Build a hitch?

[rich_kildow]

I've done the requisite searching and know just about everything I think I can about installing hitches, but has anybody built one?  I like the look of the XF6 hitches and I have a welder, a good drill press, a press brake, and access to a plasma cutter. 

http://www.xf6-custom.com/partpages/8tripletree.html

They just appear to be the 2 flat side plates with 2 holes to bolt through to the fenders and a place to bolt/weld the cross bar, the cross bar itself, and the hitch tube.  It seems like I should be able to make one of these out of a 4'x4' sheet of 1/4" plate (could maybe get away with 3/16") for about $100. 

Am I missing something that would need to be accounted for beyond mocking up about 100 times with cardboard before cutting the pieces and good welds?

[PhredValk]

I downloaded some plans a while ago;
Fred.

[Ferris Leets]

The dwg. does not give an angle or offset distance for making the side plates.  So you would really need to do a cardboard template.  Also the ???? in the edge to edge distance.

[CASABROKER]

I bought my bike with the a hitch fabbed on it. It's solid tube steel with mounting plates welded on  running inside the pipes.  It hooks upto the pipe bolts and the 2 big bolts the are above the pass. foot pegs, it also has tube steel supports that bolt up to the last bolt on the bag supports.  very clean can hardly see it. Imagine a big u from the 2 pipe bolts wrapping around the rear tire with the receiver tube  welded on  .

[rich_kildow]

So definately possible.  If one were to have access to a printer capable of printing 11x17, you could print that drawing out so it scaled 1:1 with the measurements...that could be the template right there. Sounds like I have yet another project to work on before school starts, because my garage wasn't full enough.

[sugerbear]

if you have access to a press, put a crimp or two lengthways in the long piece.

really helps with the side to side movement.

did with mine anyway.

had a fabricator build two, total cost was about $125. for one

took the bike to him and he made his own measurement.

[rich_kildow]

Good idea on the crimp.  I was trying to think of ways to brace it laterally so it can't bang into the fender.

[Fudd]

     (could maybe get away with 3/16")

I have a home made hitch.  I purchased the 3 pieces already cut out off ebay.  The sides are 3/16th and bottom (ball plate) is 1/4th" steel.  I has more side play than I would have liked.  If I ever make another, I will use 1/4" steel through out.

I don't feel my hitch is dangerous.  It may even smooth out some bumps in the road that the trailer hits.  It just has more side flex than other hitches.

[Ferris Leets]

     (could maybe get away with 3/16")

I have a home made hitch.  I purchased the 3 pieces already cut out off ebay.  The sides are 3/16th and bottom (ball plate) is 1/4th" steel.  I has more side play than I would have liked.  If I ever make another, I will use 1/4" steel through out.

I don't feel my hitch is dangerous.  It may even smooth out some bumps in the road that the trailer hits.  It just has more side flex than other hitches.

I am a fabricator by trade and have made a lot of similar things.
     Probably not dangerous,  3/16" is pretty solid.  The only thing to worry about would be the flex causing fatigue fracture.  I have not seen one but there should be room to add a stiffener to either the inside or outside of the plate.  It would not have to be very large. a piece 3/4 x 1/4 would be enough to stop any flex.  1 x 1/4 would be better if there is room.  If I was building one.  I actually am going to because I already own a good trailer.  I would us the 1/4" plate and put a 1/4 x 1 stiffener all the way from between the top bolts to the bottom.  Only needs to be welded about 1" in 3" , Welds not staggered , the intermitent weld will actually result in a better job.  It lessenes the warpage and puts in less heat.  If there isn't room to go full length.  I woud put a piece on the inside as far as it would fit and then put a pieces on the top and or bottom that lapped the other stiffeener.  More is better but if you can lap them by 1" you will get almost the strength of a continuous bar that is on one side.
     If you are not an experience weldor, do a couple of test welds on samples.  Especialy if you are using a MIG.  The mig can have a really bad habit of laying down what looks like a perfect weld but actually only fused on one side.

[bscrive]

I would have liked this template 8 years ago.  I had to build mine from scratch.  Already had the receiver and the metal only cost me $10 at the time.  I built mine from 3/16" plate and I have never had a problem.  It does flex from side to side a bit but nothing that you will not get used to.

[GOOSE]

you can go to all the trouble of doing this, and doing that, but when it comes right down to it.....YOU ARE NOT going to find or make a hitch that will look or perform as well as xf6's......there was alot of thought and mechanical effort put into that particular product that darryl sells,  and installed, his hitch looks good on the bike as well as pulls the trailer properly.   

[vicrider]

Okay, the three things I need on my Valk before I think about replacing the Vic with the Valk are bags, luggage rack, and of course the hitch. The first two are simple enough but for the hitch the only ones I find have a receiver on them. I like the HitchDoc on my Vic, which is all chrome and has a mount for the ball. No receiver. This is what I'd prefer and haven't found it yet. Any suggestions or make my own and have it chromed.

[rich_kildow]

Goose, I don't doubt at all that the XF6 hitch is a great product and would serve my purpose better than most while looking good doing so.  That being said, I have more time than I have money (and I don't have a ton of time) and prefer to do things myself before paying somebody else to do them for me.  Unless those are not pictures of the actual product on the XF6 website, the design couldn't get much simpler.

Vicrider, just out of curiosity, why a ball vs a receiver?

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I think the plans your showing are some I built about 9 yrs ago. I can't see the photos as I'm using a computer at work and most photos are blocked. I field fitted each part as I was building it  so I didn't really do a good job at documenting the measurements. I built mine out of 3/16 plate but went back and added a 1/4in by1 in piece of plate on the back side as a stiffener later.
   The hitch is real easy to mock up with cardboard  or 1/4 plywood until you get everything fitting right and then just trace it out on to the plate.
  If I built another hitch I would use 1/4 plate  on everything. Also I would turn the flanges to the outside to make them easier to get to and lengthen the bottom cross piece to make up the difference in the side to side measurement.

[Walküre]

Okay, the three things I need on my Valk before I think about replacing the Vic with the Valk are bags, luggage rack, and of course the hitch. The first two are simple enough but for the hitch the only ones I find have a receiver on them. I like the HitchDoc on my Vic, which is all chrome and has a mount for the ball. No receiver. This is what I'd prefer and haven't found it yet. Any suggestions or make my own and have it chromed.

Vic - HitchDoc DOES make one, for the Valk, without the receiver. It can be found fairly often on ebay, and usually goes a lot cheaper than the receiver type. They are $310 for non-receiver, $387 for receiver, new on HitchDoc website. You are the exception, most prefer the receiver, as they don't want the ball hanging out there all the time, and it's a big hassle to remove it all the time. However, I do have a buddy, who conscientiously uses anti-seize on his, so he can remove it easily, and puts an American flag mount on it, whenever he's not towing. I've thought about making a flag mount for my receiver type, and already have the chunk of steel to do it - just not the time!

you can go to all the trouble of doing this, and doing that, but when it comes right down to it.....YOU ARE NOT going to find or make a hitch that will look or perform as well as xf6's......there was alot of thought and mechanical effort put into that particular product that darryl sells,  and installed, his hitch looks good on the bike as well as pulls the trailer properly.   

If you like the receiver hanging out, all the time! What's the sense of having a receiver, if it isn't "hidden" when not in use? Sorry, I don't think it's the "best" hitch out there, for that reason. Plus, although stainless is nice, it scratches a LOT easier than chrome, and I don't like the thought of polishing out scratches all the time, either.

Personal taste.

Here's the hitchdoc, like you are looking for:



XF6 Hitch:

[rich_kildow]

I agree on the receiver being hidden.  I started mocking mine up and I am going to set the receiver tube a bit deeper behind the fender...there is plenty of room back there. 

[Walküre]

Rich - the Hitch Doc receiver, is vertically mounted, and the ball part is "L" shaped. I can take some pics of the hitch, on the bike, and post them, if you'd like. I think I would do one that comes down vertical, also. Hides it extremely well.

A buddy gave me a serious snowblade mount, for his mower, that has some solid square stock. I'm going to make a hitch that will fit this one, that can be used to haul a small cooler, for picnics, etc. Save me hooking up the trailer, unless I absolutely need it...

Let me know on the pictures, if anyone wants them.



Roger

[GOOSE]

rick_kildow.....the hitch you see on xf6 website ARE ACTUAL PICTURES OF HIS HITCH.  the red/black valk is darryl's personal bike, and the picture of the burgundy/cream valk is my personal bike.  you see....i do run this particular hitch on my bike.    i've had all the other hitches out there at one time or the other, but i'm really kind of partial to this one.....it's polished/doesn't rust/cleans up with a damp rag/is stronger than most of the other ones out threre/and it is made by a member of this group.

[PhredValk]

If I ever install a hitch, bought or built, I want a receiver hitch. You can fabricate or buy receiver trays big enough for picnic baskets or small packs for day rides; and I can put one of those boat propellers in it for city riding.
Fred.

[rich_kildow]

Very good point with the receiver accessories.  In the past on trips we haven't needed a full trailer but an extra bag (15 lbs) would have been nice.  One of those small receiver carriers would provide a spot for a lighter bag without raising the center of gravity.

[Bugslayer]

Very good point with the receiver accessories.  In the past on trips we haven't needed a full trailer but an extra bag (15 lbs) would have been nice.  One of those small receiver carriers would provide a spot for a lighter bag without raising the center of gravity.

I've really enjoyed my cooler rack. During these HOT days, it nice having cold drinks and sandwich fixings on hand while on the road.

[gordonv]

Looks like you have to worry about hidding those turn signals though.

[rich_kildow]

I like the lights in that hitch carrier.  I replaced the license plate frame/signals assembly with a kuryakyn laydown frame with built in lights and a clear alternatives LED board in the taillight.  As long as I don't cover my taillight I should be good.  A nice set of LED's in he carrier frame would look pretty nice, though.

[vicrider]

Vic - HitchDoc DOES make one, for the Valk, without the receiver. It can be found fairly often on ebay, and usually goes a lot cheaper than the receiver type. They are $310 for non-receiver, $387 for receiver, new on HitchDoc website. You are the exception,
If you like the receiver hanging out, all the time! What's the sense of having a receiver, if it isn't "hidden" when not in use? ...

Thanx Walkure, I'll start looking. I have a hitch ball protector that's a doll's head with earing and bandana that I like too much not to have on all the time. If I went with a receiver hitch I agree the hidden receiver by Hitch Doc like the one on my B-I-L/s HD is much nicer then the receiver sticking out there in the open. The thing it doesn't give you tho is the option to run a cool cooler carrier like Bugslayers. I also think the chroming on the Hitch Doc model is very high quality and adds to the bike, not detracts like a painted hitch.

ps...Old ladies never like my ball protector.

[Bugslayer]

Looks like you have to worry about hidding those turn signals though.

That's why I added the LED's.  It plugs in just like trailer lights. I also move my license plate when I'm using the rack. Works great..  

[Walküre]

Nice job, Bugsy!! Don't mind if I use the concepts, do you? Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!

R

[Bugslayer]

Nice job, Bugsy!! Don't mind if I use the concepts, do you? Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!

R

Thanks. My neighbor gets all the credit for the metal work. It measures 11" x 17".     
He used links from a chain around the sides for mounting points for straps or a cargo net. I picked up the cooler from Wal Mart. Its a perfect fit.
Help yourself.

[Ferris Leets]

From a fabricator.   
    That is really nice work.  Is that paint or powder coat?

[Jeff K]

I have an old Big bike parts hitch. I can say that after time the receiver tube ends up pointing downward. It will slowly twist the plate it it welded to. I believe it is 1/4" I straightened it again just before this trip. 

[Walküre]

Any way to maybe add some gussets? To keep it from bending downwards?

[Bugslayer]

From a fabricator.   
    That is really nice work.  Is that paint or powder coat?

Thanks. I agree. He does good work.. It's paint.

[Bugslayer]

Any way to maybe add some gussets? To keep it from bending downwards?

 I've never had any problems with my Big Bike Parts hitch bending down. But with my Unigo trailer hooked up, the receiver part had a little flex to it. The same guy that built my cooler rack pretty much rebuilt the hitch. He wasn't real crazy about the original welds, so he ground them down and re-welded them. He also added gussets to both sides, re-enforced both sides where the hitch pin goes through, and replaced the nut that was "welded" in the bottom of the receiver tube. It's probably "over kill", but that's fine with me.... It's rock solid.

[Walküre]

It's probably "over kill", but that's fine with me.... It's rock solid.

NO SUCH THING!! At least, when it comes to safety!!

Looks good! I'd say he knew what he was doing. There are welders, and there are fabricators. I like to put myself with the latter, but I'm always learning.

[Bugslayer]

It's probably "over kill", but that's fine with me.... It's rock solid.

NO SUCH THING!! At least, when it comes to safety!!

Looks good! I'd say he knew what he was doing. There are welders, and there are fabricators. I like to put myself with the latter, but I'm always learning.

Metal work is something I'd love to learn. It's been probably 25 years since I've done any welding. I've got a Lincoln stick welder, but my garage isn't wired for 220. That's on my "too do" list.

The trailer I pull causes more stress to the hitch than a conventional ball hitch. Any movement from the hitch effects the stability of the trailer. Adding the extra support to the hitch really helped how it pulls.

[OldOneEye]

Nice trailer
What is the name / brand / whatever on that trailer, I would like one of those

[Mildew]

Built mine 7 years ago never had a problem. I put high strength bolts in mine but the regulars are probly fine.

[Bugslayer]

Nice trailer
What is the name / brand / whatever on that trailer, I would like one of those

Thanks. It's a Unigo Trailer. http://www.uni-go.com/

[Bugslayer]

Built mine 7 years ago never had a problem. I put high strength bolts in mine but the regulars are probly fine.

Looks good!   

[Ferris Leets]

Built mine 7 years ago never had a problem. I put high strength bolts in mine but the regulars are probly fine.

  You used a solid bar for the hitch?  Way overkill.

    As to over kill on welding.    Too much is as bad as to little.  The extra heat cause a larger HAZ (heat affected zone) The results are a weakening of the metal and propagation of underbead cracks.  Anything that is a safety related item should be done by someone who actually knows what they are doing.  That said, most of the welders that you find in garages are capable of good strong welds.  The problems come because the weldor does not know how to use it.  Someone who knows how to weld can show you what and how to do a good weld very quickly.  I enjoy showing people what is really involved in making a good strong weld.  In about 15 minutes I can show you what you should be looking for.  I am not saying I can teach you to be a nuclear certified weldor but, you will know what to look for while making the weld.
    In my opinion the worst are the MIG welders.  The first job I gave my son to do when he was 14 was to weld some hinges.  When he was done it was beautiful.  When we moved the joint the hinge came completely off with the weld.  The arc had bounced off of the base metal and did not penetrate at all.  The bead was nearly perfect but not burned into the base metal.  Another example.  We had a fellow who was certified at one time to weld on subs.  A woman came in with a broken ironing board and the boss gave it to him to TIG weld.  He did a fine job.  We stood the table up and it collapsed.  I pulled the weld metal off with my fingers.  Beautiful bead but he did not melt the base metal at all, try to do that on purpose.

[Walküre]

  You used a solid bar for the hitch?  Way overkill.

I may be wrong (but I doubt it!), but judging by the tag on the bar, mostly hidden by the receiver, as well as having seen a LOT of them, when I was getting ready to build mine (never did build it, but got "real ready"!), I would say it was "store-bought" exactly like that. Every single one I have seen, in any store, has been solid. At least, the smaller 1-1/4" ones. I did find some that weren't solid, by googling, but think solid is pretty much the norm. I would also venture a guess, that the receiver tube itself was store-bought, as well, since it has the "collar" around the end.

Again, I could be blowing smoke...

R