I'M AN IDIOT!! HELP WITH BRAKE/CLUTCH LINES

[gordorad]

Ok, I ordered some speakers......the listing indicated handlebar mounts....nope, just these flimsy little brackets.......

To the idiot part....about the only place i could mount was to the brake line/clutch line.....after getting them on, I thought, o crap........Yep, no pressure in either clutch or front brake.   I'm hoping it is an easy fix to "bleed" the lines.......What do I need to do??

Thanks.


Gordo

[Chrisj CMA]

First....you mounted speakers to the hydraulic hose???????is that right........maybe the fix is removing them first.  Did you disconnect the hydraulic lines.  If not then you shouldnt need to bleed them. 

I think I have the wrong picture of what you are asking

[The Anvil]

I'm with Chris, I'm gonna need more info here.

[gordorad]

Not to the hose itself, but where it connects to the master cyclinders.  Was simply using the bolt that connects the hoses to the cyclinders!!

[tank_post142]

hahahahaha, Gordon you never cease to amaze me. take the mounts off !! are you looking to kill yourself? dont screw with brakes !! ever!! your lucky they screwed up now instead of a 100mph on the road.

[Patrick]

You connected the brackets to the banjo bolts ??  If so, take 'em off.. You'll have to bleed the brakes.. To do so, just pump the lever and hold, loosen bleeder screw, tighten bleeder screw.. Repeat until all air is out of the system.. Don't let the reservoir go dry or you'll have to start over..

[Ricky-D]

It's not that bad I think although I would not do it myself.

The banjo bolts are hollow and have a sealing washer or o'ring on both sides to keep from leaking.

If you've got them tight and they don't leak you ought to be able to take the caps off of the reservoirs and remove the bladder and floater to see thru to the bottom inside.

As long as there is fluid in the reservoir, you can gently squeeze the lever a little and see a bubble appear in the bottom orifice and then rise to the top of the fluid.  Keep doing this to get all the air out of the master cylinder. You will have the system return to normal then.

I would not suggest to bleed them at the caliper or the bleeder at the rear of the motor since you will have to get the air all the way thru the system and then bleed out which can be very frustrating.

Since there is such little vibration with the Valkyrie I don't suppose they would loosen up from that cause but you need to keep an eye on them for any leaks from where you attached them. Hopefully the speaker mounts are short to minimize the lever arm effect.

***

[gordorad]

Great advice guys...Thanks~!!

BTW, the system was a Shark System.....Not worth it...Very cheap...(what did I expect??)...When the amp is the same size and weight as a pack of smokes, you can't expect much......It sounded fine...ok i guess...not moving....But it was cheap.  The remote would barely work, and it was not going to work if the amp was mounted under the seat.

I'm hoping this trick will work....So, if I got it right, remove master cylinder top, squeeze the levers (and hope bubbles start??)  I will try!!

Thanks...

Gordo

[The Anvil]

It's not that bad I think although I would not do it myself.

It's bad. It's VERY bad. It's crucial that the hole in the bolt line up with the fluid passage in the banjo.

Unless you have a pressure injector you'll need to bleed them at the bleeders on the calipers and the one behind the motor. Even if you have a pressure injector it makes a big mess and I highly discourage that course. My suggestion is to head over to Sears and purchase a Mity-Vac brake bleeder. It makes bleeding a simple, one person task. Even bleeding dry lines is easy (if time consuming).

[lucky_1_chris]

It's not that bad I think although I would not do it myself.

The banjo bolts are hollow and have a sealing washer or o'ring on both sides to keep from leaking.

If you've got them tight and they don't leak you ought to be able to take the caps off of the reservoirs and remove the bladder and floater to see thru to the bottom inside.

As long as there is fluid in the reservoir, you can gently squeeze the lever a little and see a bubble appear in the bottom orifice and then rise to the top of the fluid.  Keep doing this to get all the air out of the master cylinder. You will have the system return to normal then.

I would not suggest to bleed them at the caliper or the bleeder at the rear of the motor since you will have to get the air all the way thru the system and then bleed out which can be very frustrating.

Since there is such little vibration with the Valkyrie I don't suppose they would loosen up from that cause but you need to keep an eye on them for any leaks from where you attached them. Hopefully the speaker mounts are short to minimize the lever arm effect.

***

Ok, I'll bite...

Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly, but are you saying that it's ok to leave the speaker mounts on the brake and clutch banjo bolts, and NOT bleed the system at the bleeders, but rather pull off the reservoir covers and pump the levers to get all the air out?

[The Anvil]

It's not that bad I think although I would not do it myself.

The banjo bolts are hollow and have a sealing washer or o'ring on both sides to keep from leaking.

If you've got them tight and they don't leak you ought to be able to take the caps off of the reservoirs and remove the bladder and floater to see thru to the bottom inside.

As long as there is fluid in the reservoir, you can gently squeeze the lever a little and see a bubble appear in the bottom orifice and then rise to the top of the fluid.  Keep doing this to get all the air out of the master cylinder. You will have the system return to normal then.

I would not suggest to bleed them at the caliper or the bleeder at the rear of the motor since you will have to get the air all the way thru the system and then bleed out which can be very frustrating.

Since there is such little vibration with the Valkyrie I don't suppose they would loosen up from that cause but you need to keep an eye on them for any leaks from where you attached them. Hopefully the speaker mounts are short to minimize the lever arm effect.

***

Ok, I'll bite...

Spit it out, SPIT IT OUT!!!

[The Anvil]

Great advice guys...Thanks~!!

BTW, the system was a Shark System.....Not worth it...Very cheap...(what did I expect??)...When the amp is the same size and weight as a pack of smokes, you can't expect much......It sounded fine...ok i guess...not moving....But it was cheap.  The remote would barely work, and it was not going to work if the amp was mounted under the seat.

I'm hoping this trick will work....So, if I got it right, remove master cylinder top, squeeze the levers (and hope bubbles start??)  I will try!!

Thanks...

Gordo

You won't see the bubbles in the reservoir. They'll come out of the bleeder screws but you need to attach some tygon tubing to them and drop the ends in a receptacle. Then you can force the air down the line with the lever and on the last pump you need to close the bleeder before releasing the lever or you might suck a little bit of air back in.

[The Anvil]

http://classicmotorcycles.about.com/od/serviceandrepair/a/How-To-Bleed-Motorcycle-Brakes.htm

[lucky_1_chris]

It's not that bad I think although I would not do it myself.

The banjo bolts are hollow and have a sealing washer or o'ring on both sides to keep from leaking.

If you've got them tight and they don't leak you ought to be able to take the caps off of the reservoirs and remove the bladder and floater to see thru to the bottom inside.

As long as there is fluid in the reservoir, you can gently squeeze the lever a little and see a bubble appear in the bottom orifice and then rise to the top of the fluid.  Keep doing this to get all the air out of the master cylinder. You will have the system return to normal then.

I would not suggest to bleed them at the caliper or the bleeder at the rear of the motor since you will have to get the air all the way thru the system and then bleed out which can be very frustrating.

Since there is such little vibration with the Valkyrie I don't suppose they would loosen up from that cause but you need to keep an eye on them for any leaks from where you attached them. Hopefully the speaker mounts are short to minimize the lever arm effect.

***

Ok, I'll bite...

Spit it out, SPIT IT OUT!!!

It's already been spatten.

[gordorad]

You guys Rock!!   Thanks so much for the tip(s).

I simply removed the reservoir caps, removed the bladders and as instructed, gently squeezed the levers to find small bubbles appearing the bottom of the orifice!!   

Both clutch and  front brake are back!!  Small disaster averted!!

Looking forward to the MO Ride tomorrow.

Now, if I can only find some decent sounding speakers!!  So far, MHI is out, Shark Stuff is out...Extreme Cycle Radio is out..(the owner refused to give me ANY tech specs on the amp/or speakers....claiming it was "proprietary"...)   Also no return policy.

Back to the earphones for now.

[Ricky-D]

Great advice guys...Thanks~!!

BTW, the system was a Shark System.....Not worth it...Very cheap...(what did I expect??)...When the amp is the same size and weight as a pack of smokes, you can't expect much......It sounded fine...ok i guess...not moving....But it was cheap.  The remote would barely work, and it was not going to work if the amp was mounted under the seat.

I'm hoping this trick will work....So, if I got it right, remove master cylinder top, squeeze the levers (and hope bubbles start??)  I will try!!

Thanks...

Gordo

Please notice that I said gently and most importantly squeeze the lever only a little.
If you squeeze the lever all the way you will have no success at all.
You are looking for the relief valve to open a little to let the bubble out since air will rise to the top.

It's important to see the bubble for the reason that when you see the bubble you will know what you then did (action/motion) and will be able to repeat the same to get more bubbles.

Now this whole thing is predicated on the premise that the only fluid that leaked out was at the banjo bolt and came from the master cylinder and the only air in the system is right there at the connection of the banjo bolt and the master cylinder.

Don't worry about the position of the bolt since the bolt itself is recessed around the whole area of the shank of the bolt and so there will be no clogging or blocking of any passages.

I am also assuming that you put the mount at the end of the bolt and not between the banjo and the master cylinder.  I'd not separate the banjo from the master cylinder.

If you have a leak at either of the areas you can get a compression washer for the banjo bolt at any motorcycle shop. Yours is the 10mm bolt.

***