Kylenav
|
 |
« on: August 09, 2011, 06:44:21 AM » |
|
I'm getting ready for the 5K+ ride from Tampa to Utah and back in a few weeks. Just wondering if I should do anything else before the big trip. 2001 Std. with 50K miles on her. Here's what has been done:
Rear shock bushings Timing Belt Change Rear splines and drive shaft maint. Final drive fluid Starter switch maint. Front fork springs Coolant Cleaned K&N Fresh oil and filter Flushed the Brakes and Clutch fluid
Tires should have enough to get the trip in, if not I'll just swap it out when need be. I am still pondering the de-smog but not sure I want to start messing with it so close to departure now. Thinking I'll do that when I have no deadlines in case I bugger it all up.
I can't think of anything else that I should do, but I know the wealth of knowledge on this board far exceeds my realm of things to check/replace.
Thanks again in advance!
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
MP
Member
    
Posts: 5532
1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar
North Dakota
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2011, 08:07:38 AM » |
|
I would not desmog just before a big trip. Take a spare cover set with you, in case it fails.
MP
|
|
|
Logged
|
 "Ridin' with Cycho"
|
|
|
John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2011, 08:24:28 AM » |
|
I always carry a spare u-joint and a few odd pieces of wire to use as replacements in case of a short from something rubbing. Include some elec. tape to go with it. For long trips, I carry a Plug 'n Go kit for flats, along with a small 12v compressor. Neither take up much room and have saved my bacon twice in recent years. I agree with MP....I wouldn't mess with the desmog until you get back. If the rubber tubes are in good shape you shouldn't have any air/vacuum leaks. Might want to check them at the point where they attach to the back of the carbs. They'll often crack at those nipples. Can't think of anything else you haven't covered already. As for the trip, have a great time on the road. It's a good thing you waited until the cooler part of the season to do this! 
|
|
« Last Edit: August 09, 2011, 08:27:43 AM by John Schmidt »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2011, 08:50:21 AM » |
|
How much meat on them brake pads? And I have removed the alternator every 50K to crack it open, check the brushes and blow the dust out of it. The trip is only 5K so the alternator could wait if you arent confident in that procedure. How old is the battery?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
DarkMeister
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2011, 10:00:34 AM » |
|
Bring a petcock!! None of the dealers had one on hand.
Two things happened during my July long trip: first, fork seal went and spewed oil. If you just did the springs, presumably the seals are new. Then I developed a fuel leak; turned out to be petcock.
It's usually the little things that will trip one up on a trip.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2011, 10:03:04 AM » |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
|
5_19
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2011, 11:00:58 AM » |
|
I'm getting ready for the 5K+ ride from Tampa to Utah and back in a few weeks. Just wondering if I should do anything else before the big trip. 2001 Std. with 50K miles on her. Here's what has been done:
Rear shock bushings Timing Belt Change Rear splines and drive shaft maint. Final drive fluid Starter switch maint. Front fork springs Coolant Cleaned K&N Fresh oil and filter Flushed the Brakes and Clutch fluid
Tires should have enough to get the trip in, if not I'll just swap it out when need be. I am still pondering the de-smog but not sure I want to start messing with it so close to departure now. Thinking I'll do that when I have no deadlines in case I bugger it all up.
I can't think of anything else that I should do, but I know the wealth of knowledge on this board far exceeds my realm of things to check/replace.
Thanks again in advance!
What kind of valve stems do you have?? You NEED to replace them with METAL valve stems before you go period, especially if you still have the OEM valve stems on your 10 year old bike. Mine went bad on the front and when I finally pulled over it only had 7.5 psi in it. We where on our way to InZane and the previous day spent all day in Colorado riding, taking back roads and crossing over several passes over 11k ft.The only reason I found out my tire was low because I took an exit just north of Cheyenne, WY and I had a very hard time staying on the long sweeping exit ramp  WTH . If we had decided to go straight ahead I would have had a potentially catastrophic failure a few miles done the road on the front tire. This is not even the end of the story, just the start, so please run metal metal valve stems.
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle. IBA # 45723 2001 Honda Valkyrie Standard (Sold after 9 years) 2009 BMW R1200 GSA
|
|
|
98valk
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2011, 11:30:12 AM » |
|
I'm getting ready for the 5K+ ride from Tampa to Utah and back in a few weeks. Just wondering if I should do anything else before the big trip. 2001 Std. with 50K miles on her. Here's what has been done:
Rear shock bushings Timing Belt Change Rear splines and drive shaft maint. Final drive fluid Starter switch maint. Front fork springs Coolant Cleaned K&N Fresh oil and filter Flushed the Brakes and Clutch fluid
Tires should have enough to get the trip in, if not I'll just swap it out when need be. I am still pondering the de-smog but not sure I want to start messing with it so close to departure now. Thinking I'll do that when I have no deadlines in case I bugger it all up.
I can't think of anything else that I should do, but I know the wealth of knowledge on this board far exceeds my realm of things to check/replace.
Thanks again in advance!
What kind of valve stems do you have?? You NEED to replace them with METAL valve stems before you go period, especially if you still have the OEM valve stems on your 10 year old bike. Mine went bad on the front and when I finally pulled over it only had 7.5 psi in it. We where on our way to InZane and the previous day spent all day in Colorado riding, taking back roads and crossing over several passes over 11k ft.The only reason I found out my tire was low because I took an exit just north of Cheyenne, WY and I had a very hard time staying on the long sweeping exit ramp  WTH . If we had decided to go straight ahead I would have had a potentially catastrophic failure a few miles done the road on the front tire. This is not even the end of the story, just the start, so please run metal metal valve stems. Still have the Original valve stems on my '98. no problems at all. just sayin'
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: August 09, 2011, 11:34:45 AM » |
|
CA you should not have said anything about the over use of them OE valve stems. I would not be surprised if your next post now because you bragged is:
Stranded on the freeway no air....valve stem let go. Be very careful out there
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Farther
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: August 09, 2011, 11:49:15 AM » |
|
Now, now, play nice. What would Jesus do?
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thanks, ~Farther
|
|
|
valkyriemc
Member
    
Posts: 392
2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited
NE Florida
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2011, 11:57:29 AM » |
|
Had a local trip somewhat interupted/delayed by the kick stand spring post/stud breaking, which is notorious for doing so allowing the kickstand to flop down. And thereby allowing the interupt switch to activate and shut the bike down. A local guy gave me some bailing wire to hold my kickstand up so I could motor home. I know some carry that post as a spare. Here's what Chrisj CMA said in 12/08 about a similar event; http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi?read=1408641
|
|
« Last Edit: August 09, 2011, 12:12:42 PM by valkyriemc »
|
Logged
|
Veteran USN '70-'76
|
|
|
HayHauler
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2011, 12:14:31 PM » |
|
I'm getting ready for the 5K+ ride from Tampa to Utah and back in a few weeks. Just wondering if I should do anything else before the big trip. 2001 Std. with 50K miles on her. Here's what has been done:
Rear shock bushings Timing Belt Change Rear splines and drive shaft maint. Final drive fluid Starter switch maint. Front fork springs Coolant Cleaned K&N Fresh oil and filter Flushed the Brakes and Clutch fluid
Tires should have enough to get the trip in, if not I'll just swap it out when need be. I am still pondering the de-smog but not sure I want to start messing with it so close to departure now. Thinking I'll do that when I have no deadlines in case I bugger it all up.
I can't think of anything else that I should do, but I know the wealth of knowledge on this board far exceeds my realm of things to check/replace.
Thanks again in advance!
What kind of valve stems do you have?? You NEED to replace them with METAL valve stems before you go period, especially if you still have the OEM valve stems on your 10 year old bike. Mine went bad on the front and when I finally pulled over it only had 7.5 psi in it. We where on our way to InZane and the previous day spent all day in Colorado riding, taking back roads and crossing over several passes over 11k ft.The only reason I found out my tire was low because I took an exit just north of Cheyenne, WY and I had a very hard time staying on the long sweeping exit ramp  WTH . If we had decided to go straight ahead I would have had a potentially catastrophic failure a few miles done the road on the front tire. This is not even the end of the story, just the start, so please run metal metal valve stems. Still have the Original valve stems on my '98. no problems at all. just sayin' If you replace them every time you repalce your tire, or every time you take the rear of the bike apart for spline maintenance, you may be ok. But if they have 20k miles or more on them, it's just a time bomb. YMMV, Hay  Jimmyt
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: August 09, 2011, 12:20:26 PM » |
|
Had a local trip somewhat interupted/delayed by the kick stand spring post/stud breaking, which is notorious for doing so allowing the kickstand to flop down. And thereby allowing the interupt switch to activate and shut the bike down. A local guy gave me some bailing wire to hold my kickstand up so I could motor home. I know some carry that post as a spare. Here's what Chrisj CMA said in 12/08 about a similar event; http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi?read=1408641I remember that. That fabbed up bolt is still on there.......I visually check it sometimes and there is no sign of wiggling bending or any signs of fatigue. Maybe Ill hold off ordering the new one
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15260
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: August 09, 2011, 01:47:22 PM » |
|
Geez guys, after all that Kyle's gonna say forget it and stay home. All those suggestions are good but I think he has things pretty well covered. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Novavalker
|
 |
« Reply #15 on: August 09, 2011, 02:29:21 PM » |
|
Do a vacuum test on your petcock.
|
|
|
Logged
|
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
|
|
|
Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
|
 |
« Reply #16 on: August 09, 2011, 02:38:43 PM » |
|
Still have the Original valve stems on my '98. no problems at all. just sayin'
Not a good risk...they are a rubber stem with a metal insert. They should be replaced with every tire change or better yet, with a better stem. Yours are rotten and minor flexing of the metal stem will break it out of the rubber.
|
|
|
Logged
|
CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
|
|
|
art
Member
    
Posts: 2737
Grants Pass,Or
Grants Pass,Or
|
 |
« Reply #17 on: August 09, 2011, 02:50:40 PM » |
|
After all that you will need a trailer to take all the things you might need.I just finished a 2500 mile trip.You need a good cell phone an your road service an towing plan up to date .And don't forget your towing plan card
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
 |
« Reply #18 on: August 09, 2011, 05:38:08 PM » |
|
Still have the Original valve stems on my '98. no problems at all. just sayin'
Not a good risk...they are a rubber stem with a metal insert. They should be replaced with every tire change or better yet, with a better stem. Yours are rotten and minor flexing of the metal stem will break it out of the rubber. really. do u think honda used cheap natural rubber or the better EPDM a tougher synthetic rubber for their valve stems which must meet SAE 1205 – 1206? is everyone following what the tire shops say to do because they pay 16 to 25 cents in bulk per stem and then charge $2.50 or more for one? how is the internal seal of the stem to wheel being exposed to the atmospheric conditions that can deterioate the EPDM? how many have changed the valve stem and actually saw the outside have cracks and it was leaking air. I changed tires for 3 yrs back in the late '70s, valve stem material was not what it is today. Saw cracked valve stems all of the time, at 40-50k mile tire changes and they were never leaking. over the road truckers have tires that last 50k miles on the same EPDM valve stems, yet the same material valve stems on a m/c with 10-15k miles is no good and must be changed? I need to start selling valve stems at the going rate of 900% markup.  this sounds like the old change the oil every 2k miles cause its cheap insurance. based on pure feelings and nothing scientific, but more profit for the seller. sorry for hijacking your thread, I'm done. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
eric in md
Member
    
Posts: 2495
ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!
in the mountains .......cumberland md
|
 |
« Reply #19 on: August 09, 2011, 05:57:12 PM » |
|
lots of gas money ... ride on and be safe i always have a hidin key somewhere on bike you never know when you might need it . tape on back of tag, tie it under bike somewhere
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
currahee2-6
Member
    
Posts: 63
RIDIN THE DRAGON'S TAIL IN NOVEMBER!
Margate, Florida
|
 |
« Reply #20 on: August 09, 2011, 05:59:04 PM » |
|
yeah one more thing...you shouldda told me you were going! I live in West Palm Beach and am considering going to Colorado. Maybe next time. Keep us posted on the trip way points or an after action report when you get back! GOOD LUCK and be safe.  dave
|
|
|
Logged
|
to those who fight for it, Life has a flavor the protected never know.
|
|
|
YoungPUP
|
 |
« Reply #21 on: August 09, 2011, 06:10:09 PM » |
|
Make a list for EVERYTHING! the dumb stuff thats hard to find is what you'll forget. Earplugs, phone charger, the devil's in the details... Other than that have fun and enjoy!
|
|
|
Logged
|
Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
|
|
|
Gunslinger
Member
    
Posts: 404
Brian Huntzinger, EMT-P
Wamego, KS
|
 |
« Reply #22 on: August 10, 2011, 02:49:07 AM » |
|
how many have changed the valve stem and actually saw the outside have cracks and it was leaking air.
I have!!! In fact the front valve stem didn't simply leak air, it split and dumped all the air while riding to Frisco , CO. In the picture you can see the valve stem and where it separated. I finished the process to more easily remove it, but the damage was certainly done. Do OEM stems need replaced every tire change? Probably not, but I don't see the same thing happening to my all metal stems.... Your mileage may vary. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
VRCC# 26468 VRCCDS# 0228  "Some learn by listening, Others learn by watching... The rest of us have to pee on the electric fence ourselves"
|
|
|
Anthony
|
 |
« Reply #23 on: August 10, 2011, 03:27:27 AM » |
|
didn't state how old the wheel bearings were, is handy to have the correct models with you if necessary. + a spare ignition key and remote for alarm , + spare battery for remote Anthony
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Kylenav
|
 |
« Reply #24 on: August 10, 2011, 06:37:19 AM » |
|
WOW!!! THANK YOU ALL FOR THE ADVICE AND TIPS!!! Exactly what I was looking for. I'll order and change the valve stems just for peace of mind fellas  . I just changed two timing belts that looked brand new for the same reason. $37 and my garage is a lot better than a tow and $2,000 on the road for sure. I now have a few questions, and additions. I forgot to include that I just put new front brake pads on, so they have 10 miles on them. Rear look fine. The fork seals were not touched, everything was done through the fork caps with the forks on the bike to swap the springs. Most stealers should keep the seals in stock right? I'm going to bring a few feet of extra vacuum line, and electrical wire just in case, and plenty of tape and zip ties. I also ordered some "Ride-On" and carry a CO2 tire inflation/plug kit, so no worries there. Battery looks pretty new and haven't ever had any trouble with that. Now for the questions. How do I preform a vacuum test of the petcock? Only thing I've done to kinda check it is leave it off and ride it. Runs out of gas in about half a mile or less so that means to me it be workin! How difficult is it to pull off the alternator? I've never considered doing this since it's working fine but blowing it out and having a peak seems like it's a swell idea. MP what is this spare cover set you speak of? I wish I had a spare U-Joint for the journey but we all know the deal with them right now. I've got one on order and know a couple of guys local, and a few on the board have spares so I'm just praying I won't be begging for one in a few weeks. It was checked during the rear end maintenance a couple weeks ago and seems to be ok. Never can tell for sure though. Thank you all again for the words of advice and the tips. I really do appreciate it. currahee2-6 I posted a month or two ago that I was heading out that way on the general board!!! You are more than welcome to come, even though it's short notice now! I'm leaving the 2nd of Sept. to head up to Atlanta and meet my brother. We will leave there on the 3rd and head to Phoenix. Gotta be there by Tuesday morning to meet the other 7 guys whom are flying in and renting bikes. Then 5 days out west with them and 4 or so more after they leave. Plan to be home before the 19th. We're going out there to lay my father to rest who passed away in January. He's the reason I now have the Valk...
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Bone
|
 |
« Reply #25 on: August 10, 2011, 08:30:07 AM » |
|
Most stealers should keep the seals in stock right? You will be very lucky to find any Valkyrie part in stock at a stealer. My shop can get most parts in 2-3 days.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Disco
Member
    
Posts: 4901
Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject
Republic of Texas
|
 |
« Reply #26 on: August 10, 2011, 08:36:29 AM » |
|
Still have the Original valve stems on my '98. no problems at all. just sayin' Bad enough they are still on there. Worse that it seems to be a decision, not an observation or oversight, and is actually being defended. Just sayin' I run Patchboys, but Valkpilot just found some from Jake Wilson that actually TIGHTEN FROM THE OUTSIDE!!! Major improvement. Don't ask me how I know... http://www.jakewilson.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=321&navTitle=Motorcycle+Tire+Accessories&webCatId=38&keyword=valve+stem&prodFamilyId=19082
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike 22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT 78 CB550K 71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper .jpg) VRCC 27,916 IBA 44,783
|
|
|
Daniel Meyer
Member
    
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
|
 |
« Reply #27 on: August 10, 2011, 08:48:25 AM » |
|
Still have the Original valve stems on my '98. no problems at all. just sayin'
Not a good risk...they are a rubber stem with a metal insert. They should be replaced with every tire change or better yet, with a better stem. Yours are rotten and minor flexing of the metal stem will break it out of the rubber. really. do u think honda used cheap natural rubber or the better EPDM a tougher synthetic rubber for their valve stems which must meet SAE 1205 – 1206? is everyone following what the tire shops say to do because they pay 16 to 25 cents in bulk per stem and then charge $2.50 or more for one? how is the internal seal of the stem to wheel being exposed to the atmospheric conditions that can deterioate the EPDM? how many have changed the valve stem and actually saw the outside have cracks and it was leaking air. I changed tires for 3 yrs back in the late '70s, valve stem material was not what it is today. Saw cracked valve stems all of the time, at 40-50k mile tire changes and they were never leaking. over the road truckers have tires that last 50k miles on the same EPDM valve stems, yet the same material valve stems on a m/c with 10-15k miles is no good and must be changed? I need to start selling valve stems at the going rate of 900% markup.  this sounds like the old change the oil every 2k miles cause its cheap insurance. based on pure feelings and nothing scientific, but more profit for the seller. sorry for hijacking your thread, I'm done.  The demonstrated failure rate is very high, the failure mode is dangerous, and the OEM design is crap. It *requires* a plastic clip on it to keep it from failing even more prematurely than it does anyway. Whatever rubber they used rots (the external bit that is exposed to sun/atmospheric conditions if you actually take a look at one). Use a different one, or don't, but this is a known issue/weak point that has sidelined LOTS of valks with sudden/running flats (which, for some reason I feel are to be avoided). The OEM stems are dangerous. I don't make that statement lightly. Can't think of another part that comes in the valk I would say that about (though there are some aftermarket risers I'll say that about). Don't stick other peoples heads in the sand for the sake of arguing. .
|
|
|
Logged
|
CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
|
|
|
Kylenav
|
 |
« Reply #28 on: August 10, 2011, 09:40:50 AM » |
|
So I am guessing I'd have to completely remove the tore from the wheel?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Farther
|
 |
« Reply #29 on: August 10, 2011, 09:51:27 AM » |
|
So I am guessing I'd have to completely remove the tore from the wheel?
No, look at the picture above. Lots of work either way.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Thanks, ~Farther
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
 |
« Reply #30 on: August 10, 2011, 10:13:09 AM » |
|
Have they ever discovered the cause of the mystery of the Lemming?
Seems they could get some extra useful information locally!
I think a whole lot of the change-out is bling enabled.
Myself, I feel Honda designed it correctly and got it right.
Take care of your Valkyrie and it will take care of you.
***
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
 |
« Reply #31 on: August 10, 2011, 10:43:16 AM » |
|
Holy crap! Kylenav's gonna be so paranoid after reading all this crap that he probably thinking about taking the car!
Change the oil and go.
It's a Valkyrie!
***
I just moved this from another thread where I has erroneously posted it!
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
Paxton
|
 |
« Reply #32 on: August 10, 2011, 01:30:08 PM » |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
J. Paxton Gomez
1966 First year Bronco... 302 CI V8 1975 First year Chrysler Cordoba... 360 CI V8 1978 Honda 750F / Cafe Racer 2000 GL1500CY Fast-Black Standard Solo Rider
So Cal... 91205
"Four wheels move the body; two wheels move the soul."
|
|
|
|