Are the extra miles worth the savings?

[dieselrambud]

Hello all. Been gone for about 5 years after I sold my 1999 I/S and now I'm in the market for another. My question to the knowledgeable: Everything else being equal, which is the better deal? An I/S with 70,000 miles for $7500 or one with 20,000 to 30,000 miles for $9000 or $9500? Both equipped with the same accessories. I know the extra miles aren't reallly hurting anything, just like the idea of fewer miles my girl has been with someone else. And yes, money is a concern, but $2000 won't break me. Thanks

[Ricky-D]

All being the same I would gravitate towards the bike that is the newest.

I also would be favorable to the bike that has the least accessories added.

Naturally how they run and how the motor sounds should be an important consideration.

***

[98valk]

the seller who can produce maintenance records is who u should go with IMHO.
Also try to find out if most of the miles are hwy or city. hwy miles are always easier than city/traffic jams etc., esp for the clutch. I'd always take 60k hwy miles over 30k city miles.
And stay away from the one who produces drag strip time slips.  

[PhredValk]

With all things being equal, I think I'd go with the higher mileage bike. Not only is it less expensive, but it has spent more time not sitting in a shed somewhere. 30K miles is only 2500 miles a year; which probably translates to several years not ridden at all.

Many of the threads on this board involve problems with a 'New to me Valk' that has sat idle for a few years...
Fred.

[old2soon]

Hello all. Been gone for about 5 years after I sold my 1999 I/S and now I'm in the market for another. My question to the knowledgeable: Everything else being equal, which is the better deal? An I/S with 70,000 miles for $7500 or one with 20,000 to 30,000 miles for $9000 or $9500? Both equipped with the same accessories. I know the extra miles aren't reallly hurting anything, just like the idea of fewer miles my girl has been with someone else. And yes, money is a concern, but $2000 won't break me. Thanks

  Is riding them for more than a mile or two an option?? Iffin it are-take em out and put at least 60 or 70 miles on each to get it warmed up and you know the rest of the drill. RIDE SAFE.

[dieselrambud]

So if I go with a bike with 70,000 to 80,000 on it, what kind of things should I be looking to have to do to it before I start making some good trips? Or is it just tires, gas, and oil and GO?

[Pete]

I would keep looking for and IS with 20,000 for $7000 to $8000 or less. Or go with the less mileage assuming all else is similar.

As for the setting issue that is usually resolved with a carb cleaning. If you are comfortable doing that you are ahead of the game.  If you expect to pay for it adjust you offer price to compensate.

[John U.]

I agree with Pete. If the lower mileage bike will idle without the choke on,  the slow jets are probably not too bad.
Check the tank for rust. Corrosion in general is another potential problem with a bike that has been stored in a less than ideal environment.

[PhredValk]

Either way, I would take the rear end apart. Check the drive splines for wear, clean and lube with molly paste and replace the 3 O-rings. Same with the drive shaft and pinion cup; inspect, clean and lube. Change the gear oil in the pumpkin, check the brake pads and bleed the lines, including clutch.

Lots of work, an afternoon if you have the parts and materials on hand, but sets you up for years of fun and enjoyment.
Fred.

[Pete]

Check the tank for rust. Corrosion in general is another potential problem with a bike that has been stored in a less than ideal environment.

+1 on the check for rust, gas tanks can be very expensive.

[Jess Tolbirt]

if the one for 7500 is mine, you can rest assured that the splines and tank and everything else is almost like new,,,even all the vacuum lines are new,,,at 8250 you even get all the extra chrome that you will want too...

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Bought my I/S almost 5 yrs ago from a guy that had no maintaince records at all. It had 59K on it and I bought it for a song (4500) bucks. That being said I changed all fluids and all wheel bearings, did the spline greasing and started my maintaince records at this point in time. Fast forward to today , at 94k alt failed, normal problem, new alt. 100K changed belts and set valves. Stripped a driveshaft coupler about 120K (my fault let it go unattended to long. Now I have 135K on her and ride her almost everyday.
   I'm not gonna tell you which one to buy, but I'ld rather have one that was ridden than one that was parked. Milage is not a problem with these bikes.

[dago mooserider]

I'd stay away from both, as they are a bit overpriced. 9 g even for a low milage bike is out of line. If you can get the higer milage bike for like 6-6.5 then your talkin.

[Doc Rogers]

First post here. Just got my 2000 IS with 12,900 miles on it this Saturday for $7,000 even. Runs like a top. Original owner put 4500 miles on it in 8 years then the guy I bought it from put the rest on the last 3 years.
A few nicks, chips and scratches but otherwise a sound bike. Going through the process of changing all of the fluids over the next few weeks.
I have just over 500 miles on it so far and have found no issues thus far.

Keep an eye out there. you can find good, low-mileage ones out there for around 7k.

[Jabba]

I gave $6000 for a 32K mile IS last May.  I have had her 15 months or so.  10K miles.  I neglected the pinion cup, and JUST replaced a driveshaft and pinion cup.  

Now I need to tear my standard apart and check that...

Damn two Valks!!!  2 x the maintenance!!  

Jabba

[9Ball]

With all things being equal, I think I'd go with the higher mileage bike. Not only is it less expensive, but it has spent more time not sitting in a shed somewhere. 30K miles is only 2500 miles a year; which probably translates to several years not ridden at all.

Many of the threads on this board involve problems with a 'New to me Valk' that has sat idle for a few years...
Fred.

The low mileage isn't always a case of sitting for long periods.  Some of us have two or more bikes, some for different uses.

My Valkyrie is reserved for long distance riding and rarely is it ridden around town.  On the other hand, my Rocket 3 is the around town bike.

I agree with the other posters that say look for maintenance records and signs of poor mechanic skills...much more important to me than the odometer reading.  And if the bike did sit for a while, then pulling the carbs to clean them and replace a bunch of old tubing and o-rings is a piece of cake...not a difficult job at all.

YMMV...

[dieselrambud]

Picked this baby up Saturday. Probably paid too much for it but the body is scratch free, maintenance was done regularly, and a brand new set of E3s. 20,500 miles=$9300.00.  I'm as happy as I can be. Changed the oil over to synthetic yesterday and topped off the clutch fluid, just barely low. Gonna check the rear gear soon but something tells me after spending some time with the guy who owned it that everything is cool. Best part and why I paid what I did was only thing done to it was some dually iso highway pegs and I really wanted this 2001 color. Didn't want any performance mods-coming over from a Harley this thing has plenty of power-and no holes drilled in the body. Of course I ordered the little lady some transformer boards for it and probably gonna go with a Corbin seat.

[dieselrambud]

Well, gotta figure out the pic posting from photobucket first

[dieselrambud]

[Jabba]

Well, all right!!

Congrats to YOU!!!


Jabba

[PAVALKER]

Looks nice..... can't wait for some nice pics out in the sunlight 

That seat looks quite comfy as is...      I never had a stock seat on mine, but did pick one up just in case I want to revert to stock.  I don't think mine looks that scooped out for some reason.  I just might have to try that seat on it for the heck of it.

[Novavalker]

My 99 Interstate had 15k on it when I bought in Aug 06. It now has 75k.
I just bought an Ultimate seat at InZane. The vast majority of riders at InZane have switched to Ultimate seats. After my ride home it was a wise decision.
The technical information here is generally good.
A low mileage bike doesn't mean your going to have fewer problems.
My alternator crapped out at 20,000 miles.  I replaced the petcock too. It wasn't holding a vacuum anymore and I figured a 12 year bike could use a new fuel valve. Getting stranded with an Interstate is no fun. Some here will tell to buy a Pingle fuel valve.  I think they own stock in Pingle.
Check you Petcock valve ASAP.
Welcome to the VRCC.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

For $700.00 more you could have gotten this one all maintence just done with brand new brakes and tires and it's blinged out nose to tail with mostly hard to find nolonger made Hondaline goodies.

[dieselrambud]

Yea,  it's a good looking bike Joe, but I can't stand studs, saddlebag racks, rails, or chrome side covers. Just my personal likes, to each his own. Had Cobras on my last Valkyrie, think I will leave this one quiet.

[Chiefy]

Congrats Diesel, nice ride.  You did good!

We all have different ideas and wants in a bike.  My standard was parked next to a 1 yr newer tourer that had 20k more miles on it.  The tourer was almost stock.  The standard had all the bling I wanted, and then some.  I picked the standard because of the bling and the lower miles.  I could have dickered more, but she was calling my name, and the dealer does right by me.  Worth every single solitary penny to me, and that's what matters.  The bling saved me a lot of money, because I was going to put most of it on anyway.