air box...how bad is it

[scarylarry]

posted a few days ago about changing vac lines...gotta pull the tank and airbox...have read some horror stories about getting the airbox back in...2 people make it easier?   any preferences on vacuuum lines, I can get @ advanced auto?...5/32,s correct?...take all the help I can get...thanx

[Thunderbolt]

and you don't need those crazy little wire clips with the 5/32 hose.  You can put some small black tyraps on if you are worried about leaks.  Those wire clips are a pain. 
As far as the airbox, you can put some string or a few large tyraps around the spider legs and pull them in to help, but main thing is that you check to be sure they are all on when you finish.  I usually take all the clamps off before I remove the airbox and then put them on when it is back in.  That way you don't lose them down on top of the engine.

[bassman]

Dis help? 

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/AirBox%20VentHose/AirBox.htm

[Jack B]

I just removed and replaced my airbox this week. It wasn't as bad as I heard. There are 3 hoses on the bottom of the air box that you have to remove alittle pain getting it out and in but once back in all the air tubes lined up you just have to push the top of the box down. And yes take the clamps off when you put the box it or you will be taking it back out to look for the clamps. Also look at your drain hoses on the bottom of your carbs all of mine had cracks in them I just trimmed the ends off and put them back on.
Have fun    

[Toledo Mark]

I pulled my airbox about a month ago to desmog.

Heck, you should just do the desmog.

Anyway when putting the airbox back on the only problem I had was getting the six tubes to seat all the way down on the backsides.   Once I figured out that probelm they slipped right down with no problems.

[hotrodjohn]

difficulty level way overrated, just use zipties to hold each pair of intake tubes together toward the center and drop it in, then cut the zips. 

[Farther]

I wonder if a little (very little) plumber silicone grease would help the tubes slide in place. 

[John Schmidt]

Strange....I've never used zip ties or strings to hold the rubber intakes in. I just set one side in place, kinda lay/lean the box to one side and start that side, then lean it the other way and stuff that side in. Takes me a minute or two at best. Be sure to remove the coil mounted on the left side rail, kinda gets in the way.

If the box is being stubborn about sitting down on the carbs(not every bike), get a piece of 2x4 about 4-6" long. Install the box lid and lay the wood on it, then use a sledge hammer and beat the.....NO, NO, NO.  Get a ratchet type tie down, hook it on either side of the engine to the engine guard and run it over the top of the wood. Ratchet it down and it will hold everything down and in place while you go about installing the three hoses underneath, bolting the box in back, and checking the carb tubes, etc.  It's really not as SCARY as one would think, just don't be in a hurry.

[PharmBoy]

+1 on doing the desmog and the difficulty on the air box is over rated. I have done 5 or 6 and have one in the shop just waiting.  A pair of 11" needlenose plyers sure help when removing and reattaching hoses.  They come straight, 45 degree, and 90 degree and are cheap at Harbor Freight, etc.  Enjoy the experience, don't get in any hurry, and make sure that everything is back where it should be and tightened down.  Now is also an excellent time to replace the rubber o-rings between the intakes & the head if they haven't been replaced lately.  This is another likely place to have an air leak.  Have fun!...Jim

[RP#62]

You know, you don't necessarily have to remove the airbox to change the vacuum hoses.  I've changed mine 3 or 4 times without pulling the airbox.  I use the string method and some 9" forceps and do it in about a half hour (not including tank R&R).
-RP

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

it always seems to me it is easier if I remove the coil from the frame on the left side and get it out of the way.

[Ricky-D]

It's Ok to bend and crush and whatever else you need to do to get the rubber intake hoses in place underneath the frame rails.

I would suggest to not remove the clamps since you will have to deform them to get them back on after the hoses are on the carburetors.  You can shove them up, hold them with tape or something to get them up out of the way.

It is important to notice that the hoses and the hose clamps are indexed so that they can only be "on" in a singularly definitive way.

I also don't like the idea to lubricate the rubber since after tightening, the clamps could force the rubber to extrude and slide off the mounting surface to which it is attached.

You do not have to be gentle with the air box assembly and hoses which I think is probably the biggest reason so many have difficulty when reinstalling the piece.

***

[fudgie]

Never had a problem getting mine in. I do mine in late winter so I put the tubes infront of my tunnel heater to warm them up. Also done similar to what Farther said but I used WD40. Sometimes I do nothing. Goes in easy, for me.

[John U.]

I like to lubricate the tubes as well. An inspection mirror and flashlight will show you which ones are not going on right.
A screw driver or right angled pick can get them on if they fold in.

[John Schmidt]

You don't have to be gentle with those tubes, bend them all you want, you're not going to hurt them. As for the clamps, I just loosen them enough to slide up out of their groove...gets them out of the way. And, the clamps are indexed as mentioned, won't explain it...just look at them and you'll see what we mean. Lastly, I've never lubed the inside of the rubber tubes that feed the carbs. They will slip down on them easy enough, if you have trouble doing that refer to my suggestion above re. the use of a tie down strap. It pulls it all down and holds it for you, leaving both hands free to do whatever is needed. When done, release the strap and nothing moves. Takes a minute or so to hook the strap in place, saves you tons of time, effort, and frustration trying to hold with one hand and tighten/adjust something with the other. Makes you feel you'd give your right arm to be ambidextrous.

[97BLKVALK]

I wonder if a little (very little) plumber silicone grease would help the tubes slide in place. 

I use a little Seafoam that way no unusual grease ends up inth ecarbs.  Also good for intalling vacuum lines and gas lines.

Be Happy and Ride

Michael

[The Anvil]

Dish detergent is the best lubricant I can think of for that kind of stuff. Won't harm anything and if you use the anti bacterial stuff your Valk won't pick up diseases if it happens to associate with a Suzuki.