Need Fork Oil Change and Progressive Spring Install Help

[glenh]

I take my 2000 Valk Standard in Monday to get the fork oil changed (43,000 miles) and progressive springs installed. I'm taking it in to a Yahama dealer (no Honda dealer close), they have never worked on a Valk before, they don't know if they need to take the forks off or not to do the work and they don't know how much fork oil it holds. I've done a search and have not found the info. I'm looking for. Soooooooooo, maybe someone here can inform me what is involved so I can inform the mechanic what to do? It kind of scares me to let someone work on it that never has worked on one before, but don't have any choice, I'm going to be gone while it is in the shop for a week, just have to hope for the best when I get back home.. What weight oil works the best? How much? (don't the left and right forks take different amounts)? Is it easier to take the forks off or no? Does anyone know where to find step by step instructions for this job? (like I could do a copy and paste or something). Could a mechanic do the job if he had the OEM Service Manual? From the search I did on here, seems like it is crucial how much fork oil is installed in each fork so that I get the best ride possible. I don't have much time here, (just until Mon.),hope someone can let me know something before than. I thank you and really appreciate any advice. 

[Foozle]

No, the forks don't have to be removed to change out the springs.  The following link takes you to a nice step-by-step description in the VRCC shoptalk: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/forksprings.htm.  Also, for a Standard or Tourer, the right and left shocks take 5.3 and 5.6 ozs. of fluid, respectively.  Hope this helps.  Terry





Posted edited.  Moved trailing period outside of url brackets.

[glenh]

Terry, your link is no good. Thanks. Glen.

[sandy]

First; The Progressives are to be installed with the tighter wound springs down. It quiets the noise on hard impacts. With the springs NOT yet installed: With the fork supported upright and the tube compressed: The Right fork takes ~ 22.7 oz.  Also measure from the top edge down to the fluid level. It should be 5.3 inches. Same install conditions: The left fork takes ~25.2 oz and the top down measure is 5.6 inches. The seals and dust seals are the same for Valks, VTX 1800's and Gold Wings (1800).  Send me a private message for my phone number and we'll talk if you want more info. I use 15W oil and like it. Some will it's too harsh so 10 W is the stock viscosity.

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Not sure why Foozle's link isnt working, it is the correct link, but just go to Shop Talk at the Valk site.  There is a link at the top of this page or the main page and scroll down on the left side to "Changing Fork Springs".  I am looking to have the same thing done soon.  Let me know how you make out and what they charge. 

[Foozle]

My thanks to Sandy for correcting my earlier post:  it's 5.3 and 5.6 inches of fluid - not ounces.  The Honda service manual can be a little spartan on labeling.  (Incidentally, I have both the Honda fork tool and the gadget Laign Eton describes to hold the dampening rod in the right fork leg; for the cost of shipping both ways, I'm happy to lend them to any VRCC member who wants to do their own spring swap).  Terry

[mirion]

Here is another description on fork seal change

http://twowheeled.net/ForkSeal.htm

[glenh]

No, the forks don't have to be removed to change out the springs.  The following link takes you to a nice step-by-step description in the VRCC shoptalk: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/forksprings.htm.  Also, for a Standard or Tourer, the right and left shocks take 5.3 and 5.6 ozs. of fluid, respectively.  Hope this helps.  Terry. The link works now. OK, this tells how to change the springs, but how do you get the old oil out and the new put in?





Posted edited.  Moved trailing period outside of url brackets.

[Foozle]

Glen,  I installed Progressive springs at ~10,000 miles - so I only added fork oil to replace whatever little I lost during the swap.  To remove all the fluid while leaving the forks on, I would think a MityVac or some other vacuum-type method would work.  I don't have any personal experience, but I know a lot of guys use a MityVac to change brake fluid.  Maybe someone else can chime in?  Terry

[glenh]

Foozle, that's kinda what I was thinking, hopefully all will come out? There is no drain on the bottom, is there?

[Foozle]

Glen,  I don't believe there is any type of plug on the fork bottoms with which to drain the fluid.  So, short of taking the forks off and pouring the old fluid out (see www.bigbf.com) - I think suctioning it out is probably the best way to go.  Also, I don't think you necessarily have to remove every single drop of old fluid; you just want to make sure you don't end up (when finished) with more than the specified amount (in inches) in each fork.  Most standard fork oils should be pretty compatible.  (Incidentally, I don't think Honda even specifies an interval with regard to changing fork oil; it's certainly not a bad thing to do while you're in changing springs - but I'm guessing there are a lot of high-mileage Valks out there running the original fork oil).  As always, this is only my 0.02.  I'll gladly defer to the real experts among us.  Terry

[glenh]

Foozie, when I straddle my bike standing, hold the front brake and push down on the handlebars, it clunks when it hits bottom and again when it comes up, the front supension seems to be very weak, this is why I figured I need an oil change, thought in the process I'd put some Progressive Springs in it as a lot of dudes around here seem to swear by them, maybe I don't need 'em???? Also, it don't handle as well as it used to at slow parking lot speeds.

[Foozle]

Glen,

Well, without actually seeing what you're referring to - it doesn't sound quite normal to me.  I have a 1980 175cc Yamaha enduro that I'm fiddling with and, with my 270+ lbs., I can make the old front shocks bottom out just by leaning over the handlebars (I'm oversized for this bike and the shocks are original - but you get the picture).  I've not tried to do this on my Valk, but I wouldn't think it's easily done (under normal conditions) simply by straddling a stationary bike.  Are your forks seals functioning properly?  Also, how large a guy are you?  I suppose a really big dude could impart some major force on the front end.

I replaced my front springs with Progressives merely to match my rear shocks - which I had also upgraded.  I had no real qualms with the OEM springs.  In my opinion, the OEM suspension on the Valkyrie was actually quite good - and I could've easily lived with it for my particular riding situation (solo, light luggage loads).

Having said this, I find the Progressives to be a little stiffer (but also "tighter") than the OEMs.  However, I've since done a number of upgrades (including new tires), so the heightened handling is probably due to several factors.  Still, the springs and fork oil aren't terribly expensive - so I suppose you're not out a ton of dough if they don't remedy the problem entirely. 

My amateur advice would be this:  If your fork seals are in good order, you can measure the depth of the fork oil pretty easily with a straightened coat hanger.  If you're low, top it off to specs and see if that makes a difference.  If the oil level is fine, you could suction it out and refill with new fluid or a slightly thicker weight.  If this doesn't help, then installation of new springs (and the labor that goes with them) might be warranted.  Terry

[glenh]

Took the bike in to the stealer, had him put the new Dunlop E3 tire on that I brought in, put the Dyna Beads in that I also brought in, they changed the fork oil and installed progressive fork springs for $290, they charged $92 for the springs, the rest was labor. At least I hope that was what they did! They did not take the fork springs off. I've been riding it some, don't really notice a whole lot of difference, maybe some, at least the front end isn't as spongy. I guess it handles, rides a little better as the new springs get broke in.

[Duey]

If I recall correctly the comment was that the bike road harder with the new springs. Rmoving a little of the oil fixed the problem. I am guessing that adding oil would stiffen the ride. YRMV