fork seals and springs, what parts do I need

[VegasF6]

Hi, right fork weeps pretty good. I already have the progressive springs still new in the package awaiting install. Shop page does mention doing springs without the seals, but that's not what I need. In addition, a nice member here forwarded me some fork seal instructions, but these instructions are for changing the seals in place, without removing the fork legs. I do have the shop manual to follow but want to get some advice here, and then I want to get these parts ordered asap.

So, like I said, I have the springs. I am looking at ordering the "all balls" fork seals and dust wipers. I have seen mixed reviews on these. Comments? Do I need the dust boots? Mine look good, but I wouldn't be surprised if they tear upon removal.

The instructions I have also mention guide bushing 51414-MT7-003  and slider bushing 51415-MCH-003  (2 pieces of each) am I likely to need these?

Finally, 2 tools are mentioned (pulling this right from Chet's site) the Honda lock nut wrench. I am sure I could build this, but if the $25 price mentioned on the website is close to accurate, I probably wouldn't try. Anyone bought this recently? Know if it's still available and what it cost you? The other tool? Well, I dunno what that was.

And, fork oil weight, and how much? Synthetic?

[VegasF6]

Just to reply to my own thread, the part # Chet gives is wrong, it's 07VMA-MZ0010A note the third character, the V.
Also, HDL lists the tool for $45.
http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=5427&str=0
Finally, this link talks about making the tool with much more commonly available sch 40 1.25 pipe from the home store.
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/resources/handy-motorcycle-tools/

So, those things combined make it much more likely I will be making my own tool. Still have to price the pipe, and have to sacrifice a socket to mount this on a torque wrench. Or, make my own socket adapter, that sounds like too much work though.

[tank_post142]

just make it out of a 32MM deepwell socket and skip the pipe and welding.

[lucky_1_chris]

I did mine the weekend before last. The special nut on the left fork will be much easier to crack loose and retorque if you do it on the bike unless you have a vice bolted down to something to hold the fork. That bitch is on there. You can drop the wheel, run the axle back through, and use a jack to raise it outta the fork tube to get at it.

The bushings are pretty cheap. Might as well order them in case you need them. You can use PVC to drive the bushings and seals in

You don't need to pull the damper on the right fork unless you want to. Just pump the damper to get the oil out and flush and dump it a couple times.

The insert in the seal package (OEM) says the marks go up, but they don't. They go down (out) towards the axle.

If the holes in the axle holder don't line up perfect after you've got them back together, you can adjust the height of the left fork with the fork cap lock nut. The manual says to bottom the lock nut down on the damper on the right fork, so I didn't mess with the height of the right fork. It probably won't be off much at all.

Progressive springs and fresh oil made HUGE difference in my bike. Thanks to Daniel for the tip on the springs and the advice on rebuilding the forks.

Good luck

[VegasF6]

Great tips, thanks!

[RonW]

I already have the progressive springs still new in the package awaiting install. Shop page does mention doing springs without the seals, but that's not what I need.

If you don't have much experience with the Valk forks there's a reason for doing the Progressive Springs as a separate operation. Or if you don't have experience changing oil seals in general. Simply so you don't bite off more than you can chew. For example, the amount of threads on the rods that protrude above the 14mm left fork's lock nut and the right fork's 17mm lock nut has to be the same to keep your fork aligned vertically. Uh-oh, hypothetically that is, you neglected to measure and write down the threads distance before you disassembled the fork parts and now you haven't a clue how to re-set the two lock nuts when you put the fork parts back together. You can set both lock nuts evenly but is the proper distance 5/8-inches or ½-inch?? (If the two 'distances' differ for some reason on the original setting, you'll have to decide whether to rely on and replicate the difference, or whether to thread the lock nuts down evenly for even pre-sets.)  The practice run is indispensable. With oil seal replacements on most other bike forks all you gotta do is remove the forks from the bike and remove the fork caps and you're half way done. With the Valk forks, you'll have to get pass removing the spring seat stopper on the right fork as well as the inner fork bolt on the left fork. IMHO, both of these are easier to remove with the forks on the bike. I recommend investing in the $45 special wrench for the left fork's inner bolt. It's long shaft does a nice job keeping the special wrench aligned so you don't end up stripping the fine internal threads in the fork tube. If you do, $45 is nothing in comparison.

The insert in the oil seal package (OEM) says the marks go up, but they don't. They go down (out) towards the axle.

I think it's because the Valk forks are inverted forks. 'Up' is 'down' with this type of orientation.

[VegasF6]

Thanks Ron, that nut has been one of my concerns. I have done fork seals before a time or two, but it's been awhile and those front ends where not like the Valk. Honda dirtbike (non-inverted) and my old 'zuki gs1000.

So, I am not quite clear on this, I should do the spring job while the forks are mounted, and then at a later time remove the fork tubes and do the seals? I guess I am having trouble visualizing the benefit to that. Perhaps pictures will help, have to look at a diagram. And finish watching the VTX fork seal installation on you tube.

[RonW]

So, I am not quite clear on this, I should do the spring job while the forks are mounted, and then at a later time remove the fork tubes and do the seals? I guess I am having trouble visualizing the benefit to that.

Whoops, I probably over dramatized the repair. I merely meant to suggest that putting in the Progressives Springs while you're waiting for the oil seals to arrive would familiarize you with the lock nuts. On a second thought, though, I'm wary of the impact that the stiffer Progressive Springs would have on your already weeping right fork seal. I guess you could try practice removing the two lock nuts than capping things back in place without putting in the Progressives for the same purpose. I'll PM you the Internet write-up to use as a reference that addresses this snag. Again, even if you were only replacing oil seals to me it's easier to get those lock nuts loose before you remove the forks from the triple tree unless you have some kind of vice setup to hold the fork legs. Another thing to know is that the left fork has the compression damper, while the right fork has the rebound damper or visa versa (every Valk owner gets the peculiarity mixed up).

*Note: I see that your Email address is hidden. You can Email me and I'll send you the aforementioned Internet write-up on fork repair (click on my user name on the left sidebar). Don't use your main Email address. My Email address that is displayed isn't my primary Email for privacy reasons.

[lucky_1_chris]

I already have the progressive springs still new in the package awaiting install. Shop page does mention doing springs without the seals, but that's not what I need.

If you don't have much experience with the Valk forks there's a reason for doing the Progressive Springs as a separate operation. Or if you don't have experience changing oil seals in general. Simply so you don't bite off more than you can chew. For example, the amount of threads on the rods that protrude above the 14mm left fork's lock nut and the right fork's 17mm lock nut has to be the same to keep your fork aligned vertically. Uh-oh, hypothetically that is, you neglected to measure and write down the threads distance before you disassembled the fork parts and now you haven't a clue how to re-set the two lock nuts when you put the fork parts back together. You can set both lock nuts evenly but is the proper distance 5/8-inches or ½-inch?? (If the two 'distances' differ for some reason on the original setting, you'll have to decide whether to rely on and replicate the difference, or whether to thread the lock nuts down evenly for even pre-sets.)  The practice run is indispensable. With oil seal replacements on most other bike forks all you gotta do is remove the forks from the bike and remove the fork caps and you're half way done. With the Valk forks, you'll have to get pass removing the spring seat stopper on the right fork as well as the inner fork bolt on the left fork. IMHO, both of these are easier to remove with the forks on the bike. I recommend investing in the $45 special wrench for the left fork's inner bolt. It's long shaft does a nice job keeping the special wrench aligned so you don't end up stripping the fine internal threads in the fork tube. If you do, $45 is nothing in comparison.

The insert in the oil seal package (OEM) says the marks go up, but they don't. They go down (out) towards the axle.

I think it's because the Valk forks are inverted forks. 'Up' is 'down' with this type of orientation.

Not really a big deal if you don't keep the measurement. Per the manual, the right fork lock nut gets bottomed on the dampener, so all you gotta do is adjust the left fork. It's much easier to compress the spring to get that retainer off and on if the forks are off the bike, especially if you're by yourself. The only real reason to record the measurements at disassembly would be to save the time on adjusting them at reassembly. Not a big deal.

[RonW]

Not really a big deal if you don't keep the measurement. Per the manual, the right fork lock nut gets bottomed on the dampener, so all you gotta do is adjust the left fork. It's much easier to compress the spring to get that retainer off and on if the forks are off the bike, especially if you're by yourself. The only real reason to record the measurements at disassembly would be to save the time on adjusting them at reassembly. Not a big deal.

I don't think it'll make a big difference either, but when you're in the dark it's just another thing not to worry about if you leave the lock nuts in the stock setting. Btw, I used a stubby ¼-inch ratchet to press down the spring collar to remove the pesky seat stopper (slotted washer) under spring pressure on the right fork. The knob on the ratchet is round but it does the job just fine. Plus, it's only necessary to insert the ratchet into one of the holes on the spring collar, not both sides, so it gives you a free hand to grasp the seat stopper. You're only compressing the coil spring down 1/16th of an inch to free the seat stopper. The manual illustrates "pushing down the spring collar" using your hand. Can it be done that way? Also, the stubby ratchet is the kind you buy in the tool sale bin and has a rubber handle to make it slip proof. I haven't tried a plain metal ¼-inch ratchet.

[lucky_1_chris]

Not really a big deal if you don't keep the measurement. Per the manual, the right fork lock nut gets bottomed on the dampener, so all you gotta do is adjust the left fork. It's much easier to compress the spring to get that retainer off and on if the forks are off the bike, especially if you're by yourself. The only real reason to record the measurements at disassembly would be to save the time on adjusting them at reassembly. Not a big deal.

I don't think it'll make a big difference either, but when you're in the dark it's just another thing not to worry about if you leave the lock nuts in the stock setting. Btw, I used a stubby ¼-inch ratchet to press down the spring collar to remove the pesky seat stopper (slotted washer) under spring pressure on the right fork. The knob on the ratchet is round but it does the job just fine. Plus, it's only necessary to insert the ratchet into one of the holes on the spring collar, not both sides, so it gives you a free hand to grasp the seat stopper. You're only compressing the coil spring down 1/16th of an inch to free the seat stopper. The manual illustrates "pushing down the spring collar" using your hand. Can it be done that way? Also, the stubby ratchet is the kind you buy in the tool sale bin and has a rubber handle to make it slip proof. I haven't tried a plain metal ¼-inch ratchet.

Bare's the man. His write ups have helped me many a time.

Yes, you can compress the spring with your hand.

The easiest way for me was to break everything loose on the bike. Break down, drain, and reassemble hand tight off the bike, then torque the special nut and adjust while back in the trees.

[RonW]

Agreed, Bare's the man. Never read a write-up that stuck to the point as much and never drifted off about the neighbor's cat said meow to him, etc. The way he writes too is so easy to read. Probably dumbed it down a lot.

[VegasF6]

Sounds great. Tips like these are invaluable. The shop manual is great to have, but first hand experience from real people is even better. Ordered the parts yesterday, but looks like this weekend is out for the repair, will have to wait until the next one. Bummer, the weather is finally getting nice.

[VegasF6]

Oh YAY. Just when I thought I might get some time to work on MY stuff, the wife's hydroboost unit went out. Yet another weekend shot.