now squeeze the trigger.  You should do this double action.  You're checking to make sure the cylinder locks up before the hammer falls.  Keep the trigger back and check each chamber's and lockup.  They should all be the same.  

Now open the cylinder.  Check the line the bolt has made on the cylinder.  It should be finish wear only.  There should not be a groove.  

Look at the bolt sticking up through the bottom of the cylinder window.  Make sure the corners where the sides meet the top are even and square.  It should not have a slope from one side of the gun to the other.  

Check the star on the back of the cylinder.  It should not have any burrs or obvious strange wear patterns.  

Push the extractor rod several times.  It should not bind.  

Spin the cylinder and watch it rotate from the side.  It and the extractor rod should not wobble as if they are out of round.  

Check the recoil plate, the rear surface of the cylinder window.  There should not be any strange wear patterns on it.  

Check the forcing cone, the part of the barrel across the gap from the cylinder.  Make sure there's no damage.  

Turn the gun around and look at the muzzle.  There should be no damage and the bore exit should be even and round.  It should not be teardrop shaped.  That would indicate someone didn't use a muzzle guard and their cleaning rod flexed and rubbed against the muzzle.  If the muzzle is worn unevenly the gun will not be accurate no matter what you do or what ammo you use.  

Last use something; your thumbnail, a white piece of paper, etc; to reflect light up the barrel from the forcing cone.  The rifling should be nice and sharp.  There shouldn't be any pitting.  If you see a ring around the inside of the barrel, hand the gun back and walk away.  This was caused by a stuck bullet being struck by another bullet.  

Good luck.  I would really feel more comfortable if you had someone familiar with revolvers check it out for you.

Marty

[Tundra]

Wow Marty, good information, very thorough, nice job

[X Ring]

Wow Marty, good information, very thorough, nice job

When I first got into competitive pistol shooting the gunsmith that built my guns thoroughly schooled me on what to look for so he had as little repair work to do as possible.  I'm happy to pass on what I have learned.     

Marty

[..]

It's a model 686-4 Serial # CAY3XXX and it's mine.

Came with 70 rounds, Hogue grips and a Sidekick holster.

It will replace the 380 as my bed side weapon

[czuch]

Having a 380 at bedside is "nuts".
I dont have any guns.
 Nocturnal, uninvited, one word,,,,,,,,,,Jack Russell.

[..]

Having a 380 at bedside is "nuts".
I dont have any guns.
 Nocturnal, uninvited, one word,,,,,,,,,,Jack Russell.

Why?

I have pretty good aim and it would give you a hell of a knot on yer head 

[X Ring]

Damn good revolver Britman.  Used to carry one on duty when I started out as a Deputy Sheriff.  I recommend you use 125 grain .38 Special +P Jacketed Hollow Points.  You can get a less expensive at Wally World made by Winchester in their USA line.  I would use Speer Gold Dots.  The 686 is built to handle a full time diet of Magnum loads but most people can't handle it.

Marty

ETA:  Get yourself a couple of speed loaders.  The two big names are HKS and Safariland.  HKS speed loaders release the bullets by turning a knob.  Safariland releases by pushing down on the body.  I prefer Safariland because pushing down on something after inserting the rounds in the chambers is easier to do under stress than trying to turn a knob, imho.  Try them both, decide which one you prefer and practice with them. 

[Spirited-6]

Having a 380 at bedside is "nuts".
I dont have any guns.
 Nocturnal, uninvited, one word,,,,,,,,,,Jack Russell.

Hey Guy, I guess you did`nt read about the Motel Robber and the "22" did you. 

[Psychotic Bovine]

I don't agree that using a .380 for home defense is nuts.  Easy control, no punishing muzzle blast, not a bad cartridge.  I read somewhere that more .22's are used for defense than any other, so a .380 is fine. 
I have a Russian Makarov and would feel fine using it for home defense, or concealed carry if no other options.  The 9mm Mak round is close to .380, ballistics-wise.

[..]

Damn good revolver Britman.  Used to carry one on duty when I started out as a Deputy Sheriff.  I recommend you use 125 grain .38 Special +P Jacketed Hollow Points.  You can get a less expensive at Wally World made by Winchester in their USA line.  I would use Speer Gold Dots.  The 686 is built to handle a full time diet of Magnum loads but most people can't handle it.

Marty

ETA:  Get yourself a couple of speed loaders.  The two big names are HKS and Safariland.  HKS speed loaders release the bullets by turning a knob.  Safariland releases by pushing down on the body.  I prefer Safariland because pushing down on something after inserting the rounds in the chambers is easier to do under stress than trying to turn a knob, imho.  Try them both, decide which one you prefer and practice with them. 

Came with a HKS. I've been practising. I like it.

[bigfeet]

well its probably an "N" frame . And abused ? Scary but /////  pull the hammer back (unloaded) and gently push forward and slightly upward and see if the hammer slams to fire ! without ever touching the trigger !!!!!!!!

[..]

well its probably an "N" frame . And abused ? Scary but /////  pull the hammer back (unloaded) and gently push forward and slightly upward and see if the hammer slams to fire ! without ever touching the trigger !!!!!!!!

Nope. Solid as a rock. The guys on the forum loaded me up with detaild of how to thoroughly check the gun.

The Hogue grips fit my 3XL paws perfectly.

[czuch]

AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I'M NOT ANVIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I dont mean to start a bash.
380 is just so slow. The penetration and laydown factor isnt what I prefer.
I like to cut em in half .
I did read the hotel lady one and even made a comment.
I promise I wont come over without calling first, and I'll have a 12 pack of something fizzy and cold.

[X Ring]

well its probably an "N" frame . And abused ? Scary but /////  pull the hammer back (unloaded) and gently push forward and slightly upward and see if the hammer slams to fire ! without ever touching the trigger !!!!!!!!

No.  A 686 is a L frame.  If you had looked at my earlier post on checking out a revolver you would have seen I advised Britman to do that and why.

Marty

[X Ring]

Damn good revolver Britman.  Used to carry one on duty when I started out as a Deputy Sheriff.  I recommend you use 125 grain .38 Special +P Jacketed Hollow Points.  You can get a less expensive at Wally World made by Winchester in their USA line.  I would use Speer Gold Dots.  The 686 is built to handle a full time diet of Magnum loads but most people can't handle it.

Marty

ETA:  Get yourself a couple of speed loaders.  The two big names are HKS and Safariland.  HKS speed loaders release the bullets by turning a knob.  Safariland releases by pushing down on the body.  I prefer Safariland because pushing down on something after inserting the rounds in the chambers is easier to do under stress than trying to turn a knob, imho.  Try them both, decide which one you prefer and practice with them. 

Came with a HKS. I've been practising. I like it.

Get another. 

Marty

[..]

Damn good revolver Britman.  Used to carry one on duty when I started out as a Deputy Sheriff.  I recommend you use 125 grain .38 Special +P Jacketed Hollow Points.  You can get a less expensive at Wally World made by Winchester in their USA line.  I would use Speer Gold Dots.  The 686 is built to handle a full time diet of Magnum loads but most people can't handle it.

Marty

ETA:  Get yourself a couple of speed loaders.  The two big names are HKS and Safariland.  HKS speed loaders release the bullets by turning a knob.  Safariland releases by pushing down on the body.  I prefer Safariland because pushing down on something after inserting the rounds in the chambers is easier to do under stress than trying to turn a knob, imho.  Try them both, decide which one you prefer and practice with them. 

Came with a HKS. I've been practising. I like it.

Get another. 

Marty

6 in the gun and six as back up. If I need more than that I'm in big trouble. 

[X Ring]

People get fumble fingered under stress and loose the ability to make fine movements.  If you drop a speedloader and have another, you can grab it instead of trying to find the one you just dropped.

Marty