Re. the National Cycle light bar.

[John Schmidt]

I came across a nice used one and in mounting it, found two problems with it; first, the turn signals hit the I/S radiator pods when I turn the front wheel all the way left or right. Second, the driving lights/spots/passing lamps, point down at a slight angle, too far to be of any use. Since it didn't come with any instructions, I wondering if there is any adjustment to them, I need to have it shining more than ten feet out in front. As for the turns hitting the radiator pods, does anyone have one mounted on their I/S? If so, do the turn signals hit the pods?

[Brian]

John,
There is adjustment that requires a you to use a deep well socket with a slot cut down the side for the wires. Go back in the search thread and find my review of this light bar. You will need an allen wrench too to drop the turn signal light body to gain access to the tightening nut for the spot light pod. I adjusted my lights to match that of the headlight on low beam. You will need to have the bike back about 25 feet shining on a wall or another flat surface like your garage door. I have this mounted on a 97 standard with the national cycle windshield. The turn signals come no where close to hitting anything. I also raised the stock front turn signals and left them on the fork for more lights up front.

You will need a 5/32 or 4mm allen wrench and a 9/16 or 14 mm deep socket with a slot. This socket is sometimes used in the auto trade to remove and install oxygen sensors. I bought a cheap socket for $3 and cut a slot in it with a grinder and rounded off the sharp edges with a dremel and a file. I hope this helps. Good luck.

[John Schmidt]

Thanks Brian, I'll mess with it more tomorrow. I didn't want to start taking it apart before asking, I already have a mark on the garage door for the headlight so that will come in handy.

[Brian]

John,
I have the right light aimed a little more towards the edge of the road to help spot Deer and other critters.

[John Schmidt]

I picked up the 9/16" socket and cut the slot, scavenged an old 4mm allen and cut it down, then started pulling it apart. I have the bar installed now, got the wiring like I wanted it with the driving lights still totally separate from the headlight circuit. I still need to have them aimed but maybe tomorrow night. I'm in the middle of some testing and wearing a monitor, compliments of my cardiologist. The age factor is showing up a little and the old pump skips once in a while. Certainly gets my attention. Not much sleep last couple nights but should be back on the project tomorrow afternoon. The bar does look good but the turns still smack my radiator pods when I turn the wheel full left/right. Don't do that while riding so I'm not going to worry about it.

Thanks for the advice on the tools, sure made a difference on taking them apart.

[9Ball]

If you're careful you can also bend the bracket slightly to fine tune the adjustment.  Just don't go overboard and crack the chrome.