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joker
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« on: September 07, 2011, 09:33:17 AM » |
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my brake handle,clutch, and my radio controls are getting stiff in their operation. Any ideas? wd40? silicon spray? lube?
thanx.
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fiddle mike
Member
Posts: 1148
Nothing exceeds like excess.
Corpus Christi, TX
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« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2011, 09:39:24 AM » |
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Take off the levers and clean them up. Road grime builds up where they ride on the hydraulic plungers and makes them feel a little stiff. Clean up the bolts they ride on, as well.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16789
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2011, 09:43:30 AM » |
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my brake handle,clutch, and my radio controls are getting stiff in their operation. Any ideas? wd40? silicon spray? lube?
thanx.
I don't know about the radio, but the clutch and brake need a little lube on the pivot point and "up in there" where they push on the master cylinders. WD-40 works for me, but doesn't last as long as some other light "lube only" products such as Tri-Flow... Daniel Meyer has a story about wearing the clutch side out while in East Whoknowswhere and fixing it with stone knives and bear skins... -Mike "if Spoc can do it, Daniel can do it..." |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2011, 12:23:56 PM » |
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Yeah, WD-40 is not a good lubricant as is a good oil.
Spray the whole connection, everything, amply while working the lever constantly.
Wipe off all the excess and then put something under it because there will still be a little that will drip overnight. Wipe it again and you will be good to go for a while.
As for the radio controls I don't think there is much you can do. They are sealed for weather. If I were to use anything it would be a silicon spray. They mostly stop working well due to lack of using them, so keep moving them and they will start to work better. At least that is my experience.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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sugerbear
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2011, 12:36:56 PM » |
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electrical contact cleaner on the radio controls. silicon spray?
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The Anvil
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2011, 01:18:38 PM » |
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It's probably best not to use silicone lubricants on brake/hydraulic lines if you're not using silicone based fluid in the system as many seals don't work well with it.
WD40 is a terrific cleaner and protectant but as has been said, not a particularly good lubricant. I use LPS2 to lube things like that.
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Boxer rebellion, the Holy Child. They all pay their rent.
But none together can testify to the rhythm of a road well bent.
Saddles and zip codes, passports and gates, the Jones' keep.
In August the water is trickling, in April it's furious deep.
1997 Valk Standard, Red and White.
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Pete
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« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2011, 05:31:15 PM » |
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Levers - Thin coat of moly grease on the pivots and contact surfaces after cleaning.
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sandy
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2011, 05:49:01 PM » |
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Levers - Thin coat of moly grease on the pivots and contact surfaces after cleaning.
+1 on this statement. I've been using Bel Ray grease to lube the levers for years. Don't forget the brass bushing on the clutch side. It wears out and should be replaced. ALL metric hydraulic clutches use the same bushing. Suzukis are about $4-5. Hondas are $11-12. |
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PhredValk
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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2011, 09:32:27 PM » |
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Thanx, all. I've been trying to figure out how to make this exact question an interesting post for a while now. I guess I should have just asked.
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2011, 08:00:53 AM » |
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"electrical contact cleaner on the radio controls. silicon spray?" I've never been into the radio controls but being familiar how thoroughly Honda designs things I imagine you can not get to the contacts without some extreme dismantling of the whole assembly. It seems that cold weather sometimes affect the volume control but continuing to use the volume control will improve the response. None of the switches have actually failed. None at all. My feeling about electrical contact cleaner is, it may be too strong, and the use of which could possibly destroy the weather proof barriers Honda employs in the switch box. Seems to me it is too dangerous to use, with the results being a worse outcome. That's why I say some silicone spray may be best since that will only help the mechanical function of the switch, which in turn may help the switch perform better. *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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sugerbear
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« Reply #10 on: September 08, 2011, 11:33:00 AM » |
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contact cleaner works very well for me. mine used to set on the carport all winter. switches would stop working. squirt a little cleaner, work the switch and they work again. i probably should take it apart and clean it correctly, but never seem to get around to it. also, working the switch without the cleaner did nothing. here's what i was looking for http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l50/jimriggle/Chrome%20Switches/?start=allcourtesy of oyeaa.  |
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« Last Edit: September 08, 2011, 11:42:40 AM by sugerbear »
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2011, 07:55:31 AM » |
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Back to the question regarding lubricating the levers:
Although grease is a longer lasting lubricant than oil I myself prefer to use oil, and the reason I prefer to use oil is that, I am loath to take my levers apart from the m/c base.
Besides, I can see the oil that I apply to the lever at the connection, after working the lever for bit, start to appear around the bolt at the top of the flange and also appear at the bottom of the bushing for the clutch. A visual affirmation that all the moving parts are getting lubricated.
I more likely have to do this oiling exercise quite a bit more that if I were to use a grease but I like the feeling of washing the connection with the oil and possibly flushing any accumulated grit or grim from the assembly.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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