Valk won't start - No turn over. HELP

[Toledo Mark]

Turned on, push the starter and nothing happens. No headlight either but horn works, blinkers work.

I checked the battery and voltage is there
I took the starter button apart and cleaned. (I did not grease)

Now the headlights come on but it still does not turn over.   When I had the starter button apart I noticed a very very small dimple on two of the contacts on the black part of the starter button piece I pryed off the white thingy. (make sense?)

When I reasembled the button the headlights work but it will not turn over when the button is pushed.

AND it is not the orange kill switch.

Please advise.  Thanks, Mark

[Ricky-D]

Ok, so now you say that when you push the start button the headlight goes off,,,,,, and when you release the start button the head light comes back on.  Is this correct?

If so you will find the start relay under the right side cover.

First check it to see it is getting 12v from the start button.

If this is correct your probably needing a new starter relay.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

Turned on, push the starter and nothing happens. No headlight either but horn works, blinkers work.

I checked the battery and voltage is there
I took the starter button apart and cleaned. (I did not grease)

Now the headlights come on but it still does not turn over.   When I had the starter button apart I noticed a very very small dimple on two of the contacts on the black part of the starter button piece I pryed off the white thingy. (make sense?)

When I reasembled the button the headlights work but it will not turn over when the button is pushed.

AND it is not the orange kill switch.

Please advise.  Thanks, Mark

The important thing to insure.....the brass contacts inside the starter button, they sit in the white plastic thinggy with a spring under it.  It should be "springy" and not stuck/jammed inside that groove.  I have seen a couple switches that stopped working and or were not put back in order after the switch maintenance because the person doing the work didnt know the thing was supposed to springy and crammed the contact in the slot and put it back together and then little to no juice getting through because of a poor contact........follow?

[Toledo Mark]

I follow Chris. 

I took the side cover off.  Which item is the relay and how do I test it?  I do have an ohm meter and know how to use it.  I just can't identify the relay.  Also I went to the dealer and they said there are two relays.  Both cost about $45 each and a new starter button switch with housing is about $100.

But for now I need help identifying the relay and testing it.

Thanks again.

[Gryphon Rider]

Is the bike in neutral?

[Chrisj CMA]

I follow Chris. 

I took the side cover off.  Which item is the relay and how do I test it?  I do have an ohm meter and know how to use it.  I just can't identify the relay.  Also I went to the dealer and they said there are two relays.  Both cost about $45 each and a new starter button switch with housing is about $100.

But for now I need help identifying the relay and testing it.

Thanks again.

Search starter relay and you will see pictures, but behind the right side cover its the square thing right in the middle with a rubber cover and a fuse showing on the top.  Just grab it and pull straight out its designed to be "plucked" off its little mounts

[Toledo Mark]

Yes in nuetral.

After playing around with the starter button I think that is the problem.  I  think the issue (as Chris said) is the brass thingy that has the spring under it.  Getting it adjusted perfectly must be the trick.  It seems to hang sometimes in the slots of the white plastic thing.  What is the trick? It almost seems like the slots are to small.  I have pryed the brass thing smaller and larger to get it to float better but it does seem to hang up sometimes.

Also how perfect do the four brass contacts have to be in the black thingy?  two have very small dimples. 

Thanks

[Toledo Mark]

Search starter relay and you will see pictures, but behind the right side cover its the square thing right in the middle with a rubber cover and a fuse showing on the top.  Just grab it and pull straight out its designed to be "plucked" off its little mounts

Pull the whole cover with fuse and all?  Is it behind that?

EDITTED:  I found where the relay is.

[Toledo Mark]

I was reading a few other threads but could not find an answer. 

Another thread stated if the starter button failed you could hotwire it somewhere around the relay to start it.  Anyone know exactly how and can explain it?  Sure would be great to know.

Thanks,

[Chrisj CMA]

Yes in nuetral.

After playing around with the starter button I think that is the problem.  I  think the issue (as Chris said) is the brass thingy that has the spring under it.  Getting it adjusted perfectly must be the trick.  It seems to hang sometimes in the slots of the white plastic thing.  What is the trick? It almost seems like the slots are to small.  I have pryed the brass thing smaller and larger to get it to float better but it does seem to hang up sometimes.

Also how perfect do the four brass contacts have to be in the black thingy?  two have very small dimples.  

Thanks

Zeus...Im not a scientist, but after the ones I saw it seemed to me that heat is your enemy.  I think that those things gets hot and the plastic distorts.  It should be self adjusting.  If you use something like a dentil pic and clean and maybe slightly enlarge the slot that the brass double head contact thinngy drops into.....when it operates correctly the only thing holding the brass down is the other half of the switch, in other words, while its apart if you stick the spring on that little peg, drop the contact on and push it down all the way it should just pop up and out on the floor if you let it.....hope that helps