Front wheel align

[fiddle mike]

This is from the Dammit Report:

I have the shop manual and know how to use it, yet nearly every time I install the front wheel I have to resort to do-overs, cuss words and hammer time.

I got the wheel on and the rotor's clearing the caliper but  only becauseI ended up loosening the left pinch bolts and smacking the axle with a ball peen. 

[RonW]

I got the wheel on and the rotor's clearing the caliper but  only becauseI ended up loosening the left pinch bolts and smacking the axle with a ball peen.

In place of a ball preen hammer, some owners tighten the axle bolt down on the right side BEFORE tightening the left-side pinch bolts to ensure that the shoulder on the axle shaft bottoms out and is fully seated in its left fork recess. Warning .... unbolt the axle bolt before tightening down the left pinch bolts to restore the steps back in their proper order. Then re-tighten down the axle bolt that you just loosened. Don't get lazy here. Arguably you can do whatever you like.

The overall problem may be that your forks are not aligned with same distance vertically so the axle holes don't line up horizontally as they should. There's preset lock nuts under the fork caps that you can adjust accordingly, but I'm not recommending it because in the process you may screw up other things even more. Let's say that one fork is indeed lower than the other, do you adjust that fork higher or the opposite fork lower, etc.

[fiddle mike]

I got the wheel on and the rotor's clearing the caliper but  only becauseI ended up loosening the left pinch bolts and smacking the axle with a ball peen.

In place of a ball preen hammer, some owners tighten the axle bolt down on the right side BEFORE tightening the left-side pinch bolts to ensure that the shoulder on the axle shaft bottoms out and is fully seated in its left fork recess. Warning .... unbolt the axle bolt before tightening down the left pinch bolts to restore the steps back in their proper order. Then re-tighten down the axle bolt that you just loosened. Don't get lazy here. Arguably you can do whatever you like.

The overall problem may be that your forks are not aligned with same distance vertically so the axle holes don't line up horizontally as they should. There's preset lock nuts under the fork caps that you can adjust accordingly, but I'm not recommending it because in the process you may screw up other things even more. Let's say that one fork is indeed lower than the other, do you adjust that fork higher or the opposite fork lower, etc.

I'll give a shot.  Thanks, Ron.

[Chrisj CMA]

Well if you get the axle in ALL THE WAY first, then there wont be re-do's and cussing and drama.........its just what has to be.  I think the part hat gets some is that after you get that axle all the way in, before you tighten the clutch side pinch bolts....some forks want to jump away from the head of the axle, you have to watch and not let it if yours does this.

[Tx Bohemian]

 ...yet nearly every time I install (NAME ANY PART HERE) I have to resort to do-overs, cuss words and hammer time.

So what's the problem??

For the first year or so I thought "Valkyrie" in Latin meant: If you work on one thing on this bike be prepared to fix/work on something else.

I was even scared to wash it cause once after washing it ran bad (needed intake O-rings) and another time it wouldn't start (driving lights got turned on, ran battery down).

However I think now I got all the bugs worked out (knockin on wood) and now I'm able to enjoy miles of "trouble free" riding.

[fiddle mike]

 ...yet nearly every time I install (NAME ANY PART HERE) I have to resort to do-overs, cuss words and hammer time.

So what's the problem??

For the first year or so I thought "Valkyrie" in Latin meant: If you work on one thing on this bike be prepared to fix/work on something else.

I was even scared to wash it cause once after washing it ran bad (needed intake O-rings) and another time it wouldn't start (driving lights got turned on, ran battery down).

However I think now I got all the bugs worked out (knockin on wood) and now I'm able to enjoy miles of "trouble free" riding.

There are three Hondas and a Yamaha sitting in the yard and this is the only chore that really becomes a chore.  And not every time, mind you.  I wouldn't be messing with it  the week of a ride if the choice wasn't  "replace the tire or ride the VLX".

[Cattman]

This is from Carl Kudlows' instructions on Rattlebars site. Look at # 15. This normally gets everything to line back up.

Front Wheel Installation

1.Lightly grease axle to prevent corrosion and make for easier removal
2.Roll wheel under the front fender
3.Insert right side spacer
4.Grease inside of speedo gear box and insert on the left side being certain that the rotation stop on the speedo gear box is just behind (toward the radiator or rear) the stop on the left fork leg
5.Lift the wheel with your feet and align
6.Insert the axle from the left (of the bike) and push it in until it is flush with the outside of the fork leg (top to bottom)
7.Insert and torque the left (only!!!, not the right) axle pinch bolts (6mm hex) to 16 ft.lb. (22Nm)
8.Insert and torque the axle bolt on the right side (22mm) to 67 ft.lb. (90Nm)
Do NOT tighten the right axle pinch bolts yet!!! The correct sequence is critical to maintain correct fork alignment!!!
9.Gently spread the pads in the calipers with a tire iron or large screwdriver
Install both calipers (12mm) and torque the mounting bolts to 22 ft.lb. (30Nm)
10.Align the slots in the speedo cable and insert it into the speedo gear box – if the cable won’t go in all the way, gently push on the cable while turning the wheel – insert and gently tighten the phillips screw (careful – it can break easily)
11.Insert the brake lines into the holders on the fender
12.Insert the speedo cable into the wire holder on the left caliper
13.Check the front wheel for relatively free rotation (some brake pad drag)
14.Pump the front brakes until pressure returns!!!!!!!!!!!
15.Lower and remove the Cycle Lift
Straddle the bike, apply the front brakes and pump the front forks up and down several times to seat the axle (or you can compress the forks with straps and then tighten the right axle pinch bolts)
16.Only now do you tighten the right axle pinch bolts to 16 ft.lb. (22Nm)
Insert the chrome caps into the 4 axle pinch bolt heads
Pump the front brakes to be sure they are working!!!

[fiddle mike]

This is from Carl Kudlows' instructions on Rattlebars site. Look at # 15. This normally gets everything to line back up.

Looks like that was lifted out of the service manual.  It's the first way I did it.

[lucky_1_chris]

Why is the right side pinch boots that get tightened last? If the wheel spacer is against the inside of of the fork, and the axle bolt is against the outside, seems like there's no wiggle room. I've always temporarily loosened the left pinch bolts, bounced the front end, then retightened. I always thought this prevented the forks from being in a bind cuz it pulls the left fork in a hair when you torque the axle. Why is it backwards on the Valkyrie?

[Ricky-D]

With a large allen wrench in the one end of the axle and a 6 point socket on the axle nut there will never be a problem tightening down the front axle.

All the fuss over the pinch bolts and which to tighten/loosen/re-tighten is an exercise in futility.

Get the proper tools and you'll not have a problem with such a simple task as: Tightening the front axle.

***

[lucky_1_chris]

With a large allen wrench in the one end of the axle and a 6 point socket on the axle nut there will never be a problem tightening down the front axle.

All the fuss over the pinch bolts and which to tighten/loosen/re-tighten is an exercise in futility.

Get the proper tools and you'll not have a problem with such a simple task as: Tightening the front axle.

***

Even after doing it like this you'd still need to bounce the front end to let the fork settle, wouldn't you? Seems easier just to temporarily tighten the left pinch bolts to hold the axle while it's torqued down than using 2 tools at the same time. JMO.

[rodeo1]

why pray tell, is it so hard for some of you to just follow factory instructions ? why do some folks insist that there are better ways ? it would seem to me that honda, who definitly engineered the number one power cruiser on earth, would certainly know how to change the front tire.

i have always followed the factory instructions to the letter and "never, ever" had any problems. but then i have never had an OEM petcock go south, replaced an "elusive" o-ring, or run a car tire, so heck, what would i know ?

being a mechanic for many many years, and still feel dumb around the forum crowds. go figure !

[lucky_1_chris]

why pray tell, is it so hard for some of you to just follow factory instructions ? why do some folks insist that there are better ways ? it would seem to me that honda, who definitly engineered the number one power cruiser on earth, would certainly know how to change the front tire.

i have always followed the factory instructions to the letter and "never, ever" had any problems. but then i have never had an OEM petcock go south, replaced an "elusive" o-ring, or run a car tire, so heck, what would i know ?

being a mechanic for many many years, and still feel dumb around the forum crowds. go figure !

Every bike I've ever messed with, including the two other Hondas I've owned were all supposed to have the pinch bolts opposite the axle bolt tightened, then torque the axle, then the axle bolt side pinch bolts, then temporarily loosen the opposite pinch bolts and bounce the front end to settle the forks and seat the axle, then re-tighten those pinch bolts.

The VTX 1800 has the same front end as the Valk, and it's the same as above for the VTX. I'm curious why the Valk manual says to do it backwards. The forks can't settle by bouncing the front end if only the right side pinch bolts are loose. There's no room for it to move. If you don't loosen the left pinch bolts after torquing the axle, the left fork can be in a bind, and there may be clearance issues. Loosening the left pinch bolts and bouncing the front end would probably solve the OP's problem (assuming the axle was seated fully on the speedo) cuz it would accomplish the same thing he did with the hammer.

Does anyone know why the Valk manual is opposite most other bikes, including other Hondas with the same front end? Is it a mistake in the manual or am I missing something?

[Ricky-D]

I understand the bouncing exercise and why it is suggested since it is important that the relationship between the shock absorbers and the axle is maintained in the proper dimensional context.

The relationship of the right hand shock absorber to the axle is fixed and cannot be changed.

It is the left hand shock absorber and it's relationship to the axle that can be altered to a point where the brake caliper and rotor are in conflict and hit each other.

I've changed enough tires on my Valkyrie that I know exactly where the axle needs to be (left hand side) for my bike and do not have to resort to all the other methods described to get it back together correctly and working properly. For instance bouncing.

Besides all that, I doubt that the axle would have that hex for no apparent reason if were not there for a wrench!

***

[RonW]

There's a way to seat the front axle on the Valk that will make it ride smooth as silk at 10mph. You can feel the gyroscopic effect kick in on the front wheel even at a constant speed of 10mph, not a mm of wobble at all. If there is a smidgen of wobble there is no scientific instrument on the planet that's sensitive enough to measure that low degree of wobble. On accel at higher speeds the gyroscopic effect of a spinning wheel stabilizes the bike like on any bike, but at very slow speeds attaining the same stability is elusive. Of course there's a trick to it. And naturally the few owners who know the trick aren't divulging the secret recipe. If you've never experienced the slow speed stability for yourself, then it's simply something impossible to describe in words alone, or understand, it's like expecting a blind man to see something he can not.

If you re-seat your axle a few days in a row, you'll notice that the bike starts to ride smoother from the day before. It only involves loosening a total of 5 bolts what the heck.

[lucky_1_chris]

There's a way to seat the front axle on the Valk that will make it ride smooth as silk at 10mph. You can feel the gyroscopic effect kick in on the front wheel even at a constant speed of 10mph, not a mm of wobble at all. If there is a smidgen of wobble there is no scientific instrument on the planet that's sensitive enough to measure that low degree of wobble. On accel at higher speeds the gyroscopic effect of a spinning wheel stabilizes the bike like on any bike, but at very slow speeds attaining the same stability is elusive. Of course there's a trick to it. And naturally the few owners who know the trick aren't divulging the secret recipe. If you've never experienced the slow speed stability for yourself, then it's simply something impossible to describe in words alone, or understand, it's like expecting a blind man to see something he can not.

If you re-seat your axle a few days in a row, you'll notice that the bike starts to ride smoother from the day before. It only involves loosening a total of 5 bolts what the heck.

I've experienced it. I changed an elusive o-ring and BAM. It's like butter. Like indescribable butter.

[rodeo1]

actually, sometimes it gets better if you rebuild the pingle.

there is no sense in wasting time trying to make sense out of it, no one will listen to the simple cure. most people on any forum want to hear the long hard way to fix something. try going to the shelby cobra website and watch the oil and sparkplug wars that go on. same thing here. i use ford 5W30 in my shelby cause thats what the factory said to use, but every amzoil dealer in town has a better oil, yet for what a shelby costs, you certainly would think ford would reccomend the right oil, now wouldn't you ?

just the way people are i suppose. so change out them petcocks, put in new o-rings, and mount up them car tires, its your bike so do your thing.

[RonW]

I've experienced it. I changed an elusive o-ring and BAM. It's like butter. Like indescribable butter.

Thankyou, sir. Just got back riding my Shadow 600, and I was thinking about it, and the 'butter' speed on the VALK is 5mph or below. I've never so far been able to replicate it, thus, it lives in memory. A large portion of my riding is in bumper to bumper traffic so the ultra smoothness was such a pleasure at that low speed. Then one day I had the handlebars unclamped and resting on the fuel tank and the bike fell against the wall (9-inches away) before I fully realized that I couldn't stop the bike from falling by grabbing the handlebars, poof.