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Author Topic: REPLACING HEADLIGHT BULB/STANDARD  (Read 4369 times)
gordorad
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Posts: 545


Washington, MO


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« on: October 03, 2011, 10:45:04 AM »

I've searched on this forum and online and can not find info on changing the headlight bulb... Any links or tips??

Thanks.

Gordo


www.handcolored66.com
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2011, 10:55:41 AM »

You will have to remove the headlight from the bucket to gain access to the rear of the light, from there it will be easy to see what to do.

A manual is a good thing to have for this kind of operation.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16769


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2011, 11:03:05 AM »

http://valkyrienorway.com/1520manual/valkyriegl1500.zip     <----- the manual

BigBF's Tip:
Headlight The Best one is Sylvania Silver Star H-4 / 9003
Brighter brake light get bulb #3496
#1157 3/32 candle power
#3496 3/43 candle power


    http://bigbf.com/        <--------- bigbf's web page

-Mike
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14756


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2011, 11:24:41 AM »

be very careful not to touch the new bulb with bare hands.  That will make it burn out very quickly (oils from skin)  Its easy to change
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Dag
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I have a love affair with a bumblebee

Country Rep. Norway


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« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2011, 11:32:14 AM »

I have a spare headlight, so I went down to the garage and took some pictures:

Loosen the two screws below (each side) of the headlight and pull the lower part.




Remove the plug for the bulb and release the spring that holds the bulb in place.


Ta-daaa  Smiley
« Last Edit: October 03, 2011, 11:34:18 AM by Dag » Logged

The question is not what you look at...but what you see...
gordorad
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Washington, MO


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« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2011, 11:53:49 AM »

thanks for the tips!!!
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JC
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Posts: 321


The Beast

Franklin, TN


« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2011, 02:08:54 PM »

NAPA sells an off road 100/80W blub. I found it to be much brighter (duh) but isn't so bright that it bothers the cages when on low-beam. Haven't noticed any problems with it pulling too much current or causing enough heat that the lenses to haze over either.
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Damn thing gives me the grins every time I get on it!
9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2011, 03:28:00 PM »

NAPA sells an off road 100/80W blub. I found it to be much brighter (duh) but isn't so bright that it bothers the cages when on low-beam. Haven't noticed any problems with it pulling too much current or causing enough heat that the lenses to haze over either.

you'll find that the OEM plug will eventually start to fail or actually fail due to heat from this bulb.  You can replace the factory plug with a ceramic one from NAPA (search for part number provided in a post from Kingbee).  Make sure to solder and shrinkwrap the splices and you'll never have to worry about failure of the plug.  This plug probably has gone up in price, but I remember it was around $7 a few year back.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2011, 06:42:15 PM »

NAPA sells an off road 100/80W blub. I found it to be much brighter (duh) but isn't so bright that it bothers the cages when on low-beam. Haven't noticed any problems with it pulling too much current or causing enough heat that the lenses to haze over either.

you'll find that the OEM plug will eventually start to fail or actually fail due to heat from this bulb.  You can replace the factory plug with a ceramic one from NAPA (search for part number provided in a post from Kingbee).  Make sure to solder and shrinkwrap the splices and you'll never have to worry about failure of the plug.  This plug probably has gone up in price, but I remember it was around $7 a few year back.

Keep an eye on your wiring too.
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Rio Wil
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Posts: 1352



« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2011, 08:54:02 PM »

NAPA sells an off road 100/80W blub. I found it to be much brighter (duh) but isn't so bright that it bothers the cages when on low-beam. Haven't noticed any problems with it pulling too much current or causing enough heat that the lenses to haze over either.

you'll find that the OEM plug will eventually start to fail or actually fail due to heat from this bulb.  You can replace the factory plug with a ceramic one from NAPA (search for part number provided in a post from Kingbee).  Make sure to solder and shrinkwrap the splices and you'll never have to worry about failure of the plug.  This plug probably has gone up in price, but I remember it was around $7 a few year back.

Keep an eye on your wiring too.

I tried a pair of 100/80's in my interstate and they made the reflective highway signs so bright you couldn't even read them.  So, I dropped back to 60/55's and it is just like the baby bear's porridge.....just right! A great improvement over the stock 45/45''s.  I ride some river levee roads with no illumination save for moon/starlight  and  the high beams light up the road like searchlights  and seems like they reach up 50 feet on the roadside trees also....
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: October 04, 2011, 09:44:28 AM »

NAPA sells an off road 100/80W blub. I found it to be much brighter (duh) but isn't so bright that it bothers the cages when on low-beam. Haven't noticed any problems with it pulling too much current or causing enough heat that the lenses to haze over either.

you'll find that the OEM plug will eventually start to fail or actually fail due to heat from this bulb.  You can replace the factory plug with a ceramic one from NAPA (search for part number provided in a post from Kingbee).  Make sure to solder and shrinkwrap the splices and you'll never have to worry about failure of the plug.  This plug probably has gone up in price, but I remember it was around $7 a few year back.

Keep an eye on your wiring too.

I tried a pair of 100/80's in my interstate and they made the reflective highway signs so bright you couldn't even read them.  So, I dropped back to 60/55's and it is just like the baby bear's porridge.....just right! A great improvement over the stock 45/45''s.  I ride some river levee roads with no illumination save for moon/starlight  and  the high beams light up the road like searchlights  and seems like they reach up 50 feet on the roadside trees also....

those high wattage bulbs were only ever recommended for the standards and tourers...you did well by getting the lower wattage ones to avoid damage to your wiring.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Earl in Pensacola
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Posts: 556


« Reply #11 on: October 04, 2011, 04:52:11 PM »

I tried a 100/80 and had to remove it before it ruined my head light!!  It started to "cloud" or "smoke" the reflective part of the headlight!  I went back to the OEM rated bulb, but in a "whiter" Sylvania.
 
So far (6 months), no further clouding  or smoking of the reflective part.

By-the-way, I have always used the high beam for 100% of my daylight riding.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2011, 08:11:43 PM »

Another danger with using the much higher wattage bulb is the current passing through the start switch. The darn things will often fail with stock wattage, think what an 80/100 would do. And, it will fail at the most inopportune time so if you must go to the higher wattage, be sure to do the mod that takes the load off the start switch/button, along with a ceramic plug on the back and heavier wiring.
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VALK ME
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Posts: 1


« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2023, 12:59:53 PM »

Why are all the pictures usually gone from threads?  Thank you!
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16769


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2023, 01:33:18 PM »

Why are all the pictures usually gone from threads?  Thank you!

Facebook has a bunch of facilities with 10,000 racked computers in them
to store pictures on.

Over in the plush well-lit VRCC machine room there's only one cast-off
8080 PC running DOS, so the VRCC can't store our pictures, it is up
to us.

Picture hosting services come and go...

-Mike
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #15 on: September 07, 2023, 07:29:15 AM »

I played around with many headlight modifications over the last several years. Different types of LED conversions, halogens...the LED unit I highly recommend is one sold by Rivco. I bought it at the 2016 Cleveland IMS (which, thanks to Covid and the economy, is a thing of the past).

The best overall conversion was a swap to a Daymaker. I used Josh's (Darksider) adapter. While wandering the swap meet area at Vintage Motorcycle Days a couple years ago I found a set of black emitter Daymaker spots on a Road King light bar for the princely sum of $40. (The matching black beauty rings retail for almost that.) A quick eBay search while cooling our heels for lunch located a matching OEM headlight, and IIRC it was $90 shipped.

There's a thread I wrote up a couple years back detailing EMI suppression with this type of light. Simply put: They generate enough wideband hash that your CB radio's reception is rendered useless. In the thread, I showed modifications to the headlight which completely eliminated the noise.

Still working on reducing noise at the spots, but for now the bar-mounted On-Off switch eliminates that problem should I need the CB. My dual-band ham rig is unaffected by the radiated noise, as it tapers off in strength as you go higher in frequency.
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