Starter solenoid problem

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I wanted to give everyone a heads up on this. I knew about and had taken care of the corroded connector issue which can come up on our Valkyrie starter solenoids thanks to our knowledgeable club members.

However mine broke in what might be a new way and I wanted to give everyone a heads up.

I had noticed my volt meter was taking longer to get in the “green zone” after starting and I had checked battery connections and battery voltage and all seemed OK. Then Sunday when I turned the key on I had nothing. When checking the solenoid I discovered the fuse in the top of it must have corroded causing high heat and resistance which had melted one side of the fuse and damaged the solenoid. $100 later she is sitting in the barn waiting on the new solenoid to arrive. One that I wouldn’t have had to buy if I had pulled the fuse and reinstalled it a few times to clean up the connection. It would have been a bad deal if it happened a long way from home.

[R J]

I hope this is the part you have on order.



It is for an earlier Gold Wing but it sure beats having to buy the whole wiring loom to get the one you need for a Valkyrie.......

Mine blew about a year and a half ago..   I think there is one wire ya have to move, but that is easy to do.

Match the wires before you go to install and you will know the one needing moved......

[junior]

i had the same problem. i wound up installing a K&L universal starter relay its almost a direct fit. it has 6mm studs for the batt. cables and i opted to not use the fuse conector that is on the top i installed an inline fusefrom the pos post to the wire that feeds the ing ti the key switch.
the part # is 21-2994 and comes with wires and a plug. the kit and inline fuse cost a wopping 47 dollars and change

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I hope this is the part you have on order.



It is for an earlier Gold Wing but it sure beats having to buy the whole wiring loom to get the one you need for a Valkyrie.......

Mine blew about a year and a half ago..   I think there is one wire ya have to move, but that is easy to do.

Match the wires before you go to install and you will know the one needing moved......

Nope, I ordered the OEM part but that looks like a better fix in many ways. I was lucky that my wiring and wiring connector were not damaged. I'd been cleaning the connector as needed but had never thought about doing the same with the fuse.

[fudgie]

I wanted to give everyone a heads up on this. I knew about and had taken care of the corroded connector issue which can come up on our Valkyrie starter solenoids thanks to our knowledgeable club members.

However mine broke in what might be a new way and I wanted to give everyone a heads up.

I had noticed my volt meter was taking longer to get in the “green zone” after starting and I had checked battery connections and battery voltage and all seemed OK. Then Sunday when I turned the key on I had nothing. When checking the solenoid I discovered the fuse in the top of it must have corroded causing high heat and resistance which had melted one side of the fuse and damaged the solenoid. $100 later she is sitting in the barn waiting on the new solenoid to arrive. One that I wouldn’t have had to buy if I had pulled the fuse and reinstalled it a few times to clean up the connection. It would have been a bad deal if it happened a long way from home.

Where do I find this fuse?

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

It sits right in the top of the solenoid. 30amp if I remember correctly. There should be a spare in the rubber solenoid cover too.

I never even noticed it there when I cleaned the connector up.

[Black Dog]

Follow this link, and scroll all the way down to 'Starter Relay Problem...

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Shows a good picture, and has some good info.

I just posted this to another reply, so I had it handy 

Black Dog