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Brian
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« on: July 24, 2011, 02:11:37 PM » |
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.jpg) Okay guys, I think I have this posting a picture procedure now. Has anyone had this issue with their rear E3? Only 8,000 miles on this. Dealer is checking with Dunlap rep to see about a new one. |
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bigdog99
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Posts: 584
1/1/2011 86,000 miles
Kouts Indiana
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« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2011, 02:43:48 PM » |
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took my valk to a dunlop check statiuon at a wingding once and asked whats wring with this tire? they just bcalmly said, "there's nothing wrong with the tire". i calmly said  get my bike off that stand. had a CT ever since. coming up on 20,000 mile. and ITS STILL FLAT IN THE MIDDLE.  |
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 VRCC#31391 VRCCDS0239 |
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Fudd
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Posts: 1733
MSF RiderCoach
Denham Springs, La.
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« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2011, 02:45:16 PM » |
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My E3 looked exactly like your's at 10k miles. By the time I had 14k it looked like this.  It still had a ways to go to get to the wear indicator bars. |
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 Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie |
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2011, 02:52:53 PM » |
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I'm wondering ,what air pressure are you guy's running?
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Fudd
Member
Posts: 1733
MSF RiderCoach
Denham Springs, La.
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« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2011, 03:10:11 PM » |
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I'm wondering ,what air pressure are you guy's running?
I tried to keep 38psi. Only once did I find it as low as 32psi. I know it looks like under-inflation, I just don't see how. |
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Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie |
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ValkFlyer
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« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2011, 03:29:36 PM » |
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I'm wondering ,what air pressure are you guy's running?
I tried to keep 38psi. Only once did I find it as low as 32psi. I know it looks like under-inflation, I just don't see how. Believe me...38 is still not enough I run from 42-44 in my rear E-3. 20k miles and it looks nothing like that, and I've owned 3 sets of them. Be sure you invest in a quality tire gauge. I check mine routinely, don't let the pressure drop. I also, make sure I'm checking them when cold and in the coolest part of the day. |
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98valk
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« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2011, 03:57:22 PM » |
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[ Believe me...38 is still not enough I run from 42-44 in my rear E-3. 20k miles and it looks nothing like that, and I've owned 3 sets of them. Be sure you invest in a quality tire gauge. I check mine routinely, don't let the pressure drop. I also, make sure I'm checking them when cold and in the coolest part of the day. +10, I posted on a thread a few wks ago about tire pressure and using the right type of tire pressure gauge that has good accuracy, not using a pencil gage, and was made fun of, by a few. most likely the same ones that change their syn oil every 2k miles, because its cheap insurance. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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The Anvil
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« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2011, 04:15:41 PM » |
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I agree about using a good quality gauge, but pencil gauges are often just as accurate as dial gauges and when they are they're better to keep on the bike with you as they're less sensitive to shock and vibration and won't go out of cal as easily. You just need to keep them clean because dirt and gummy crap can affect how the slide operates. In fact, I have a Snap-On pencil gauge 10-150psi that's passed cal every year for the past five years. I'm routinely having to replace dial gauges after only a couple of years (or more if it's dropped) when they don't pass cal.
BTW, is that E3 a bias ply? If so it means that by nature of the design the sidewall will flex more than the tread. You counteract that (especially on a heavier bike) with higher pressure and as people have already said, small differences in pressure can make a big difference in wear. Radials suffer the effects of pressure variance less so than bias plys. This goes for cars and trucks as well. I used to run bias-plys on my Jeeps and had to monitor pressure religiously. If that's a radial then maybe it's a carcass issue?
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« Last Edit: July 24, 2011, 04:31:15 PM by The Anvil »
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Steve K (IA)
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« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2011, 04:51:21 PM » |
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The E3 is a radial. And I agree with ValkFlyer. At 20,000 miles my rear E3 doesn't look that bad. I would say not enough air. Same here...40 front and 42-44 in the back.
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 States I Have Ridden In |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #9 on: July 24, 2011, 04:53:31 PM » |
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The E3 is a radial. And I agree with ValkFlyer. At 20,000 miles my rear E3 doesn't look that bad. I would say not enough air. Same here...40 front and 42-44 in the back.
Well they make an E3 bias. I know it's not real popular, but you never know. Some people like to be different. |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Fudd
Member
Posts: 1733
MSF RiderCoach
Denham Springs, La.
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« Reply #10 on: July 24, 2011, 04:55:35 PM » |
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I'm wondering ,what air pressure are you guy's running?
I tried to keep 38psi. Only once did I find it as low as 32psi. I know it looks like under-inflation, I just don't see how. Believe me...38 is still not enough I run from 42-44 in my rear E-3. 20k miles and it looks nothing like that, and I've owned 3 sets of them. Be sure you invest in a quality tire gauge. I check mine routinely, don't let the pressure drop. I also, make sure I'm checking them when cold and in the coolest part of the day. I believe you......now, but I had to be convinced. My previous tire, a Metz, wore out in the center while using 42-44psi at around 14k miles. I'm on a Michelin car tire now running 40 psi. |
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Save a horse, ride a Valkyrie |
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Brian
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« Reply #11 on: July 24, 2011, 05:03:07 PM » |
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I routinely run 40-41 psi on the rear as this is what Dunlop recommended, and I use a commercial garage style gauge used by truckers. I have yet to compare it with another type other than a pencil style and it was the same reading. Notice the cupping is only after the side splits. The splits appear to be more of a tearing rather a slice. I ride over the same railroad tracks twice a day to and from work. This is the only hazard I have rode over in the 8,000 miles. No issues with tires on the last bike that went the same route.
This E3 is a radial.
Should they not offer any help I might be going over to the dark side too. I hope to hear something this week.
I will check my tire gauge with a different style.
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The Anvil
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« Reply #12 on: July 24, 2011, 05:10:46 PM » |
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Should they not offer any help I might be going over to the dark side too. I hope to hear something this week. Well, I've got Avons on mine. 6K miles on the rear and only a slight flat spot with plenty of tread left. I see no problem getting 10K miles out of it. You know, if you don't really WANT to put a car tire on there, something to think about... |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Quicksilver
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« Reply #13 on: July 24, 2011, 05:24:33 PM » |
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  Seems to be a common problem. I believe it's cause is tire pressure below 40 psi. I started the rear at 36 psi for 3000 miles, after that up to 40 psi, but by then it was too late, bad cupping on rear. Better on front because it was kept at 40 throughout. I figure I got about 15000 miles on them though so I'm not complaining. It is odd tire wear though. Just swapped out my e3's for Metzler |
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #14 on: July 24, 2011, 05:54:10 PM » |
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I'm running E3's as well, when I had them installed, the Hiperformance motorcycle shop said VERY specifically to run them at 44psi on the Valk. That doing otherwise would Greatly shorten their lfe, due to irregulay tread wear. The guy explained that at lower pressures the tire would flatten out on the sides while cornering, thus wearing it in that type of pattern, ( why I replaced the tires that were on the bike when I bought it.)
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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designer
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« Reply #15 on: July 24, 2011, 06:02:27 PM » |
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Dangit, after reading this string I walked outside and looked at what the dealer inflated my wheels when they installed them. 36 front and rear. Got about 3000 on them with even wear, but pumped them up to 40/42 front/rear just to be on the safe side. I've heard this on the VTX board also. Seems no one runs the manufacture pressure on larger bikes. Interested to see if it does anything to my ride feeling.
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2002 Valkyrie Std
K&N Filter, Audiovox Cruise, I/S bags and trunk, Cee Bailey shield +2, ECT mod, radiator pods, driving lights, rattlebars kick shifter ,I/S ICM
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B
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« Reply #16 on: July 24, 2011, 06:48:50 PM » |
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Okay guys, I think I have this posting a picture procedure now. Has anyone had this issue with their rear E3? Only 8,000 miles on this. Dealer is checking with Dunlap rep to see about a new one.
I dont know if it's a difference in the center and side compounds or what ... Ive had 2 do that; but I fixed that problem with a Car Tire.  |
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"if I ride the morning winds to the farthest oceans, even there your hand will guide me." TLB-Ps.139:9-10
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PhredValk
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« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2011, 08:45:44 PM » |
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She had E3s on her when I bought her last year. I got 13K miles out of them, PO probably had 4K before that. Both flattened on the bottom, both 42#. Hated the wobble from the front so went with a D404 rear tire, and went dark side on the rear. Bike is stable as heck now.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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Warlock
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« Reply #18 on: July 24, 2011, 09:11:35 PM » |
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I'm wondering ,what air pressure are you guy's running?
I tried to keep 38psi. Only once did I find it as low as 32psi. I know it looks like under-inflation, I just don't see how. Believe me...38 is still not enough I run from 42-44 in my rear E-3. 20k miles and it looks nothing like that, and I've owned 3 sets of them. Be sure you invest in a quality tire gauge. I check mine routinely, don't let the pressure drop. I also, make sure I'm checking them when cold and in the coolest part of the day. Even running 42 to 44 here in Mississippi our roads are filled with the grey rocks which wears the heck out of tires. David |
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 I don't want to hear the labor pains, I just want to see the baby |
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98valk
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« Reply #19 on: July 25, 2011, 03:23:39 AM » |
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I agree about using a good quality gauge, but pencil gauges are often just as accurate as dial gauges and when they are they're better to keep on the bike with you as they're less sensitive to shock and vibration and won't go out of cal as easily. You just need to keep them clean because dirt and gummy crap can affect how the slide operates. In fact, I have a Snap-On pencil gauge 10-150psi that's passed cal every year for the past five years. I'm routinely having to replace dial gauges after only a couple of years (or more if it's dropped) when they don't pass cal.
BTW, is that E3 a bias ply? If so it means that by nature of the design the sidewall will flex more than the tread. You counteract that (especially on a heavier bike) with higher pressure and as people have already said, small differences in pressure can make a big difference in wear. Radials suffer the effects of pressure variance less so than bias plys. This goes for cars and trucks as well. I used to run bias-plys on my Jeeps and had to monitor pressure religiously. If that's a radial then maybe it's a carcass issue?
A pencil gage is only accurate to the atmospheric conditions that were present when it was calibrated. "These tire gauges use a fully geared, solid brass precision movement with bronze bourdon tube. Unlike piston-plunger-type gauges, the bourdon tube movement is not affected by changes in temperature, humidity, altitude or air stream contaminants." http://www.getagauge.com/faq.cfm |
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Logged
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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The Anvil
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« Reply #20 on: July 25, 2011, 06:34:55 AM » |
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I agree about using a good quality gauge, but pencil gauges are often just as accurate as dial gauges and when they are they're better to keep on the bike with you as they're less sensitive to shock and vibration and won't go out of cal as easily. You just need to keep them clean because dirt and gummy crap can affect how the slide operates. In fact, I have a Snap-On pencil gauge 10-150psi that's passed cal every year for the past five years. I'm routinely having to replace dial gauges after only a couple of years (or more if it's dropped) when they don't pass cal.
BTW, is that E3 a bias ply? If so it means that by nature of the design the sidewall will flex more than the tread. You counteract that (especially on a heavier bike) with higher pressure and as people have already said, small differences in pressure can make a big difference in wear. Radials suffer the effects of pressure variance less so than bias plys. This goes for cars and trucks as well. I used to run bias-plys on my Jeeps and had to monitor pressure religiously. If that's a radial then maybe it's a carcass issue?
A pencil gage is only accurate to the atmospheric conditions that were present when it was calibrated. "These tire gauges use a fully geared, solid brass precision movement with bronze bourdon tube. Unlike piston-plunger-type gauges, the bourdon tube movement is not affected by changes in temperature, humidity, altitude or air stream contaminants." http://www.getagauge.com/faq.cfmAnd even with that minor variation in reading (minor compared to the variance caused by temperature swings) it's often a better choice for your bag than a dial gauge because of durability and simplicity. |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Hoser
Member
Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
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« Reply #21 on: July 25, 2011, 06:45:47 AM » |
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The E3 is a radial. And I agree with ValkFlyer. At 20,000 miles my rear E3 doesn't look that bad. I would say not enough air. Same here...40 front and 42-44 in the back.
Well they make an E3 bias. I know it's not real popular, but you never know. Some people like to be different. This one, a dunny american elite, still looks a lot like this at 8K miles 38 psi, I weigh 160 and ride solo. Hoser  |
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« Last Edit: July 25, 2011, 06:49:49 AM by Hoser »
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/ |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #22 on: July 25, 2011, 08:29:09 AM » |
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Okay guys, I think I have this posting a picture procedure now. Has anyone had this issue with their rear E3? Only 8,000 miles on this. Dealer is checking with Dunlap rep to see about a new one. It's those two horizontal cracks in the tire that I would worry about. That's not right! And it looks like the tire is separating there! *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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The Anvil
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« Reply #23 on: July 25, 2011, 09:11:30 AM » |
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This one, a dunny american elite, still looks a lot like this at 8K miles 38 psi, I weigh 160 and ride solo. Hoser [/quote] How's the handling compared to radials? |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Hoser
Member
Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
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« Reply #24 on: July 25, 2011, 09:47:08 AM » |
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This one, a dunny american elite, still looks a lot like this at 8K miles 38 psi, I weigh 160 and ride solo. Hoser How's the handling compared to radials? [/quote] I can't tell any difference, but I live in Kansas  The last set went 20k, changed them when I got to the wear bars. The front is a D407f bias, most Harleys use that for OEM. The back is an oem replacement for the rear on thier screaming eagle series. I change them in pairs, they both wear about the same rate. Hoser  |
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/ |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #25 on: July 25, 2011, 09:58:49 AM » |
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This one, a dunny american elite, still looks a lot like this at 8K miles 38 psi, I weigh 160 and ride solo. Hoser How's the handling compared to radials? I can't tell any difference, but I live in Kansas The last set went 20k, changed them when I got to the wear bars. The front is a D407f bias, most Harleys use that for OEM. The back is an oem replacement for the rear on thier screaming eagle series. I change them in pairs, they both wear about the same rate. Hoser [/quote] Yeah the tires on my FLSTF were bias plys. For the most part the bike handled just fine with them but I've always wondered if switching to radials on the bike would have changed anything. The bike had an annoying tendency to deck out sooner than it should at some times and later than it should at others. I attributed it to possible sidewall flexing but it can also be road camber, speed etc. The next tire change was gonna be to radials but I would up selling the bike before that time came. |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Mr Steve
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« Reply #26 on: July 25, 2011, 01:20:50 PM » |
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My last set of tires were E3. One late night/early am riding rt 23 in Otis area I noticed the tires squealing a little every turn (especially down that hill to rt 20, for those familiar with the area). That was my first sign they had cupped. Think they had 5k on them. Except for the cupping they looked good, nowhere near wear bars. I won't ride with cupped tires, so I put Cobras on. So far I like them, but no idea yet on longevity issues (only been 1k or so). I did feel one oddity. They felt, smaller, like the E3 had a slightly higher sidewall. Although, maybe I was just imagining things right after the change.
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Brian
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« Reply #27 on: July 25, 2011, 03:06:33 PM » |
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Okay guys, I think I have this posting a picture procedure now. Has anyone had this issue with their rear E3? Only 8,000 miles on this. Dealer is checking with Dunlap rep to see about a new one. It's those two horizontal cracks in the tire that I would worry about. That's not right! And it looks like the tire is separating there! That's exactly my issue with them. My dealer stated that his tire rep was going to be in the store this Wednesday. I already mentioned that this picture has been posted here on this forum and will announce the outcome for all to read about. The first thing they have ready commented on was tire pressure. How can that be when it's been checked numerous times with two different gauges and I keep it where they recommend. Has anyone tried a larger diameter MC tire and what were the results? *** |
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JetDriver
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« Reply #28 on: July 26, 2011, 08:07:49 PM » |
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The first thing they have ready commented on was tire pressure. How can that be when it's been checked numerous times with two different gauges and I keep it where they recommend.
If I'm understanding you correctly, what we have found is that we do NOT run our pressures at what they recommend. Running the pressures in the neighborhood of 40 front and 44 back provide the best wear/traction compromise. |
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Brian
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« Reply #29 on: July 31, 2011, 05:58:58 PM » |
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Well guys, my dealer and his tire rep came thru for me. :cooldude:They offered to replace it at 50% off of the store sale price. $110 for a new E3 and of course the labor was on me, so it was time to inspect, clean and lube the splines, I would rather do anyway so I know it was done. All is well running just the moly 60 that Honda sells. Got the bike back on the road just before a heavy thunderstorm opened up. No problem, we sure need the rain here.  It feels good to be back up and running. By the way, the service guys told me to run 42 to 43 psi. |
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JetDriver
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« Reply #30 on: July 31, 2011, 06:25:36 PM » |
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Glad to hear you've got it fixed, and that the manufacturer stood behind their product- at least 50% behind it!!  Do you know what the problem was with your E3? |
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Brian
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« Reply #31 on: August 01, 2011, 06:07:29 PM » |
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Jet driver, I have not heard back and my not but since I am member of their riding club I see these people all the time so I may receive feed back. If this E3 does not perform I plan on going over to the darkside. This same tire has gone up $60 from the last time I bought it, both of which they were on sale.
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