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YoungPUP
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« on: August 26, 2011, 06:31:30 PM » |
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Ok, I'm trying to put my list together of things to do to the Valk before it snow, and in the spring before I ride again.
Disassemble/clean/lube splines, pinion, and ujoint
Check rear wheel bearings while back there
Check noise under front timing cover ( squeaking noise)
Marine Stabil, and new fuel
In the spring
New front tire, and wheel bearings.
Oil change, and air filter clean (K&N)
Remove winter fuel and replace
Anything I'm missing?
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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The Anvil
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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2011, 06:36:47 PM » |
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How are your fuel and vacuum lines?
That's on my list of things to do over the winter; replace all fuel lines and de-smog.
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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PhredValk
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2011, 08:59:21 PM » |
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The manual says to remove the spark plugs and drop a tablespoon of motor oil in each cylinder, run the starter briefly to distribute the oil and put the plugs back in. Also says to drain the carb bowls, but I'm not sure how. Stabilize the fuel tank and run some miles to get the stabilizer into the carbs. Not in that order.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2011, 05:56:28 PM » |
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Did a desmog when I bought her May '10 replaced all the fuel lines, and ditched the vac lines. As for draining the carbs I'll NEVER do that again. I've NEVER drained a carb in the 10yrs I've been riding. I did it last year and ended up pulling the rack to clean them all out this past spring. Marine Stabil from here on out.....
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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dubsider
Member
Posts: 195
Flat6 baby #33034
Dublin GA
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« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2011, 06:42:14 PM » |
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I am glad I live in the south...  She never sits more than a day or two. |
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The Anvil
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« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2011, 06:56:17 PM » |
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Did a desmog when I bought her May '10 replaced all the fuel lines, and ditched the vac lines. As for draining the carbs I'll NEVER do that again. I've NEVER drained a carb in the 10yrs I've been riding. I did it last year and ended up pulling the rack to clean them all out this past spring. Marine Stabil from here on out.....
Yeah I'm of the opinion that draining the carbs is a bad idea too. Never done it in all my years over over-wintering a bike and never had a problem. |
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Daniel Meyer
Member
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2011, 07:51:07 PM » |
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There's an off season?  |
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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YoungPUP
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« Reply #7 on: August 28, 2011, 07:28:41 AM » |
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Unfortunately there is an off season where I live, at least until I find instructions for snow chains on the valk....But they do make studded car tires  |
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!
99 STD (Under construction)
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2011, 09:12:47 AM » |
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I would think that if you use a good gasoline stabilizer that the need to drain the carburetors is superfluous and redundant.
On the other hand, if you don't want to use a stabilizer, simply draining the carburetors is doing only part of the job.
It's important to recognize that gasoline will still remain in the gas lines and the tank itself. Enough to give a problem when you turn the stopcock to "on". All that crap will transfer to the carburetors. See YoungPUP's comment.
it is also very important to understand that a stabilizer in the gas tank will not migrate to the gas lines and carburetors on it's own. It is necessary to run the bike for a considerable amount of miles to insure the correct quantity (mixture) is in the total system. I would think in anticipation of a storage point to start running a stabilizer in the last full tank of gasoline and consume at least half of that!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Tropic traveler
Member
Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2011, 10:40:36 AM » |
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There's an off season? Exactly!  |
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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NITRO
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« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2011, 05:29:01 AM » |
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Don't forget to get your battery out of there. I put mine on a charger every few weeks in my basement and haven't had any problems yet.
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When in doubt, ride.
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valkyriemc
Member
Posts: 392
2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited
NE Florida
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« Reply #12 on: August 29, 2011, 06:06:51 PM » |
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Take a good hard look at the bat connections, twist to see if loose or touch up both terminals with a wrench or socket. Check the ground connection too, for clean and tight. Pull the connector off the starter relay, look for corosion re connectors. If you haven't done it and want a project, get the tank low on gas and pull it. Pull petcock and douch out tank looking for fine rust particles and install a filter if haven't put one in yet. Drain carbs to get any crap out of them. G/L
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Veteran USN '70-'76
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10614
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #13 on: August 30, 2011, 06:33:23 AM » |
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I fill up the tank and use seafoam as the stabilizer. Kinda simple for me.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #14 on: August 30, 2011, 08:36:20 AM » |
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After putting stabilizer in the full tank of gas, ride it 5 miles to get the stabilizer into the carbs. Riding it for half a tank is not required, but fine if you refill the tank and add the right amount of stabilizer to treat the gas you topped off with. There should be no need to drain the tank and replace with fresh gas in the spring; just go for a ride with the old fuel. Regarding your front wheel bearings, if they feel smooth and firm when you turn them with your fingers, there is no need to replace them. Certainly pull the battery and put a low-current (1-2A) overnight charge on it once every 4-6 weeks. You might as well have a look at your upper and lower rear shock bushings and replace if they look cracked or off centre. The green VTX bushings are a good choice and inexpensive. Give the whole bike a thorough cleaning and waxing before storing.
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Dirty Dave
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« Reply #15 on: September 03, 2011, 06:27:29 AM » |
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Superfluous & redundant is right, but I do it anyway as the Valk is down 3 to 5 months outta the year in Canada. Never had a problem in the 8 years I've been doing it. Starts up 1st crank in the Spring but I do have a Pingle petcock, gravity feed. I use Sta-Bil and run the carbs "dry" but
find there is quite a bit o' gas remaining in the float bowls. Draining the bowls is so easy with
a Valk that I can't resist. Takes 2 minutes. AGM batteries don't lose much over the Winter
but I use my heated vest connector to occaisonally top it up without removing it from
the Valk.
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #16 on: September 03, 2011, 07:13:32 AM » |
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The manual says to remove the spark plugs and drop a tablespoon of motor oil in each cylinder, run the starter briefly to distribute the oil and put the plugs back in. Also says to drain the carb bowls, but I'm not sure how. Stabilize the fuel tank and run some miles to get the stabilizer into the carbs. Not in that order.
Fred.
I think what you are saying contradicts itself. Drain carb bowls, stabilize the fuel tank and run some miles to get the stabilizer in the carbs. If ya want it in the carbs, just run it for about 6 or 7 miles, no need to drain the carbs in my book, but my book is only a 1st grade book, the one that says, See Spot, See Spot Run, and some more see Spot do things. Not very educational, right? In 242K, I have yet to drain the carbs in the winter. I add a full can of SeaFoam, run it home from the gas station and park him, I do shut of the fuel valve in the winter. |
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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PhredValk
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« Reply #17 on: September 03, 2011, 10:06:23 AM » |
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Actually I don't do any of that, it's in the manual and he was asking what he can do. I stabilise the gas, put the bike up on stands (I think the fork seal went cause of it not moving and drastic temp variations last winter), turn the petcock off and put the battery on a tender in the basement.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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sugerbear
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« Reply #18 on: September 03, 2011, 06:59:42 PM » |
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my winter routine: fill the tank, park it on the carport, put charger on,
start it ever month or so.
in the spring, get on it and ride.
no problems yet (7 years)
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