GM help ....Please

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I've got a 1993 Buick Park Ave. with 120,000 miles we've had this car for years and it still looks and drives great my wife drives it back and forth to work.Below is a list of brand new parts I've installed or had installed in the last couple weeks. It runs great however it will just die like you turned the key off while driving.Any ideas what else I might need I'm just about over throwing money at this car in the last two weeks its been at two mechanic's and I've spend around $600.00 on it.

New oxygen sensor
New crank sensor
New alternator
New battery
New spark plugs and wires
New fuel filter
New air filter

[f6john]

Need more info. Does it at least try to turn over after if dies going down the road? Under what circumstances does it start back up? Time frame involved between the problem and restart? Have you pulled any codes from the computer?

[shortleg]

  You might look at fuel pump also.
 Just had to replace one on a Buick that would not start.
in hot weather.
            Shortleg[Dave]

[Patrick]

What f6john and shortleg said..  We need to know what needed to take place to get this thing running again.. Would the engine turn over and not fire, turn over and try to fire, or not turn over at all ??  Being a GM of that year my first thought is fuel pump or regulator ,but, more info would help.. Ignition modules and coil packs of this vintage had a lot of troubles also.. I hate to say this,but, most of the parts installed would not cause your troubles..

[Skinhead]

Hey Joe,

I thought I posted here, but I don't see it.  Here's what I would do

Load check the battery, my brother in law just had all kinds of issues and it was a shorted battery.

Check for DTC's (codes) most auto parts will scan it for you.

If possible, put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail service port and watch it while driving to see if fuel pump is not supplying enough pressure (could also be the regulator)

If it's not the fuel pump, it could be a coil pack, but I would expect to see a DTC with that.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Much appreicated men  It's been on a diagnosing machine several times and they always say " it's not showing any codes " . We found a bad ( broken , rotten ) rubber I'm guessin' vent hose coming off the top of the fuel rail today and changed that. My wife and I just returned from a nice steak dinner and it ran like a new one....On the other hand after all the new parts she drove it all week last week to work with no problem  and this morning on her way to the store it quit twice....When it quits " most " of the time you can wait 15 / 20 minutes and it will start back up 

[R Bowers]

With the engine running take a screwdriver handle and tap the mass airflow sensor if engine stops replace mass air sensor. Had the same problem, would stop and would not restart with no codes. PS just in case ? mass air is between air filter and intake on engine. 

[fudgie]

Hate to say it, but might be the computer. I think it has the OB II in it. My boss has a Cherokee that would stop running, then start a time later. computer was bad. New computer and it was fine. Few months later it went bad again. Ended up being loose wireing harness into the computer that time. Works good now for 2 yrs. Usually you can get a computer at a yard for cheap and have a warrenty. Boss got a new one for $300.

You dont have a remote start on it do ya?

[YoungPUP]

Dad had a 93 Lesabre that did the same thing. The computers for that year were known to have bad solder work, and components would  draw too much juice  heat up and cut out. His would start again after 15/20 min ( the parts cooled down) and it'd be fine for maybe 30mmin maybe 2 months. Good Luck

[Patrick]

The system is OBD1 which doesn't always throw a code and even when they do, it will only lead you in a general direction.. Having to wait that length of time before a restart is a pretty sure sign of an open.. In other words something electrical is getting warm,expands and the circuit 'opens' / disconnects itself, once cooled the circuit closes and all is well until the next time.. A good older GM mechanic in the area should be able to figure this out rather quickly, instead of throwing parts at it..

[John Schmidt]

Joe, before spending big bucks locally for parts, if you know what's needed go to www.Rockauto.com and check their prices. Most of the time their stuff is way under the local parts house prices, I've used them in the past when I didn't need it that day.

[Dragon-6]

Joe, if you like to live a little (ok a lot) dangerously, and I do NOT recommend this technique outside a shop with a fire extinguisher handy and with a qualified tech...but here is how we diagnose this type of problem.  As soon as the car dies, loosen the fuel line to the injector rail and have some one briefly turn over the ignition.  You will see if any fuel is being delivered, if not, you now know your fuel pump is bad.  Happens a lot with GM cars especially if you run the gas tank below 1/2 full.  Or go the safe way and just have the fuel pump replaced....as a last resort.  Erratic fuel gauge is another indicator to watch for when your fuel pump is dying.  Good Luck.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Again thanks to everyone that posted    Do any of you folks know what this is called ? It's the part that had the bad hose on it ( back side not shown ) . Could that bad , broken hose coming  off this " thing " cause the problem ?

[BIG--T]

It could be in the electronic ignition or your computer.

[Dragon-6]

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/?PN=4294904517&VN=4294967146+4294966433+4294964542&N=0&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&sv=0

Try this site.  Again good luck, driveability problems suck!

[fudgie]

Looks like a vaccum check valve thingy to me.

[hmt81]

Seems as though crank sensor was an issue but I see you changed that, could also be module or coil pack. Wish I never sold mine, great car. Mine was Supercharged ('93 Ultra). Good luck, let us know what you find.

[Skinhead]

Again thanks to everyone that posted    Do any of you folks know what this is called ? It's the part that had the bad hose on it ( back side not shown ) . Could that bad , broken hose coming  off this " thing " cause the problem ?

Joe
That part is the fuel pressure regulator, the hose on it is used to communicate the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) to the fuel regulator to mantain the correct fuel pressure as the manifold vacuum changes with load on the engine.  If the hose was broken or disconnected, 1) you would have a vaccum leak that would cause a lean condition, and 2) the fuel pressure would not be compesated for changes in manifold vacuum.  I could see where this could cause a stall but probably poor running more likely.

[R J]

Joe, Mad6Gun (Mark, solo1's son), is a GM drive ability tech.   Send him a PM.

If I was thinking right now, I'd say fuel pump and if you changed that hose that should have cured your problem.   

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Just wanted to post a follow-up....So far so good I've got my fingers crossed....I want to also say " Thanks " again to all you folks that hooked me up with info my friend Skinhead send me some great info with pictures ( I like pictures    ) .

[Skinhead]

Were the grounds loose?  I hope that fixed it.  If not let me know and we'll go to "Plan B".

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Were the grounds loose?  I hope that fixed it.  If not let me know and we'll go to "Plan B".

Was'nt loose but nasty I cleaned them she has drove it to work all week and so far so good  ( fingers crossed )