Jeff K
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« on: September 05, 2011, 02:56:29 PM » |
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Ok, I'm finally getting closer to putting this tower up I have a 40' crank up aluminum tower. It will be attached to the house at about 8'
How much concrete will I need to pour to hold this bugger up? It will only have a small cell phone antenna on it so the antenna will not really be any adition to the wind load.
Any thoughts?
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Grumpy
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« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2011, 03:54:33 PM » |
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Years ago I had a 36 foot steel tower for my ham setup, we used 16" diameter sonotube buried 5 foot deep, and poured it full of concrete, with 2 foot lengths of 3/4 inch all thread rod buried in the cement. Had nuts and washers on the bottom to keep it from pulling up, left a couple inches exposed to bolt the base of the tower down. I never had a problem with it, had a 10 meter dual beam antenna mounted on top. Antenna was about 24 foot square by 16 foot high, pretty good wind load. tower never moved. Might be over kill for a cell phone antenna.
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Walküre
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Oxford, Indiana
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« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2011, 04:01:54 PM » |
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Years ago I had a 36 foot steel tower for my ham setup, we used 16" diameter sonotube buried 5 foot deep, and poured it full of concrete, with 2 foot lengths of 3/4 inch all thread rod buried in the cement.
I might add, if you can, make sure the threaded rod is galvanized. The weather can play hell with regular steel rod. Don't ask...  R
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fudgie
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Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2011, 04:13:22 PM » |
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Ours stick above about 10' above our 2 story old farm house. I guess 50' feet or more with a tv ant on it. Not sure about how deep the concrete base is but I doubt very far. A little tip tho, ours has 3 sides. To bring it down we undo 2 bolts and it 'hinges' on the 3rd one. Makes it alot easier to lower if work is needed at the top.
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Jeff K
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2011, 05:20:12 PM » |
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It has a tilt over base. and it came with most of the steel that was in the footing that once was used. How they recovered that, I have no idea. It's about 16" on center for the three tubes.  
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Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
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« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2011, 05:26:38 PM » |
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We set power poles at 10 % .... ( 100 Ft pole @ 10 feet deep ) 40 Ft ...4 Feet deep.
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 I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
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Jeff K
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« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2011, 05:27:54 PM » |
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We set power poles at 10 % .... ( 100 Ft pole @ 10 feet deep ) 40 Ft ...4 Feet deep.
Any formula for diameter?
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Toledo Mark
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Formerly Zeus661
Rossford, Ohio
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« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2011, 05:37:19 PM » |
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Formula = 1.5 times diameter of base. Also I think I would weld more to the bottom so you can go deeper. I would go at least 5 feet.
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Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
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American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.
Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )
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« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2011, 05:42:27 PM » |
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We set power poles at 10 % .... ( 100 Ft pole @ 10 feet deep ) 40 Ft ...4 Feet deep.
Any formula for diameter? That 10% is back filling with dirt and tamping...I'm sure with the weight you are dealing with 2 to 3 feet and concrete it would not be going anywhere. Our bits fit the dia. of the pole with a 6 to 8 inch tamp zone around the pole.
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« Last Edit: September 05, 2011, 05:53:19 PM by Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005 »
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 I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
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old2soon
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« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2011, 05:42:36 PM » |
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When i was pouring concrete the diameter of something like that was at least a match or a little more of the size of rhe tower or pole or what ever the item was/is. Hope this helps. Once you get the measurments call your local concrete outfit and they can tell you how much you will need. Go a little more than you actually need. Better a little more than not enough. The day of the pour wet down your hole pretty good. Dry ground or dry gravel will take a lot of the water out of the mix. Taking water out of the mix affects the cure time. Hope this helps. RIDE SAFE.
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Jeff K
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« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2011, 05:45:06 PM » |
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Formula = 1.5 times diameter of base. Also I think I would weld more to the bottom so you can go deeper. I would go at least 5 feet.
Hmm? 5 foot might be a problem. I'll hit the water table by then. Digging a hole here you have to be quick. The sand and water will fill it in faster than you can dig. 
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fudgie
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Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #11 on: September 05, 2011, 06:19:11 PM » |
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Is it attached to the house at a point? I think that will take alot of the wind weight. I personally think 2' is deep enough. Heck a house footer is only 3' deep.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR
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Jeff K
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« Reply #12 on: September 05, 2011, 06:41:00 PM » |
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i can attach to the house at about 8'
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sugerbear
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« Reply #13 on: September 05, 2011, 07:08:01 PM » |
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that LOOKS like a galvanized tower section attached to the base. if the tower is aluminum it will weigh about 75-80 lbs. you won't need a large base to hold it as you tilt it over.
but, if the tower is galvanized steel it's weigh about 400 lbs. you'll need a large base to hold it when you tilt it over.
holding it in place with a wall bracket, the base doesn't matter that much. it's when it's tilted over or self supporting the base is really important.
i have a 40 ft non-telescoping heavy duty rohn tower(galvanized) it's a heavy booger.
i THINK my base is 4ft X 4ft X 5ft with rerod and galvanized bolts ( as said before) but mine is self-supporting.
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