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Author Topic: The fat lady wont start  (Read 1536 times)
pitbull
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*****
Posts: 389


Norfolk , United Kingdom


« on: September 30, 2011, 01:19:49 PM »

Today I got the Valk out of my workshop,started her up and rode to the front of my house.I turned the bike off and went and locked the workshop and house.Put all the gear on,sat on the Valk,ignition on and,,,,,,,nothing but a click from under the right hand side cover.
I noticed that the idiot lights were dim and then all of a sudden they became bright again.I attempted to start and just got a click again.
I went and fetched my volt meter and the battery was showing 12.4v but every time I hit the starter I just get this click,which sounds like a fuse popping.All the fuses are ok.When I hit the starter all the lights in the clocks go dim but after a couple of minutes they brighten back up again.
I left the volt meter connected to the battery,with the ignition on the voltage on the battery drops to less than 1v,turn the key off and the battery slowly climbs back to 12.4v.
My ride is a 97 standard and before I start pulling her apart I thought I would run the issue past you knowledgable people first.
Thanks in advance,

Pitbull
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3W-lonerider
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Posts: 1014

Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2011, 01:37:32 PM »

your battery took a crap..buy a new one..problem solved.
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indybobm
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Posts: 1602

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2011, 01:42:24 PM »

Sounds like your battery has either died, or you have a lot of corrosion where the cables attach to the battery. Disconnect the cables from the battery and clean the cable ends and the battery terminals. A badly corroded connection where the negative cable attaches to the frame could keep your battery from charging while you are riding it but I doubt if it would have started in the first place today. 
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
MP
Member
*****
Posts: 5532


1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar

North Dakota


« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2011, 01:49:53 PM »

your battery took a crap..buy a new one..problem solved.

+1.  Has happened to me, just like that!

MP
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"Ridin' with Cycho"
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14808


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2011, 02:03:04 PM »

The way to rule in or rule out a bad battery is to jump the bike to a known GOOD battery (like your car) and if it starts you know its the battery.  I would do a few things either way as a matter of preventitive mx:
1.  If you have never or not in a long time...do the starter buttom maintenance
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html
2. remove the starter relay from its "perch" behind the right side cover and make sure the connections are clean and dry, add some dilactic grease.......
3. then I would say since you have a 97(if pic is current in the avatar) add a voltage meter if not already done to monitor alternator and battery condition.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2011, 02:03:44 PM »

Yep, as long as you connected directly to the battery posts the problem is a bad battery.

If however you connected to the battery cables or some place near you should again clip the meter to the battery posts and test again to eliminate the possibility of bad battery/cable connections.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2011, 04:27:08 PM »

Pulled in the garage after coming home from work went into the house came back out about 15 minutes later hit the starter bike turned over for a second and then nothing. BATTERY WAS TOAST.
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RonW
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2011, 04:47:27 PM »


I left the volt meter connected to the battery,with the ignition on the voltage on the battery drops to less than 1v,turn the key off and the battery slowly climbs back to 12.4v.


Anything less than 9.5v when you press the starter button means that your battery is toast. Btw, I dunno why people always recommend having a suspect battery 'load tested' at a parts store. The largest LOAD that a battery has to handle is cranking the starter motor. In that sense, the way you connected the voltmeter to the battery is the equivalent of a load test.


Quote

Today I got the Valk out of my workshop,started her up and rode to the front of my house.I turned the bike off and went and locked the workshop and house.Put all the gear on,sat on the Valk,ignition on and,,,,,,,nothing but a click from under the right hand side cover.


After the bike has sat for a while, you might manage to squeeze ONE start up from a defective battery. Just don't stop anywhere because the bike won't start up again leaving you stranded. Fortunately, this happened to you just outside the house. LOL, you did yourself a huge favor by going back to lock up the workshop in the first instance. The loud 'click' sound that you heard is the electromagnet in the starter-relay closing the internal contacts. When you press the start button electricity is sent to the electromagnet and a plunger slams (loudly) into the internal contacts bridging the starter motor directly to the battery. The plunger is the upside down 'T' in the diagram below. Mind you, I wouldn't rule out something wrong with the charging system that may have led to a poor battery until you test the alternator, etc.

« Last Edit: September 30, 2011, 05:05:30 PM by RONW » Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
eric in md
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Posts: 2495


ride hard now we all can rest when were gone !!!

in the mountains .......cumberland md


« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2011, 09:30:43 PM »

battery then go ride .. enjoy
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valkyriemc
Member
*****
Posts: 392


2000 blu/slvr Interstate, 2018 Ultra Limited

NE Florida


« Reply #9 on: October 01, 2011, 05:40:32 AM »


I left the volt meter connected to the battery,with the ignition on the voltage on the battery drops to less than 1v,turn the key off and the battery slowly climbs back to 12.4v.


Anything less than 9.5v when you press the starter button means that your battery is toast. Btw, I dunno why people always recommend having a suspect battery 'load tested' at a parts store. The largest LOAD that a battery has to handle is cranking the starter motor. In that sense, the way you connected the voltmeter to the battery is the equivalent of a load test.


Quote

Today I got the Valk out of my workshop,started her up and rode to the front of my house.I turned the bike off and went and locked the workshop and house.Put all the gear on,sat on the Valk,ignition on and,,,,,,,nothing but a click from under the right hand side cover.


After the bike has sat for a while, you might manage to squeeze ONE start up from a defective battery. Just don't stop anywhere because the bike won't start up again leaving you stranded. Fortunately, this happened to you just outside the house. LOL, you did yourself a huge favor by going back to lock up the workshop in the first instance. The loud 'click' sound that you heard is the electromagnet in the starter-relay closing the internal contacts. When you press the start button electricity is sent to the electromagnet and a plunger slams (loudly) into the internal contacts bridging the starter motor directly to the battery. The plunger is the upside down 'T' in the diagram below. Mind you, I wouldn't rule out something wrong with the charging system that may have led to a poor battery until you test the alternator, etc.




Along with the above check out this thread for info and picture;
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,25289.msg230026.html#msg230026
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Veteran USN '70-'76
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