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Author Topic: What to do while wheels are off  (Read 2139 times)
rich_kildow
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Posts: 75

Spooner, WI


« on: August 04, 2011, 01:09:25 PM »

I need new tires (either the spare set of E3s that came with the bike or a car tire on the back) and want to do all the maintenance/mods necessary while the wheels are off.  Bike has 23k. I know that I should do these things on the rear:

3 O-rings: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

Double roller bearing: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/5204_bearing_mod.pdf

Lube splines with MoS2: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm

Check/replace brake pads

Check u-joint

Is there anything else I should do while the wheels are off?  I'm not looking to add new shocks or anything, just preventative maintenance and mods that will prevent headaches down the road. 
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1998 Valkyrie Standard
1998 Polaris XLT Touring
1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console

"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten."  Calvin Coolidge
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2011, 01:35:29 PM »

Check/replace brake pads

I replaced my pads and bled the system with I got my bike (24K)... it was kind of
hard to push the pistons back into the calipers. Later, my rear caliper locked up,
there was nasty contamination (which I think I pushed back in there when I changed
my pads...) back up inside of it when I got it apart.

Anywho... I've now formed the opinion that caliper pistons really need to be
cleaned well at pad-change time. I take my calipers off now and "rebuild" (clean and change out the seals)
them when I put in new pads. There's next to nothing in a caliper. When you clean
the part of the piston that you can see, you've done a pretty good job of it, but there's
still a ring of contamination that goes back to, or maybe beyond, the first (dust) seal...

Taking the calipers off is more of a pain (especially in the rear) than just replacing the pads.
There's guys on here who have removed the pads, then carefully mashed on the brakes
a little to make the pistons emerge further from the caliper and cleaned the hidden goo
off the pistons that way, without hardly doing any more work than normal. If you're clumsy
like me, that sounds like a recipe for a big mess (brake fluid eats paint).

The Valkyrie's brakes work really well when they're in good shape.

-Mike
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2011, 01:52:00 PM »

Change out clutch fluid. How old is the antifreeze?? Look at the shifter seal. If you see a hint of oil-it's starting to go. Cheap and easy fix. Battery and ground connections. Check the tightness of the carb clamps-3 per carb. Check the exhaust header bolts. GO REAL EASY HERE. They only need like 6 or 7 ft lbs to be tight. They break easy. uglystupid2 Pull the timing belt cover and check general conditions in there. Get out your inspection mirror and get real nosy. It be your scoot. More might come to me later-or not. 2funny RIDE SAFE.
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The Anvil
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Derry, NH


« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2011, 02:13:11 PM »

Sit on it and pretend it's a hover bike.
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bigfish_Oh
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Posts: 404


Allis

West Liberty,Ohio 43357


« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2011, 02:39:36 PM »

borrow someone else's bike?
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rich_kildow
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Posts: 75

Spooner, WI


« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2011, 03:43:05 PM »

My wife will mock me endlessly if she catches me acting out the bike scene from Star Wars in the garage. 

I've got a buddy with a V-max I've been itching to ride...might be a good time!
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1998 Valkyrie Standard
1998 Polaris XLT Touring
1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console

"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten."  Calvin Coolidge
Daniel Meyer
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The State of confusion.


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« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2011, 03:54:45 PM »



# 20 in that article is absolutely critical for long lived splines.

Might also check the pinion joint if you haven't done that.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
valkyriemc
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2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2011, 04:43:03 PM »

If not mentioned previously, I'd pull those shocks and get a look at the bushings...
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2011, 04:56:48 PM »

All metal valve stems.
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rich_kildow
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Posts: 75

Spooner, WI


« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2011, 05:17:17 PM »

Who is the supplier of those aftermarket shock bushing on here? 

I seem to remember somebody making aftermarket dampers or something to smooth out what little drivetrain lash there is...can somebody point me towards that as well?
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1998 Valkyrie Standard
1998 Polaris XLT Touring
1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console

"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten."  Calvin Coolidge
gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2011, 06:33:16 PM »

Gary the bushing guy.

There is another, and I'm sure someone else will post that. Sorry, I don't have the email handy, but you can do a search.
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PhredValk
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2011, 10:58:28 PM »

It's a great opportunity to clean all those hard to reach places, especially if you have saddlebags. Check the dampaners in the rear wheel, clean and lube everything. You could pull the pumpkin and clean, check and lube the drive shaft, pinion gear and cup.
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
X Ring
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VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2011, 01:50:17 AM »

Perform the Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod on the rear wheel.   Cool

Marty
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rich_kildow
Member
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Posts: 75

Spooner, WI


« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2011, 07:40:46 AM »

Double row bearing mod was the top of my "preventative modifications" list!

What kind of grease goes of everything?  I know Moly Disulfide paste on the splines, but what about everything else?  I'd love to do a serviceable u-joint, but that will have to wait for winter. 

I've been in contact with Gary and I'll be posting a thread to see if I can round up 10 people for drive wheel dampers. 
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1998 Valkyrie Standard
1998 Polaris XLT Touring
1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console

"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten."  Calvin Coolidge
X Ring
Member
*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2011, 10:12:47 AM »

Double row bearing mod was the top of my "preventative modifications" list!

What kind of grease goes of everything?  I know Moly Disulfide paste on the splines, but what about everything else?  I'd love to do a serviceable u-joint, but that will have to wait for winter. 

I've been in contact with Gary and I'll be posting a thread to see if I can round up 10 people for drive wheel dampers. 

I use Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease.  It's got moly in it.  A tip I picked up from Chrisj is to burnish the surface of all the splines; wheel flange, final drive, pinion cup & driveshaft; then add grease.

Marty
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PhredValk
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2011, 10:35:12 AM »

Could you please describe the 'burnish' procedure. From the Wikipedia article I wouldn't know where to begin.
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
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