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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2011, 01:35:29 PM » |
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Check/replace brake pads
I replaced my pads and bled the system with I got my bike (24K)... it was kind of hard to push the pistons back into the calipers. Later, my rear caliper locked up, there was nasty contamination (which I think I pushed back in there when I changed my pads...) back up inside of it when I got it apart.
Anywho... I've now formed the opinion that caliper pistons really need to be cleaned well at pad-change time. I take my calipers off now and "rebuild" (clean and change out the seals) them when I put in new pads. There's next to nothing in a caliper. When you clean the part of the piston that you can see, you've done a pretty good job of it, but there's still a ring of contamination that goes back to, or maybe beyond, the first (dust) seal...
Taking the calipers off is more of a pain (especially in the rear) than just replacing the pads. There's guys on here who have removed the pads, then carefully mashed on the brakes a little to make the pistons emerge further from the caliper and cleaned the hidden goo off the pistons that way, without hardly doing any more work than normal. If you're clumsy like me, that sounds like a recipe for a big mess (brake fluid eats paint).
The Valkyrie's brakes work really well when they're in good shape.
-Mike
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old2soon
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« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2011, 01:52:00 PM » |
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Change out clutch fluid. How old is the antifreeze?? Look at the shifter seal. If you see a hint of oil-it's starting to go. Cheap and easy fix. Battery and ground connections. Check the tightness of the carb clamps-3 per carb. Check the exhaust header bolts. GO REAL EASY HERE. They only need like 6 or 7 ft lbs to be tight. They break easy.  Pull the timing belt cover and check general conditions in there. Get out your inspection mirror and get real nosy. It be your scoot. More might come to me later-or not.  RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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The Anvil
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« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2011, 02:13:11 PM » |
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Sit on it and pretend it's a hover bike.
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent. But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent. Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep. In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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bigfish_Oh
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Posts: 404
Allis
West Liberty,Ohio 43357
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« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2011, 02:39:36 PM » |
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borrow someone else's bike?
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2012 HD Road King Classic, Teq sunrise/HD Orange 2009 HD Nightster,orange 1974 CB550F,org 1999 Valkyrie,orange/Black (20K) 2009 GMC 3500 Duramax CC Dually 4wd (new) 1957 WD45 Allis Chalmers Grandpa bought new 1982 CBX (new) 1980 CBX (6K) 1979 CB750F (new) 1958 Lambretta TV175 (Dad's new) 4
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rich_kildow
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« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2011, 03:43:05 PM » |
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My wife will mock me endlessly if she catches me acting out the bike scene from Star Wars in the garage.
I've got a buddy with a V-max I've been itching to ride...might be a good time!
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1998 Valkyrie Standard 1998 Polaris XLT Touring 1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console
"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten." Calvin Coolidge
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Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2011, 03:54:45 PM » |
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# 20 in that article is absolutely critical for long lived splines. Might also check the pinion joint if you haven't done that.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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valkyriemc
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Posts: 392
2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited
NE Florida
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« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2011, 04:43:03 PM » |
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If not mentioned previously, I'd pull those shocks and get a look at the bushings...
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Veteran USN '70-'76
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2011, 04:56:48 PM » |
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All metal valve stems.
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rich_kildow
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« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2011, 05:17:17 PM » |
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Who is the supplier of those aftermarket shock bushing on here?
I seem to remember somebody making aftermarket dampers or something to smooth out what little drivetrain lash there is...can somebody point me towards that as well?
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1998 Valkyrie Standard 1998 Polaris XLT Touring 1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console
"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten." Calvin Coolidge
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2011, 06:33:16 PM » |
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Gary the bushing guy.
There is another, and I'm sure someone else will post that. Sorry, I don't have the email handy, but you can do a search.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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PhredValk
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« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2011, 10:58:28 PM » |
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It's a great opportunity to clean all those hard to reach places, especially if you have saddlebags. Check the dampaners in the rear wheel, clean and lube everything. You could pull the pumpkin and clean, check and lube the drive shaft, pinion gear and cup. Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional. VRCCDS0237
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X Ring
Member
    
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2011, 01:50:17 AM » |
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Perform the Double Row Wheel Bearing Mod on the rear wheel.  Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers. 
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rich_kildow
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« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2011, 07:40:46 AM » |
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Double row bearing mod was the top of my "preventative modifications" list!
What kind of grease goes of everything? I know Moly Disulfide paste on the splines, but what about everything else? I'd love to do a serviceable u-joint, but that will have to wait for winter.
I've been in contact with Gary and I'll be posting a thread to see if I can round up 10 people for drive wheel dampers.
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1998 Valkyrie Standard 1998 Polaris XLT Touring 1990 Bayliner Cobra dual console
"The nation which forgets it defenders will be itself forgotten." Calvin Coolidge
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X Ring
Member
    
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2011, 10:12:47 AM » |
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Double row bearing mod was the top of my "preventative modifications" list!
What kind of grease goes of everything? I know Moly Disulfide paste on the splines, but what about everything else? I'd love to do a serviceable u-joint, but that will have to wait for winter.
I've been in contact with Gary and I'll be posting a thread to see if I can round up 10 people for drive wheel dampers.
I use Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease. It's got moly in it. A tip I picked up from Chrisj is to burnish the surface of all the splines; wheel flange, final drive, pinion cup & driveshaft; then add grease. Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers. 
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PhredValk
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« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2011, 10:35:12 AM » |
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Could you please describe the 'burnish' procedure. From the Wikipedia article I wouldn't know where to begin. Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional. VRCCDS0237
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