440hd installation

[westsidevalk]

I just purchased a set of 440HD for my 99 tourer and I am wondering if the installation is similar to the procedure for the OEM.   The shocks I have are 12 inch and I am wondering will the eyelets still line up with the mounting holes which are designed for 13 inch oem shocks? Is the actual eyelet to eyelet length what changes when shock length changes or is it something else. I did a search and didnt find an answer...thanks

[Sodbuster]

The "eyelets" will line up just fine - the only difference will be that the bike will set lower - I'm assuming you'll have the bike on a lift to R/R the shocks - that being said you will be raising the swingarm to install them

[westsidevalk]

Thanks!

I have a lot to learn about how suspensions work!

I will be using a lift.

[Sodbuster]

You'll also want to realize that your bike is going to sit more upright when on side stand so keep that in mind when parking it !!

[westsidevalk]

Will keep that in mind.

Is the installation of the progressives much different than the OEM?

For the oem shocks w bike on the lift  I slid behind the right side  bag with a 12mm wrench for the bottom and 14 for the top and was done and reverse to install.

[Gear Jammer]

I'd take off the bags before doing this.  Just my .02.............

[Jess from VA]

It's much easier with the bags off, just four easy bolts each side.  Use the OE hardware or whatever PS gave you.  My memory is vague, but I think they come with an assortment of bushings and you must use the right ones. Follow the directions with the shocks (and look at your manual).  I always start with the bottom first. After the bottom is mounted, use the lift to line the top mount with the top shock eye and slide on. Don't torque anything down till all four bolts are 3/4 started... they do have torque values.

Do yourself a favor and squirt a little oil up in the top of each shock where they are turned for adjustment.  There is no turning tool and turning by hand gets hard soon after install, if not right away (and a soft strap wrench will turn further with no bags on).  They come on the softest setting and my HDs have stayed there (solo at 185 and light gear), but if you think you think a few turns, do it with the bags off.  You might even ride it a bit with them off while you are figuring out where you want them. If they are very hard to turn with the bike on the ground, using the lift to just take some weight off them will make turning easier.  If you ride 2 up most of the time, adjust for that.... otherwise adjust for you knowing a turn or three may be necessary based on passenger and gear.  

Do not get wheel/mag cleaner or S100 on the chrome without immediate washing. (crap!)

They have a lifetime warranty IF YOU SAVE THE RECEIPT.   (they should for the price)

[westsidevalk]

Thank you for your suggestions. I will re-read and follow carefully. I weigh 230 and my wife about 150 plus gear...so around 400 lbs.

I appreciate your concise and detailed explanation of key points for the install.

I will not have the benefit of lifetime warranty as I am not the original owner. I just bought them new tonight on eBay for 350 bucks. Too good a deal to pass up.


when you say use the lift to line up the top shock eye does that mean to let the back tire come into contact with the ground to lift the swingarm up?

[Jess from VA]

when you say use the lift to line up the top shock eye does that mean to let the back tire come into contact with the ground to lift the swingarm up?

First, to remove the OE shocks, use the jack to straighten the bike up, but with the rear tire lightly on the ground (taking weight off the back end).  You don't want to pull the OE shocks with the tire off the ground because then the shocks would be carrying the whole swingarm, driveline, rear tire and rim weight. Once the shocks are off, install the new ones at the bottom.  Then if you are not already lined up on top, use the jack to get lined up.... the rear tire will be on the ground the whole time.

Get a tube of copper antiseize and put a dab on all your bolts before reinstall.

If you don't already know, you will need a lift adapter... I made mine.  http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm

Oh, and while the bags are off and the bike up on the lift there is no better time to clean everything up back there, and once the new shocks are on (or before you remove the old ones), polish the rear wheel (with it off the ground so you can spin it by hand while working)(and when the bike is up in the air with rear wheel off the ground, you will make everything more stable with one or two jack stands placed under the forward engine guards).   It's also the perfect time to change the rear end 80/90 wt gear oil with synthetic.

If the 440 shock seller was a private party, you could always contact him and ask for the receipt if he has it.  The warranty is not officially transferable, but if you have a receipt to show PS, they will honor it.

You did not say if the wife goes with you all or half the time.  If not, at 230, I guestimate you could leave the shocks at the softest setting, or maybe turn the shock top adjustment one full turn for you alone.... maybe another turn or two for her and gear.  If experimenting ride setting including her weight, take the bike for a short spin with her aboard, and go looking to ride thru a few potholes to see if you bottom out.  Remember with 12" shocks you have one inch less suspension travel available and should err toward a stiffer setting (but no need for a bone jarring ride).

The 440s can adjust 10 full 360* turns, from softest to hardest.  There are little thread marks that show at the top as they are turned, supposedly one thread per one full turn.  I cannot see these marks well and do not trust them, so whenever I make an adjustment, I do a minimum single full 360* turn at each adjustment, and record my turns in my shop book.  Plus, you do not know what the prior owner did, or what setting they are on when you get them.... so look at the skinny threads at the tops when you get them.  If threads are showing, I'd try to back them down to the softest setting (no threads showing) (off the bike) to begin, then start with one full turn (no more than two) each side to start ride testing.

[Sodbuster]

If your lift is similar to mine you would be raising/lowering the wheel/tire with a separate floor jack under the tire

[Jess from VA]

For just a shock swap, is that necessary?  Couldn't you just work with the jack alone, using the floor to raise the tire?

[westsidevalk]

Thank you for all your suggestions and instructions.

I am grateful for your explanations.

I have a metal lift adapter I bought on ebay a few years ago but the bike never seemed as stable as I would like.  I had the bike up for oil changes, cleaning, and  first installing cobras (and than uninstalling cobras). Putting the jack stands under the front guards sounds like a good solution.

Thanks for the explanation of how to keep the tire lightly on the ground. I now see the purpose of the jack is mainly to straighten the bike up and allow for movement of the swing arm, rather than lifting the entire bike off the ground.

Thanks for the tip about changing final drive and wheel cleanup sounds like a good idea. I will do a search for the specifics on changing the final drive. Mainly I am not sure how to extract the old fluid.


My wife rides with me most of the time regarding the setting for the shocks.

Thanks for the suggestion on contacting the eBay seller for the receipt.

[YoungPUP]

Changing the final drive oil is easy. just pull the drain plug.  refill tothe threads with the bike over on the kickstand.  Get a good synthetic 80w90  and you'll be good to go.

[Sodbuster]

For just a shock swap, is that necessary?  Couldn't you just work with the jack alone, using the floor to raise the tire?

You are absolutely correct .... but you'd want to be careful with the floor jack depending on how sensitive the release valve is ??

[Jess from VA]

Westside, the highest purpose of this forum is to help each other out (as opposed to pushing each other down the stairs    ). 

Glad to help, but please remember the Shoptalk section of this forum has about 75% of the answers to usual maintenance questions, and it's always a good idea to look there before asking questions....(actually it helps you ask better/harder questions).  Here's the Shoptalk link to the final drive gear oil change. 

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/carldriveoil.htm

Get any good synthetic 80/90 (75-90) gear oil.  It's only five oz's or so, so a quart bottle will last a long time.  I went thru the trouble of carefully measuring the exact amount out into one of the wife's pyrex measuring cups (smack), only to discover that all you have to do is refill it to the point of overflow and cork it up.  The advice above to fill to overflow on the side stand is incorrect, fill to just overflow in the vertical position... though the other way may be OK.  The final drive has a vent on top, a fill hole and a drain hole.... do not yank off the top vent cap in error, it is not made to come off.

It is tricky to get heavy oil in the vertical hole... some use a tube/hose and funnel... with the bags out of the way, and with the jack to move the swing arm out of the way, you can make access easier... a small funnel (or piece of plastic) to fill to overflow (rag on ground), grab the fill hole cap quickly and screw on, and wipe up the excess will do it. Measuring unnecessary.

Do this too... periodically.  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/carlbreather.htm

If the wife is a usual passenger, I would set the shocks to two full turns above the softest setting to start.  Don't forget to spray a penetrating oil up inside the top adjusters.

BTW, always leave the kickstand out when working on the jack... if the jack hydraulics fail or you bump the release accidentally you have a fair chance it will go left onto the kickstand.  With the jack stands in place, it would not fall over, but leave the kickstand out anyway.... it's easy to forget when done and lowering the bike off the jack. 

[westsidevalk]

Thanks again...I just paid for the shocks on ebay and sent a message to the seller about the reciept

[YoungPUP]

Sorry about the mixup about the sidestand.   The worst thing is I just changed my final drive oil and did it the right way. then I go and give you the wrong directions.....

[Jess from VA]

Tain't no big thang. 

Anyone entering the arena of advice risks being shown wrong.  After a couple times, I try a little harder to not to be wrong, but it happens.   Collectively, we really have an amazing level of expertise and experience on this board.